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Routes in The North Cliff

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Showing all 21 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
Unknown year
Open Project: Center Crack

Not very much to jam at all. Doable?

TradProject Galston Gorge
CLOSED Project - Chris & Adrian

Line of bolts up bouldery arête right of the sloping corner crack.

Set: A.Batey

SportProject 11m, 6 Galston Gorge
Open Project: Right Crack

Might be possible to climb the lichenous wall using the thin roof crack for protection.

TradProject Galston Gorge
18 Forty Years at Galston Variant Start

Start in the corner then traverse out under roof to lip.

Trad 18m Galston Gorge
16 Krystal Lovelong

Up wall on jugs past 1 bolt, 0.5-1 Friend in break, then up on thin moves past 2nd bolt. DRBB on top.

Set: A.Batey

FA: W.Davis, 2013

Mixed trad 9m, 2 Galston Gorge
Open Project - Left Crack

Straightforward hand jam crack to start, then looks like horizontal finger-locking heaven on a sharply pointed stick followed by a sloping top-out. Invert feet at the lip for extra FA kudos.

TradProject Galston Gorge
2013
16 Krystal Lovelong

Up wall on jugs past 1 bolt, 0.5-1 Friend in break, then up on thin moves past 2nd bolt. DRBB on top.

Set: A.Batey

FA: W.Davis, 2013

Mixed trad 9m, 2 Galston Gorge
17 I Hate Pikeys

Straight up slab moving right to finish at anchors.

FA: A.Batey, 2013

Sport 10m, 3 Galston Gorge
18 Ghost Of Galston

Starts 5m right of the corner crack in the centre of main wall. Start below small orange roof and follow the rings to the top. No lower-offs but DBB just back from edge (Large bolt heads only just fit standard brackets so take wires or belay off giant tree further back). Needs another ring or 2

FA: A.Batey, 2013

Sport 15m, 6 Galston Gorge
8 Kindy Corner

The corner ramp crack. Stay out of the left hand crack.

FA: A.Batey, 2013

Trad 8m Galston Gorge
2014
14 Red Light District

Layback, Stemming, a few finger locks and a fist jamb finished off with a cool view from the top. The corner crack system right of IHP. Good gear but a little damp deep in the crack.

FA: ABatey & 2nd C.Sharples, 20 Jul 2014

Trad 11m Galston Gorge
2016
10 Junior Jam

The flared hand crack just left of "Baby's Crack". One serious jamb, then shared finish from the ledge with "Kindy Corner"

FA: Graham Dowden, 8 Oct 2016

Trad 8m Galston Gorge
8 Baby's Crack

The finger crack at far right end of crag. A bit sandy, but not beyond redemption. Shared finish from the ledge with "Kindy Corner"

FA: Graham Dowden, 8 Oct 2016

Trad 8m Galston Gorge
17 Needs Nuts Not Bolts

The crack on the right of the big nose. Straight up the orange corner and crack above, then right out the keyhole between the two giant stones. Protect exit through chockstones with 50-70mm cam and extend runners below to reduce otherwise excessive rope drag.

FA: Graham Dowden, 16 Oct 2016

Trad 8m Galston Gorge
18 Forty Years at Galston

Crack at the left of the obvious roof. Hard start then easier up wall following line of blind crack. Protect with 20-40mm cams in horizontal breaks to top, make sure you get one in at the roof of the cave.

Equalised belay from two small trees, block and single ring. Also temporary screw-in bolt further back from the top.

FA: Graham Dowden, 23 Oct 2016

Trad 15m Galston Gorge
15 Chockstone II, Return of the Cowbell

Easily up twin cracks and exit via counter-intuitive move through twin chockstones directly above as for "Needs Nuts Not Bolts". Solid stoppers and cams all the way with a cowbell or large cam in the final split.

FA: Graham Dowden & Angus M, 23 Oct 2016

Trad 8m Galston Gorge
2017
17 Climb Clean

No chalk. No bolts. No pro. Or a few bad cams and one micro-nubbin if you're bold. Some hard and interesting moves at the bottom and above. Top rope anchor from tree 5m back.

Start: The arete 1m right of Healthy Habits.

FA: Graham Dowden, 6 May 2017

Top rope 11m Galston Gorge
2018
14 Healthy Habits

Avoid the Red Light District by climbing the wall to the right on good edges and breaks. Cams in breaks or corner crack.

FA: Graham Dowden, 27 May 2018

Trad 11m Galston Gorge
2020
21 Boogie Til You Roof

Combination of jamming and jugs through the roof. Old-school hard-core coarse-grained rock needs more cleaning. DRBB on top right of crack.

FFA: Zuni Dierk & Mike Lester, 17 Oct 2020

Trad 10m Galston Gorge
17 Ghost busters

Start as for GOG. Up to roof then left out and up the slab. Lots of good cam placements, and 2 small nuts needed

FA: Timothy Mayer, 7 Nov 2020

Trad 15m Galston Gorge
21 The Traversing Sand Turkey

Something different Start in the corner to the left of KC. Move into horizontal crack and then head left following it around the corner and above the big roof and then head up to top once the crack runs out. Needs a clean and big gear.

FA: Timothy Mayer, 7 Nov 2020

Trad 12m Galston Gorge

Showing all 21 routes.

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