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Left Wall

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 91

Climbing in this area is not permitted.

Seasonality

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Access issues inherited from Summerday Valley

While the whole of SDV is thought of as a LTO-only area, in reality LTO's are still only allowed to use small sections of wall: Back Wall, L side of Wall of Fools and Barc cliff (which is listed under Hollow Mt).

While there's at least 2 areas of Cultural Heritage (one minor quarrying site, and rock scatters that were discovered after the 2014 Bushfires); it is understood that SDV is a good example of Intangible Cultural Heritage. Traditional Owners feel that the place is special to them, and they do not want climbers there (except Tour Operators are ok, as they have signed a "Permit to Harm" document).

©

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Hard start then the crack. Scramble off.

Start: The R crack.

FA: Philip McMillan & Kevin Otten, 1980

Start: The middle crack.

  1. 30m (14) The crack, fragile rock at first.

  2. 20m (-) As for 'Hawks'.

FA: Stan Manley & Kevin Otten, 1979

For a relative unknown Stan Manley sure did nab a bunch of good lines, years before anyone else showed up here.

Start: Start at the left crack.

  1. 30m (17) Hard start, then crack to ledge.

  2. 20m (-) Upwards to large ledge and continue through the top overhang.

FA: Stan Manley & Kevin Otten, 1979

Apparently only 1m R of 'Jupiter', but 29m longer and 5 grades easier...

Start: Start 5m R of the R chimney.

FA: Kevin Otten & Sarah Miriams, 1981

Bouldery start.

Start: Start 2m R of A.

FA: Mark Marsden & John Brockey, 1985

Shallow corner then trend R.

Start: Start 2m R of the R chimney.

FA: Kevin Otten & Philip McMillan, 1985

Start: Start between the two chimneys.

  1. 25m (8) Add a few grades the further you start to the right. Up jugs just L of crack to ledge.

  2. 21m (8) Up to follow large crack.

FA: Ken & Marg Taylor, 1975

1 7
2 8
3 9 R
  1. 25m. Follows as for the start of “Any Day Now”; up to small scoop, ledge- belay here.

  2. 20m. Up main headwall to below top of wall.

  3. 15m. Step right across big chimney, up small wall tending right to summit. Very loose and fragile rock,

FA: Grant Baxter & Luke Baxter

Short crack then wall.

Start: Start 33m R of PoP, on R side of big slabby area, 3m L of the first chimney.

FA: Stan Manley & solo, 1979

Solid. Break to bulge and directly up.

Start: Start at the painted square beneath the big slabby area.

FA: Tony Veling + 2, 1985

Apparently this navigates similar territory as ZM, but at 16 grades less...

Start: Start 2m L of ZM.

FA: David Hetherington & Lyn McCoy, 1981

...is all Gordon wants to say to you.

Start: Start as for ZM.

FA: Philip McMillan & solo, 1981

Up the corner of ZM, then the line 1.5m L through the roof.

Start: Start as for ZM.

FA: Kevin Otten & solo, 1981

The description is reproduced verbatim because it doesn't match anything visible in the topo. Maybe it makes more sense when walking along the base...if you can be bothered.

Start: "Start from the large block below the orange slab capped by a roof."

FA: Philip McMillan + 2, 1981

Gross black chimney.

Start: The chimney just R of the 'Jug City' diagonal.

FA: Norm Johnston & Nigel Hurstfield, 1985

Straight up over the steeper bit.

Start: The start is initialled, just R of JC.

FA: Chris Hurstfield & Jim Moore, 1985

Up the groove then follow the diagonal up rightwards.

Start: Start below the L end of the diagonal which caps a smooth wall at the left end of 'Left Wall'.

FA: Philip McMillan solo, 1985

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Fri 28 Apr
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