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Lowdina |
12 Scharnhorst |
16 Blackheads and Beauty Spots |
16 Drugs on Sunday |
24 ★★ Better Get A Bucket |
20 ★★★ The Spastic Acrobat |
10 Seagull |
18
★★ Finger Lichen Super Crew
Recommended crack beauty when in the area. Start in the groove as for TTAH. Take the left trending crack that gets harder and smaller with every move. Finish with hard moves up the finger crack to reach the ledge on top. Carefully scramble down the gully on the left |
13
★★ Towards The A Horizon
Up the offwidth. Take a #4 and #5 |
★★ Lord Of The Flake
Open Project for the bold and reckless. Needs further inspection of the flake whether it will stay in place. Start with the finger crack below the roof, reach to the hold on the edge of the roof, Continue up the groove and layback the big flake to the ledge. Continue up the finger crack on the face above |
16
★ Lord Cornflake
If the LOTF is too scary for you this is your alternative to get to the top. Watch out for the loose flakes half way up |
11
Vulpecula
Up nose of the downhill buttress, being careful of loose flakes. Scramble to top and around back or carefully down-climb the side. |
16
★ Conjunctivitis
Up wide crack left of Psoriasis, then trend into hand crack left of prow. Traverse left into Psoriasis and finish up this. |
17
★★ Psoriasis
Up the groove, follow the hand-crack and then trend right to the cracks above to DBB. Good pro. |
23 R
★★ Punks and Lepers
Follow crack to horizontal break. Up face (runout) to RP nest, then follow seam / cracks to DBB. |
22
★★ Scaredy Cat
Follow crack to pedestal, then leftwards to DBB. Take RPs and microcams. |
14
Nerve Block
Up crack to block (not going anywhere). Up crack/groove to bollard belay. Walk-off around back (grade 2). |
15
Pocket Rocket
Up Nerve Block to horizontal, then trend right to climb thin crack which takes RPs and microcams. Belay and descent as for Nerve Block. |
16
Torque Arm
Up crack on buttress left of the Ape Chimney. Around small rooflet on right and then to top following the crack system. Scramble off the back of buttress. |
10
Ape
The loose and dirty chimney on buttress left of Anzac Day. |
16
★★ Dia De Los Muertos
The gaping offwidth/ chimney just left of Tongerlongeter day. Big gear is helpful but not necessary |
19 R
★★ Tongerlongeter day
climb the arête left of ANZAC day (crux and bold) to reach a crucial 0.5 (purple BD) cam at 5m height. keep your fear controlled until you reach the ledge to step right into the dihedral below the roof as for AD. Continue left after this, pull very lightly on the loose block to not threaten people below and continue on the arête until reaching the DBB of AD. Pre-placing the purple cam when abseiling reduces the risk tremendously. |
18
★★ Anzac Day
Up slab using the crack on the right to first roof, hand traverse to left to crack-line. Up crack to second roof and past this on the right. Follow wall and cracks above to DBB. |
15
Lejand
Crack-line and face right of Anzac Day. DBB shared with Anzac Day. |
18
★★ Mick Goes to Moonah
Up easy face from ledge to stance below the groove. Place RPs and then follow groove up face to top and DBB. Micro-cams useful. |
17
★★ Chook Fever
Follow the fist crack to top, left around arete and up to DBB. |
16
★ Miss Rightboy
The short face just right of Chook Fever, finishing up the fist-crack. |
15
★ Jairoen
Take the same start as BIB and traverse left under the roof. continue delicately up (crux) to gain good jams. Either follow to the top or wander with nice exposed moves to the left to sling the big block or gain the DBB of Chook Fever |
18
★ Boys in Bikinis
Bridge up corner left of buttress, layback flakes on LHS of buttress then trend right past bolt, then up face via 4 m runout at top to DBB. |
22
★ What Bunny Likes Best
Up face / arete to DBB past FH. |
15
Jot Jot Splat
Hand to off-width crack in corner. DBB at top. |
13
★ Casuarina Crack
Follow the easy, gentle angled hand crack. Rap-off trees at top. |
17
★ Cruxy Demons
Climb up to the base of the steep orange corner via the slab (be wary of the suspect flakes) and gully to the right. Some nice moves up to the roof let then a grovel leftward to finish up CC. RP's useful. |
19
★ Demon Child
Take the direct line up the slab into the dihedral. Swing over the rooflet to a jug. Hollow flakes lead to a RP seam which terminates at the tree. |
19 ★ Delete me 1 |
19 ★ Delete me 2 |
8 ★★ Finn |
10
★★ Bumbly
Start on left side of buttress, trend right around it and then follow crack to top of Tim's excuses for DBB. Half-ropes useful. |
19
★★ Tim's Excuses
Follow thin crack to DBB. |
13
Cromlech
The loose and awkward chimney. |
11
★★ Tormentil
The smooth arching corner crack. Nice route for a beginner. Big gear not needed. |
15 R
★ Humber
The face right of Tormentil. Run-out with a critical RP placement. |
17
Garage Sale
Line up cracks / face just right of the singular overhanging buttress. |
11 R
Little Black Balls
Takes the face up the RHS of the buttress. |
21
★★ Maggot On A Brick
The short slab with two bolts, left and uphill of Rogering the Rock. |
20 The Naughty Bottom Burp |
21
★ Rogering the Rock
Up orange face to carrot bolt, through roof on left and up face above to DBB. |
18
★ Daytime Delinquents
Up finger crack in corner (careful of some hollow sounding rock), traverse left to roof. Through roof above to the right then up thin crack (small wires and cams). |
22
★★★ Little Squeaky Feet
The thin, overhanging crack on the lefthand side of Something Scurrilous Buttress. Fiddly and sometimes dubious protection. |
19
★★★ Something Scurrilous
Climb the crack on left side of buttress to ledge and up twin cracks to FH. Past FH to handcrack (crux), traverse out right under perched block, mount block awkwardly and follow thin crack on left to DBB at top. |
16
Mega Smegma
Follows the crack-line on the right side of the buttress using jams and layaways. DBB at top. |
16 Genetic Junk Yard |
14 Catoblepas |
11
★★ Oisin
Wide crack on front of buttress. Careful of flakes on right. |
16
★ Mulliner's Code
Flake crack to left of Oisin. Finishing up Oisin or dirty gully above. |
18 Maelstrom |
18 R Ploughman's Launch |
19
★ Gecko
Direct start and finish of Alekhines Defence. |
19
★★ Alekhine's Defence
Thin crack up the front of the buttress, trending left from the RHS. |
18
★★ Electric Exercise Bike
Climbs groove / layaway on right until you can step onto face to climb slab (crux - RPs and micro-cams). Then follow crack to DBB. Gear for the slab is bomber and abundant but not obvious from the ground. |
20
★★ Liars and Losers
Up arete past two bolts and some natural gear (RPs and cams). Past another bolts and more cams to DBB. |
17
★★ Bicycles Don't Fly
Up middle of face to DBB. Good pro despite looks (make sure to step right to place gear in the Ants Pants every now and then when the pro fizzles out on the face). |
13
★★ The Ants Pants
Crack / chimney to DBB. |
19
★★ Don't Jolt That Bolt
Slab / face past 2 bolts, with RPs above bolt (offsets handy). |
17
★★ Ferio
Finger crack / layaway corner to DBB. |
21
★★ Tall Dudes
Brilliant arete climbing. Tricky, thin and spaced protection. RPs are placed blind so abseil inspection is recommended. |
22
★★ Picnic in the Front Room
Thin fused crack to right of arete. Thin protection. |
12
Directissimo Man
Cracks / face to top. Walk-off. |
9
Directissimo Girls
The loose, mossy chimney right of Directissimo Man. |
V1 Fadel |
22 ★ Cryptic Clue |
21
★ Anagram
Climbs face trending left from the RHS. RP protection. |
19 M1 Ode to a Robotic Arm |
13 Toes and Thumbs |
18 ★★ Mr Queasy |
18
★★ Our people are nuts
the face on the right of Mr Queasy. Mantle onto the ledge then follow the easy crack until a wedged block. continue up the fingercrack (crux) to horizontal band and up the bulge to the top |
15
★★ The friends we need
the obvious offwidth right of OPAN. Bring big gear (#5 and #6) or run it out in the upper part |
16 Konked Out |
16
Alcove Alley
Climb the wide crack just down from Zundapp on the 'stage'. |
18
★ Zundapp
Climbs the face just right of a vegetated chimney / gully. |
13
Sundy Mockry
Finger crack. |
13
Two Tired
Finger crack 3m right of "Sunday Mockry". Head up until crack widens (Large cam handy). Either continue up to point where where it is possible to blindly step L into groove or enter groove from lowest point. A good pitch for access to "Paunch". |
12
★★ Paunch
Hand crack above Sundy Mockry. |
13
★ No Corruption
Easy hand crack. Good for a beginner. Trad-belay at top and easy walk-off. |
18
★★ Fat and Married
Face / arete above No Corruption. |
17 ★ Get Out Oscar |
10 Stung |
16
★★ Jesus Trousers
Groove / hand-crack past the flake. DBB. |
18
★★ Time Warp Direct
Follow hairline crack and face holds to DBB, trending right to arete as needed. |
17 ★★ Time Warp |
17
★ Six Shooter
The gaping off-width. |
16
Nightmare at 10,000 mm
Climb the short corner crack left and around the corner from Perchance to Dream. DBB lower-off. |
18 R
★★★ Perchance to Dream
Up slab (poor pro), then mount block and up crack to top. Walk-off left. |
18
★ The Contortionist
The short, thin finger-crack in a groove. Very weird, very cool moves. Step right to DBB lower-off. |
14
The Bearded Lady
The short hand crack 2 m right of The Contortionist to DBB lower-off. Worth doing if you're already here. |
13
★ The Dancing Shoes
The slab above Morning Sun, past a #4 cam, single bolt and RPs and micro-cams in the fused seam. DBB lower-off. A good introductory route to RP and micro-cam placements before tackling the more challenging routes here in this style. |
17
★ Morning Sun
Located just left of Spazattack in the alcove. This is the furthest left line. Follow the delightful easy crack until you are forced to step right at the top, below the thin finger crack (crux). Follow this to the top of the buttress, stepping right to the DBB lower-off. Easy to protect, take some small/micro cams for the top. |
14
★★ Things to do While Waiting for the Apocalypse
The next line right of Morning Sun. Follow the crack-line with the crux at the top. Very pleasant. |
18
★★ Mother Earth
The intimidating crack-line left of Spazattack. Follow the tricky thin hands crack to the chockstones (keyed-in solidly - a hammer and crowbar failed to remove them), mount these into the tomb, then to the top and DBB lower-off. Take a BD #4 - no bigger gear needed. |
18
★ Spazattack
Climb shield / flakes and trend right to ledge. Place gear in horizontals and follow RP groove above (crux). Follow arete above to final slab and DBB. Be careful of the potential fall onto the slabby ledge when tackling the crux - RP placements are available here but are not overly inspiring (hence the R rating). |