Routes as trad in Mount Brown Main Face

1. Two options for this pitch.

   30m 23

   From the belay traverse L to the big spike, from here head up and then back R to the belay.

   25m 23

   From the belay crank through the roof and up to a good rest, then climb the wall above.

2. 15m 17 An easy pitch from ledge to ledge. One bolt and gear.

3. 25m 22 Spicy moves off the ledge and the wall above, take a #2 Camalot for between 1st and 2nd bolt.

4. Two options for this pitch.

   20m 20

   From the belay traverse up and L to the corner, clipping two bolts, follow this on mixed gear and exit R at the top to the belay. Wires and small cams are useful in the corner. Gear up to #0.5 Camalot

   20m 26

   The right hand line heading direct to the belay. Awesome rock, with bouldery moves near the top. Could be harder! (fully bolted)

5. 30m 23 From the belay blast up the interesting wall past a powerful crux.

The king line of this cliff and also the best.

Find the I've Heard it all Before rap anchors under a small bush near a cairn. -43.2063 147.8661

The rap in is the first crux, particularly the bottom pitches. Pre-equip the crux pitch to keep rope out of the drink when pulled. You may need to back-clip your way down a couple of the abseils.

Many parties fix a rope to knock out the first few raps, but a 70m (and probably a 60 too) will get you down easily.

1. 10m 14 From the ledge on the lip of the cave move easily up to a nice stance on the pocketed wall. Best to skip this one.

2. 35m 24 Money pitch. Steep and sustained over the 3 overlaps. Pre-equip badly placed 2nd bolt with long draw for drag and self preservation.

3. 40m 22 Traverse L past and up into the corner. Up this, then back R through and around roof. Continue up slabs above to the chill out ledge.

4. 15m 20 Plug in a medium cam then up the wall to a reach crux at top.

5. 20m 23 Head up and right through the steep juggy wall above, passing the Pocket of Love at the top.

6. 20m 22 Move R around the arête to crack, then then up the thin layback crack above.

7. 15m 21 Continue up the corner above. Some cams required. Used to be 19 but some holds broken?

8. 20m 17 Step R into the corner and then traverse diagonally R to the big ledge.

9. 5m 8 Scramble easily out as for IHIAB.

Suggested gear list: Double ropes (or a single 70m) and helmets, 10 short quickdraws and 5 long quickdraws, Camalots: 1 each of #.4 #.5 #.75 #1 #2. Note: this gear list does not allow for rappelling the route.

The long line down the right hand side of the cliff with a difficult approach. Starts 3m above the swirling sea kelp.

1. 30m 19. The LH line from the belay at sea-level. RH line is grade 20. Finish at Botanical Gardens Ledge.

2. 15m 18. Traverse up and left off the ledge.

3. 25m 19. Up corner to slab then follow cracks (trad) to ledge.

4. 20m 14. Up juggy ramp

5. 25m 17. The Milky Way Pitch

6. 15m 22. Boulder up corner to Deano's Ledge. Some suss bolts can be avoided by climbing corner to the left on gear.

7. 35m 23. Crux. Start at LH end of ledge and climb pocketed face to hand crack.

8. 25m 21. Up crack

9. 10m 8. Scramble to the top.