Showing all 45 nodes.
Node |
---|
The Lost World
Great old school - new school crag of mixed and adventure climbing. Within the RNA, but outside of the SPA's. |
25
★★★ Orinoco Flow
Mind-blowing roof and arete. |
25
★★★ Orinoco Fill
Starts as per OF. Climb steep roof to large horizontal. Instead of climbing thin seam/arete move right onto streaked grey wall. |
17
★ A Day without Rain
Traverses the headwall to the R of OF. Excellent rock and climbing. Gear is adequate (take cams to size 3, incl micro cams).
|
23
★ Malcolm and Andy's New route
2m right of LBL,
|
24
★★ Little Boy Lost
The second pitch goes up through the sensational overhangs with some runouts and several no-hands rests.
|
26
★★ Eye's Wide Shut
Diabolical slab start followed by very continuous steep red wall. |
26
★★ A Space Odyssey Pitch 1
The gigantic roof just left of 'Little Boy Lost'.Looks like the prow of a battleship, as seen from the waterline.First pitch goes up to and second pitch underclings the upside-down roof arête. Pitches described separately. Black rounded arête immediately right of the chimney/gulch. You have to bridge up the gully to start, followed by awkward and off balance arete climbing. |
27
★★ A Space Odyssey PItch 2 Left Side
Super exposed upside-down roof-arête. |
27
★★ The Obelisk
Roof right of pitch 2 of 'A Space Odyssey'. |
21
★★ Humboldt
Start up pockets as for 'Cosmos', then traverse right along break.Up past BR and continue up line past another BR to rap station at roof (just to the right). |
22
★★ Cosmos
Left line up impressive orange wall, finishing through big roof. Trad with some bolts. |
16
★ Sorroson
Start as for round the twist. Climb upwards over bulges trending right to left end of roof. Traverse right on horizontals over lip of roof to short crack. Up to overlap and right to arete. Wrap off, bring tat. |
18
★ Round the Twist
Start to the left of the bulgy wall. Hand traverse rightwards along break to gain straight up crack. |
19
★★ Toucan
Rivals 'Roraima' as an instant classic.Takes the wall topped by a jutting triangular roof which underpins a hanging headwall.
|
22
★★ Toucan Direct
Direct version of the 2nd pitch. Straight up instead of right |
18
★★★ Roraima
Obvious crack splitting the orange tower.Straight up all the stepped overhangs. |
19
★ Roraima Rob's Variant
Rightward horizontal break |
21
★★ Casiquiare
Great climbing up a corner followed by a series of overhangs.Start down left of 'Roraima' and climb initial wall on pockets, trending right into the line.Straight up line all the way. |
22
★ Amazonia
Wall right of Eau Rouge with a traverse in from the right to avoid the blank wall. Trad with some bolts |
23
★★★ Eau Rouge
Flake and steep orange wall right of Redline. 3 FHs and full rack required. Rap chain. Can get down with a 60m rope |
28
★★★ Red LIne
Steep hanging corner in prow on flawless red stone. Drop the clutch! 3 bolts then trad. |
25
★ Pterodactyl
One piece of trad to start then 3 bolts. Bouldery on awesome rock. |
25
★ Iguanadon
Same start as Pterodactyl (trad) then head left and up past 4 bolts to same anchor. |
23
★★ Lost in Antiquity
Start as for The Land that Time Forgot.
|
26
★★ The Land That Time Forgot
Follows stellar arete which starts down and left of redline. 2 bolts and trad on both pitches. |
25
★★ The Land That Time Forgot Pitch 2
2 bolts and trad. |
25
★ Jurassic Adventure
Desperate laybacking. 4 bolt sport route with lower off in gully around left of Redline. |
25
★ Mesozoic Stoic
Adds a harder, more engaging finish to Pacaraima. Where the original climbs heads back leftward, head up right instead (past 2 more bolt runners). Rap chains where the angle and the climbing ease significantly. |
21
Pacaraima
At the major gully that is encountered a few metres down left of the start of The Land that Time Forgot, head downhill to a steep east-facing wall. About 30-35m downhill is the start of a rightward-leading diagonal line. Climb up a few metres to a bolt runner, then carefully up rightward (trad gear) following the line to a major break that slices diagonally across the wall from low right to high left. Follow the break up leftward for approximately 4 or 5m and easily for a few more metres up the slabby stuff above. Trad belay. Scramble off up left. |
25
★★ The Valley of Fear
The next route in the gully. Difficult moves up and right to gain corner. Continue technically up corner to small overlap where you move on to arete. Head up this and left to anchors. 2 Fixed hangers and 3 rings. |
★★ My Friend the Murderer Project - Closed
CLOSED PROJECT - Adam Demmert - Next route left up the Gully. Rightward diagonal seam. |
30
Watermark
An impressive effort – Malcolm, as is his want, made sure each piece of gear (except the fixed piton) was placed on lead. A few metres down left of the start of The Land that Time Forgot, there is a major gully. Follow the right side of this gully uphill, initially past a couple of sports routes (Valley of Fear and Jurassic Adventures) and onward about another 50m to a striking diagonal overhanging crack/seam. Follow the relentlessly overhanging pocketed seam; trad gear with one fixed pin to a double bolt anchor. |
14
The Mind Tinker
It is thought that this route takes the big easy line up the lower tier and crosses the upper terrace to the yellow corner, probably neasr "Humboldt". Looks worthless. In the middle of the cliff right of "The Go-Between" an easy-angled grey corner is the only break in the initial overhangs. Above is an impressive yellow corner.
|
19
★★ Raiders of the Lost Ark
Quite a moderate route for such an enormous buttress, with only a few hard moves and plenty of gear. Take plenty of nuts and slings; but leave your micro and large cams behind!
|
22
★ Indiana Jones
Quite a bit of excitement. Takes the big orange wall right of " The Go-Between". Start a few metres right of that climb.
|
23
★★ Temple of Doom
Takes the major black streak up the headwall left of Indiana Jones, with a very thin crux amongst some amazing moderate climbing on great rock. Straight up wall left of IJ to follow left leading diagonal line to it's end. Up overhanging wall to grey slab where the holds (and gear) appear to run out. Thin moves (and small wires) lead to relief at the overlap. If you survived the prehistoric birds, jug it out over final roof and up to belay. |
19
Velociraptor
Takes the left hand of two water streaks up toward the top left of the Go-Between wall. Starts about 20-25m up The Go-Between, immediately below the left hand of the two prominent water streaks. Climb the water streak to the little roofline and the jugs beyond to the top. |
7
The Go-Between
Start: Start below the right of three large chimney-cracks angling sharply to the left.
|
24
★ The Last Crusade
Steep cracky goodness. Hand to finger. Way over left on a separate wall. |
25
★ One Small Step for a Space Cadet
Down on the lower level again, this is the orange wall you see walking towards this area. Follow orange scoops up wall. Tricky start leads to sneaky moves left at 3rd bolt to gain next leadge/scoops. follow these to bust out on the thin face to finish. |
★★★ Malcolm's Crack
Bring your arms and your technique. 40 degrees overhanging and sick. |
Closed Project - James Scott Bohannan
Closed Project Please Stay off. |
24
★ A Fortunate Life
Further along the cliff past the obvious cave with a crack in it. A powerful start past 2 bolts leads to very fun jugging rightward past some good gear, head up when you can past more gear to then head back leftwards on a rising traverse past 2 more bolts, with a tricky finish. |
Malcolm
Access is currently restricted to most (if not all) crags in the Eureka area, although survey's have been requested at a number of crags. NB: While this part of the Vic Range hosts some of the most valuable art and cultural sites in Gariwerd, it should be noted that the climbing community is not aware of any specific CH at the listed crags (except for Yanganaginj). Also of note is although all the climbing areas are within the RNA (Remote and Natural Area), only some crags are within Cultural SPA's, or SPA's with Natural Values (NV-SPA's). These have been noted on individual crags. |
Showing all 45 nodes.