Routes as trad in Fatman Buttress

The chimney R of Thin Fiend pinnacle

On the riverside face of the lower pinnacle (out of sight from main areas). 3 FH’s + medium to large cams. Easiest to rap to base of route via the downstream side (passing below Thin Fiend) to locate the DBB. Alternatively, a short 5m rap (veering slightly downstream) is possible from the DBB at the base of The Prow. Rap bolts located on top of pinnacle.

The corner, crack, chimney thing. DBB

Crack and face where The Prow pinnacle meets the downstream cliff. Straight up out of the hole, finishing at DBB.

Up slanting pillar. FH to protect initial cruxy moves - then easier terrain to top. Take a long sling for up high to reach DBB set way back at the top of route. The old carrot bolts are from a contrived route further R and are considered “off-route” but can still be clipped (reachy) if the trad placements really don’t take your fancy.

The line where The Prow pinnacle meets the upstream cliff.

Curving line R of GOWTN corner. Stick clip first bolt (or place some small cams in the horizontal break), into cruxy moves laying/compressing off L arete to get established on face. Continue slightly R up slab to finish. Avoid cranking outwards on vertical pillar at base of route as it does seem to wobble. DBB

RH variant start for Little Boy. Up double aretes, linking in with previous climb at its 3rd bolt (avoid bridging off RH blocks for the full value). Straight up slab to finish. Take some large cams for the start. DBB

Pillar with 3 eye bolts. Take some wires for the top crack. DBB

The chimney R of bolted pinnacle

Fixed hangers on last major pillar on the R. Start from down low (using block), then L from ledge. DBB

crack to arete via a couple of bolts and spikes.

Right of fear and frothing from the same ledge

Further upstream, starting on a ledge about two meters above the water. Finger crack to roof and hand crack. A nice looking route