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Nodes in Smiths Beach

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Node
Smiths Beach

About 30/40 established problems ranging from V0 to V11/12.

Smith's Beach North

Northernmost set of boulders, closest to the Smiths Beach carpark. Relatively high density of problems.

Smith's Beach North
V5 Premium Beachfront Estate

SDS low on arete. Crimpy and highball. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUwWNWy1SNs&feature=youtu.be

2

Sit start on top of little boulder, slap up.

V5 2 Low

Low sit start down to the left of the little boulder. Dont dab!

V3 Slippery Slope

SDS on slopey ledge.

Rock Up

Sit start on jug, rock up and stand up, then up slab. Avoid right jug.

Rock up Right

Start on jug, rock up to gain right jug

V2 Juicy Jugs

SDS on juggy holds. When going up keep to the right side of the jug.

V3 Tough Titties

Sit start with great undercling, up to and then up scoop.

V2 Frothy

Blank looking slab. Probably dont even need to use hands

Slopey traverse

Sit start way left and traverse right

V4 Launchpad

Stand start in break with bad feet. Bust up to the slopey upper lip and traverse left to top out. Optional sit.

V7 to V8 In The Wake

Sit start low on undercling. Compress and slap to the top.

V0 to V1 Warm Up

Cruisy and juggy. Good warm up. Sit start is stiff V1

To the Break

Sit start on underclings with feet under roof, and bust up to the break, then easyish topout

To the break 2

Sit start with left undercling and right sloper, bust up to jugs and topout

V8 to V9 Thin

Sit start on small edges. Right up the middle of the face on tiny crimps...Sketchy landing with the ledge.

V7/8 Brass Monkey

Sit start with good RH pocket. Up arete.

V4 Left Monkey

Sit start with good right hand sidepull and left hand pocket. Up the featured face, keeping left with technical moves.

V5 Right Monkey

Sit Start and trend right

V1/2 Anghenfil môr

Sit start on the right with low hold (right hand slopey hold left hand undercling). Traverse left to topout.

V8 Pysgod Wibili Wobili

Cool compression problem! Stand start squeezing on both sides of the block and compress your way to top. Start left hand on a positive edge around the middle of the prow and right hand on a dimple around the right side of the prow in line with the left edge.

Julz

Pysgod Wibili Wobli, sit

The sit start.

V4 The Prawn

Start on the left face of the boulder - crouching. Up using the sharp edges, trending right.

Seaside Sector

Relatively lowball problems and features Along near the water. Some require low tide to climb

Seaside Sector
V8 The Reckless Jumping Sea Barnacle

Cool feature near the water on the right as you walk in. Sit start on the pockets then jump behind you to the slopey lip.

V0 Straight up

Start on big jug on corner (Left face) then step up and top out straight.

Exit 1

From jug on right face, quick traverse left, then exit up with first crack

Exit 2

From Jug on right face, traverse across to second crack, then bust up to a great jug

Finale Exit Traverse

From smaller jug on right face, traverse along horizontal crack all the way to the other side

Black Wall
Black Wall
12 Small Pro
Camelot Castle
Camelot Castle
6 Child's Play
21 The Holy Grail
19 Sir Lancelot
18 Lady of the Lake
19 Excalibur
17 King Arthur
16 Lady Guinevere
13 Merlin
Not Even Close (Project)
11 Corner Bakery
8 Flakey Pastry
10 Puffed Pastry
Harbour Wall

Most routes from SW Rock (2016)

Harbour Wall
17 Crow's Nest
17 Cape to Crack
14 The Drunken Sailor
22 Buffalo Soldier
16 Tacking into the WInd
13 Seafood Extender
13 Bulging Pockets
17 Crab Scuttle
17 Scurvy
Zawnographic Wall
Zawnographic Wall
13 Deceptive Looks
10 Side Walk
15 Photographic Belayer
15 Jefferson Drive
15 The Smithsonium
19 The Girls of Zawn
17 Billowing Sails
13 Sandy Sunday
Boulder Wall

Information from SW Rock (2016)

Boulder Wall
10 Murphy's Scramble
19 Chicken Wings
6 Over Extended
19 Doubtful Casting

This climbs is located away from the others, down towards the water.

Smiths Beach South

Follow the cape to cape track to the obvious boulders at the top of the hill.

Smiths Beach South
V8 Small Holds

Sit start then up. Hard.

V2 Slopes Warm Up

Sit start, up the obvious features.

V3 Slopes Warm Up 2

Sit start, as Slopes Warm Up but instead of moving left through feature, continues straight up arete through slopers.

V5 Jump Move

Sit start. Up the face left of vitruvian man. Avoid the boulder on the left.

V6 Vitruvian Man

Stand Start wide - left hand in the seam right on the arete. Up to an insecure jump to the lip. Morpho, but damn cool

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KeLmnzEIIh8

V1 Arete

The right arete/slab.

V2 Slab

Up the slabby face around from Vitruvian Man.

V5 Prow

Tall...

Looks cool and has chalk on it...

Has it been done? name? grade? hmmmm

Proj?
V4 Rad

Sit start. Awesome problem - committing as the landing slopes away.

V8 to V9 Heel Toe, Dosey Doe
Funky Town

Sit start with left hand on the arete, right hand on the series of pinches. Up to good hold and top out.

V5 The Mild

Start in the back of the cave - then out using the right wall.

V11 to V12 The Wild

Sit start in the back of the cave and squeeze your way out the middle bulge with the slopey pinches to a cut loose at the lip. All time South West roof climbing in an outrageous position!

Showing all 86 nodes.

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