Routes as trad in Victoria Range

Start in same groove as "Decapitating Tweety Birds" and at the break continue directly up the wall.

The obvious easy-angled arete at the top of the gully.

West side of entrance to the 'Slow Torture' 'Gully' which is 50m west of 'Wrapped in Pain'. Worthwhile despite the name. Rounded arête with short crack at start. Bulgy and committing finish with last trad below your feet.

Similar climbing to 'Arrows of Desire' but steeper and on even better holds. Start just R of the Ballad of Idwal 'Slabs', 4m L of the little corner. 1) 16m Climb the slab to a ledge. 2) 36m Climb the wall directly above to finish up twin cracks.

Quite exposed on the traverse. 1) 35m Climb the scooped line R of Chariots of Fire into the corner above. Go up the corner to the R end of the slabby ledge and up the corner above. When just below the roof step R to a ledge. 2) 25m Pull over the overhang above the belay and traverse back L (watch rope-drag) on the lip into the L-leaning arch, which is followed in a dramatic position until the line heads up the steep wall above on surprising holds. 2a) 30m, grade 15**. traverse 4m left from belay, head up through the juggy break in small roof(!) in to the original line. Well protected.

Left hand start to minimal tech.

A superb crack-line.

Start: Start at the diagonal crack initialled SC.

1. 25m (12) The crack to a ledge.

2. 35m (12) Continue up the diagonal line.

A thin direct finish to 'Raver Girl'. Climb past first FH to horizontals. Arrange pro (medium SLCD's) and head rightwards on thin crimpers past FH to good holds. Up juggy wall past 3rd FH to top. Walk off descent.

Follow the flake to its top, then up.

Start: Start on the left wall of the gully, just right of the left arete.

The grey, mossy wall around the arete at the left end of the main wall.

An easy climb was done right of DTB in 1990 by Peter Allen and Kieran Sell. This may be the same climb. Start 3 metres right of Decapitating Tweety Birds. Up initial crack for 3 metres (use the tree or it's grade 16) then diagonally right to and up crack in upper wall.

Diagonall left up the left-hand crack at the left end of the main wall to a ledge. Step right and finish up the steep wall. Crawling through the hole is cheating!

Up line, step right to dodge gumtree (probably not any longer), then up.

Start: Start at juggy line 3 metres left of "Pangur Ban" on north-facing wall. This used to be 2 metres right of a large gumtree, but that has now fallen over and lies across the base of the climb.

Spectacular with outrageous situations, and best done in one pitch. Equipped with a mix of rings and FHs, supplement with a full rack of cams.

Starts a few metres left of IHTR. Can also start up RR.

Pull onto shelf and traverse left to blocks. Up to stance below hanging jug (often sandy). Into shallow hanging corner, then continue up and right to overhang and a rest (original route belayed here). Make an exposed traverse leftwards, going straight up at incut jug to finish at lower-offs (27m to the ground).

Enjoyable as long as you don't fall off.

Start: Start a metre or so right of "Twentieth 'Century' Black Feral Cat".

1. 20m (16) Head diagonally right to the ledge and bushes halfway up the right arete of the wall

2. 20m (8) Up the arete, as for "Black Feral cat, An Undeniable Truth".

The grey wall 2 metres right of Lethargic Liver. Pull past tiny overlap and up slabby wall above.

Easy juggy face on wall opposite I Just Called etc. Start on the right side just left of the arete. Rock is fragile and protection is a little sparse. This is the easiest way to the summit.

Impressive roof climb in a truly spectacular setting.

Start from back of block (FH) at end of pinnacle.

Up corner to ledge. Step R then up bulges to rest. Step up to FH then monkey R on unexpected buckets. Turn the roof at scoop. Swing R to finish up white water wash then slightly L to RB lower off (note: near 50m lower off to top of pinnacle - tie rope end to belay FH).

Meaty. In the centre of the wall is an appealing Arapilisean flake crack. Follow this to where it almost joins the shallow corner on the left. Continue right and up to terrace. Be careful of hollow flake in the middle.

As for the 22, but Traverse R across break and up to 2nd BR. Quite runout getting to the 2nd bolt, but moves are not hard.

Now retroed with 3 bolts and a rap anchor. It's best not to lower off the anchor because it's over the top and will probably trash your rope. Abseil or back jump.

Start: Start about 50m L of where you scramble up from the Main Cave.

The spectacular right arete.

Potentially a 'Grampians' classic taking the huge, right-facing sickle in the middle of the cliff.

1. 50m (19) Climb the corner, occasionally on the right wall, to the roof. Now traverse right.

2. 15m (-) Go up to the next roof and traverse left.

3. 50m (-) Jugs.

Arete on left side of wall, capped by big block.

Ungradeable. Squeeze into slot under 'Super Mario Bros' (50m right of Popeyed). Squirm your way through to the other side of 'The Tower' heading for the light. Finish in the bouldering cave.

The machine gun is beautiful. An excellent start leads to a finish where the crux seems to be avoiding the neighbouring routes.

The leftmost route on the wall starts from the ledge above the waterfall with a powerful undercut start. Climb past five FHs to reach the dyke, then head diagonally leftwards (ie climb above the dyke, but don't get drawn to the bolt above - that is for 'The Gloaming') past a couple of small cam placements to the anchor.

An alternative finish is to head straight up from the dyke (past a 0.4 camalot placement) to join the last 2 FH of 'The Gloaming'.

Left line up impressive orange wall, finishing through big roof. Trad with some bolts.

Start: At the nose at left end of left wall of grotto, where the descent track meets the wall. Committing moves up thin crack, move right and up overhang for five metres, veer left with easier climbing to the top. Continuing straight up makes for a more sustained finish.

Starts 4 metres left of Oh Hum at overhung black off-width. Layback up wide crack which quickly turns into hand-crack. Five metres from the ground step left from crack onto gorgeous orange bulgy wall. Long moves on jugs lead to FH. Over bulge to second FH. Tenuous layaway moves up orange wall above (optional hard-to-place wire) lead to easier ground. Head slightly left up wall above to finish at DRB lower-off. Take a single set of trad gear to fist-crack size.

Quite thin climbing up a steely-grey "slab". Take lots of small wires. Thin seam up grey face right of chimney-cleft.

Up, step left at break and up centre of arete.

Start: Start at crack 5.5 metres left of

Surprisingly good for a wide crack. Climb the major corner on the right side of the recessed wall.

A fine route in an exposed, atmospheric setting on the left edge of the Passport recess.

Start at the square-cut chimney left of 'Mutiny', where a huge block has come away from the wall, 10 metres right of Saxon.

1. 45m (13) Bridge up the chimney and arete. Near the top, move onto the left wall and follow a diagonal line up left to a prominent vertical line. Go up to a small stance.

2. 10m (-) Up to next ledge.

3. 45m (13) When the line runs out, climb the bulge and continue straight up the wall to a prominent notch on the skyline.

Good first pitch.

Start: Start at short chimney with rotten chockstone right of the smooth wall. 2nd Pitch ascends a difficult R leading diagonal line visible just R of prow.

1. 25m (19) Up onto rotten chockstone and take left-hand line to terrace.

2. 25m (19) Move up right and climb diagonal crack-line.

Line 2m left of 'Picking Plums'. Similar sustained climbing up rounded cracks, but the rock is a little less perfect. Bring plenty of big cams. Traverse off right to chain or belay from natural bollards at top.

Climbs much better than it looks, a great overlooked route for those who's brain starts to fade after clipping too many bolts. Starts a few m right of Plat Du Jour at bouldery overhang. Straight up this and wall (small wires) to arete and hollow flake. Make a move R, and up short corner to amazing diagonal line (wires / small-med cams). Along this to finish at the anchor of Phil's project.

Some reachy moves on lovely compact rock. As for 'Invalid Stout' to first BR, then step L and up rounded slopers past another three BRs. There’s also medium to large cam placements. Belay from large rock bollards on summit.

Up flake crack right of A Burnt Out Case, up past bolt and slightly left.

More reachy climbing on good rock in next small gully 10m E of 'Invalid Stout'. Climb steep fingery wall (3 RBs) to face and corner (small/med cams and wires).

Scramble up chimney around right arete till you can reach around to clip 1st bolt. Follow undercling/corner past 2 more bolts,until it ends. Reach right and then head straight up on gear.

Orange corner on opposite side of gully to 'Revenue Road'.

Starts 3m left of 'Maggot Ridden'. Technical face and seam climbing with spaced small trad gear. Great rock.

The original route on the cliff."Hal Todd would be proud of this. The Del Monte of climbing." (Edited version of original description)

Start: At the line that splits the wall.

Climb crack, at the overhang, traverse right and finish up the right hand crack. Some loose rock. Take twin ropes or long slings, could be done in 2 pitches, with a belay at the end of the traverse.

Superb rock. Start 5m right of 'Woodys'. 'Flake' crack leads to horizontal break. Seemingly blank and baffling wall (BR) to rounded juggy finish (BR).

The left side of War Wall is comprised of grey and orange "bums. Start on the left side of a flake. Originally climbed in two pitches. Climb onto ledge and make balancy moves past bolt to jugs. At the ledge, move right and climb the steep, well-protected wall.

Beaut moves in an excellent position on good rock. Takes the sweeping arête / pillar in centre of wall, finishing at double rings. 3 BR's.

Obvious R leading jam crack.

Good traverse leads to great final crack.

Start: Start under the huge block that leans against the left edge of the wall, 15-20 metres right of

1. 10m (9) Climb up through a hole to the top of the block and then up to terrace.

2. 15m (19) Traverse right along the brek to the vertical line and up a couple of moves to a hanging belay.

3. 10m (20) Crack to top.

Takes SFON past 3 bolts. Then direct up trad weakness.

The right-hand of twin lines left of "Fox Trot".

Pretty exciting stuff. Traverse left past 3 FH on flake, then pull over onto slab. Rap off slings. A worthwhile extended finish has been done by continuing up and L into 2nd runnel, finishing about 5m higher. Start: Start as for "Crazy Like A Fox"

This one goes all the way. Climb the middle of the wall, pretty much following the black streak.

Classic bumbly route in great position. The approach just adds to the adventure.

It takes the massive whaleback ridge that is almost equidistant between "Gondwanaland" and "Red Sail" and can be approached from either.

A classic at the grade.

The centre of the face left of Wimp's Picnic

Thrilling pitch at head of descent gully.

Climb the left edge of the slab to a tree. Bridge short corner behind tree to ledge. Hand-traverse right to the undercut arete which is followed to the top.

Start at ramp 8 metres right of Slug. Gain the right-leading flake by a traverse left from the easy ramp. Up the line and exit vertically to the belay ledge.

The right-hand crack 8 metres right of Traitor's Gate.

Nice short, bouldery problem up slanting corner, 8m right of Traitor's Gate, to juggy beak hold. Use double bolt lower off above In Too Deep Project.

One for the peak baggers. The easiest route on the southern pinnacle. Scramble up the S face to a ledge on the SW arete. Traverse right above red overhang with poor pro then climb directly to the top on juggy grey rock.

Neil had this cleaned and bolted before anyone else got out of bed. A slightly easier trad finish to Blunted Enthusiasm. After the second UB take the left line (RB) to thin crack. Finish up well protected wall about 2m left of Blunted Enthusiasm. Rap from anchor on ledge above Split Decision.

A big adventure route with a poorly-protected crux pitch. The sheer effort required to for the three trips to make the free ascent demands respect.

Start: Towards the right-hand end of the northern-most crag is a wide corner system with an impressive left wall in the upper part. Start about 15 metres left of the corner itself, where the cliff is at its lowest.

1. 40m (16) Up to the right of the overhangs at 10 metres. Move left through a slot between overhangs, go up over another bulge to better rock and up the rounded arete to a large ledge. The variant start is better.

2. 25m (-) Either straight up the left-facing corner to the roof and swing right, or up the outside of the pillar and move left to the right-facing corner. climb the corner to a ledge on the left.

3. 40m (18) Poor protection. Up the thin crack for 6 metres, traverse right and climb a short, delicate wall to a bottomless, right-facing corner. Up this corner and then diagonally right into the V-corner leading to the right.

4. 25m (-) Climb up to the first overhang. Crawl left (loose block), go up to the second overhang and up it (may be an old cam in place) and into a right-facing corner.

5. 15m (-) Up.

A sustained face, neglected for several months after bolting.

Start: The 4m direct start to the ledge has been done but awaits a bolt. In the meantime, start 4m further left beneath 'The Thin Red Line', where a good wire protects the moves to the ledge.

Move 4m R on ledge, then climb the face 3m L of the thin crack (Edge Burner), past 3FH, med-large wires and a #1.75Fr. The high DRB anchor can be accessed from above.

A pumpy rising traverse on gritty rock with a nails hard start. Starts 5m right of 'Over And Out' at right edge of undercut grey wall. Boulder past FH to gain horizontals. 'Monkey' leftwards across these (medium SLCD's) to a flake forming an arête. Up this arete (FH) to finish. Walk off descent.

Funky 3D climbing is both unnerving and exciting. Thin crack/seam at edge of chimney cleft, 3 metres left of Tortology until it meets the cleft. Heave around right and up.

Start 15m R of 'Ancient Times'. 1) 30m Follow the delightful arête. 2) 30m Climb the flake to the roof, L (brittle) into gully and up.

Start: Start in broken corner-cum-gully 90 metres right of where the track hits the cliff. This is directly below the step in the huge roofs high up and a forked gumtree 40 metres up.

1. 44m (7) Climb the corner to the large. vegetated ledge.

2. 28m (7) Climb the small buttress, tending right to a large chimney.

3. 44m (7) Move up and traverse right into the chimney. Continue up the line to a belay above some bushes.

4. 46m (7) Up the line to belay amongst the jugs.

5. 6m (-) Scramble up to the terrace. Walk to the juggy arete on the left.

6. 42m (7) Climb the arete, move right, along the ledge and up the weakness to the top.

Reachy moves up unlikely, pocketed face. Short people might want to add a grade or so.

Start: Start at right-leading ramp.

Lovely clean line 1.5m L of More Energy.

Not to be confused with the route of the same name at Muline. Take the right-hand chimney then up the orange corner above to pull through the "eye" (a gap in the small roof).

Possibly Nick's finest new route? A long intricate and technical wall with an exposed finish. Start at the base of ramp a little left of Gibber. Stem shallow corner to BR and pockets. Up past 2nd BR and more pockets to horizontal line. Right leading flake passed 3 FH's gains face just left of arête. Up superb face with small wires and cams before arête can be gained. Finish up arête.

A frustrating crux. The prominent middle crack-line on the orange wall. Stepped corner-crack to ledge. Step right and up line to a slippery crack (awkward to clip FH on left). After difficulties step left and up steep wall.

Long gentle wall left of 'Womble'. First move off the ground is the crux. John Taylor and Mark Sewell did an un-recorded climb in this vicinity during Easter 1978. Start in the gap between the North & South Pinnacles. Pull onto the wall then follow intermittent seams up the grey wall, trending gradually rightwards. If the first move is problematic, you can bridge between the two pinnacles.

Backs off a little on arete, but keeps you working till the end.

Start 8m right of Curiosity Killed The Black Feral Cat on the black streak.

Up to 2nd FH taking heed of the flexible block on the left. Head left then back right above 2nd FH to gain a rest in the grey corner. Swing around right of the arête to FH and up to the long blunt grey arête above. Climbing is often just left of the arête with adequate gear on the arête proper.

Stunning route up the middle of the wall; one of the best crack-vertical-slab combinations around. Hard technical crux after first bolt and a second (hard to protect) crux up high after the last bolt.

It has been queried if this climb is actually possible; this is from Mike Law: "I got pulled /tensioned/short-roped off last moves when belayer collapsed with heatstroke, finished right instead I think. Crux is the steep wall above the crack - pretty Foxy 25+"

It goes free at 26, climbing straight up after last bolt. 4 BR and run-out trad.

Continue under the overhanging wall to a broken-down gully. On the right wall of the gully is a small orange corner capped by a small roof, Leo.

This is probably more worthwhile as a boulder problem than a climb. Take a couple of mats, boulder to the jugs then jump off. You might even be able to sit-start it.

slab up black streak past a carrot to crack.

Left leaning overhung crackline about 5m right of 'Super Mario Bros'. Neil took a groundfall attempting the first ascent ground up. Two very hard cruxes on polished perfect rock. A trad classic for those with the skills. Chain lower off.

Left off Ledge and up via overlap to BR. Past this via a very thin move and up wall on great pockets.

A good, sustained climb.

Start: Start at thin crack just right of the arete left of "Irish IUD"

1. 20m (19) Up the thin crack until able to move left to a flake-line on the arete. When the flake ends, traverse left to the base of a crack in the centre of the wall and a tiny stance.

2. 35m (20) Up the crack with some hard moves when it thins down and leads diagonally left. Either top out and walk off or use RCB rap station (28m to ground).

Delightful left facing finger crack that ends prematurely on slab, then veer left to finish up vegetated rubbish onto ledge.

Classy crack climbing, pretty solid at the grade. Up obvious line in the middle of the wall above the creek.

One of the better climbs hereabouts, although that's not saying much.

Start: Start 20 metres left of "Picanniny" at diagonal cracks on a steep wall.

Climb a short vertical crack 3 metres left of the foot of the diagonals to the first diagonal crack. Follow this diagonal until steep face-climbing leads up right to the base of the second diagonal crack. Finish steeply up this crack.

Up, step left at ledge and up right face of the arete.

Start: Start at crack 2 metres left of "Lion Tamer"

Sustained climbing up the middle of the inspiring wall above the "Catwalk" traverse; although the abundance of lichen detracts from what is otherwise excellent rock.

Start 5 metres right of the third pitch corner of "John The Baptist". Most easily reached by scrambling 60m up Twin Chimneys and traversing in.

NB: There's numerous ways you could climb this wall; but it's best to trend R across mossy wall aiming for short orange crack/flake, then over that to the belay. 2nd Pitch straight up, trending slightly L. Leave large cams behind, and bring lots of nuts.

1. 35m (17) Climb the wall, veering a few metres right at 30 metres to a stance.

2. 45m (17) Veer up slightly right, then straight up to finish directly and steeply to the First Terrace.

Later repeated by Bede Harrington and renamed The Eye Of The Storm Climb the line just left of the right arete, moving onto the arete when the crack runs out.

Start: Start a 12 metres left of "The Tower Of Babel" below a shallow corner.

1. 43m (9) Scramble up to the shallow corner and follow it to a vegetated ledge.

2. 28m (9) Move up the sloping ledge to a narrow chimney. Go up the chimney to a cliff-towing belay.

3. 34m (9) Up, then step left into the wide chimney. Climb the chimney to belay next to a long, narrow ledge on the left.

4. 46m (9) Step right into the next line and continue to the terrace.

5. 40m (9) Climb the juggy arete then move right along the ledge and up the weakness to the top.

Classy face climbing.

Supposed to be very good

Start: Towards the L end of the main wall is a steep right leaning diagonal crack-line leading up to a prominent hanging buttress, right of a major corner capped by a large roof.

1. 20m (19) 1) 20m (crux) Climb a steep R-leaning diagonal crack, then swing around the arête and up to belay stance on sloping ledge.

2. 30m (17) Climb straight up the line to the hanging buttress and up the corner on its right side (mind loose rock)

3. 10m (19) Step left from belay and up bouldery wall to top (poor pro)

Lovely line on beautiful rock.

Start as for No Head For Heights and follow the thin line to the left edge of the roof. Swing left and finish up the steep crack.

Start just left of 'Moments Of Doubt'. Follow the line up and left to the arete and easy ground. Watch out for loose blocks. Repeated by Campbell Mercer and renamed Storm Rising.

Tiring. On the left wall of the gully. Steeply up to BR, a few fingery moves, step left and then up.

A full value pitch.

Zig-zag crack 3 metres left of Not Waving But Drowning until it ends. Move right to an incipient corner. Up this then traverse left a fair distance to a vertical crack which takes you straight to the top via the centre of the summit block.