Routes as trad in Victoria Range

Start: Start a 12 metres left of "The Tower Of Babel" below a shallow corner.

1. 43m (9) Scramble up to the shallow corner and follow it to a vegetated ledge.

2. 28m (9) Move up the sloping ledge to a narrow chimney. Go up the chimney to a cliff-towing belay.

3. 34m (9) Up, then step left into the wide chimney. Climb the chimney to belay next to a long, narrow ledge on the left.

4. 46m (9) Step right into the next line and continue to the terrace.

5. 40m (9) Climb the juggy arete then move right along the ledge and up the weakness to the top.

Classy face climbing.

Lovely line on beautiful rock.

Start as for No Head For Heights and follow the thin line to the left edge of the roof. Swing left and finish up the steep crack.

Start just left of 'Moments Of Doubt'. Follow the line up and left to the arete and easy ground. Watch out for loose blocks. Repeated by Campbell Mercer and renamed Storm Rising.

Tiring. On the left wall of the gully. Steeply up to BR, a few fingery moves, step left and then up.

A full value pitch.

Zig-zag crack 3 metres left of Not Waving But Drowning until it ends. Move right to an incipient corner. Up this then traverse left a fair distance to a vertical crack which takes you straight to the top via the centre of the summit block.

Despite the crux being very run-out, James is reported to have declared this 'the best new route we have ever done'.

Start: Start as for 'Bowled Out'.

A fun experience on an easy arete high on the hillside.

1. 40m (11) Start at the very toe of the slab. The start is tricky then things ease to a large terrace.

2. 46m (8) From the terrace continue up the left arete of the corner until just below the bulge that runs across the face.

3. 30m (11) Climb the bulge via a crack on the left then step back right to the arete and continue to the top.

The major corner line through the centre of the wall offers a fine adventure. Mossy and loose. Has been led in two pitches.

1. 30m (18) Climb the corner to the first roof.

2. 10m (19) Go right under the first roof and belay just above. The footholds on this pitch are very mossy!

3. 20m (20) Jam underneath the next roof (crux) and up the corner to a brilliant belay beneath the third roof.

4. 10m (17) Continue up and traverse under the next roof.

5. 30m (10) Climb the stegosaurus wall to the Operating Theatre.

Peter Mills and Nic Kiraly raved about this route for almost 2 weeks after repeating it. The words "Awesome", "stunning" and "mindblowing" could be heard repeatedly for the entire night after this ascent. God knows what Steve & Keith's friends had to endure! Needless to say it is sensational and a must do for solid grade 23 leaders, and can be done in one mega-pitch).

1. 30m Start up the obvious R facing corner in the very centre of the wall (crux), then climb diagonally L up the wall to the start of the arête. Up steeply to stance on L.

2. 30m, 21. Straight up arête, trending R, then finishing back L at the top.

There is an orange seam on the right side of the wall. Up this and hand traverse right on the orange wall over the roof.

Further along the cliff past the obvious cave with a crack in it. A powerful start past 2 bolts leads to very fun jugging rightward past some good gear, head up when you can past more gear to then head back leftwards on a rising traverse past 2 more bolts, with a tricky finish.

Follow prominent sharp arete that is 10m to the west of Mailorder Bribe. Some loose blocks and fragile rock, but otherwise a nice line. Can be done in one long pitch or split into two pitches.

Climb directly up the wall, to the left end of the small ledge at half height. Follow the short corner/flake and exciting wall above.

Start: Starts approx. 2 to 3m right of bolt on 'Controlled Burn' and 4m left of the right arête.

Will clean up with traffic.

Starts on the ledge at FH 2m left of 'Controlled Burn'.

Up to shallow corner to rap anchor.

Starts on the slab just right of the grassy corner. 5 bolts and gear in the horizontals. Suggested rack: green C3 to red camalot with one long draw. Thought provoking, varied climbing.

Best route at the crag.

Start: Start as for May Day. At May Day's traverse left continue straight up corner and start of head wall past three BR's to break, #3 camalot, then continue past one more BR (hard clip) to run it out to the top (possible wires).

Scoops to flake crack then onwards to inverted ceiling. Place vital small cam in slot and swing downwards on horn jug (FH) and over lip to juggy face. Up this face (two FH¹s and sling horns) to clip-and-go lower-off.

Start: Start 20m left of "Slow Torture".

"The simplest explanation or strategy tends to be the best one" This is a direct of the arête of Pythagoras' Theorem and was climbed as one long pitch. Start as for PT first pitch, at ledge clip first bolt and climb face between arête and corner. When level with first bolt move on to arête proper and follow this all the way to the top alcove. There is a tricky crux just before you join PT on the arête. 5 carrot bolts and trad.

Starts 3m right of 'Red Ragging' on south face of southern pinnacle. Up and left on orange rock with no gear to left leading small crack through bulge at 5m. Stem through bulge and swing out left to meet up with 'Red Ragging'. Follow it for a few metres then head diagonally right aiming for the prominent left leaning orange corner. Up corner using jugs on big hollow sounding block to finish with bouldery left traverse to ledge.

Start at first bolt of closed project, then follow undercling traverse to arête then up and left in crack to lower off of Plat Du Jour

Subtle arête on R side of entrance to first gully. Easy crack for 5m to high BR. Step R and layback tenuous crack to break (crux). Through difficult bulge and up. U bolt lower off.

So named because the FA had to get water by swimming out into a billabong and got mighty muddy! Palmistry at its best. Blank corner and right facing layback flake opposite main section of Peasant Wall. Stem up to short crack opening (#1 SLCD) then boldly up with nigh all handholds to FH. Lunge out rightwards with nigh all footholds to thank-god layback flake. Up this easily to ledge and lower-off anchor.

Crack then orange bulging face. 2 FHs and lower- off.

Two pitches of outragous steep and interesting climbing, with a very thin and reachy crux pitch. One of the last major walls in the 'Grampians' to be climbed? Originally equipped by Jono Schmidt and Neil mid 2007, it took five months before Neil could convince anyone else to go in to try it! This route could be led in one giant pitch, but you would need more than 25 quickdraws and a double sized rack. The climb stays mostly dry even in torrential rain - as tested on the first ascent!

Start: Starts on the far left of the Crimson Tower, on sloping rock platforms. Bring a large cam to belay from.

1. 30m (25) Step right (FH) and across crimpy slab and into shallow corner. Up this on small wires/cams to rooflet and juggy grey wall. Up reachy flake to big heuco, then crux crimpy face above to belay in large horizontal slot. For the hanging belay anchors use RB above, and medium cams to the left. Six bolts in total on this pitch.

2. 30m (24) Stunning location. Out roof and up exposed headwall past 4 ringbolts to base of left facing corner. Up this on trad then step right, to final difficult grey wall. Rap off with DOUBLE 60m ropes. 50m ropes will NOT reach the ground.

Start: Start at the base of 'Leaner'

1. 30m (22) Follow the traverse line left to the arete. Up the arete past a bolt (hard to clip) to ledge and bolts. The original poor bolts have been replaced.

2. 20m (22) Move right into "Leaner" and go up 2 metres. Now go out right onto the overhung arete, passing a fixed wire, or not, as the case may be.

The big girdle traverse of the left leading horizontal crack feature which splits the main wall. Start at ground level right of Toar

and finish at chains on Iron Arms. Bring lots of cams, slings and body protection.

Big time cave climbing up right side of the orange wave.

Scramble in from the left side onto belay ledge 15m from the ground. Belay off single FH.

Head up and right easily for 8m to small ledge and UB. Take a breath and start climbing up and out past eight bolts in incredible positions to finish in small cave. Hard moves are at third and sixth bolts. Good foot jams, knee bars and leg slots can be found for recovery all the way up. Use a 60m rope for lower-off and tie a knot in the end!

Start as for The Land that Time Forgot.

1. 20m (23) As for TLTTF up to and powerfully over flake, then head up and right to obvious corner and over roof to belay at chains.

2. 20m (21) Head straight up the wall on fantastic rock with good gear. Great wall climbing in a great position. Rap off

Start to the left of the bulgy wall. Hand traverse rightwards along break to gain straight up crack.

Climb face a couple of metres right of the wide crack. When the easier slab is reached, drift leftish to tree.

Start: Start about 25 metres right of "Aimless Blade" ata wide crack.

Short with lack of protection, watch for loose hollow block at the start. Very ordinary.

Start In the middle of the second tor down from Bug Powder Dust. Climb past loose block up shallow unprotected crack.

Very thin seam up the face left of A Burnt Out Case, belay when easier ground is reached.

Originally required extensive cleaning and sieging.

Direct start to Decapitating Tweety Birds. Start 4 metres left of that climb. Up to and along the crack.

Up to the ledge, step right around the arete, then up, tending slightly left toward the top.

Start: Start 3 metres right of "Masticating Mice" near the "arete".

An appealing finger crack.

Start: Located on the far left end of the wall (20m left of Wonga Park). It can be difficult to reach when the water is up.

1. 18m (19) Climb the overhanging finger crack and traverse left to a ledge.

2. 10m (14) Easily up corner.

Right hand variant of Do You Mind If I Smoke, start 5 metres to right., Below crack/seams at R end of cave. Gymnastic start up jugs and crack, then trend up and L up horizontals and bulges till you join " Do You Mind If I Smoke" at its crux.

Arete 2m right of "Chosen One". Start either side of the arete and blast straight up.

Weaves around to get up this pleasant wall. Starts 20m left of Wrapped In Pain, just left of scungy looking chimney slot thing. Heave over initial bulge, scuttle left then up mossy rounded face to gain horizontal. Traverse left a few metres then up right trending corner flake. When this runs out climb right (only obvious holds!) and up juggy face to finish. Full rack required + additional slings.

Up crack until it peters out., step right with difficulty, then up more easily in the juggy line above.

Start: On the left arete of "Zsa-Zsa's Crack" is a crack that peters out.

Straight up to the flake, then up.

Start: Start at the left side of the "dished out" section of wall, directly below the flake in the middle of the wall.

Bridging moves lead to a good jam-crack almost in the chimney corner.

Start: Start 10 metres right of "Just Right" just left of a chimney-cleft.

Climb the left arête to chains. Can be climbed sport, or with an optional medium cam to eliminate the runout to the last bolt.

His block.

Go up the right-hand arete of the outcrop, step left at the bulge and up the line.

A pleasant climb up the corner to the left of the great blank wall.

1. 35m (9) Climb the corner and belay somewhere.

2. 30m (9) Continue up the corner to a ledge beneath a steep wall.

3. 15m (9) Take the left-hand crack to the top.

A bit unlikely. Start at the same spot as Horizon, but blast straight up past three FHs and natural gear to anchor at top. Might be harder than 24 for shorties.

Climb upwards diagonally right to the right end of the small ledge at half height. Follow the horizontal breaks to the small overlap/rooflet near the right arête. Committing moves directly up the wall above (crux).

Start: Starts as for 'Moonlight Mile'

Start in the same place as Fiery God.

Trend left up the slabs to below the orange streaks in the overlaps. Through the overlaps via the orange streaks and continue up over another bulge to finishing finger cracks.

Start: From 10 metres right of "Lotus Flower Tower Revisited" scramble onto ledge to belay left of the wide corner line. Step up across right and up left-leaning diagonal line left of the corner.

Up the corner and face to the horizontal break. Traverse right to belay as for "Begegnung"

Start: Start 6 metres left of "Begegnung"

Meanders up the buttress right of "Downpour". Take the weakness leading right to a large ledge. Scramble up.

Maybe someone could push it through to the second terrace without going back into the Exit Cracks. Start at the base of the left=hand Exit Crack. Climb up left to the top of the detached buttress. Step across onto the main wall and pick your way up. Eventually move back right and rejoin the left Exit Crack about 10 metres below the Second Terrace and continue up.

Start right of Stalingrad and move up to slots. Hard moves left into Stalingrad (BR, PR) which is followed to the horizontal. Move right and up to small ledge. Continue up weakness then move left and up grey wall when level with overhang. Finish as for Stalingrad.

Good line with a hard finish. Only worth the grade if you take into consideration the horrific rope drag that is likely to be experienced.

Amble up the slabby corner, move left under the first overlap, then left again under the second overlap to reach the left arete. Now swing up right above the roof and go up the wall.

Up crack to ledge, then up flake and wall above on flakey holds.

Start: The obvious crackline on the west-facing wall 3 metres right of 'Moments Of Doubt'

Enjoyable crack at the right-hand end of "Goldfinger Wall".

The second pitch has runout hard climbing. Objective danger in the form of a giant spider may be encountered on the final pitch.

Start: Start at the hand-crack 4 metres left of Passport To Insanity.

1. 35m (24) Overhanging hand-crack then the thinner crack to a stance at the bottom of a right-leading flake-line.

2. 35m (23) 'Layback' up the flake and then climb diagonally left across the bulging wall to a ledge on the arete. Step left around the arete and then go up the wall above to the second belay of Passport To Insanity.

3. 30m (20) Go diagonally left to a thin crack. Climb this and then move horizontally left to a blocky ledge. Finish strsight up the wall to the top.

The massive boulder opposite the Tower now has 3 bolts up an tricky array of slab moves to reach horizontal. Until someone places another bolt, take a couple of large nuts and/or a medium sized cam to protect the easier upper section. Lower-off.

As much excitement as being chased by a herd of rampaging rhinos. Start near the left end of the cliff. Up the black groove until it is possible to traverse awkwardly right to an exposed pedestal in the middle of the overhanging wall. Follow the shallow groove up and right until jugs lead steeply to the top.

Up right leaning crack system over the technical bulge and up to the break. Traverse to the DBB above Black Iron

Start: 5m left of Black Iron

Pull up the line of buckets. Start on the left side of the orange face at a grey section.

Campbell Mercer repeated and named this route that had previously been written up as a variant to Savage God.

Start up Savage God then take flakes up the right wall. At the final roof, traverse right or go over the roof.

Great sustained jamming.

The major diagonal crack at the left end of the cave.

Novelty climbing through overhang, lack of protection at start.

Start: Runs up centre of the wall at the top of the grotto through the orange overhang.

Up edges on slab to stance below overhang, veer left then up to anchor.

A complete waste of time.

Start: on the left side of the orange wall is a short crack, 4m left of Smoking Is A Health Hazard. After the crack traverse 2m right and then go up rightwards.

Choss. Like climbing the worst sea cliff in Sydney. Not sure why Malcolm did this?!

The easy central section of the main wall, 25m L of Glasnost, offers pleasant climbing. Pro is spaced on the first pitch. 1) 30m The groove system below the major corner is climbed to a belay on the R wall. 2) 30m Traverse R to the obvious cracked arête. Up crack easily to overhang near the top. Up L side of overhang, then step airily R to finish up short corner.

Watch out for the pile of bricks. Climb the middle of the central buttress, starting up the right-slanting corner.

The easiest and most enjoyable way off the First Terrace. The final pitch was added during the first ascent of "Ziggurat".

Start: Start at the left end of the First Terrace where a gully cuts deep into the cliff.

1. 10m (11) From the terrace side of the gully jump back to the main cliff and traverse left to the chimney. There's an ancient bolt somewhere here. The pitch can be done without the jump but where's the fun in that?

2. 25m (11) Up the chimney.

3. 35m (11) Continue up the chimney finishing up the left arete, facing out, to the Second Terrace.

4. 50m (12) Up skyline ridge, starting just left of roof, to summit.

Another big serious route. Originally finished up 'Catwalk' but this description incorporates the steep and poorly protected direct finish.

Start: Start as for Mahommed's Staircase.

1. 43m (11) Scramble up to the shallow corner and climb it until it steepns. Step right and continue up to a narrow ledge and traverse left to a large tree.

2. 46m (11) The line to a small stance.

3. 15m (11) Up to the wide ledge, traverse left and go up to the tree.

4. 28m (11) Traverse left to the First Terrace and belay.

5. 22m (14) Climb the diagonal crack to the steep, juggy wall. Climb the wall until it is possible to move right and belay at the start of a crack system on the face.

6. 40m (12) Climb the line to the terrace (this is all on pitch 3 of "Buddha's Balcony").

7. 46m (-) Climb the chimney to a juggy wall and continue to the top.

On the right wall of the three buttresses is a large flake system. Climb easily up to the roof. Traverse left under the roof and go up the crack.

Hotter than the 'Sahara'. Starts just R of 'Patagonia' at L edge of giant boulder. Either long ropes or a short first pitch would avoid the need for second and leader climbing simultaneously. Up the juggy crack to a seam, The wall is now climbed direct, veering slightly R at half height to a knee bar at the overlap. Step L and continue up the upper wall to the top, crossing Patagonia's original second pitch traverse on the way.

Dual Fuel? Jule Fuel? Who knows how it's meant to be spelt. The usual warning applies: there's only a single bolt between you and the ground at times.

Start as for Nomads / Red Vinyl

Start as for Red Vinyl then link into Breathing Gasoline after about 9m. This eliminates the rest on Breathing Gasoline, making this route rather more sustained! For the record, on 26/4/09, not really knowing what went where, Mike Patz sent a similar link-up at the same sort of grade, this time starting up the first few bolts of Nomads then finishing up Breathing Gasoline.

The seam, dodging around to find protection.

Start: Two metres right of the juggy lines is a thin, closed seam going up diagonally right.

A serious finish. Start at the right-hand side of the First Terrace.

1. 22m (14 R) Climb the diagonal crack to the steep, juggy wall. Climb the wall until it is possible to move right and belay at the start of a crack system on the face.

2. 40m (12) Climb the line to the terrace (this is all on pitch 3 of "Buddha's Balcony").

3. 46m (-) Climb the chimney to a juggy wall and continue to the top.

Left-leaning ramp 15 metres right of "Day Of The Fox". Above the bulge, finish just right of the arete.

Despite a name worthy of Baxter, this is a very good, sustained and atmospheric climb.

Start: Start at a boulder below a steep wall a metre or two right of "Dur Hardder Direct"

1. 30m (18) Step off boulder and go straight up steep wall to an overhang near the left arete. Traverse 8 metres right then diagonally right to small stance.

2. 25m (19) Step left and climb up leftwards through the overhang, heading for a massive bollard. From the bollard continue right up a corner.

3. 20m (-) On up the corner for 5 metres then go up.

4. 25m (-) Up

There is a large corner-crack on the south-west tip of the Insectoid Buttress about 100 metres right of the other climbs. Easiest access is via a ramp through low outcrops at right end of cliff.

From the base of a low wall, climb directly up to the main crack and follow it past two ledges. Originally done in 3 pitches because of the need for lots of large gear.

Climb left past bolt then right to gear placement. Committing climbing to top on slopey bulges. Take small cams and wires.

Start: Starts below the bolt in the middle of the face.

The best route on the wall? At the fourth FH on the Gloaming, instead of going left, go straight up past three more FHs, once on the steep headwall, head right on cams to an anchor.

An alternative is to finish up Sleazy Slimpers, at no change to the grade (no trad gear required).

Very enjoyable. At the left side of the wall is a line of jugs. Steeply up these to a tiny stance in corner then keep going straight up the juggy rib to easier ground.

Steep fun on big holds all the way. Start up 'Hunchback' to tiny stance. Traverse up right on good jugs, then, against your better judgement, straight up overhanging grey wall past FH to sling lower-off point.

Variant finish to Anne Boleyn. From pea-pod take line up to thrilling finish.

Large roof doesn't even come close to describing this. Flake (peg) on right side of cave (facing in) to its end. Bulge, then line across ceiling to exit through left-most hole in roof.

Neil raved about this one long into the night...

A sustained and direct line straight up the face right of 'Kava Boy'. The second pitch is like an easier version of 'Archimedes Principle'.

1. 20m (22) 1) 20m 22 – Up left facing flake crack for a few meters and step left (BR) to gain seam crack. Up this crack which turns briefly into a runnel (#3 SLCD) to second BR and reachy move to gain continuation of cracks. Belay at same stance as end of 'Kava Boy' pitch one.

2. 30m (22) Up 'Kava Boy' for 5m then step right 3m onto the unlikely cracked face. Up this for 8m to horizontal weakness, dogleg right then left (crux) then continue up the amazing wall (between the two corners) to belay on ledge at end of 'Kava Boy' pitch 2. Bring lots of wires for this pitch

3. -m (12) The 'Scramble off right' for 'Karenina', 'Seiging Babylon' and 'Brave New World' is recommended as roped climbing rather than scrambling as it's very exposed and perhaps grade 12. From this exit point walk off as for all other main wall routes.

Start on rib as for 'Alexius' but continue up this with wide crack on the left. When it gets a bit tricky step right slightly and up horizontals to ledge. Step left off ledge back onto wall and up this for 8m to big ledge and belay.

Sustained laybacks on perfect finger locks and edges. Take medium wires and cams. Starts at hanging crack 20m downhill from Mad Cow.

Ninety degree sharp arete with clean wall on right side about 40m right of 'Terra Incognita'. A short corner crack is climbed to a little ledge on the left, then launch up the pocketed arete with some fiddly pro. The final ten metres is jug city. 'Small' to medium gear and slings.

The amazing LH rising traverse starting at ground level 15m from the start of the cliff and finishing at the DBB above Extreme Ironing! Take all of your cams, and some of your mate's! It is yet to receive a continuous ascent. The grade of pitch 2 is the subject of some debate in the range of 20-22.

Start: Starts at ground level 15m along from the start of the cliff

1. 20m (21) Climb the well protected rising diagonal crack /ledge system awkwardly to the DBB above Black Iron.

2. 24m (21) Traverse left along break to 'Incarceration' DBB. Eats cams up to #3.

3. 6m (14) Keep traversing left across from 'Incarceration' to the DBB of Extreme Ironing!

Two FHs then rightwards diagonal fingercrack. Bolted by Kent in the pouring rain using a manky sling as a harness. Hangers were recycled from one of Brookies past glories at Camels Hump. Route was abandoned to the elements for three years and finally climbed by Neil.

This climb is on the South facing wall of the buttress above Mt Pox (also directly uphill from Curiosity). In the middle of the wall is a wide crack, this climb takes the clean line up wall to the R. Up just L of R facing corner and past overlap to the top.

Stela: Carved slab often found adjacent to the temple entrance.

On the South face of the obvious lower block, visible from the tourist track. Short crack to steep moves through the overhang, then up the intermittent cracks and pockets above.

Descend via short scramble.