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Routes in Glamorpus Area

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Showing all 23 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
22 Great Expectations

Start in the middle of the pocketed wall 12 m L of GOM. Swing around and on pockets to easy mantle finish.

Set: Tim Mayer, 27 Mar 2016

FA: Tim Mayer, 1 Apr 2016

Sport 8m, 4
23 Toy Story

Up the small steep wall following line of U's. Nice toy climb.

Set: Child & Jones

FA: Child, 30 Jul 2016

Sport 8m, 3
16 Prowl 'n Prejudice

Juggy line on hangers up small overhang.

FA: Child & Jones, 30 Jul 2016

Sport 8m, 3
18 Extended Prejudice Remix

Spectacular but weird, from the 3rd bolt of Prowl and Prejudice go straight up slab and through big roof to lip

Sport 10m, 3
15 R Julian's Finest Hour

Up the black wall using very marginal gear placements.

Start: 8m left of 'Grumpy Old Men' (sounds like the FA of Prowl and Prejudice)

FA: Julian Anderson, 1990

Trad 6m
17 Un Hommage du Craster

Black wall just left of Violet Bumble.

Sport 8m, 3
19 Violet Bumble

Climb blocky corner/arete to top of purple wall, straight to chain anchors on lip of roof above. Or traverse right into the 23 and finish there (a few more moves but harder to clean or toprope). A hold on the top arete has been falling apart and it seems much harder than 19 now.

FA: Michael Law, 1988

FA: Child & Jones, 2016

Sport 12m, 5
23 Grumpy Old Men

Climb the obvious golden flake moving up to easy ground. two bolts to lower off. bouldery.

Start: 4m left of 'Scones of Doom'

FA: Gavin Portier, 2009

Sport 9m, 2
22 Up The Duff

Up line of rings on short wall

Start: 2m left of cave

FA: Paul Duff, 1997

Sport 8m, 3
17 Black hand crack

Up steep hand crack right of UtD to finish on those anchors.

Trad 10m
20 Grind Groin Groove

Up corner by Scones of Doom, onto Bronco and up.

FA: Michael Law, 2020

Sport 15m, 5
23 Scones of Doom

Up through the scoopy slopers to ledge (avoiding spinning RB). Back out and onto head wall (RB) and up to DRB lower-offs.

FA: Mikl Law

Sport 15m, 4
23 Glitoris

Scones too soft? Add a pumpy traverse and cruxy mantle into the fray with the linkup into Omnipox. Notoriously difficult to find, apparently it is near "Are you my pussy".

FA: Adrian, 11 Jul 2017

Sport 15m
24 Omnopox

Through bulges to finish slightly left.

Reputedly tough for the grade, you decide.

Start: 2m left of 'Glamorpus'

Sport 15m, 3
24 Glamorpus

Awesome overhanging route

Start: nice little mantle then awesome climbing

Sport 18m
22 Glamour Mum

Picking the absolute worst of Glamopus and 'Are You My Mother?'. More Mantles thana display home estate. Do the mantle on 'Glamorpus' then traverse right along the ledge to do the mantle on 'Are You My Mother?'.

FA: Anthony Lin, 2009

Sport 12m, 5
23 Are You My Pussy

A fantastic pumpy route. Picks the best bits of each route. Climb 'Are You My Mother?' to 2nd bolt, do the dyno then traverse left and clip the new U bolt then finish up 'Glamorpus'.

FA: Barry Jones, 2009

Sport 19m, 6
25 Are You My Mother?

One for the tall people. Boulder up to bulge, commit for the throw then commit a bit more for the mantle. clip safety bolt and rest forever. tall people grab chipped finish hold, shorties - feet up with a little dead point for finishing hold.

Start: 3m right of 'Glamorpus'

Sport 12m, 4
22 Green Eggs and Ham
Sport 15m
20 Zooloft

Rightwards on slopiness then up nose, all the holds are in the wrong place, it traverse right around arete up high. Desperate but fun climbing

FA: Mike Law, 2011

Sport 12m, 6
9 Lentil Lollipops

Marked LL. A slightly steep start followed by a thin chimney to a solid corner. Take care with pro. Tree belay at top.

FA: Geoffry Heath & James Holbrook, 1980

Trad 15m
24 Thank God It's Friday

As for NIBS but head straight up arete at 3rd RB. The old bolt to the left remains unclimbed

FA: Tim Mayer, 5 Aug 2014

Sport 10m, 4
24 Nights in Black Satin

Start as for LL and head right to big big jug on prow. Up to 3rd bolt on overhanging then head around arete to join the end of Scott's Edge.

FA: Tim Mayer, 2007

Sport 12m, 4

Showing all 23 routes.

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