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Pyrmont
A great location right by the shore lines of Sydney Harbour and only a 15 minute walk from the city center. Just like Kangaroo Point in Brisbane you'll find Pyrmont Wall and Pyrmont Spanish Lessons can be played on at night with the council lighting in place. |
Pyrmont Wall
Hundreds of meters of sandstone wall, 20 mins walk from the city, car parking right next to the climbs, lit at night, wheelchair access (might be useful when leaving) |
Pyrmont Wall |
Pyrmont Spanish Lessons
Hola boulderers! Whoever said Spanish lessons and bouldering can't be combined was wrong! An amazing patch of rock offering some fun but testing problems. Be it traversing, lowballing or a touch of highball, this place can offer you hours of entertainment with great views and some grassy landings. |
Pyrmont Wall Pyrmont Spanish Lessons |
V2
★ Me Encanta Escalar!
Start as for Chica Caliente but head straight up past the sloping ledge and trend right. Tap out at the small incut then downclimb for the full 8 meters. |
V2
Chica Caliente
Start at the far left (just right of the tap), follow the iron stone ledge to the double expansion bolts then make your way up to the second flake. To get your monies worth out of Chica Caliente, down climb it all the way to make the 14 meters.The pocket midway along the traverse is out of bounds. |
V2
Buenos Dias
Start as for Chica Caliente and finish at the double expansion bolts. |
V3
★ Pau Ha Convertido!
Start as for Me Encanta Escalar! and continue onto Perfecto. Continue past Perfecto's finish and touch your right shoe on the hand rail. Expect a bit of pump so rest when you can! |
V2
★ Soy Una Escaladora Clasica
Start a few meters to the left of the painted 50, just before the large incut. shoot up and tap out at the ledge half way up the drill hole. Downclimb for the full 10 meters. |
V1
★ La Guapa
Start to the left of the painted 50. Make your way up to the bottom of the drill hole and traverse right. Down climb past the double expansion bolts for the full 12 meters. |
V1
¿Dónde está el baño?
Start at painted 50 and head straight up. Some interesting footwork into the decent inset left hand and then up to the good ledge to finish. |
V1
★ El Guapo
Start at the pocket to the right of the painted 50. Make your way up to the ledge 2.5 meters above the pocket and down climb for the full 10 meters. Pocket is out of bounds for feet and hands. |
V2
★ Magnifico
Start at the elongated water streak between the pocket and double expansion bolts. Head up past the evident drill hole to tap out at the ledge above it. Down climb it for the full 12 meters. |
V1
El Jefe
Starting between the painted 55 and the double expansion bolts, make your way up to the second flake then downclimb for the full 12 meters. |
V0
Sin Embargo
Start under the slight overhang to the left of the painted 55. Find the hidden undercling to make it fun and tap out at the iron stone ledge a meter or so above. |
V2
Como Estas?
Start at the painted 55. Head on up to the prominent ledge and tap out here. Down climb for the full 12 meters. |
V2
Una Vez Que Haces Pop, Ya No Hay Stop!
With the light pole to your right, start beneath, head up and tap out at the bent rod. Hard to down climb so the exit is all in the name of the problem...once you pop you can't stop...get your crash pad ready and if you're wearing your chalk bag may I suggest you close it. |
V2
★ Perfecto
Start as for Un Café Con Leche Por Favor and continue past the fig tree. Continue past the painted 55 and finish as for El Jefe. |
V2
Un Café Con Leche Por Favor
A problem that feels as long as the name. Start near the stairs opposite the light pole. Make your way around the corner and up the left side of the fig tree. Touch the ledge found about a meter above the fig and then downclimb to get the full 15 meters. |
V1
Se Pronuncia Daabiid
Start right of the light pole and beneath the square incut. Tap out at the base of the incut. |
V2
★ Dedos En Las Fisuras Es Igual A Diversion
Start where the ironstone meets the crack. Go up making good use of the crack. Tap out on the bent iron rod. Down climb for the full 4 meters. |
Pyrmont Wall |
Giba Wall
An old harbour side quarry from ye olden days. Not the best rock around but pretty good if you're in need of getting your chalked up hands on some rock for some training before your next trip. Has a great view across the harbour to the Bridge, and west to the sunset. BBQs and the great boardwalk may tempt those in need of relaxation. |
Pyrmont Wall Giba Wall |
17
Indian Root
Starting off either side of the arete, follow the corner to the top. A little sandy due to the lack of traffic but for what it's worth it's quite a good climb. |
V1
★ The Quarterdeck
Traverse the 45m wall to the arete, keeping feet about 6 inches off the ground. Start is a bit harder due to slim toe holds. Gets easier once there is a line for your toes to follow. |
V0
★ Walk the plank
Traverse along the prominent ledge 1.5m off the ground. For extra difficulty, avoid horizontals holds and use only drilled edges, side-pulls, up and down holes. |
V1
I definitely had a head full of sand like I'd been at the beach
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/ |
V1
This is my Domain
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/ |
V1
★ Arvo CREw climb
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/ |
V1
★ Sandy Price Finder
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/ |
V4
★★ La Casa Muda
Start as for The Quarterdeck (low traverse) but continue around the corner and just keep going until you can touch your right foot on the handrail (as for Pau Ha Convertido). |
Pyrmont Wall |
Jones Bay Wall
Opposite Jones Bay |
Pyrmont Wall Jones Bay Wall |
V4
★ What'd Ya Call Me!?
Start on low crimps, onto rail then mantle. Straight up using obvious presses, then top on sandy ledge |
V5
★ Side Gig
Start with both hands on the spotty sidepull. Work your way up to the big pinch in the middle. Mantle up on to the ledge and work your way up to the final rail. |
V4
★★ Godrilla!
Start on sandy side-pull and dyno up to ledge, move right and get a foot up so that you can reach the red sandy side pull, crimpy thing. Mantle up, reach to the nice ledge and finish at the same jug as "Smokey Paprika". |
V2
★ Wrap up
Found to the left of the rusty crack. Sit start on the lowest rail. Reach up for the jug then climb or dyno up to the juggy rail. |
V3/4
★ Smokey Paprika
Standing start ledge and once you get to the first juggy rail where "Wrap Up" finishes, get fingers in the sandy side pull above. Mantle onto rail, reach for nice left ledge and finish on next juggy rail above. Can be made harder with sit start (same as "Wrap up") |
V5
★★ The Rusty Crack
Find the rusty crack. Sit start on the good juggy rail to the right of the rusty crack. Work your way towards and up the rusty crack. Finish on the rail at the top of the rusty crack. Rusty crack Note: the rusty crack is quite flaky. Stay off the parts that are likely to break. |
V4
★★ Tango
Stand start with double under-cling to the right of The Rusty Crack. Gaston with the left and grab a small side pull on the right. Get a foot up and rock over into a high left in the vertical drill. The top is at the ledge above. |
V3
★ Runoff
Found to the left of the big tree. Sit start on the low rail. Work your way up to the big sandy pinch and finish on the obvious jug. |
V3
★★ Coolabah
Start with your left hand above the pocket hole and your right hand on the low sidepull. Work your way up and finish on the blobby slope. |
V5
★★ Torque about it
Start with one hand in each of the vertical drill holes. Work your way up and to the left to the two high pinches. Finish on the big sloper. |
V5
★ Drill Sergeant
Found to the right of Torque About it. Start on the two good slanted jugs. Work your way left and up. Finish on the crimp above the big vertical drill hole. |
V5
★★ The Long Reach
Start on the same holds as Drill Sergeant. Work your way right and up. Finish on the crimpy rail. |
V6
★ Plant Biased
Start matched on the juggy sidepull, easy traverse left towards the weird plant (now disappeared). Move up through sidepulls and underclings, with a crimpy pinch available out right. Figure out a way to gain the good upper sidepull in the drillhole, then difficult step up to finish matched on the ledge. |
V5/6
★★ Halliburton
Up the drillhole jugs to a committing finish |
V5
★ Do it like Wolfie
Dyno 1.4m from one drill hole to the next. That's it. Dyno grade's a guess, static at V2-3. |
V3
★ Do it like Rich
Dyno 1.1m from lower drill hole to the next and finish in 3rd hole. Dyno grade's a guess, static at V2. |
V1
★ The Endeavour
Traverse right along break from tree fern to wall. Several fathoms of interest before grounding. |
V1
★ Seaworthy Pocket Cruiser
Start with left hand above painted 5. Find your sea legs as you climb through generous break to crimpy break above. Traverse to pocket and then cruise up to second pocket to finish. |
Root Wall
Old-fashioned Pyrmont: a short wall of varying quality rock surrounded by blocks hewn from the same sandstone. |
Root Wall |
V0
Stone Wall
Climb the block wall 1m left of the end of the cliff. |
V0
Routed
Start 0.5m R of the block wall. Pull pocket shared with fig root and fork fern (Psilotum) without dislodging either, then up to sandy edge. |
V1
★ Undercling
Drilled pocket, big double-handed undercling, then hand in deep square hole in cheese below blocks. Mind the rats! |
V0
Gritty Slopes
Just left of 'Slot' via gritty slopes |
V0
Slot
Straight up to gap between blocks at top via undercling. |
V0
★ Mortice
Ascend via slot chiseled in lowest course of blocks. |
V0
Stumped Up
Straight up from standing on stump. |
V0
Shoot from the Stump
Right end of cliff just right of stump, up to the protruding blocks. |
V0-
Broken Wall
Easily up the broken stone wall. |
V1
Travis
Traverse length of wall between blocks with feet under 1m in obvious break and hands at about 2m. |
Pyrmont Spider Pig Boulder
A small boulder offering some limited overhang problems inside a cave. Please be mindful of the neighbors to the left (facing) of the boulder as it can look straight into their small, yet private courtyard. The boulder is also surrounded by a landscaped garden so show all due respect to it. Keep the noise to a minimum so good relations are maintained between the residents and the climbing community. This boulder is only worth visiting if you're a strandard local who wants a fun overhanging work out. Pyrmont Spider Pig Boulder needs a little more traffic to eliminate the remaining choss. Once cleaned up a bit it'll offer some good clean fun. |
Pyrmont Spider Pig Boulder |
V1
Spider Pig
Get in the cave and start at the far right. Feet low with your right hand out of the cave. Make your way up to the obvious pocket at the top. Needs a dusting in the pocket. Be careful not to fall on the rail beneath, could hurt a bit if you land on it. |
V1
He's Not Spider Pig Anymore, He's Harry Plopper
Start as for Spider Pig and make your way left to the slab on the ground. |
V5
★★ OMG An Upside Down Climb (Project)
Same as for Perfect Fit but when you get to the start of the flake reach out left and grab a small hold and then pop up to the big hole matching hands and continue on to the left possibly topping out through the crack (This needs cleaning). |
V4
★ Perfect Fit
Start the same for He's Not Spider Pig Anymore, He's Harry Plopper and come out under the overhang. Move along and finish on the flake going out. |
V4
★ Perfect Fit RH Variant
Same start as for Perfect Fit but once in the second cave head striaght up using 3 horizontal cracks. Finish at the big bolt. |
Pyrmont Slab
A solid piece of sandstone on the fringes of Pyrmont. Ensure you show all due respect when climbing here as it will look straight into the neighbouring apartments windows. Your send could end up with a visit from Police. This crag is also located in a council garden so please show all due respect if climbing here to the local fauna. |
Pyrmont Slab |
22
Suicide
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/ |
21
Suicide Variant
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/ |
21
Motorbicycle
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/ |
V2
★ Fixed Gear
Problem starts at a long 3.5m drilled hole/shaft about 10m left of the stairs. Standing start finish on the big jug about 40cm above the top of the shaft. Use other holds too. |
Carmichael Park
There are a couple of worthwhile problems here, as well as loads of easy V0/V1s here that haven't been listed. Beware heavy erosion and overgrown top outs. |
Carmichael Park |
The Main Drag
On the bottom level at the east end of the park. Cross through a gravel area with some benches to reach it. |
V5
★ Project 2
Start with both hands on the ledge/rail. Move diagonally left to reach the top there. Much harder if you are short. This bit of rock is really solid and free from choss. It also has a 20 degree overhang. |
V6
★ Project 1
Start with both hands on the ledge/rail. Move straight up. The next hold is 1.4 m away. Slopey undercling is in. V5 if tall and V6+ if you have to dyno. This bit of rock is really solid and free from choss. It also has a 20 degree overhang. |
V3
Nervous
Start crouched with hands either side of the bulge. Move up to the sloper then using the crack, stretch for the top. Traverse to the left and top out for V3. V4 or more if you top out without traversing. |
V5
Dirty
Start as for Nervous, traverse right on the blank wall. 3 m past the arête, move up with a big reach to the chipped square that once held a timber beam. Top out onto the ledge above the chipped-out rectangle and downclimb. |
V2
★ Charcoal
Start at the hole low on the wall filled with charcoal. Stand start with foot in this hole and finish the climb as for Dirty. Top out onto the ledge above the chipped square and downclimb. |
V2
★★ Mossie Mountain
Start with both hands on the arête which juts out, and find some delicate footholds. Juggy top of the arête is not in for the starting holds, but you can use it after establishing. Throw out left, then up through the overhanging arête and the chipped-out rectangle. Top out onto the ledge above the chipped square and downclimb. Richard Trethewy no-top out beta. |
V0
★ JR. NEST
Start on the obvious good holds. Straight up. Top out on the narrow ledge if you're feeling brave. |
Bike Ramp boulder
These are located on the side of the bike ramp. |
V3
★ Side Track
Sit start with both hands on the small slopey arête. Move up and to the right, transferring to the other arête, then top out for full tick. Hard to get back down from. |
V3
★ Track Side
Same as for Side Track, but instead of going for the top, traverse 1 m right on the face and top out there. |
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