Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Tue 14th May 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
Far Crag | |||||||
23 | ★ Illequipt Left Side | 14m | ★ Good | ||||
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17 Hard | ★ Alms | 15m | Average | ||||
Borderline sandbagger at 17. Very tough previously, now that I'm stronger the really delicate section at the bottom is less of an issue, can just face climb it
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19 | Pulpit | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Quite a good climb! Worth doing occasionally
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Sun 14th Apr 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
Far Crag | |||||||
17 R | ★★ Resurrection | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
TR. L foot in dish R foot on poorish footer to R.
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Sat 13th Apr 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
Far Crag | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Barad Dur | 20m, 1 | |||||
TRS
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15 | ★ Lords Prayer — 2 attempts | 17m | |||||
TRS
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16 | ★ Golgotha — 2 attempts | 15m | |||||
TRS - I need to learn how to jam
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16 | ★ Asgard | 15m | |||||
TRS
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15 | ★★ Shedidit | 13m | |||||
TRS
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19 | ★ A Quiet Chat | 13m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
TR. Pretty much cruised it today. I love the way I do the bottom it feels so cool with the high R foot and big reach o with the R hand. Also love the crux with the dependency and the poor L foot and small flat top hind for the R hand to grab the high, left hand sloppier gaston with crimp on it 😀
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Fri 29th Mar 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
Far Crag | |||||||
23 | ★ Illequipt Left Side | 14m | ★ Good | ||||
Nearly! Got the moves, just need to stick them now
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19 | ★ Shewoodenduit | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sucks that the crux is straight off the deck, but still a great route
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23 Easy | ★★ Pizazz | 21m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
I did dog it on my onsite attempt, but it still felt quite easy for a 23. Confident I'll send it now I know where the holds are. Maybe lead? Maybe : )
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Tue 5th Mar 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
Far Crag | |||||||
21 | ★★ Klutz Connection | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Finally sent nice and clean. Great climb. ALMOST 3 stars. Not that I can think of a reason it would lose any. No view? It's got a hands free kneebar!
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24 | ★ Klutz | 13m | |||||
Still clueless. Unless I'm allowed to put feet in the couch corner? Still, those holds are all impossibly small...
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17 R | ★★ Resurrection | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Possibly the best variant, off a klutz top rope, up resurrection until just after the klutz crux, then finish up klutz. Grade 17-18 all the way up
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Thu 29th Feb 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
Far Crag | |||||||
21 | ★★ Klutz Connection — 2 attempts | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
TRS projecting. Glad the TRS setup works fine with the roof. The crux is the first move after you step out onto the face, right? The first way I got up proved unrepeatable second time around and ruined my clean attempt. Think I've got a nicer sequence now.
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24 | ★ Klutz | 13m | |||||
TRS attempt, got nothing. Spent a lot of time sitting looking at the rock and I still have no idea how you're supposed to get up. All ideas lead off route one way or the other
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17 R | ★★ Resurrection — 2 attempts | 14m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Still a great climb! Had a sit first time up trying to remember the crux
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Tue 13th Feb 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
Far Crag | |||||||
22 Hard | ★★★ Barad Dur | 20m, 1 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Pumped at the top
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Sat 27th Jan 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
Far Crag | |||||||
16 | ★ Asgard | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
16 laps on TR for easy shoulder rehab. Sets of 1, 2, 3, 4, 3, 2 and 1.
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Tue 16th Jan 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
Far Crag | |||||||
18 | ★★ Illequipt | 14m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Endearing classic
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21 X | ★★ Bung Totally Right — 2 attempts | 13m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Best route on the wall. Testing first half with non-obvious crux sequence, then a comfortable but delicate top half
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23 X Easy | ★★ Bung Direct — 3 attempts | 13m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Woo yeah! First 23. Once I had sorted a crux sequence, my clean send was quite comfortable
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Thu 11th Jan 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
Far Crag | |||||||
7 | ★ This Way Up | 18m | Don't Bother | ||||
Poor pro loose rock or rock just held in with dirt most of the way up. Not much at the top for an anchor either.
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Sun 31st Dec 2023 - Morialta | |||||||
Far Crag | |||||||
19 | ★ A Quiet Chat | 13m | |||||
Got pumped looking for where to go. Moves were not to bad once I worked it out.
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7 | Sunout | ||||||
Did it bare foot . Tim also smashed it.
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Wed 20th Dec 2023 - Morialta | |||||||
Far Crag | |||||||
7 | Sunout - with JD | Crap | |||||
Downclimbed. Good gear to half height, then just dirt, grass and grovelling...
Maybe this is fun as a top rope but I doubt it.
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6 | Cork - with JD, WogBoy | 9m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
This route is ace! A must lead for budding trad climbers... it has it all - solid gear, good climbing on decent rock, with a wild top out! haha
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Fri 1st Dec 2023 - Morialta | |||||||
Far Crag | |||||||
22 | ★ Legato Fae — 5 attempts | 14m | ★ Good | ||||
TRSd this, humid sweaty afternoon, took a few attempts to get it clean. Had to use chalk... Feel like there's still a better way, but happy with the send.
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Sun 5th Nov 2023 - Morialta | |||||||
Far Crag | |||||||
22 | ★ Cioch - with Carl Schneider | 14m | |||||
Did all the moves after a nit of sussing, didn't have the top rope in the right spot to try hard.
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22 | ★ Cioch - with Cliff Barnett | 14m | |||||
Tried on TR. Didn’t get to the tit. Nice starting moves.
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19 | ★ A Quiet Chat - with Cliff Barnett | 13m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
TR. Several times over the weekend, mostly flawlessly but came off of the tiny RH side pull I use at the start.
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Sat 4th Nov 2023 - Morialta | |||||||
Far Crag | |||||||
17 R | ★★ Resurrection - with Laura | 14m | |||||
bold start
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22 | ★★★ Barad Dur - with Laura | 20m, 1 | |||||
Spat off top onto black totem
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Thu 14th Sep 2023 - Morialta | |||||||
Far Crag | |||||||
16 | ★ Golgotha | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Supposedly I’ve seconded this previously. Remembering precisely none of the moves made for a thought provoking outing
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16 | ★ Asgard | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Bringing a 2nd 0.3 cam for the crux would have saved me a lot of faffing around trying to wiggle in a crap RP
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Sat 9th Sep 2023 - Morialta | |||||||
Far Crag | |||||||
15 | Arev | 14m | Average | ||||
recent rain has made it super dirty right now, makes it a lot harder
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Fri 21st Jul 2023 - Morialta | |||||||
Far Crag | |||||||
16 ~17 | ★ Golgotha | 15m | |||||
Hard!
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22 | ★ Cioch | 14m | |||||
Micro black, Mirco blue. Clip bolt, then 2 horizontals to gain corner. Bit of a wedge, chuck in a red at the top left, then use that as a left hand undercling to reach the 2 side pulls out right with high Rf. Then you can find a crimp on the headwall to get the left leg across and gain the jugs
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Wed 12th Jul 2023 - Morialta | |||||||
Far Crag | |||||||
8 | Cinch - with Khya Brown, Laurence Judd | 14m | Average | ||||
Helping teach and did this in two pitches. Lead the top few metres
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15 | ★★ Shedidit - with Khya Brown, Laurence Judd | 13m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Enjoyed this and double cammed for most of it. Racing to climb out before the dark
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Sun 2nd Jul 2023 - Morialta | |||||||
Far Crag | |||||||
18 | ★★ Illequipt | 14m | |||||
Fell on a wet jug. Will attempt again when dry.
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8 | Cinch | 14m | |||||
Climbed in hiking boots cause I left my climbing shoes at the top
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19 | ★ A Quiet Chat | 13m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I doubted I’d get this clean today, but it ended up feeling almost easy.
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Wed 7th Jun 2023 - Morialta | |||||||
Far Crag | |||||||
23 | ★★ Pizazz — 3 attempts | 21m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
fun! third go in the end. satisfying climbing for sure
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22 | ★★★ Barad Dur | 20m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
went down smoothly since i remebered beta. Cracker!
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Tue 2nd May 2023 - Morialta | |||||||
Far Crag | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Barad Dur | 20m, 1 | |||||
To lead next time; from rest, right into crack overhead, then left above, right hand Gaston rhs of loose block near top of finger crack
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Sat 22nd Apr 2023 - Morialta | |||||||
Far Crag | |||||||
15 | ★★ Shedidit | 13m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Bridged as far as I could then went into power layback mode- just had no power!? One for the climbing judgement category- don’t push it if you’re feeling a bit “off” - it turns out I have Covid!
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Sun 2nd Apr 2023 - Morialta | |||||||
Far Crag | |||||||
15 | Arev | 14m | ★ Good | ||||
Interesting and varied climbing. Gritty in more ways than one …Phew!
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Sat 1st Apr 2023 - Morialta | |||||||
Far Crag | |||||||
18 | ★★ Illequipt - with Chelsea, Uday, Gioele | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
This is quite good, but the gear at the start does not feel very good. Make sure to bring small stuff up... At least a bomber 0.5 before the crux (and after!) makes you feel happy to run that section out a bit. Stoked to onsight it!
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15 | ★★ Shedidit - with Chelsea, Uday | 13m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Really nice and well protected. Feels like you still need a bit of good technique.
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Fri 17th Mar 2023 - Morialta | |||||||
Far Crag | |||||||
16 | ★ Asgard | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
trad pb
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15 | ★★ Shedidit | 13m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
bit more sketchy in the dark with no headtorch lol
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Mon 6th Mar 2023 - Morialta | |||||||
Far Crag | |||||||
20 R | ★ The Crunge - with Laurence Judd | 14m | ★ Good | ||||
Not quite sure I can tick this! Guidebook says stay off the arete (which I did) but used one hand in 'Ill Equipt' about 2 feet above the letter box slot. Gonna compromise and tick as a red point, not a flash haha
Whatever the exact intended route is, it's a fairly pointless eliminate with some good moves! Gotta disagree with the 'R' rating, found 3 great thin wires in the thin crack after leaving IllEquipt, hardest section to protect (for me) was the easy shared start with IllEquipt Actual climb went really well, took a few false starts leaving the letterbox slot and placing incrementally higher wires before I was ready to commit to moving up to the break and was all sweet from there. |
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16 | ★ Asgard | 15m | Average | ||||
0.3 cam found its way into a tiny spot in the horizontal removing the need for run out. Made this lead feel very safe.
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19 | ★ A Quiet Chat | 13m | ★ Good | ||||
A nice line, smooth sailing here.
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23 | ★ Illequipt Left Side | 14m | |||||
Sharp & fingery. Not very enjoyable
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18 Easy | ★★ Illequipt - with Laurence Judd | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Found the gear really thin and finicky low down, but you can start getting some bomber pieces in as it starts build up to grade 18.
Crux and beyond went super smooth thanks to my TR rehearsal, would say no single move that felt harder than any on Asgard |
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16 Hard | ★ Asgard - with Laurence Judd | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
good gear, but packs all the real climbing into like 3 moves
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18 Easy | ★★ Illequipt - with Laurence Judd | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
warm up / gear finding mission
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Sun 5th Mar 2023 - Morialta | |||||||
Far Crag | |||||||
16 | ★ Asgard - with Callum Brett | 15m | Average | ||||
Got to the small gear section and had a lot of trouble placing a micro in the slot. Got over pumped and bailed up cinch. Found the spot rappelling down, so it should be much better next time!
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6 | Cork - with Luke Dow | 9m | Don't Bother | ||||
Nothing good to say about this one, dirty and full of webs. A pretty bad line.
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Sat 4th Mar 2023 - Morialta | |||||||
Far Crag | |||||||
18 | ★★ Illequipt - with chad | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Freaked out and ran it out!
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Fri 3rd Mar 2023 - Morialta | |||||||
Far Crag | |||||||
8 | Cinch | 14m | ★ Good | ||||
Sent in 3 pitches for some anchor building practice. Some good fun. Lead 1st & 3rd pitch
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12 | ★ Sheoak Corner | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Leading is harder in the dark...
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Wed 1st Feb 2023 - Morialta | |||||||
Far Crag | |||||||
16 | ★ Asgard - with chad | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Happy to finally give this a go in lead
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16 | ★ Golgotha | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Not as smooth as last time.
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Sun 29th Jan 2023 - Morialta | |||||||
Far Crag | |||||||
16 | ★ Ob-la-di | 17m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Top wall felt really balancy - relieved there was lots of gear
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Tue 24th Jan 2023 - Morialta | |||||||
Far Crag | |||||||
18 | ★★ Illequipt - with Frewin Ries, mark shelton | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Used a nice finger lock at the crux and felt nicer than any previous attempt
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19 | ★ A Quiet Chat - with Frewin Ries, mark shelton | 13m | ★ Good | ||||
Felt good, used Mark’s beta to good effect
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16 | ★ Golgotha - with nigel rowe | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Jammed the crux as it should be done
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17 R | ★★ Resurrection - with nigel rowe | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Learnt 5 variations of the crux, think I like mantling the best
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Tue 10th Jan 2023 - Morialta | |||||||
Far Crag | |||||||
20 | ★★ Bung RHF - with Nigel, Chad, toohey | 13m | |||||
Always a fun climb
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15 | ★ Shemademedoit - with Nigel, Chad, toohey | 15m | |||||
Nice wall, lots of options for placing gear
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17 R | ★★ Resurrection - with Nigel, Chad, toohey | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fun route, have the mantle move dialed and think I’m ready to lead this.
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23 | ★★ Pizazz - with Nigel, Chad, toohey | 21m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
First attempt at this climb. Took the direct route and made it to the third bolt but ran out of steam after that. Will try on toprope solo to work out the sequence before I have another crack
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22 | ★★★ Barad Dur - with Luke Dow | 20m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sent in 2 parts. Crack sequence now goes. Time to dial it in.
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Thu 5th Jan 2023 - Morialta | |||||||
Far Crag | |||||||
16 | ★ Asgard - with Laurence Judd, Kachow, Mana | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Probably could have spent some time putting in any pro at the top. Put two cams in near the light coloured rock and just cruised to the top.
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22 | ★ Legato Fae - with Laurence Judd, Kachow, Mana | 14m | ★ Good | ||||
Thanks Laurence for chalking the holds before my burn. Very crimpy through the crux
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16 | ★ Asgard - with Mana, Ross Paynter | 15m | Average | ||||
Bit of a 2 move wonder, first half is a 10 then a few slightly harder moves to an easy top.
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22 Hard | ★ Legato Fae - with Mana, Ross Paynter | 14m | Average | ||||
Stiff for the grade, some hard crimpy moves avoiding asgard holds.
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18 | ★★ Illequipt - with Mana, Ross Paynter | 14m | ★ Good | ||||
Not as fun as quiet chat as the start is quite trivial.
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19 | ★ A Quiet Chat - with Mana, Ross Paynter | 13m | ★ Good | ||||
An enjoyable straight forward line.
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Thu 22nd Dec 2022 - Morialta | |||||||
Far Crag | |||||||
15 | ★ Tai-o-Toshi | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
I now see why Kachow ended up on Golgotha when he tried leading this, pro gets a bit thin on the headwall, unsure I'm jumping to get on lead here just yet
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16 | ★ Golgotha | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Another one to get back and lead
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Sat 10th Dec 2022 - Morialta | |||||||
Far Crag | |||||||
12 | ★ Sheoak Corner | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
First trad lead!
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Thu 24th Nov 2022 - Morialta | |||||||
Far Crag | |||||||
18 | ★★ Illequipt — 2 attempts | 14m | |||||
First time on rock in what feels like weeks. So good!
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Fri 11th Nov 2022 - Morialta | |||||||
Far Crag | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Barad Dur | 20m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Always wanted to lead this after toproping it years ago. The top crack is incredible and suprisingly sustained however the route is definitely let down by the chossy bottom half. Felt fairly sketchy up until the bolt, then glorious fingerlocks to the top!
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Sun 6th Nov 2022 - Morialta | |||||||
Far Crag | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Barad Dur | 20m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great climb. Beware the loose block towards the top
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Sat 5th Nov 2022 - Morialta | |||||||
Far Crag | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Barad Dur | 20m, 1 | |||||
Nice climb to top rope but a bit scary to trad. Maybe when I get more confidence..
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Sat 29th Oct 2022 - Morialta | |||||||
Far Crag | |||||||
18 | ★★ Illequipt | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Escaped up Al Sirrat
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9 12 | Aries | 17m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very enjoyable
Good rock - didn’t find the “disintegrating” footers mentioned in the guide
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Sun 16th Oct 2022 - Morialta | |||||||
Far Crag | |||||||
12 | Pedagogue | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Adventure climbing!
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Mon 10th Oct 2022 - Morialta | |||||||
Far Crag | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Barad Dur | 20m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Got three quarters of the way up clean. 22 on trad is tough...
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12 | ★ Sheoak Corner | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
The last couple moves are supreme and unfortunately unclimbed due to toproping
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16 | ★ Asgard | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Woo hoo
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Sat 8th Oct 2022 - Morialta | |||||||
Far Crag | |||||||
23 23 X | ★★ Bung Direct | 13m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Excellent send. some of the best slab climbing i have ever done.
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Sun 25th Sep 2022 - Morialta | |||||||
Far Crag | |||||||
16 | ★ Asgard | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Finally on gear!
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Sat 10th Sep 2022 - Morialta | |||||||
Far Crag | |||||||
20 | ★★ Bung RHF | 13m | |||||
Always a 50/50 route for me. Got to remember the little horizontal R of the tiny RH Gaston flaky thing. Failed first attempt got it second TR only of course.
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It's worth 2 stars for the delicate balancy face climbing, but 0 stars for the lingering pain in my left fingertips. So sharp it's gross