Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Bullawin Road Crawford's Crag | |||||
18 R | Fight For The Filly
Climb the poorly protected wall right of Any Old Choss Just Don't Do Wuss!. Finish up the steep central crack on good holds and much better pro. FA: Glenn Tempest, Michael hampton & Peter Campbell, 1996 | 30m | |||
19 | Any Old Choss Just Won't Do Wuss!
Up left of rooflet and up righthand crack to tree. Step up left to stance then swing on to arete to buckets. Thin and gritty climbing leads to top. Start: Scramble on to terrace towards south (left) side of crag. FA: Glenn Tempest, Peter Campbell & Michael Hampton, 1996 | 30m | |||
17 | Gluteus
Start: Scramble to the highest block below the left-leaning crackline on the left buttress. There is a fork in the line at half-height.
FA: Peter Treby & David Lia, 1980 | 55m, 2 | |||
20 | ★★ Beastmaster
A ripsnorter of a route. Despite having quite a bit of easier climbing it is constantly clean and offers some spectacular exposure. Start: Scramble up from the little camping cave left of 'Lambs To The Slaughter' to a large ledge from which two obvious parallel lines start.
FA: Stephen Hamilton & Simon Mentz (var), 1989 | 72m, 4 | |||
16 | ★★ Lambs To The Slaughter Variant Start
Better Than the original start. Start 10 metres to the left up an easy line. At 5 metres go diagonally right and up the grey wall to a shallow, left-facing corner that leads to the large ledge. FA: Peter Treby & Neil Barr, 1987 | 35m | |||
18 R | ★★ Lambs To The Slaughter
A big adventure route with a poorly-protected crux pitch. The sheer effort required to for the three trips to make the free ascent demands respect. Start: Towards the right-hand end of the northern-most crag is a wide corner system with an impressive left wall in the upper part. Start about 15 metres left of the corner itself, where the cliff is at its lowest.
FA: Peter Treby & Neil Barr, 1987 | 150m, 5 | |||
Bullawin Road Gavin's Gash | |||||
10 | Windrows Are All The Go
Towards the left-hand end of the cliff is a compact wall with an obvious crack line. Up the line to the roof, left unde the roof and up. FA: Neil Barr & Peter Treby, 1992 | 20m | |||
Bullawin Road Cyclops Wall | |||||
17 | Stony Road
FA: Chris Baxter & Mike Stone (alt), 1983 | 85m, 4 | |||
17 | ★ Scratch Game
FA: Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns (alt), 1983 | 60m, 3 | |||
15 | Bitter Stick
All pitches about the same grade.
FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter (alt), 1983 | 90m, 3 | |||
Geerak Track McDonald Creek Gorge | |||||
25 | Effy The Emu
Climb the ragged crack left of Big Mac to the horizontal break. Step right and continue up the crack, a few metres left of Big Mac's final crack to a tricky exit. Watch out for loose blocks. FA: Geoff Butcher, Jane Rusden, Sharyn George & Michael Hampton, 2000 | 18m | |||
22 | Big Max
The next routes are on an attractive orange wall just to the right of the creek and waterfall. Solid jamming solves the crack lust left of the arete. At the horizontal, traverse left and climb the crack and wall to its right. Step right to exit. FA: Glenn Tempest & Michael Hampton, 2000 | 26m | |||
16 | The Arc Of A Diver
Arete of clean wall above platform around left of 'Shaggy Dog Stories'. FA: Michael Hampton & Edwin Young, 1992 | 15m | |||
21 | Shaggy Dog Stories
Good. Line from cave left of 'Pedestrian Crossing'. FA: Michael Hampton & Edwin Young, 1992 | 10m | |||
20 | Pedestrian Crossing
Gem. Start: Start at line one metre left of 'Face Full Of Black Boys'. Up line, left to next line and up. FA: Glenn Tempest & Edwin Young, 1992 | 12m | |||
19 | Face Full Of Black Boys
Nice. Vague line on nose. FA: Edwin Young & Michael Hampton, 1992 | 8m | |||
Geerak Track Brown's Creek Gorge | |||||
15 | Hawkerboy
Continue a further 15 minutes further up the creek from New Romantic to an orange buttress on right, about 160m downstream from the start of the gorge. Gr 089520. Total access time around 50 minutes. (There is another orange buttress about 60m further upstream, that is, about 100m from the start of the gorge.) Start about 15m right of orange overhangs. Up right facing corner to large ledge at third height. Continue up corner, passing overhang by stepping left onto ledge then back into corner. FA: Glen Donohue & James McIntosh, 2005 | 25m | |||
18 | Michele's Valentine
Diagonally out right and over bulge just left of arete. Over ledge then follow wall just left of arete. Start: Start as for Lizane's Valentine. FA: Wayne Maher & Graham Gittins, 1993 | 20m | |||
16 | Lizane's Valentine
Straight up wall, over ledge and wall behind. Start: Start on the left side of small face at the left end of the outcrop. FA: Graham Gittins & Wayne Maher, 1993 | 16m | |||
16 | New Romantic
The shallow box corner on the right side of the overhanging face. FA: Wayne Maher & Graham Gittins, 1993 | 15m | |||
Geerak Track Pump Wall (Cambell's Rock) | |||||
21 | ★★ Fruits of Good & Evil
A surprisingly good route on mostly clean diagonal line on the L wall (looking up) of the main descent gully. About halfway up - locate large left leading diagonal lines. Climb takes the thin face that leads into main diagonal. Obvious crack on the L could be an easier alternate to the somewhat desperate first pitch.
FA: Goshen Watts & harold ramsey, 6 Mar 2015 | 45m, 2 | |||
19 | ★★ Forbidden Fruit
Potentially a 'Grampians' classic taking the huge, right-facing sickle in the middle of the cliff.
FA: Chris Baxter & Hugh Foxcroft, 1983 | 120m, 3 | |||
Geerak Track Nowhere Crag | |||||
15 | The Middle Of Nowhere
Start through steep orange bulges veering left. Move right to grey face. Slab moves to central seamy crack. Up crack to roof, exit right. FA: Peter Campbell & Jamie Serle, 1994 | 28m | |||
Geerak Track Minmin Hill | |||||
13 | Just Do It
Prominent right-veering crack about 50 metres downhill and right of the other climbs. FA: Jamie Serle & Peter Campbell, 1994 | 18m | |||
13 | Rappanewy
Geddit? The next wall down has a pillar forming its left arete. Climb the crack 1 metre right of the arete. FA: Michael Hampton & Rhyl Shaw, 1994 | 10m | |||
16 | Series 2000
Climb the wall 1 metre right of "Dances With hakea" past a small blank crack. FA: Geoff Butcher & Regon Grove, 1994 | 9m | |||
16 | Dances With Hakea
On the first grey wall on the lower, broken wall. Climb to horizontal, up flake, step right and up. FA: Michael Hampton & Rhyl Shaw, 1994 | 10m | |||
12 | Genesis Gorge
Take faint line in middle of cliff to ledge. Start: Start 3 metres right of "Salt Water Wells In My Eyes" FA: Geoff Butcher & Regon Grove, 1994 | 18m | |||
16 | Salt Water Wells In My Eyes
The prominent line 5 metres right of "Real Life". Climb the right-curving flake-line to bulges. Continue straight up. FA: Geoff Butcher & Judy Grove, 1994 | 18m | |||
17 | Real Life
Traverse right then up to gain right-veering crack. Up crack to take bulge on left. Start: Start 4 metres right of "The Cut-Throat Business Of Haberdashery" FA: Peter Campbell & Jamie Serle, 1994 | 20m | |||
13 | The Cut-Throat Business Of Haberdashery
Start on left-hand side of wall of the main tier. Climb wall just right of arete. FA: Peter Campbell & Jamie Serle, 1994 | 20m | |||
18 | Yams Are Yummy
Good climbing with a bold crux on the upper tier. Climb the obvious right-leading crack to the bulge, reach around bulge (crux), then continue up wall above. FA: Geoff Butcher, 1994 | 20m | |||
Geerak Track Pot Wall | |||||
20 | Rocky Road
"Pot-hole never felt so good." Start: Towards the righe end, scramble up to terrace. Climb the ragged flake to right-leading crack. Pull onto beautiful grey, pocketed wall and go up. FA: Michael hampton & Geoff Butcher, 1994 | 18m | |||
Geerak Track Chatterbox Rock | |||||
19 | Uncle Toucan
Start at a short corner. Good steep climbing up the right arete. FA: Michael Hampton & Peter Campbell, 1994 | 15m | |||
14 | Wall Street
Initial corner then crack/corner 4 metres right of "Urban Paranoia" Start: Start as for "Urban Paranoia" FA: Peter Campbell & Jamie Serle, 1993 | 20m | |||
18 | Urban Paranoia
Traverse delicately right below bulge. Climb crack through bulge with easier moves to finish. Start: Starts under the nose on the left side of the compact front wall. FA: Peter Campbell, Jamie Serle & Geoff Butcher, 1994 | 22m | |||
16 | Birdie's Perch
Flake to overlap, moving left to finish up flake. Start: Start at small flake 1 metre left of "Urban Paranoia" FA: Geoff Butcher & Rhyl Shaw, 1993 | 10m | |||
14 | Job On The Way
The flakes, moving left into an open crack to finish. Start: Start at small break in wall 1 metre left of "Birdie's Perch" FA: Geoff Butcher, Regon Grove & Judy Grove, 1993 | 10m | |||
Geerak Track Roadside Crag Roadside Prow | |||||
20 | Remains Of The Day
Quite sustained and steeper than it looks. Start: Start on the next wall right and uphill from Roadside Prow. Climb seams on left side of wall until an awkward move right gains a finger crack. Up to horizontal, step left and pull up on good edges. Buckets appear soon after. FA: Michael Hampton & Geoff Butcher, 1994 | 20m | |||
12 | My Beautiful Laundrette
Climb the right side of the wall right of 'Sink The Slipper'. FA: Peter Campbell & Jamie Serle, 1994 | 18m | |||
15 | Sink The Slipper
Climb steeply past good horizontals to orange turret. Step left then up to finish. Start: Start on the left side of the south face, just right of orange prow. FA: Peter Campbell & Jamie Serle, 1994 | 20m | |||
Geerak Track Roadside Crag Lizardry Outcrop | |||||
17 | Cold And Flu
Slope up the wall and climb the bulge. Continue up the wall and finish directly over the top overhang. Start: Start 4 metres right of 'Lizardry' below a cracked bulge at 4 metres. FA: Terry Tremble, Kieran Loughran & Paul Vlahovic. Winter, 1984 | 23m | |||
14 | Lizardry
Climb up the weakness in the wall to a ledge. Step right and go up the corner. Traverse 2 metres right just below a loose block and then go up to where you can escape or climb a left-leading flake into the crack above the roof and go up this crack. Start: Start below and just left of a corner on the right wall of the big corner. FA: Bill Andrews & Peter Watling, 1979 | 23m | |||
21 | Old Bones
Left of the main corner system is a compact orange wall. Start on nose below an obvious break in the bulge at half-height. Pull up[ right then back left onto pedestal. Tackle wall then continue up and over crack in bulge. Easier climbing leads left and up. (The obvious finish up the break in the arete has atrocious rock and poor protection) FA: Michael Hampton & Geoff Butcher, 1994 | 18m | |||
Geerak Track Roadside Crag Roadside Crag - Main Face | |||||
21 | ★ Pump It Up
Really steep and good. Go straight up to the notch at the right-hand end of the roof. FA: Mike Law, Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter, 1983 | 17m | |||
23 | Heavy Bruceing
Pretty pumpy. Sort of like 'The Gallery' without the fixed gear. About 80 metres up the hillside is a steep wall. Start 4 metres left of "Pump It Up". The remains of an old fireplace may still be visible here. Climb the wall, moving right to within 1 metre of Pump It Up below the final bulge. Pull over the bulge and hand-traverse left to the corner. Now motor out the 3-4 metre roof. FA: Mike Law, 1983 | 17m | |||
15 | Slow Hand
Climb diagonally left below the overhangs until you can pull through on jugs. Go up easily to the final bulge where things pep up a bit. Start: Right of "Dum Dum Daze" and left of the descent chimney, a slab slants up left. FA: Chris Baxter, Dave gairns & Sue Matthews, 1983 | 30m | |||
21 | Dum Dum Daze
Pumpy. Dangerous to second as it parallels the hillside for a time. Start 2 metres right of "Winter Chills" Go diagonally right up the corner and around the roof. Layback the delicate flake leading left and up. FA: Mike Law, 1983 | 32m | |||
21 | Winter Chills
Apparently Mikl was leaving this for the foxy team. Sadly, they didn't make it and it was left for Terry to claw past their chalk a year later in bitter weather. Start: Start 2 metres right of 'Dirk Strutter' at a break in the overhang. Climb the break in the overhang and step right into the left-leaning corner. Climb the corner to easy finish. FA: Terry Tremble & Kieran Loughran. Winter, 1984 | 30m | |||
22 | Dirk Strutter
Two hard sections and some obscure moves. Start: Start 2 metres right of "Bored Of Discipline", 1-2 mteres left of the next obvious break. Go up a thin face through an area of weird 45-degree strata and then up a fine line on grey rock with a hard sit-down(!) move. Now easily on. FA: Mike Law & Dave Gairns, 1983 | 35m | |||
19 | Bored Of Discipline
Looks reasonable. Start a few metres right of "Swinging Couples" at a short slab-corner. Go left and up to the top of the slab, then step right and go up the line. FA: Mike Law & Dave Gairns, 1983 | 40m | |||
12 | Swinging Couples
Start just right of "Cranker's Wamp" just before the rock becomes much smoother. Climb the faint groove, tending right to the top. FA: Chris Baxter & Sue Matthews, 1983 | 40m | |||
12 | Crankers Wamp
Start: Start about 5 metres right of "Peregrination" where a short crack slants up left through steep rock.
FA: Chris Baxter & Sue Matthews, 1983 | 48m, 2 | |||
10 | Peregrination
Moss city. Start: Start 5 metres right of "War Is Hell", 10 metres right of "English Heatwave".
FA: Peter Treby & David Lia, 1980 | 50m, 2 | |||
20 | War Is Hell
So-so. Everything is two grades harder than it looks. Start: Start 5 metres right of "English Heatwave" ata steep orange face with a roof and corner line.
FA: Mike Law & Ian Ravenscroft, 1983 | 50m, 2 | |||
21 | ★★ William Gripper
Start: Find "War Is Hell" and start 3 metres left of it; that is 2 metres right of "English Heatwave".
FA: Mike Law, Ian Ravenscroft & Chris Baxter, 1983 | 50m, 2 | |||
20 | ★★ Split Second
Portable belays take note. Start: Start as for "English Heatwave".
FA: Mike Law, Dave gairns & Chris Baxter, 1983 | 55m, 3 | |||
16 | ★ English Heatwave
The huge corner near the right end of the main face. Some doubtful rock.
FA: Peter Treby & Peter Watling, 1978 | 70m, 2 | |||
19 | Pebble Finish
An airy route taking the left arete of the huge corner.
FA: Mike Law, Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1979 | 68m, 3 | |||
18 | Space Invaders
Move steeply up the wall to confront the purplish-coloured overhang with a crack through it. Pass the overhang and climb the juggy but tiring wall to a large ledge. Easily to the top. Start: Start 5 metres right of "Mae West" and 5 metres left of "Pebble Finish" FA: Peter Martin & Hugh Foxcroft, 1983 | 60m | |||
17 | Mae West Direct Finish
| 40m | |||
14 | Mae West
Start: Start 10 metres right of "Making Movies" at the right-hand end of the undercut, 12 metres left of "English Heatwave".
FA: David Lia & Peter Treby, 1980 | 65m, 3 | |||
19 | ★ Making Movies
Excellent climbing along the largest of the diagonals. Start: Start 2 metres right of "Peace, Love And Happiness".
FA: Mike Stone & Dave Gairns, 1983 | 40m, 2 | |||
23 R | Peace, Love And Happiness
Serious, contrived crux section can be avoided. Start: Start at the next clear spot at the base of the cliff, 10 metres right of "Another Roadside Attraction".
FA: Mike Law & Mike Stone, 1983 | 38m, 2 | |||
23 | ★ Another Roadside Attraction
Good climbing with a fingery start. Start at the pocketed scoop 6 metres right of Rainbow Road. Difficult climbing through the pocketed scoop. Above, move right into the diagonal right of Rainbow Road and follow it. FA: Tony Marian, Craig Nottle & Robin Miller, 1983 | 40m | |||
18 | ★ Rainbow Road
Not quite the offwidth one is expecting; not at all bad. Originally done in two pitches. Start in much the same place as Collector's Item, a couple of metres right of the left end of the undercut section. Move up then go right just above the undercut to gain the lowest and leftmost of the diagonals. Steep climbing leads to an exit right into a guano-stained niche (belay on first ascent). Follow the line above with good moves around the bulge. FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter (alt), 1983 | 40m | |||
15 | Collector's Item
Some people will do anything to get their name on a crag. A more direct version of "Dead Ignorance". Start 3 metres right of Dead Ignorance and go straight up the buttress right of the black wall. Finish just left of a large prow. FA: Craig Nottle, Russell Crow & Brian Fish, 1980 | 40m | |||
11 | Dead Ignorance
Wandering, with loose blocks. Start a metre or two right of Vestigial Remnant, 1 metre left of the beginning of the undercut section. Up diagonally right for 10 metres then go left a little to a flake on the right edge of the black rock. Up and right to finish through loose-looking blocks. Scramble off with care. FA: Peter Treby & David Lia, 1980 | 40m | |||
9 | Vestigial Remnant
Worthless leftover. Down on the main face, at the left side is a black wall just left of an undercut section. Take the groove on the left side of the black wall, heading slightly left to stay out of the gully continuation. FA: David Lia & Cafriona Prictor, 1980 | 40m | |||
Geerak Track Roadside Crag Goldfinger Wall | |||||
19 | Lebanese Goldfish
Enjoyable crack at the right-hand end of "Goldfinger Wall". FA: Craig Nottle, Brian Fish, Russell Crow & Michael Collie, 1983 | 16m | |||
17 | Brownfinger
We have all used the occasional tree for assistance but this climb is half over by the time you're out of it. Climb the curving tree right of Goldilocks until it is possible to step onto the wall beneath a break in the bulge. Climb over the bulge and continue diagonally left. FA: Robin Miller (solo), 1983 | 15m | |||
23 | Wrong Side Of The Crate
If you haven't got a bed to get out the wrong side of. Vague line 2 metres right of Goldilocks. FA: Chris Shepherd, 1983 | 15m | |||
10 | Goldilocks
The thin crack in the middle of 'Goldfinger' Wall has a problematic layback start leading to energy-sapping jugs. FA: Brian Fish, Michael Collie, Russell Crow & Craig Nottle, 1983 | 17m | |||
13 | Doddle
The slab. Start: Start about 50 metres up and around left from 'Goldfinger' Wall, towards the back of the crag is a short slab. FA: Hugh Foxcroft & Peter Megens, 1983 | 13m | |||
Geerak Track Off Road Walls | |||||
16 | Photographic Evidence
Sustained, exciting and exposed climbing up the right arete of the big cave. Climb the left "Bridge of Thighs" and climb up left of the hanging block. Then step left and climb up, trending left. FA: James McIntosh, Gordon talbett & Andy Long, 1994 | 45m | |||
Geerak Track The Backblocks | |||||
18 | Tenement Funster
Start at a crack near the middle of the lowest tier. Climb the crack, step right to go through bulges and continue to ledge. Up headwall to finish through notch directly above start. FA: Michael hampton, Rhyl Shaw & Geoff Butcher, 1994 | 20m | |||
Geerak Track Roadside Creek Gorge | |||||
14 | No Squids On Stirling!
Crack 2 metres left of "Predictable". FA: Michael Hampton & Rhyl Shaw, 1994 | 8m | |||
17 | Predictable
Bouldery. Crack and nose a few metres left of What Prickle Bush Is That. FA: Michael Hampton & Rhyl Shaw, 1994 | 8m | |||
8 | What Prickle Bush Is That
The juggy crack up the arete opposite the pinnacle. FA: Rhyl Shaw & Michael Hampton, 1994 | 8m | |||
15 | Digging In The Dirt
Crack in the arete to left of HT (?) FA: Michael Hampton & Rhyl Shaw, 1994 | 10m | |||
17 | Controlled Burn
Fun mantle with a reachy finish. Crack to the left of the chimney that splits the squat pinnacle. FA: Michael Hampton & Rhyl Shaw, 1994 | 10m | |||
18 | Geerak N' Ruin
Nicely sustained. Start at the right end of the smooth dark wall behind the pinnacle. Crack to smooth wall, left a bit and up. FA: Michael Hampton & Rhyl Shaw, 1994 | 12m | |||
Geerak Track Water Race Wall | |||||
18 | Orange Crush
On the detached pinnacle right of H2O 's gully is a ragged orange flake. Up, step right, up. FA: Geoff Butcher, Kym Sinclair & Michael Hampton, 1997 | 10m | |||
19 | H2O
Shallow corner to right-facing curving flake. Move left at horizontal weakness then up. FA: Glenn Tempest & Michael Hampton, 1993 | 15m | |||
15 | Pipeline
The top-to-bottom crack splitting the middle of the wall. FA: Michael Hampton & Glenn Tempest, 1993 | 17m | |||
19 | Pass Me A Bucket Please!
The next crack. FA: Michael Hampton, 1993 | 15m | |||
19 | Dipstick
A bouldery little number. Up seams just left of Wet Behind The Ears. FA: Michael hampton, Kym Sinclair & Geoff Butcher, 1997 | 12m | |||
18 | Wet Behind The Ears
The second line from the left. FA: Michael Hampton, 1993 | 14m | |||
16 | Beachball
The seam on the left. FA: Glenn Tempest (solo), 1993 | 11m | |||
Geerak Track Stumpytail Rock | |||||
19 | A Strain On The Marriage
Wide crack where nuts are supposed to be more use than cams. Take large hexes and either 4.5 tube or equivalent Bigbro. The yellow crack in the west face is quite steep and has an exciting finish. FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1987 | 20m | |||
Geerak Track Big Wall | |||||
14 | Goody Two-Shoes
The line just right of "Upward Propulsion" with a very loose undercut start. FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns & Sue Matthews, 1983 | 40m | |||
13 | Upward Propulsion
There aren't enough chances to practise this technique. The body-crack down right of Dug Scott. FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter & Sue Matthews, 1983 | 40m | |||
14 | Dug Scott
Climb the corner at the left end of the cliff, go left under the roof and finish steeply. FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter & Sue Matthews, 1983 | 25m | |||
Geerak Track Kindergarten Wall | |||||
18 | Thomas the Tank Engine
Through overlap, up line and bulge. Start: Start 3 metres right of "Tattle Tales" FA: Greg Aimer & Chrissy Freestone, 1996 | 10m | |||
17 | Tattle Tales
Up line 1.5 metres right of "Blowing Gum" to overlap and through FA: Greg Aimer & Chrissy Freestone, 1996 | 14m | |||
12 | Blowing Gum
Twin cracks at left end of wall. FA: Greg Aimer & Chrissy Freestone, 1996 | 14m | |||
Geerak Track Swamp Wall | |||||
17 | Swamp Fox Variant
Follow "Swamp Fox"'s first diagonal all the way until it finishes. Plonk some gear in a good horizontal and go straight up the black streak to exit as for "Swamp Fox". FA: Geoff Butcher, Kym Sinclair, Michael Hampton & Helen Barbin, 2000 | 28m | |||
15 | ★ Swamp Fox
One of the better climbs hereabouts, although that's not saying much. Start: Start 20 metres left of "Picanniny" at diagonal cracks on a steep wall. Climb a short vertical crack 3 metres left of the foot of the diagonals to the first diagonal crack. Follow this diagonal until steep face-climbing leads up right to the base of the second diagonal crack. Finish steeply up this crack. FA: Peter Watling & Ceri Law, 1979 | 28m | |||
7 | Picaninny
Climb the left line to the roof and exit left. FA: Peter Watling & Peter Cunningham, 1978 | 10m | |||
6 | Lupin
Left of Peregrine is a gully which is the normal descent route. On the east side of the gully is a cliff with a roof towards its left side. Two lines lead up to the roof. This is the right-hand line, a flake, to the roof. Move right and up to a bushy ledge. Chimney to top. FA: Keith Egerton, 1978 | 20m |