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Access: Climbing in Kuring gai Chase National Park

The new plan of management has been released, providing potential to legitimise access to areas other than Barrenjoey. If you would like to get involved in a working party, please get in touch with president.nsw@ climb.org.au

Here’s what the new plan says: Rock climbing and abseiling will continue to be allowed at a designated site in Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park at Barrenjoey Head. Applications for the authorisation of these activities at other suitable sites within Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park may be considered where safety, visitor access, environmental, and cultural heritage assessments have demonstrated that the activity can be sustainably managed and will not impact significantly on park values.

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Created 7 weeks ago
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Access issues inherited from Ku-ring-gai Chase

Rock climbing and abseiling will continue to be allowed at a designated site in Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park at Barrenjoey Head. Applications for the authorisation of these activities at other suitable sites within Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park may be considered where safety, visitor access, environmental, and cultural heritage assessments have demonstrated that the activity can be sustainably managed and will not impact significantly on park values.

Approach

Park as for "The Temple of Doom" and follow the same track east. When you get to a burnt out car wreck (where you turn left to go to the Temple), turn right and follow the track down to the right hand end of the crag. Climbs are described right to left, facing the cliff.

Ethic inherited from Ku-ring-gai Chase

ACANSW is working to reopen suitable areas in the National Park. If you want to be on the working party - established March 2024, please get in touch.

Routes

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Grade Route

FA: Steve Kelly

FA: Mike Robertson/Steve Kelly

FA: Steve Kelly/Pete James

FA: Matt Gugel

FA: Matt Gugel

FA: Matt Gugel

16 if you climb the corner, 19 if you climb the face

FA: Gavin Portier, 1996

FA: Toby Cogley

FA: Steve Kelly

FA: Toby Cogley

Up flake to gain difficult slab. Technical and sustained. 4 rings to double

FA: Gav Portier

Centre line following 4 rings up low angled slab

FA: Gavin Portier - Barry Jones, 2009

FA: Gavin Portier / Barry Jones, 2009

FA: Simon Richardson

FA: Gavin Portier - Barry Jones, 2009

FA: Gavin Portier - Barry Jones, 2009

FA: Barry Jones / Gavin Portier, 2009

right end of low level roof next to descent gully

FA: Matthew Gugel

FA: Matt Gugel

FA: Jason Rutter

FA: Toby Cogley

FA: Toby Cogley

FA: Matt Gugel

This crag is unlocated

If you know where this crag is then please take a minute to locate it for the climbing community. Please contact us if you have any issues.

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Mike Forward and Peter Balint

Date: 2023

With 2065 bouldering problems ranging from V0-V15 across 57 areas nestled around Sydney, the all new Sydney Bouldering Guide will keep you occupied for years to come. Just because we live in Sydney we'll try not to be biased but honestly this city has some amazing bouldering and usually not more than a few minutes off the road or some even near parks and train stations. There's no need to camp out and trek for hours to get to world class problems, they're right on your door step.

Authors Mike Forward and Peter Balint spent over 7 years putting this guide together and is the first new bouldering guide for Sydney in over 20 years. It's over 350 colour pages including 600+ colour photo tops, crag tops, amazing images and more.

Author(s): Neil Monteith & Simon Carter

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9780645299908

Featuring 1142 climbing routes located at 24 of the best crags in the Sydney area, this A5 size guide book is super user friendly with easy to use colour cliff topos and access maps. Covers sport and trad climbing at a variety of grades, something for everyone.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Thu 13 Apr
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