Routes as trad in Victoria Range

Slick and sustained Arapiles style line.

The central line of the middle buttress.

Leap for jug from rock cairn (FH), then up short face to fingercrack. Up this for 6m to slight stance. Swing right across awkward bulging face (FH) to below final seam. Up this which eases to jugs and lower-off anchor. Bring a full rack and some slings to extend runners in the traverse,

Watch out for skating cams and feet on the slick rock.

Flake crack at left end of wall.

Located on north facing main wall with a large scooped base. Malcolm forgot his harness and had to belay Neil's dogging efforts with a sling around his waist! Three FHs up right leading steep scoops to gain broken crackline. Up this with fiddly trad pro to committing top out up grey wall.

Another fine route by this crack climbing team. The cliff splitting line up the left side of the Crimson Tower. At the top of the chimney (40m) belay on the ledge. Second pitch launches out right across mega exposure to reach summit.

The first climb up the impressive face right of "John The Baptist". The crux pitch is difficult to protect and has friable rock. It is possible that the final two pitches were climbedearlier by Colin Abbott and Richard Morris in Easter 1987 but they may have been on the finish of "Buddha's Wall" instead.

Start: There is an orange and grey corner 63 metres left of "Buddha's Wall". Start immediately right of the corner, below a chimney.

1. 40m (-) Climb up to a right-leading chimney and climb it to a ledge at its top. Go up the groove leading up from the ledge to belay at the long ledge-slot (start of the "Catwalk" traverse.

2. 25m (-) Climb the giant flake above then up a juggy groove to a stance on a "fin".

3. 45m (-) Go up right into the main line and follow it to the top of the huge block on the First Terrace.

4. -m (-) Clamber down into the chasm behind the block to the foot of the line of weakness up the wall behind. This is just left of the centre of the block and 30-50 metres right of the Exit Cracks.

5. 15m (-) The line to an alcove.

6. 35m (17) Up the line above (difficult protection, friable rock) to grassy ledges level with Second Terrace. Scramble off left (roped) to Second Terrace and escape left.

Start: Wide bulging crack on lower cliff, 10m left of access gully to the left side of Flame Wall.

The right side of the flake, then moving left.

Delightful but contrived.

Centre of the slab 3 metres right of "Slippery Dip" and left of steep wall.

Varied face climbing with tricky crux. Can be done as independent line by climbing up via seam 2m L of GRB.

Start: As for Get Ready Bold, then left on flakes that traverse 2m to a stance. Hard move though middle wall (crux). Continue up and slightly L to finish in right facing corner just before upper ledge under large roof. Traverse R to anchor.

Direct start to Snail and improves the line immensely. Takes 3 FH left off the ledge and up to join the line (wires and small cams required).

Orange slab split by thin seam and a great overhung finish. Located on separate buttress 100m left of the second short rock wall you reach on the walk up to the main cliff of 'Gondwanaland'. Bouldery start (RB) then right leading weakness to seam. Up this for 10m then skirt under orange roof and then thug back left across overhang to crux finish. Lower off last bolt or trad belay on ledge and epic walk-down descent. Four bolts plus natural gear to finger crack size. Really needs a lower-off anchor.

A continuous pitch up the centre of the face, gradually steepening as it goes. Desperate friction moves (mossy) 5m left of 'Redback' lead past a FH to a slim groove. Up left past 2no of FH to gain a thin crack which leads to the prominent diagonal. Continue more easily up the left leading diagonal crack to a thin vertical crack. When the crack ends, lurch left to gain another overhanging crack, which leads to the top & lower off anchor. First pitch is clean as a whistle.

Nice line but contrived climbing.

Thin cracks up wall 3 metres left of Reinhardt to a ledge on the left.

Start 2m right of "Cardinal's Ear". Straight through the rooflet to top out in the bushes.

Flakes up the middle right with a tricky start and finish.

An exciting spacey route with great climbing. Start on the steep arete. An exposed traverse past RB leads to a run out and delicate face with natural gear. Climb past a 2nd RB to join Misty Variant, arrange gear and top out. A yellow and green alien are useful to protect the top shallow break.

Start just right of Acting The Goat From the right end of the cave, climb straight up to a vee-notch.

Reported as dangerously loose by the FA party.

Start: Start below a large roof which is a prominent feature of the crag (VRG)

1. 35m (5) Up the line to a perched boulder. Back off a little and go up the right-hand crack to a large ledge on the right.

2. 35m (5) Climb up to the roof. Back off a little and traverse right instead and finish up the wall right of the roof on awesome jugs.

The large corner system right of the orange wall. Start below twin corners that lead up to the terrace below the main corner.

1. 20m (-) Take either of twin corners to terrace. The left-hand is easier and nicer.

2. 35m (21) Climb out the overhang and up into the line, pausing only to hang off your third arm and remove your pullover.

Start 3 metres left of "Bea-Lea" where a thin crack leads up a slab to an overhang.

Climb up to the overhang and step right into a cave. No up the steep crack.

A superb and varied climb in the best Claw tradition. No weird fixed gear though. The first pitch is a tips affair and the second just tips you.

1. 19m (23) Up to corner and fingery, tips moves.

2. 21m (22) Up and left a bit, then right under roofs. Now head out to the arete and go up this on soft rock. Definitely space. Alternatively, you can escape the thing by going diagonally left under the roofs.

Follow the steep crack in the left side of the cave, exiting through the same cave as "Welcome To Barbados".

Climb the crack left of the left arete.

Start left of the original and go straight up into the corner line. 11-1990

A bit close to the hillside but OK.

The orange diagonal crack about 10 metres right of the roof-capped slab (2 metres right of Rake's Progress).

The attractive crack 15 metres right of "Suspended Animation".

The superb thin crack snaking up the left side of the wall.

Blunt orange arete with large horn right of Kilogram etc. Two useless FHs which are positioned in impossible to clip situations. Ignore them and place good trad instead. Rap off bollard or continue up another 20m of rubbish juggy rock. The start is much harder than grade 14.

A wee bit of jamming. A slabby start leads to the diagonal line. At the final overhangs, step R to the finishing crack.

The crack right of the right-hand arete of the outcrop.

Start: Start at wall 4 mtres right of "Roll Over, Oates"

Amusing start and a good continuation

Start 10 metres left of the Sundae gully at an undercut corner.

Pull into corner and up it and easy chimney.

Start at the toe of the right-hand buttress.

Climb the steep groove on the left and then follow cracks up the slab to the right-hand end of the overlap. Exciting moves left lead to a bottomless corner which is followed to the top.

Awkward diagonal on opposite side of gully from "Coldfinger".

Start directly below the concavity. Straight up the wall taking the vague rib just right of the central concavity

Long and wandering. Might be a better climb if the first two pitches were skipped.

Start: Start as for "Temple Of Doom"

1. 45m (14) Straight up to right-leading chimney and follow it to its top (as for "Temple Of Doom"). When the line forks, take the right-hand line and go up and a little right to the major horizontal break.

2. 45m (-) Go left to join "Catwalk" just before the crawl. Follow the break leftwards until below the chimney of "catwalk"'s 4th pitch.

3. 45m (14) Climb up into a corner a few metres left of "Catwalk"'s chimney. Follow the corner until it turns into a crack that curves left to the arete. Follow the arete to a ledge.

4. 25m (14) Up the arete to the First Terrace and belay. Scramble to the base of the Exit Cracks.

5. 48m (17) The left-hand Exit Crack is dirty and often wet.

6. 50m (14) Climb the wall and blunt arete 8 metres right of the gully in the summit block.

On the buttress right of the Insectoid Buttress are two jagged crack-lines starting from the top of a huge detached block. Climb the left groove, stepping left to finish. (The final hard section can be avoided by going straight up).

Follow the water streak, trending slightly left of it towards the top. Scramble up the slabs on the left until able to step across the gully beneath the water streak.

Climb straight up grey rock past some bulges.

Start just right of "Cranker's Wamp" just before the rock becomes much smoother. Climb the faint groove, tending right to the top.

Layback, then face right of 'Consequential'

Start 15 metres right of 'Sidewinder'. Among the worst of the worst. Up dirty wall and then crack splitting slender buttress. Expect fragile rock.

The original finish. From the cave/ledge move left to weakness and up.

Contrived. Centre of narrow slab 5 metres around right of "Fringe Benefits"

Fine climbing up thin cracks.

Start: Start 20 metres right of the large tree of Sinister-Dexter, just left of a corner-gully.

1. 35m (14) Climb the cracks just left of the corner-gully to a small ledge.

2. 15m (14) Move left to a slight corner then back right above the overhang to the front of the buttress and go up.

A fine route marred slightly by a fragile exit. Starts 2m left of blunt arête at left end of first wall. Follow twin cracks to good holds and gear at steepening. Committing climbing to ledge. Step right to belay and rap anchors. Initial escape was off right past dodgy tree and above. Alternatively up big chimney.

Easy scamble up right arete of Exploration Wall to Anchors

A continuation to Begegnung

1. 20m (17) Up Begegnung to rap station on ledge.

2. 15m (3) Walk right (facing the cliff) on ledge and up to terrace.

3. 15m (20) Blast steeply up the left side of the juggy steep face passing two amazing (yet to be done) left traverses about 2m apart (vertically). Belay at ledge. A rap station here would be useful.

Start a few metres right of the chossy black off-width.

Climb the orange wall to weakness in the dark rock above. Belay at ledge a few metres higher. Downclimb back of buttress into gully.

Terrible name. Starts 7 metres right of More Exciting Than Sex. Straight up through the narrowest section of the overhang to follow the dished area of rock up and right for 2 metres, then straight up.

Start at a crack near the middle of the lowest tier.

Climb the crack, step right to go through bulges and continue to ledge. Up headwall to finish through notch directly above start.

Start through steep orange bulges veering left. Move right to grey face. Slab moves to central seamy crack. Up crack to roof, exit right.

Steep and sustained climbing on excellent rock. Start 3 metres left of Scarecrow and immediately left of the cave. Up and then diagonally right to blunt arete. Up. Presumably a rest was taken on gear at some point.

A brilliant and well-protected climb.

Start: Start as for 'The Cold War'.

1. 25m (23) Climb corner, then step left onto wall and directly above rock 'fin' to gain crack. Climb this to belay at horizontal break.

2. 27m (24) Continue up shallow corner (crux) and exit onto wall above. Step right into corner system and follow this up. Beneath the overlap avoid pulling on the loose block; you'll need it to stand on! Gear: Wires, small and medium cams up to 1 camalot. (Note: This took around 5 months of solid attempts to bag the 1st ascent. A very dedicated leader rightly got his glorious prize after much hard work). DBB/Rings

Go diagonally right up the juggy grassland to slightly awkward exit up right-leading crack.

1. 25m As for 'Ancient Times' to R-hand end of the ledge. Progress to block at top of slab. 2) 35m (crux) Up and R across wall on in-cuts to base of juggy crack in steep wall. Motor up (sling runners) to a rest on the lip. Cross 'Ancient Times' to finish directly up the steep, juggy head-wall.

Towards the bottom of the cliffline is an obvious capped corner crack. Sandy start leads to a nice pull through the overhang then easily to top.

Arete of clean wall above platform around left of 'Shaggy Dog Stories'.

A grand route with solid climbing well out from runners.

Start: Start at the left end of the long ledge under the main wall, under a small flake high up.

1. 40m (24) Move up on the left, then balance delicately up right to a break. Move right then precariously up to the next break. Traverse back left then straight up to the flake. Step left at top of flake and boldly up wall above to stance.

2. 30m (-) Up, then tend left up wall until able to gain right-hand end of huge horizontal block at the summit overhang. Pull over roof-line to top.

1. 15m Up main L-leading dyke to belay as for 'Arrows of Desire'. 2) 40m Straight up to the R end of first little roof on 'Arrows of Desire'. Move R to easier ground, then head diagonally up L to finish on prow.

Corner left of "The Radgel" past BR to falkes to "Norton Is For Nancy's

3 metres right of The Dude is a short overhanging flake-crack. Up flake-crack then right to ledge. Up easy walls and overlaps.

Right around arete from chimney at left end of block closest to creek. Up just right of arete.

The chimney left of the corner.

The crack 3 metres left of The Hot Club to a ledge. Finish up a corner on the right.

Never trust a lawyer. Climb a vague line on the wall just right of Unberievable, traversing left into that climb near the top.

Up the corner and slab above to tree and abseil.

Start: Start 20 metres right of "Old Moll", on the same level, at the obvious corner with the small roof at the top.

Start left of the low roof with the double-trunked tree (which may no longer be there).

1. 42m 11 Step of from the large boulder and climb the chossy wall, passing 6m left of the double tree (if it's still there). Up to the prominent V-chimney, climb the bulge on the left and up the wall above to a belay.

2. 30m Jugs to the top.

25 metres right of La Volley is a buttress with a left-leaning diagonal crack system. Poorly protected. Follow the crack system until it peters out then straight up.

Poor rock and protection.

Start: Start below the initialled chimney 16 metres left of "The Fatted Calf".

1. 41m (12) Move up into the chimney and continue to below a pinnacle on the left.

2. 38m (12) Step across the gap and go up the line to a large ledge.

3. 43m (-) Easily up the arete as for "The Fatted Calf".

Right of the broad gully is a wide-looking crack just right of a major corner.

Walk left below the ramp leading to the Main Wall until a grey buttress is reached, directly below a steep crack-line in Main Wall above. Alternatively, continue left from the foot of Frank Zappa to here.

1. 25m (-) Climb the grey buttress to the ledge.

2. 30m (12) Up the crack-line directly behind the first pitc, via a sentry box and through numerous overlaps.

Twin cracks at left end of wall.

Unpleasant climbing. Start on left side of rib left of the cave. Up rib and veer right via a small roof.

Start 1 metre left of right arete. Straight up for 15 metres. Traverse right at break to arete. Up.

High up on the hill above Don't Be Denied is a mossy wall, the left of three buttresses The crack on this is worthless. On the next buttress down right from this climb the pedestal and short corner 5 metres right of the guano-stained crack.

The first of two cracks to the left of 'Peep Show'. Climb the short wall to the base of the crack. At the top of the crack traverse right to finish as for 'Peep Show'.

20m right of 'A Good Day Out'. Climb nice looking crack 3m left of 'Gorker' to under overlap. Exit left. Rap from tree.

Up weakness and crack; step left through smooth section, back right to line and up. Scramble off and descend carefully to the left.

Start: 10m left of 'Against The Tide'.

Follow the left-slanting dyke left of the corner all the way. Just below the roofline traverse 7-8 metres left to a small stance just below shattered terrace. Abseil from a shonky knob of rock (or tackle the horrific upper part of the cliff).

Start: Start at the base of the dirty corner.

Start at the lovely clean crack 1m right of the black line forming the black identifying chimney.

Go up clean crack until it peters out (when it gets pumpy there is a huge secret hold out right). Step left into the chimney and follow the black line to a large ledge at 30 metres. Continue to the top (as climbed) or belay and walk left to 23 metre rap from bollard.

Start as for 'Diamonds In The Forest' but finish up thin cracks and seams 2 metres left of that route.

Initial corner then crack/corner 4 metres right of "Urban Paranoia"

Start: Start as for "Urban Paranoia"

The steep left wall of the big corner offers sustained climbing with some brittle rock.

Pull into corner then climb the centre of the juggy right wall.

Start: Left again is another big undercut corner.

Companion to "Soma Crack", curving diagonally right across that climb.

Start midway between "No Bagwans" and "Soma Crack"

1. 25m (15) Prominent diagonal line finishing up wall left of "Soma Crack".

2. 35m (15) Steeply up the centre of the wall right of "Soma Crack".

above "Let Sleeping Buffalo's lie" is an obvious (very) steep crack, which cuts left across a huge roof. There are some bolt runners above the roof. There is also a very handy rap station at the top of the route which is also useful for 'Kava Boy', and "Karenina". Just be careful when stepping down to it!

Major crack system around left of "Grand Oral Disseminator", behind boulder.

Start 3 metres right of chimney up right leaning easy rock to stance 4 metres above the ground. Use pockets to reach high into small crack then moving slightly right on slopers. Tree Anchor. Easy walk off right.