Routes in Joll's Bridge

The crack 3m L of IRBF. Up crack to alcove at 4m. Continue straight up past 3 bolt runners (need brackets) onto a big ledge and another bolt. Move up into short corner then slightly R to finish in small cave. Tree belay.

Starts as for TT and blast up corner to top. Anchors in back of cave.

Desperate final traverse. Start 2m L of BJ.

1. Reachy boulder moves to start and up wall passing BR to tree belay on second ledge next to orange wall.

2. Up corner behind tree to hairy traverse off R to finish.

A gripping little variant finish to WBF. Start on first belay ledge of WBF, slip on up orange wall passing BR and cams. Clip BR on lip and mantle up, out and over like a tuna.

As the name implies, except maybe sharper. The obvious wide crack splitting the wall before Crack'n Up Wall. Straight up crack and veer L and up wall to top.

possibly the same route as Hang Five & Paul Powell.

Start in cave about 5m to the right of the other unknown climb. This is tagged and believe to be abandoned project as confirmed by Paul. Equipped with ring bolts and has solid rock, but you will need to climb mid 30s to have a chance

Start 3m L of IAH. Some thin reachy slab work. Up past big cam to BR. Continue up slab to ledge and straight to top. Will be quite nice if retrobolted.

Tim's Project. Start 3m left of Rivers Edge. Two RBs for the hard moves and then easy finish on trad gear. Only a few cams needed.

5m L of THC is an attractive vertical crack. Up this with wires and cams for 8mts before your first ring bolt. Crux. up to horizontal break ( a cam if you are worried) tending L to another ring bolt. Continue L to a short crack system (another cam or wire) then straight up passing two more rings. Double ring bolt anchor. rebolted 2016

Short but very sweet. Start as for TDW but this one takes a line off L. Small cams and wires to cave. Swing up and around L end of cave to finish.

8m L of UC at broken orange wall beneath cave. More sand than Bondi (at least at the start). Up edge to horizontal edge, move right to clean rock and mantel. Good rock begins. Up corner and flake system behind tree to top. Belay off tree located up the hill a bit.

Nice slabby arete. Start 1m L of IWBTT, moving up through some balance moves into blank corner (2 BR's) to ledge, then blunt arete to top #2 Cam and #0.5 Cam. Start just to R of undercut section then up trending left past 2BR. Up corner then up arete to ledge. Needs retrobolt and anchors.

The crack behind two blackboy bushes 7m L of Crack'n Up. Climb the crack up to bolt runner and move R to climb another short crack. Continue straight up passing a bolt to a large ledge. Climb the corner crack and move R onto the face with a bolt to protect. Tree belay. 3 bolts (need brackets), cams, wires.

Just an other very pleasant outing.. Start as for PSLD up beginning of corner for a couple of moves (wires and #1.5 cam) then slip out R onto face passing BR on your way to crack (# 2 & 3.5 cam), continue to pop out R (# 1 cam) for final moves.

4m L of B. Pump start - slab finish. Up to first BR, then snap for the next couple of jugs and bomb proof #3 or #2.5 friend placement. On to second BR on lip then up slab (3rd and final BR) to belay tree atop block.

The furthest R of the three little climbs. One high bolt to clip then small friends in horizontal break at 4m. Top is loose and requires care. Belay off the concrete bollard.

The corner 5m L of Teddy. Up R facing corner past 2 bolts and a #3 cam to an alcove. Pull through centre of roof onto another ledge next to small but solid angophora (sling). Straight up wall past another 3 bolt runners and cams.

A deceptive little line but good. Start as for SOS follow corner with adequate pro to finish on R side of line on block above curving crack

8m L of tBUtS. The bottom and the very top gives this one its grade. Up flake veering right slightly to get on top of big block (good #0.75 friend in horizontal). Another move or two gets you to some more holes and a bomber #1.5 friend placement. Balance your way up a bit left to the first BR (crux). Cruise up easy slab (BR) to final stiff moves (BR). Grunt over the little roof to finish at good belay tree.

2m L of Moe is a left-facing weakness on steep coloured rock. One bolt and a #3 Cam in horizontal break at 6m.

Starts up slab 6m L of PIAW on a terrace about 10m up. Great line pushing through the red centre. Look out for small furry friends. Up the slab to ledge then up orange wall to more gear (cams and nuts) to small ledge to finish. Exit with care off R.

At lefthand side of base. Pleasant climbing. Up the middle of the slab with adequate pro.

Beautiful rock. Up an obvious overhanging corner. A bolt to start, then a fixed hanger and if you are still worried a #3 cam will soothe the nerves.

Hard moves up a vertical face. A couple of bolts and fixed hangers.

Very much the same as NH, but keeping to the left hand edge of the wall, through overlap and onto top. Once again not bad pro.

Starts at the L end of the large overhang. 10m L of HTT. Locate the bolt belay situated up on a ledge in the back of the overhang. Traverse L past 2 bolts then pull through the roof up into a crack on the wall which takes you to the topp. 6 bolts and 2 cams.

Tackles the thin wall L of FHS. Hard to get off ground followed by some dicey hold above horizontal break. Continue straight up past easier country using mixed gear and belay from tree.

The superb flake 5m L of Ringtail. Start at base of corner below ringtail. It'll scare you but worth the adventure. Cams and nuts for protection. Finishes atop the precarious block at a belay/rap station.

Beautiful wall climbing up great rock. Starts up short corner 10m L of the large overhang. Up to break on wall next to ferny ledge, through overlap to horizontal #1.5 & #2 cams. Out an up to bolt via ramp the straight to finish on L side of block. Small cam near top.

Up the shallow corner to a bolt, then up the wall/slab passing 2 fixed runners. Chain belay.

A bit desperate. Starts as for 666 then move L at 3m into the seam. Full set of cams and #4 rock. Belay station as for 666.

Fine face work on ironstone blades. Start as for TT, up corner through small overlap then slightly L to top passing 2 BR's and a #2 cam.

The vertical crack 4m L of HOR. Up the crack for 10m, then move up R to a ledge and pad it up past a bolt. Rack of cams and nuts. Shares chain belay with HOR.

4m left of TS. An easing slab. Pad up past BR, #1.5 friend and small wires. Tree belay.

The last climb on Crack'n up Wall. 6 U-bolts plus a few medium cams will bring you safely to a rap anchor.

Up the easy wall passing 2 U-bolts, then and awkward move onto a sloping ledge. Up the orange stain, #1 & 2 cams in the middle then two rings to the top. Belay from the tree.

The arete. Mixed gear with 2 bolts at the top.

Cams and wires. The diagonal seam/weakness 1.5m L of FOW. Trend L up cracks to finish at L end of cave. Belay in back of cave. Rap off rings.

Not all things get hard, but some do!. Start as for Phvvvit at the base of the corner, throw a large nut into the crack on the wall and away you go. Blast up the middle of the wall passing #3 cam to a bolt runner then to a crack and #4 cam. Hang out to the R, grab the arete and up this to small ledge passing 2 bolt runners to the top.

Bill and Ben had to do a lot of bucket and spade work to unearth this class line. Start under corner up off the end of the main wall. Straight up this corner to small roof then traverse out R with air and care of hollow sounding flake. Up to small stance. Now up and out L to top through some loose country.

This and the following climbs start 10m off the ground on a large terrace at the base of a vertical wall of excellent rock. O starts on a ledge below R end of the Sports wall Scramble up gully and out R onto ledge below steep wall.

1. 19m (14) Straight up wall to below roof, escape L, up and around R to belay on big ledge.

2. 6m up small corner to top.

The corner/arete 3m L of Oysterland.

1. Back at ground level a convenient bit of landscaping avoids getting your feet wet. (This has been overgrown the last few years unless someone has cleaned it up). Two bolts up a L facing corner leads the way to a large bridge of rock. Mount this and gently walk L. Easily up L side of the short orange wall (bolt), onto the big (wet) ledge. Double bolt belay.

2. (aid if wet) Onto white block (good cam placements just above), and up into corner until you are forced R onto and around the arete. Chain belay in alcove. 6 bolts and a rack of friends.

Just bloody great. Start 5m L of Phvvvit and slink up the black wall till you hit the orange. Then step R a metre or so and up to small roof (cams and wires thru this section) Grab a magic undercling, clip the fixed hanger and head up final wall passing a #4 cam, bolt runner and #2 cam to the top.

Start as for Triangle (below) then up arete. Cams protect near top.

Variant 2nd pitch for TBL. From Double bolt belay, move R under roof with bomber friends, then up face past a U bolt. Cams protect the remainder of the climb. Chain belay as for TBL.

Hidden away and almost missed, its 25m up and over the rise L of LLL. Crimp your way up compact wall on user friendly holds (not), passing 2 bolt runners to horizontal break (#3 cam). Now up to hold and over bulge, bolt runner on high crimps.

The main break in the roof. The Coast's answer to Stranger's EIiminate. Take a full rack of friends plus some wires.

1. (24) 3 U bolts and a #3 friend bring you to a double BB anchor out left on a ledge.

2. (22) Up into corner to get good rock and friend placements. Over the small bulge past 2 U bolts and it gets slabby until you reach a big ledge. Natural belay (wires and friends).

3. (22) Move 5m right along the ledge, then up final steep section to find natural belay anchors in cave.

Start at the far R end of sport wall at the corner with black right hand wall. Up black wall then left into corner at top.

10m left of TAC. Up the rib/flake to the roof, passing 3 U bolts and an expansion bolt originally used for aid. Hard moves through the roof (bomber #1.5 and #2 friends). 2 more U bolts bring you to a rap anchor.

Up past BR through juggy terrain. Mantel onto small ledge then up over roof before first U-bolt. Finish up headwall past another U-bolt and cam placement.

Start: 2m left of the 'Triangle' corner.

Mixed gear with old carrots and a couple of cams #0.5 - 1 to get you to the top.

Up the juggy wall to right side of jutting block on ledge. Uneasy moves onto slab using block then exit left.

Start: As for 'Feelin Kinda Sporty'

Chalk up the trotters and oink. Start up the crack L of Sister Moon. Hex's or largish cams required.

Pump up those beginners. Starts 2m L of Wilde Thing. Reach your way up through the blocks round top and up passing tree to top.

2m L of MLJ. 2 bolts and cams.

Start 2m right of HGSA at small crack. Up past 3 BRs to RB, step slightly left then past 2nd RB to double bolt belay (weasel exit on right side of RB about 19)

Straight up passing 2 rusty bolts and cams to ledge.

Start: On the wall at the right hand side of the cave.

Mixed gear - hex bolts and a couple of cams. Has not been retro-bolted. Yet another gem that does not let up till you haul through the final bulge. Start 3m L of King Kong. Boulder up past friend to bolt runner, grunt over bulge up to orange wall. Finger your way through this to overhang and friend #2 placement. Thin moves and a goose step (bolt) surmount the orange face before a juggy overhanging finish (FH). Two bolts on block at top for anchor. Needs bolt plates and cams.

1. Start 2m RIGHT of ringbolts (VD) at short crack and go left into cave to join VD for a few rings before heading back right to belay on pedestal ( finger and hand size cams needed).

2. Traverse way right past 2 RBs and then up RBs and thread to tree.

3. To top. It is 30 m to ground

Corner/crack 3m L of TSW.

1. Start as for HIL (faded initials near short crack into cave).

2. After pedestal belay traverse 2m right (ie not as far as HIL) and then up hanging corner (crux). More gear needed then bolts to DRB anchor. Care required with block just before top. 27m to ground

Initialled BLSB. Up smooth orange rock past carrot to traverse right then up flake. Mostly trad. Traverse left at top to tree. Best led with double ropes or long slings. Although graded 19 it can seem quite difficult if this is your limit

You should always leave a little something for the end. Kick off as for TLE, pull up over block and move L to crack. #1.5 cam and then #3.5 cam. Slip around the L again to a BR, straight up from this passing a #1 cam & BR to the top on R side of the tree on ledge.

Start at shallow corner just left of Texas. Up to under roof then head left onto ledge and climb short corner to finish.

Up BS till you hit the first BR, now slip out to the L across a little slab, BR, and up corner. # 0.5 cam.

3m L of CC. The short wall with the undercut start. One BR, U-bolt and a #1.5 cam. Belay off tree.

Up the corner. Damn shame it is not a bit longer. Start 30m L of BS just past the end of the cave.

The trad corner, often dirty, now has lower offs

The short corner capped by a roof 2m L of Frontline. One BR plus a U-bolt and a #2.5 cam. Awkward belay from the tree.

This route commences on the far left end of the sports wall just beyond the cave and detached monolith. Climb the wall through 5 carrots just left of the cave, tricky move past crux. Mixed gear above and tree to belay.

Above the step-up. Nice warm up to Basement Wall. Climb steepening slab on edge of cave to small corner, clip BR and finish it off.

Start left of block (initialled) and mantle moves to ledge and finger crack. Hand traverse left under roof then tricky moves to second roof and back onto arete into flared hand crack. Beware of horn at top. Double ropes to lead best. DRBs at top.

Start as for BLS. At the horizontal break at 3/4 height, traverse left along Cam break to join CBC and up via FH.

A plus for the Box, steep slab work. Start 3m L of Square over little bulge and up fine edged section passing 2 BR's, trend slightly R through horizontals, cams to small vertical crack and on to top. Tree belay.

10m L of FBF. A little grubby in the middle, but still worth the effort. Up 4m to #1 friend. Over small overlap (#4 friend) then on to a perfect #3.5 friend hole. Continue up and right to the base of vertical crack (#0.75 friend) and up this (wires). Move L 1m to swing out to clip BR and finish up thin slab moves. Belay/rap anchor at stance.

Steeper sharper neighbour. Step on 2mts L of HCS, up edges passing 2 BR's and on, keep to the R of jutting block on the way to the top. Cams useful. Belay as for HCS.

4m L of D9L. Great moves on great rock. Thin climbing for 4m to first pro (#2 friend). Onward passing small pro (#0.5, #0.75 friends) just under lip of small black wall. Up this (2 BRs) and continue up small flake (small wires) to horizontal (#3 friend) and swing up right to top. Belay/rap anchor on stance.

The arete at the end of the buttress, just before THC. 2 bolts and a small cam on the way up. A few more smaller cams for the belay.

5m L of HBL next to grass tree. Kick in the end of this one. Up wall with pockets (range of friends) to horn (sling this). On to small ledge (#0.75 friend), now some fingery moves up clean orange rock passing 2 BRs to top. Belay/rap anchor on stance.

Starts 2m L of the chimney. Sequency moves on a vertical wall. Up to a flake at 5m then slap up to a good ledge. Continue up past easier ground to the cave. Bolt belay needs brackets. Four fixed hangers and a # 1.5 cam.

Full rack of cams plus two U-bolts.

Up corner on new RBs. Carrots and cams for the rest of the route straight up corner through chossy roof. Despite stars in the original guide this route is pretty average.

Finishes off what THC started. From the big scoop at the 4th hanger, climb leftwards past 2 more fixed hangers up to double U bolt belay.

Starts 10m L of SOAG. Up blunt arete with some nice moves and small cams to ledge. Now up the corner to exit off R at top (flakey finish).

12m L of CS. A nice bouldery pocketed start. Up 4m to first pro (#1, #2 friends). Grunt through bulge then up easier wall with wide range of friends and a medium hex. Good climbing finishes at tree (clean rap from here).

Start as for MITS, but at the 3rd bolts head straight up over the nightmare mantle that MITS avoids, and then easy left and up on jugs.

Starts 5m right of The Time Machine. Nice easy warmup route with a nice selection of crimps and pockets.

The first route you come to, on the initial decent into Ten Pin Gully access. Cruisy warm up. While technically not part of The Sports wall, it is on the some cliff line. Start easily on the block half way down the ramp.

The first route you come to, on the initial decent into Ten Pin Gully access. Cruisy warm up. While technically not part of The Sports wall, it is on the some cliff line. Start easily on the block half way down the ramp.

Starts off the same terrace as previous route. Goes up the lovely orange wall a few metres L of BSMBP. The crux is the headwall above. If you do not wish to run it out after the third bolt a #1 or #2 cam will add courage. Rap anchor. Rebolted in 2015. 12 rings. The original route was intended to follow the hex bolts but it was never done. The Rings take the line of least resistance. Can appear a little run out so take a few mid size cams to sooth the nerves. A lower pitch has been added with four rings (easy # 16)

Left of slot opening at grey streak. Nice moves on compact grey streak. Straight up streak (2 BRs) to bolt belay 3m back on block.

0.5m left of GK. Thin just thin, good though! Trend left up black rock on massive edges (3 BRs). Tree belay.

Megaclassic through steep juggy ground. Back to ground level, about 20m L of 666 The Beast 66, on the left wall of a small corner. Steep, airy and scary. Retrobolted 2020 (from 9 carrots to 19 Ubolts including the 2 sets of anchors). Can be done in one pitch with a sling extender or so.

1. 10m (16) Up thin crack to Ubolt belay (3 bolts)

2. 25m (20) Crux at the bottom. Trending R and up overhung arete and wall above. Lower off, or Ubolt belay over top (10 bolts)

Desperate. The short black wall L of cornered with the bucketed centre. 3 ring bolts and rap anchors. 3rd clip difficult.

Short wall with three bolts. Starts off ledge 1m L of PMMHH. Straight up wall past some dubious rock to the cave. Nice mantle to finish. Belay in back of cave. Rap off.

Starts 2m L of BD. The first of two climbs with 3 ring bolts, that share a common finish up the smooth slab to a Double Bolt Belay.

5m L of Rock 'n Robyn. Starts off the large block on the R end of the Big White Roof. Move up to roof flake and out R along flake heading for the overhanging arete.

1.5m L of BF. The little corner then the same as for BF.

Starts as for Oysterland 1st pitch. 2nd Pitch - clip 1st ring of Oysterland the move L to the arete. Onto face and straight up using cams to protect.