Routes in Morialta

The hardest route in Morialta. Boulder problem start through low roof above boulder (stick clip bolt shared with Olympus), 2m left of Pussy Cats. Join Following a Feltch through big roof then cut back right around arete via another bouldery sequence. Finish at loweroff shared with Kiss My Brain.

Starts as for Fred Radford then takes the Following a Feltch finish, ending at the chain of Gladiator.

Climbs the initial boulder problem start of Olympus, then breaks left through the main roof (instead of avoiding it - see 'Olympus') to join 'No Mustard On Withdrawal' at its crux. Continue up headwall then trend right to arete and climb to the Gladiator chain.

Start as for Barad Dur. Once on the ledge step left so that you are below and 1m left of Barad Dur's crackline and climb directly up, staying within a metre of the crack. If you're on route the first bolt of Pizazz can be clipped prior to heading up but then you are relying on side runners in Barad Dur.

Climb Fred Radford start through roof then finish as for Kiss My Brain.

Now superseded by 'Following A Feltch'. The original boulder problem start. 1st bolt is for belayers benefit. Stick clip 2nd, then boulder up and right to a small jug under roof, then span right to gain a sidepull and move into Kiss My Brain. Continue over the roof and finish directly up easy headwall.

Starts up Geronimo's Cadillac as far as the second bolt then goes up and a little left from there: a couple of fine vertical crimps off to the left and then straight over the bulge to grab a quartz knob, swings up and there is a nice sequence of dynamic moves on the lip of the bulge reminiscent of a skateboarding move.

From the skateboard move the route continues straight up (small crystal finger pocket) and a tricky sequence at the top, sustained until the last move. The line avoids all the holds on Muesli and Extra G.

A boulder problem traverse link up into Japetus Direct Finish. Start (sit) left of base of Olympus - dyno rightwards and climb across cave to juggy traverse that leads underneath Sardine etc to base of Japetus. Continue up that route. Best done with a top-rope clipped in prior to embarking on the route itself. Basically a V5/6 problem into an existing 23.

Sit-starts on the good edge left of the marked Olympus start (just right of 'Gladiator' Direct). Big move to the square jug at the start of Olympus, then reach right for underclings on the left edge of the small cave (feet on pillar only). Grab a positive edge on the lip, then dyno right to the large flared pinch. Swing feet onto the right-side of the cave and drop down to the finger jug at the start of 'The 'Warm Up' Traverse'. Has been linked into The 'Warm Up Traverse' & onwards up 'Japetus' Direct - which is worth 27 for effort!

Take Geronimo's Cadillac (direct version) to the half height rest, then launch past 2 more bolts through a final boulder problem right of the original finish. Slightly harder than GC.

Takes a direct line after the 2nd bolt (basically eliminating the jug rest to the right). Contrived, but if you want the 26 label, this is the way to do it. Has over the years been muddled with the RHV (25 - and the obvious line using the jug).

Start up Muesli (trad gear) then reverse the traverse of Extra G Connection straight into the crux of Geronimo's Cadillac, then finish as for Geronimo's Corvette. Longest route on the wall.

Originally mistaken for Simon Wilson's 'LAT', which itself was given the alternative name by Matt Adams back in the day. This name was retained for historical purposes. This has now been modified slightly (2020) to cause offense to muffins, as opposed to hand warmers (you can't please everyone). It had been TR'd by Stu Williams back in the '90s,but was followed by a lead ascent by Steve in November 2014. Start as for Barad Dur to ledge. Tip toe left to directly below the first bolt on Pizazz. Trend up a line right of the Pizazz bolts to a horizontal level with the 3rd. A powerful undercling move leads to crimps and an increasingly run out crux section with gear (0.75 cam) awaiting near the top. Employ a good belayer.

GC but with the benefit of using the jug out right. The standard way of climbing this line nowadays, and mistaken as the full 26 version by many.

The face between Eternal Damnation's Arete and Lord's Prayer's Corner. Both of these routes are off limits. Begin as for Eternal Damnation and then continue up the face avoiding the arete of Eternal Damnation and corner of Lord's Prayer.

One of the best routes in the Gorge. Climb the roof right of the undercut arete (Japetus) via a large undercling. Get your breath back over the lip, then launch up and left (or go direct) to the obvious rampline. One final hard move remains, then large holds lead to the chain in a runout position (Cam optional). Unfortunately the scene of some chipping circa 2005 when the crux slot on the face after the roof was altered to allow certain people's fingers to close crimp the hold. What they didn't know is that this route can be climbed direct up the face (slightly harder).

Strenuous boulder problem (stick clip very high bolt) starting by stepping off the block to a large undercling (right of Radford start), then trending up and left to arete (crux), and into the finish of Olympus to the piton. From here gain hold over roof and up to crimps in face, then diagonally left to finish at single bolt lower off.

KMB to the roof and then follow the bolts to olympis finish rings

Start up Geronimo's Cadillac. Traverse left after the first bolt to join Extra G.

Wall left of Bung Direct, staying out of the corner and not touching the central crack.

KMB to the roof and then follow the bolts to the Ring bolt chains

Start at for Kiss my Brain and then follow the easier line up to Olympis ring bolts.

A worthwhile variant. Start as for 'The Stench' then once past its roof climb up to its good 'ear' edge and make a reach out left to the 'Japetus' undercling. Finish as for 'Japetus' Direct.

Take 'Japetus' to the 'hole' - then launch up the left side of the arete past a small edge and a 'hidden' sidepull to the 'Japetus' break.

The original line continued up the face of 'Terra Incognita' - however cutting back right at the good rest and launching up the direct finish of 'Japetus' Direct makes for a far better route.

Takes the line of ring bolts on the left side of 'Sardine', joining that route at its rest.

Rarely done, mainly because it has a sport (bolted) start, then relies on trad (small wires) to finish. Climbs Pussycats start (crux) then trends left into Kiss My Brain (bolt and old piton). Over roof, but instead of taking the bolt line left (KMB), go up 2/3m then trent left to arete. Finish at top chain for maximum enjoyment.

Climbs 'Gladiator Direct' into 'No Mustard' - thereby avoiding the contrived drop-down move. Very sustained. Recommended to stick clip the 1st traverse bolt from the ground prior to starting. Hard for the grade.

Climbs 'Gladiator' until into the corner, then drops down and traverses right across the lip of the Olympus roof via some pockets. Once at the arete, blast straight on up the face, finishing at chains.

Longest route on the wall. Actually starts as for 'Gorilla My Dreams Original Direct Start' and takes a long diagonal up this then right across the now more popular bolted DS. Where that route breaks left to finish up the crack, keep trending right along the horizontal for a couple of moves, then launch upwards via underclings through a very bouldery finish exiting about 2-3m right of the other lines. Watch your back at the top.

The black streak L of Illequipt, using that route for protection only.

The face on the left of the 'Barad Dur' wall, avoiding the corner. Climb on crimps following the line of bolts up the face.

Start: You can begin as for 'Barad Dur' or from directly below the route proper.

A more powerful version of 'Japetus'. Once at the large break, cut right up the rampline of 'Stench' and finish at that routes chain. Sustained.

Originally established as a bold traditional outing by Kim Carrigan. Now retro-bolted with general consensus due to it residing in a largely sport-route populated area. Not surprisingly, it has now become one of the most travelled lines for its grade at 'Morialta'. Makes for a far better outing than the original. Once at the big break, climb straight up the continuation of the arete largely on its right border to finish at a chain.

The original route. Now superseded by the direct finish.

Start: Takes the very overhanging arete from its base up to the 'hole', then tacts right around the steep arete and up to the big break via a good undercling. This original line then stepped left and finished up the 'Terra Incognita' face.

Follow the line of bolts up the middle of the black wall left of the loose blocky corner. A technical mid section!

The central crack. The first (aided) route up the wall took 16 years before it went free.

Climb 'Gorilla My Dreams Direct Start' to the top horizontal (finger-jug), but instead of breaking left to finish up the crack, go directly straight up via the hanging flake/sidepull.

Run out between 1st and 2nd, and 2nd and 3rd bolts with ground-fall potential. 4 bolts. Safer to bring trad gear for protection between bolts. 5th bolt is for the direct finish out left.

The wall left of Asgard. Not allowed to use Asgard's holds.

“Up the wall Right of RESURRECTION to a squatting rest beneath the Roof, Step left , Clip a bolt - Then fight Up to the nipple on the arete. Finish up the HAND CRACK. There are variants but the above mentioned is most popular “ Rock climbing around Adelaide. George Adams , John Dutton (14M3) 1970 TR Jim Olsen 20.10.74 FFLA Henry Barber 15.4.75 (19) FFLA Rod Young 18.9.79 (22)

Swing up the steep juggy wall immediately left of Eternal Damnation's undercut arete past a big rattly block to a ledge. Step right and go up to the roof. Now make a cramped step back left past a bolt onto an undercut wall to reach the base of the crack. Straight up the crack.

Begin at the Overhung Corner / Protruding Buttress right of Stench Before the Storm's face. Continue up the wall on good holds.

Climb the reachy boulder-problem off the deck just right of the Terrethea crackline via a big move to the dubious flat jug. Continue up to the 'shield' (which is living on borrowed time) - then onwards up the face.

Starts just left of the 'Terrathea' corner and climbs up to the big sidepull sloper and two good edges. Clip the next bolt and launch out left (crux) to a big crank level with the small roof (rest). Cut back right - then left - until below the final face (rest). Continue to the chain. This route can also be done by going direct through the roof (at the same grade).

Takes the poor-looking rock immediately left of the marked Olympus start, joining the upper corner via a reachy and powerful sequence. Was the original line until the loss of some holds.

Start halfway up the gully and launch directly up the wall following the bolted line. Bouldery start, then a very good rest mid-way up leads to a finger-jug at the final horizontal. Break left via a reachy move into the steep diagonal crackline, then finish up it.

Up the L wall of the gully following the flakes and cracks. Put some pro in between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Step R for a rest, then back L to the top.

The top anchor is two carrots so bring bolt plates.

Start 2m right of Mt Olive (marked "O"). Up to stance below roof. Follow thin crack through roof to jugs, hand traverse left around arete then up.

Climb up into the brain and head left to two small crimps then reach for an under cling in the roof to rest. Move left around the arete and the 2nd roof, RH side crimp on up high and LH gaston to get a high right foot to step up to a jug and smooth reachy climbing to the top.

2m R of "The Thinker". Up wall, clip 1st bolt of "Close your eyes and think of England" on your right, then up past piton.

Very nice sustained wall climb.

Start: Start as for muesli and continue for 6 metres to where 2 small horizontals allow you step out on to the wall to the right. Climb over a small bulge to reach a thin seam and follow this to where it curls of right. Clip the bolt and go for the top.

The line of bolts to the lower off on the short buttress R of the Hyperion corner. Stick clip recommended.

A really good combo route. Start as for Terrethea, but prior to its crux reach out right for the big flake of 'Terra Incognita'. Match this and continue up the line. Effectively dismisses the original 'Terra Incognita' reachy crux.

Takes the line of bolts up the jagged arete just left of Gladiator's start. Re-equipped with a new lower-off.

Climb the R side of the wall, the crack and arete are off limits.

Climb The 'Warm Up Traverse' there and back.