Nodes in Musbury Crags

NOTE: Detail taken from VCC online update 2001.

Towards the top of the descent gully at the left end of the cliff is an easy corner. A tricky layback with just sufficient protection. Climb the slabby wall then the seam just left of this. (Take a 5RP for use at half height).

About 20m left of Face Dancers, half way up the descent track is a rib sticking out from the crag. It forms a corner with an orange wall, with an oval boulder on top. Up face 2m left of corner, past a small flake and onto the “Breadknife”. Up until it joins the corner, step onto the right face, and bridge up.

Something for everyone. Climb the major yellow corner 8m down right of Space Cadets. Finish up the left arête then the groove. Pass three bolts en route.

The corner about 10-15m left of Face Dancers.

Starts on the left side of the left but- tress at a large tree. Up the wall to a ledge and over an “overlap” to some flakes which lead diagonally up left. Up the wall just right of the arête.

Starts about 12m right of Face Danc- ers just left of Cosy Corner. Gain the flake just left of the corner and follow it for 5m, move right and up the wall to the arête which is followed to the top.

The prominent corner between Sliding Dog Sandwich and the descent gully.

Climb the last crack (going right at 7m) before the boulder on the north side of the descent gully.

This climb follows the obvious stepped corner that starts 5m right of the de- scent gully. At the arête easy climbing leads to a small tree.

This must be some new meaning of the phrase “superdirect” that I am not familiar with. The shallow groove above the mid-point of the diagonal traverse. A direct start would make for an independent climb.

We all make mistakes. The arête and crack just right of White Crow. Finish on the first ledge and wonder why you bothered.

Starts about the middle of the right hand buttress at a widish crack. This is followed to a good ledge. Move left and up the arête (as led) or just right of it (as seconded, grade 16).

Short but committing layback. Scramble up to ledge with tree on the right side of the right hand buttress. Climb the distinctive thin right leaning flake above.