Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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19 | ★★ The Governor p1 | 320m | Mt Barney | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 7th Sep 2014 | ||||
20 22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p2) | 320m | Mt Barney | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 7th Sep 2014 | ||||
Pulled a hold and came off pulled about ten holds of this pitch
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20 | ★★ The Governor p3 | 320m | Mt Barney | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 7th Sep 2014 | ||||
Hold came of along with ten others lol
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16 22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p4) | 320m | Mt Barney | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 7th Sep 2014 | ||||
18 | ★★ The Governor p5 | 320m | Mt Barney | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 7th Sep 2014 | ||||
19 | ★★ The Governor p1 | 320m | Mt Barney | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 18th Feb 2016 | ||||
20 22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p2) | 320m | Mt Barney | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 18th Feb 2016 | ||||
20 | ★★ The Governor p3 | 320m | Mt Barney | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 18th Feb 2016 | ||||
16 22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p4) | 320m | Mt Barney | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 18th Feb 2016 | ||||
18 | ★★ The Governor p5 | 320m | Mt Barney | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 18th Feb 2016 | ||||
21 22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p6) | 320m | Mt Barney | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 18th Feb 2016 | ||||
21 | ★★ The Governor p7 | 320m | Mt Barney | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 18th Feb 2016 | ||||
18 22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p8) | 320m | Mt Barney | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 18th Feb 2016 | ||||
linked pitch 8 and 9 together
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14 22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p9) | 320m | Mt Barney | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 18th Feb 2016 | ||||
17 | ★★ The Governor p10 | 320m | Mt Barney | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 18th Feb 2016 | ||||
dan linked pitch 10 and 11 together
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21 | ★★ The Governor p11 | 320m | Mt Barney | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 18th Feb 2016 | ||||
20 22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p12) | 320m | Mt Barney | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 18th Feb 2016 | ||||
22 | ★★ The Governor p13 | 320m | Mt Barney | Crap | Thu 18th Feb 2016 | ||||
dan linked pitch 13 and 14 together. fell because off holds breaking really chossy pitches
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22 | ★★ The Governor p14 | 320m | Mt Barney | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 18th Feb 2016 | ||||
14 22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p15) | 320m | Mt Barney | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 18th Feb 2016 | ||||
solo, didnt bother with the bolts. made good time on the climb! started walking in from the car park at 5:10am got back to the car park at 3:15pm! with out rushing.
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22 |
★★ The Governor
- with
Alex Waterhouse
1
lead by
Alex
2
lead by
Will
3
lead by
Will
4
lead by
Alex
5
lead by
Alex
6
lead by
Will
7
lead by
Will
8
lead by
Alex
9
lead by
Alex
10
lead by
Will
11
lead by
Will
12
lead by
Alex
13
lead by
Will
14
lead by
Will
15
lead by
Alex
| 320m | Mt Barney | ★★ Very Good | Tue 26th Sep 2017 | ||||
This was my second time climbing the governor, first time was in August 2016. I am still confused as to why I agreed to climb this again. It's one of those climbs that you will remember, but not necessarily enjoy at the time.
It's a huge adventure and definitely requires good head space, the rock is fairly average in a few places and there are a number of ledgy falls. I was pretty exhausted so pulled on a few draws in the tough sections. Self-rescue skills and bulk water is recommended. We left some water and excess gear at the landing (about 80% of the way up the south-east ridge) prior to abseiling down to the east face. We took about 2 litres of water each on the climb itself which wasn't enough. The temperature on the day was above the 30 degree mark, at midday the rock was burning our feet on the black rock belay ledges. Do not recommend attempting in hot weather. Keep in mind that this climb cops sun until about 2pm in the afternoon. The hike down after a big day feels endless. |
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14 22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p9) | 320m | Mt Barney | Sun 10th Oct 2021 | |||||
21 22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p6) | 320m | Mt Barney | Sun 10th Oct 2021 | |||||
17 22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p10) | 320m | Mt Barney | Sun 10th Oct 2021 | |||||
20 | ★★ The Governor p2 | 320m | Mt Barney | Sun 10th Oct 2021 | |||||
Some loose holds, nice flow though.
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21 22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p7) | 320m | Mt Barney | Sun 10th Oct 2021 | |||||
Nice climbing
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20 22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p12) | 320m | Mt Barney | Sun 10th Oct 2021 | |||||
Nice crux
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18 22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p5) | 320m | Mt Barney | Sun 10th Oct 2021 | |||||
18 22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p8) | 320m | Mt Barney | Sun 10th Oct 2021 | |||||
21 22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p11) | 320m | Mt Barney | Sun 10th Oct 2021 | |||||
22 | ★★ The Governor | 320m | Mt Barney | Sun 10th Oct 2021 | |||||
19 22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p1) | 320m | Mt Barney | Average | Sun 10th Oct 2021 | ||||
Don’t use the tree
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20 22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p3) | 320m | Mt Barney | Sun 10th Oct 2021 | |||||
Hard move over ledge, good holds flows
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16 22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p4) | 320m | Mt Barney | Average | Sun 10th Oct 2021 | ||||
22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p14) | 320m | Mt Barney | Sun 10th Oct 2021 | |||||
Didn’t feel the flow
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22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p13) | 320m | Mt Barney | Sun 10th Oct 2021 | |||||
Didn’t feel the flow
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14 22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p15) | 320m | Mt Barney | Sun 10th Oct 2021 | |||||
22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p14) | 320m | Mt Barney | Sun 10th Oct 2021 | |||||
Didn’t feel the flow
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22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p13) | 320m | Mt Barney | Sun 10th Oct 2021 | |||||
Didn’t feel the flow
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14 22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p15) | 320m | Mt Barney | Sun 10th Oct 2021 | |||||
22 |
★★ The Governor
- with
Brennan Bast
| 320m | Mt Barney | ★★★ Classic | Fri 24th Sep 2021 | ||||
Glad I layed off the darts and beers this week because this was a serious undertaking. Not so much the climbing but the long approach in and the walk out, I felt like a new born giraffe by the end of it. Some great pitches and some choss but overall a awesome adventure.
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22 | ★★ The Governor | 320m | Mt Barney | ★ Good | Sun 9th Aug 2009 | ||||
A mountaineering style adventure up through the highest and steepest part of Mt Barney's imposing East Face. This is a very sustained route with very few easy pitches. The individual pitches themselves are also sustained. This route has mega exposure, good falls, and a lot of rotten rock that should make your belayer shake in their pants. At the end of the Governor it will leave you wondering why on earth someone would bolt this line, while you nurse your very sore body.
At points this climb lacks line, but what ever the case it definitely required vision and effort to establish. This highest climb in Queensland is not for your average sport climber, and would best suit those with a sense of adventure and a taste for mountaineering. I half jugged/climbed pitches 13-14 in the dark. The rest was done onsight, with a few dogs, and seconds thrown in. |
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22 | ★★ The Governor p13 | 320m | Mt Barney | Sun 9th Aug 2009 | |||||
Climb up to the right through the rotten rock. Difficult moves through the overhang with good falls, but more terrible rock. Clip a few more bolts and then straight up over a tricky mantle. Here you get the full exposure of the East Face. Continue up to the belay.
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18 | ★★ The Governor p5 | 320m | Mt Barney | Average | Sun 9th Aug 2009 | ||||
Traverse out and up to the right over delicate slabs. Just before the belay beware of the fridge size loose block. Try not to touch it as you climb under it. Small stance at the belay. This pitch requires a confident seconder as the falls would be very exciting for them. Its best not to link the next pitch with this one.
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21 | ★★ The Governor p7 | 320m | Mt Barney | Sun 9th Aug 2009 | |||||
Death blocks, overhangs, and scrubery. Climb up to the roof and clip bolt just over the lip. Don't touch the loose blocks under the overhang unless you want to kill your seconder and yourself. Tricky moves over the roof and continue for a couple of bolts. When it starts to get too vegetated, bust a move out left through the overhang, past your last bolt. From here you should see the belay rings. A few more powerful moves will get you to the semi-hanging belay.
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14 22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p9) | 320m | Mt Barney | Average | Sun 9th Aug 2009 | ||||
The first give-me pitch! Slight traverse out right through vegetation. Beware of ledge fall potential at a few points. The pitch ends at the top of the large centre overhangs a good sized vegetated ledge.
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14 | ★★ The Governor p15 | 320m | Mt Barney | Average | Sun 9th Aug 2009 | ||||
Nice slab climbing to the belay rings. This pitch finishes 2-meters below the bushwalking track.
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20 | ★★ The Governor p2 | 320m | Mt Barney | Average | Sun 9th Aug 2009 | ||||
Head out right around bulge. Climb straight over it if you're feeling strong. Move up over slab and into rotten vertical climbing to rings on a small ledge.
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19 22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p1) | 320m | Mt Barney | Average | Sun 9th Aug 2009 | ||||
Starts nice and hard straight of the deck. Follow bolts up over multiple cruxes to rings on a very small ledge.
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21 22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p6) | 320m | Mt Barney | ★ Good | Sun 9th Aug 2009 | ||||
This pitch has good bolting, nice falls, and wicked exposure. Definitely a stand-out pitch. Climb up through some sustained and interesting vertical face climbing. As always on this route, beware of loose blocks throughout.
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21 22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p11) | 320m | Mt Barney | ★ Good | Sun 9th Aug 2009 | ||||
More tricky climbing that traverses out slight right to a large corner. Some crazy moves will find you on the other side. Continue straight up (next bolt is hidden) to belay rings. As you climb this pitch the Popes Nose bivey ledge is off to the right.
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18 22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p8) | 320m | Mt Barney | Average | Sun 9th Aug 2009 | ||||
Hard moves straight of the deck, with ugly falls if you don't make it to the first bolt. Continue up through some interesting vertical climbing over broken rock. Surprise surprise, beware of more loose rock.
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17 | ★★ The Governor p10 | 320m | Mt Barney | Average | Sun 9th Aug 2009 | ||||
Tricky climbing up to a good belay stance.
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20 22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p3) | 320m | Mt Barney | Average | Sun 9th Aug 2009 | ||||
Follow bolts through two overhangs and slabs in the middle. The first overhang can be easily avoided by climbing right. Belay at small ledge.
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18 | ★★ The Governor p5 | 320m | Mt Barney | Average | Sun 9th Aug 2009 | ||||
Traverse out and up to the right over delicate slabs. Just before the belay beware of the fridge size loose block. Try not to touch it as you climb under it. Small stance at the belay. This pitch requires a confident seconder as the falls would be very exciting for them. Its best not to link the next pitch with this one.
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20 22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p12) | 320m | Mt Barney | Average | Sun 9th Aug 2009 | ||||
Climb up through the corner over a slight overhang. At some points you can climb out right to avoid the difficult parts. Continue to the top over lots of loose rock and vegetation. The next belay stance is a good size located underneath the summit overhangs.
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16 22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p4) | 320m | Mt Barney | Average | Sun 9th Aug 2009 | ||||
This pitch continues up the rock cone then breaks right towards the main face and up a chimney. Beware of loose blocks within the chimney that funnel down onto the two pitches below. Near the top the route breaks out right of the chimney to a ledge with precariously balanced tree.
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22 |
★★ The Governor
- with
Niko Eltarenko
1
lead by
Tom
2
lead by
Niko
3
lead by
Tom
4
lead by
Niko
5
lead by
Tom
6
lead by
Niko
7
lead by
Tom
8
lead by
Niko
9
lead by
Tom
10
lead by
Niko
11
lead by
Tom
12
lead by
Niko
13
lead by
Tom
14
lead by
Niko
15
lead by
Tom
| 320m | Mt Barney | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 22nd Jul 2017 | ||||
To start thanks Lachlan, Ro and Alex for access information, greatly appreciated!
Second: P2 - We attempted to replace one of the mallions, after 30min got 90% of one of the mallions undone and then proceeded to drop vice grips down to the bottom off climb (warning - this means that the mallion is still undone), the new 10mm mallion has been left up there if next party can attempt to undo... Apologies for any inconvenience we where trying to do the correct thing.. Fortunately a small locking biner/ quick draw still fits next to it. P3 - Left 2*10mm mallions attached to old ones P5 - Managed to remove horrendously rusted mallion and replace with new 10mm. For reference - the majority of mallions on climb are 8mm steel... Now for the climb! Where to start! What an adventure had so much fun on this thing! P1 - Not as bad as I was expecting but definitely not a standout pitch. (OS - Lead) P2 - Not super memorable but still fun (OS - TR) P3 - Good climbing - (OS - Lead) P4 - Unmemorable? (OS - TR) P5 - Now where talking lovley face/slab climbing never feeling to hard but exposure creeping up, great fun (OS - Lead) P6 - Don't really remember except I'm glad I wasn't on lead found this really hard and had to fight pretty hard to make it to anchors! (OS - TR) P7 - Yes this pitch is where it started for me, fucking loved it super fun committing boulder problems with alot of air, was so psyched with this pitch!! (OS - Lead) P8 - Good fun climbing (OS - TR) P9 - As per route description give me pitch! (but actually quite fun climbing!) (OS - Lead) P10 - really good climbing, great rock down low with really nice movment. (OS - TR) P11 - Really enjoyed this pitch, kind of sequency but great movment. (OS - Lead) P12 - Really enjoyed climbing on this pitch, shame about crumbling crimps! (OS - TR) P13 - Holy shit I had to fight hard for this one! Don't remember what I did at all coming up out of the over hang of this one except that I don't know how I stayed on haha. Recomposed to see fairly tricky looking slab. Loved it awesome. (OS - Lead) P14 - Good job Niko again glad I wasn't on lead for this one, although really fun endurance climbing followed by some what I found to be extremely strenuous moves (did not feel 22 but fatigue?) into some lovley nice wet moss would of been exciting on lead... (OS-TR) P15 - Auto pilot ran up this. (OS - Lead) What a day 3 hours sleep, 4am started hiking, 9.20am started the route, 5.27pm summit (30min unsuccessfully spent on pitch 2), hugs and a great sunset to finish off a great climb and day! Back to Lower bivy Point by 6.20pm, retrieved rope fed and watered walking out by 7pm back to the car at 10.20pm ish. What a climb and adventure totally recommend it... Thanks Niko for the day out loved it! |
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22 | ★★ The Governor - with Peter Kehoe | 320m | Mt Barney | Sat 9th Sep 2017 | |||||
22 |
★★ The Governor
- with
Gus Mckelvie, StrongmanSam
1
19
25
2
20
25
3
20
20
4
16
25
5
18
15
6
21
20
7
21
20
8
18
20
9
14
25
10
17
15
11
21
20
12
20
20
13
22
20
14
22
20
15
14
30
| 320m | Mt Barney | Tue 2nd May 2023 | |||||
What a lovely day out, bit of choss here and there, some interesting bolt placements and cool exposure up a nice big rock.
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22 |
★★ The Governor
1
19
25m
2
20
25m
3
20
20m
4
16
25m
5
18
15m
6
21
20m
7
21
20m
8
18
20m
9
14
25m
10
17
15m
11
21
20m
12
20
20m
13
22
20m
14
22
20m
15
14
30m
| 320m | Mt Barney | Sun 8th Oct 2023 | |||||
I had a blast on this!
Was so cool to do it as a solo, and so cool just to tick it off. I've written up a bit about it, there's a link below if you're interested! https://docs.google.com/document/d/1KaaosgCXBkD4ZvB9Sgwg6cACZ0z10sqzQhgyfCXCN28/edit?usp=sharing |
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22 | ★★ The Governor | 320m | Mt Barney | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 14th Aug 2020 | ||||
22 |
★★ The Governor
1
19
2
20
3
20
4
16
5
18
6
21
7
21
8
18
9
14
10
17
11
21
12
20
13
22
14
22
15
14
| 320m | Mt Barney | ★★★ Classic | Sat 10th Oct 2020 | ||||
22 |
★★ The Governor
- with
Antoine Chandonnet
| 320m | Mt Barney | ★★ Very Good | Sat 18th Jul 2020 | ||||
One of the most enjoyable days climbing I've ever had. Big thanks to Chando for the superb company! It's obviously important to have a strong partner, but equally if not more important to have a super positive one!
Rock quality & bolting: Found the danger/scary reputation to be quite over hyped. Imo this climb is well bolted. There are a few chossy holds, and we both ripped a few pieces off, but I don't think this characteristic alone should dissuade future punters from getting on it. The climbing: Pitch one gives a good reflection for the rest of the route, a surprising reliance on slabby/precise footwork and edging. Antoine and I found that we settled into the 'style' of the route after about 3/4 pitches, from this point forward, our climbing became a lot more fluent. The Strategy: Took two packs up to the rap in, left one there with water and food for the descent. For the climbing, we opted for the kirkpatrick approach and took one pack that was carried by the second. We found this to be quite a psychological boon, as it made the leads super appealing! 2L water each, left 2L at the rap in. If you're set on onsighting the whole thing (which is surprisingly achievable) haul the pack for the crux pitches and maybe pitch 2 (I found the pack makes stepping around the bulge difficult). Timings: 02:00 awake. 03:00 start hiking. 05:00 arrived at rap in. 07:00 started climbing. 13:00 topped out. 16:00 back at carpark. |
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22 |
★★ The Governor
- with
Jess
1
19
25m
2
20
25m
3
20
20m
4
16
25m
5
18
15m
6
21
20m
7
21
20m
8
18
20m
9
14
25m
10
17
15m
11
21
20m
12
20
20m
13
22
20m
14
22
20m
15
14
30m
| 320m | Mt Barney | ★★★ Classic | Thu 8th Jul 2021 | ||||
What an amazing achievement it is to have found and developed this route, deserves all the stars for such a unique line something quite rare in Australia, that actually climbs really well! First few pitches where sub par and I truly disliked the 1st pitch, though the higher you got the rock quality was amazing with fun delicate movement & more jammys then I was expecting
Although this is a sports route, it is very much a mountain climb and shouldn’t be taken lightly, with knowledge of mountain climbing and a traditional background recommended - bolting causes some bad fall potential in areas an it’s definitely R on some pitches, though I felt well protected for the most part and the choss is easily avoided if you take you time looking for the right holds This route is only going to get better the more it’s frequent Psyched! We did the route in 10pitches and I was very happy with a fall free day, on the summit at 330pm started heading down just after 420... |
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22 |
★★ The Governor
- with
Bryn Norris
1
19
25m
2
20
25m
3
20
20m
4
16
25m
5
18
15m
6
21
20m
7
21
20m
8
18
20m
9
14
25m
10
17
15m
11
21
20m
12
20
20m
13
22
20m
14
22
20m
15
14
30m
| 320m | Mt Barney | Mon 22nd May 2023 | |||||
What an absurd adventure that will stick with me for the rest of my life! We both expected this route to be demanding and boy did it exceed all expectations. The early march up the mountain was really stunning, watching the layers of mountains slowly appear around us.
The route threw in its fair share of challenges, with a few crimps exploding here and there, but overall, it was epic. I found pitch 5 and 6 incredibly fun… traversing out into the abyss and gaining the odd jug to be able to turn around and bathe in the exposure, and then punching up into some great solid moves. Unreal. To go from a totally unseasoned gym climber a couple of years ago and hearing about this mega, seemingly unattainable route, to gaining enough experience to get up it, was a very surreal moment for me. Big ups to Bryn for being a weapon of a partner to train and execute this with! |
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22 |
★★ The Governor
2
20
25m
4
16
25m
6
21
20m
7
21
20m
10
17
15m
11
21
20m
14
22
20m
15
14
30m
| 320m | Mt Barney | ★ Good | Wed 23rd Jun 2021 | ||||
Great position and adventure, terrible rock climb. Pitch 13 was the worst rock on the route and simultaneously the physical crux. I blew 5 footholds and evie ripped both handholds at the same time. This section felt 2 grades harder than pitch 14 and the friable rock made it harder again. All in all we had a wonderful day out and were completely knackered on return to the cars.
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22 |
★★ The Governor
- with
Kallin Willis
| 320m | Mt Barney | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 23rd Aug 2021 | ||||
Phenomenal adventure! Camped the night before the abseil. Such an epic place to wake up and start climbing.
Thanks Alex Mougenot for the beta to hit that first shiny bolt! Saved us so much time and wouldn't have been as successful with out ya. Its still quite an amazing adventure to get your way there. Cheers! From the abseil to the nice and shiny first bolt (stoked to find this so quickly) took about 45min till the path ran out. P1 18 - quirky start with small feet and wandered a bit. P2 20 - bit loose in sections and a nice warm up P3 20 - bit of a gross mantle P4 16 - felt like a bolted trad pitch, a nice adventure route. P5 18 - stellar traverse, solid and nice and airy P6 21 - lets add some more air and get the pump going, enjoyed this P7 21 - Peri Peri! Bit tricky to read but great fun P8 18 - fridge? P9 14 - adventure P10 17 - Great views of of the ridgelines P11 21 - Legendary! Has to be experienced to be believed P12 20 - more spice than P11. Still a bit hollow in spots, was waiting for that crimp to blow but it held on! tough. P13 22 - phoar!!!! Loved this pitch....wasabi! P14 22 - Best air on the climb, mint...that bucket was unexpected p15 14 - I ran up this pitch I was so happy. Yeoooooooow! Looks like there could be some new lines or variations to the route that would go down in such a stellar position in south east Queensland. |
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22 |
★★ The Governor
- with
Joshua Malherbe
| 320m | Mt Barney | Mon 31st Jul 2023 | |||||
Wasn't as hard to find as I thought, path seems pretty well defined at this point. Pitch seven was amazing, such awesome exposure. Also loved how much slab was on this climb absolutely epic!
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22 | ★★ The Governor | 320m | Mt Barney | ★ Good | Thu 11th Aug 2022 | ||||
I wasnt mentally prepared for just how rotten the rock was going to be. it makes the worse honeycombed sandstone choss look good. the rock brakes in big blocks and on little crimps and edges despite how much traffic it seems to get. there was a party below who knocked a few larger sized blocks off which was a bit exciting. luckily we didnt pull any blocks off. not as exposed as i was hoping, was mostly slabby and ledgy. pitch lengths were also shorter than on the crag. when we were linking pitches we werent get much past halfway on a 70m. a rough guess might be closer to 250m. i think what makes this climb good is the prominence to the surrounding land and the sufferfest that is the approach. would recommend to those seeking an all included adventure
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22 | ★★ The Governor - with hipyhop | 320m | Mt Barney | ★★★ Classic | Sat 6th Jun 2020 | ||||
Wow, what an incredible route and all round experience! Huge thanks to hipyhop for a perfect day out.
This was our third attempt to do The Governor this past year; the first two attempts aborted due to high-precipitation soaking the rock overnight. Therefore, some weather beta: Mt Barney's summit seems to have a micro-climate. If you are aiming to do The Governor and the forecast is cloudy with high-humidity, best to skip it and wait for a clear, still night. From our experience, any clouds on the summit overnight == soaked rock in the morning. The Governor might be a "sport" climb on The Crag but I'd say this is an adventure style route. Expect a long, arduous day with a 1100 vertical meter approach + descent, 12-16 hours min if doing it without camping/bivvying, loose rock, dynamic weather, hand/foot holds popping regularly plus lots of sustained climbing. Rescue skills like prussiking and z-drags are important to have and I'd recommend taking a PLB if you have one (just in case). In summary, it's a challenging and beautiful Tasmanian-esque adventure in SE Queensland! Get on it, it's awesome. |
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23 22 | ★★ The Governor - with Liamtemp | 320m | Mt Barney | ★★ Very Good | Wed 3rd Aug 2022 | ||||
Awesome day out with Liamtemp and my second time up The Gov. There are some superb climbing sequences amongst all the dodgy rock
Started climbing sometime before 9am and topped out at 3pm; so roughly 6-6.5 hours on the route. We divvied up the leading as follows: P1 Liam, P2+3 Matt (Linked), P4+5 Liam (Linked), P6 Matt, P7 Liam, P8+9+10 Matt (Linked), P11 Liam, P12 Matt, P13+14 Liam (Linked), P15 Matt. Lastly, pitch 13 is stiff at the grade and in my opinion deserving of grade 23. I pulled through draws on 2nd for this pitch to save time but everything else done clean. |
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22 |
★★ The Governor
- with
Alex Mougenot
| 320m | Mt Barney | ★★★ Classic | Mon 30th Sep 2019 | ||||
22 | ★★ The Governor - with nathaniel glavurdic | 320m | Mt Barney | ★★★ Classic | Mon 8th Aug 2022 | ||||
22 | ★★ The Governor - with Matthew Robbins | 320m | Mt Barney | Sun 3rd Jul 2022 | |||||
22 |
★★ The Governor
- with
Dylan Glavas
1
19
25m
2
20
25m
3
20
20m
4
16
25m
5
18
15m
6
21
20m
7
21
20m
8
18
20m
9
14
25m
10
17
15m
11
21
20m
12
20
20m
13
22
20m
14
22
20m
15
14
30m
| 320m | Mt Barney | ★★★ Classic | Mon 12th Sep 2022 | ||||
... What Dylan said..
What an epic mission. First time touching Barney rock, straight onto the East Face. Beautiful climbing on better than anticipated rock, with incredible exposure and surroundings! Some of the coolest moves I've done on a multi- standout has to be the bouldery moves on the 21 pitch! Had me whooping with glee. Sustained climbing throughout the 22's as well! Props too Dylan for leading the first, that was heinous with the bag. Beautiful day out on one of the best faces in Queensland, what a day. I'm still not a fan of hiking though.. |
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22 | ★★ The Governor - with Chris Ahlgren | 320m | Mt Barney | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 20th Nov 2016 | ||||
Lead odds, seconded evens. Climbed in just under seven hours, car to car a little under sixteen. Incredible...
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22 | ★★ The Governor - with Alex Mougenot | 320m | Mt Barney | Sat 25th Sep 2021 | |||||
Shenanigans
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22 |
★★ The Governor
- with
Oscar Bassi
| 320m | Mt Barney | ★★ Very Good | Mon 23rd Aug 2021 | ||||
What a wicked adventure this climb is and kudos to the blokes that bolted it. Such a stellar climb in a unique location. Some pitches were a bit average with rock quality but that just added to the fun. The top half of the route is by far the most interesting but the lower pitches are unique in their own way. Took us about 7hrs to do the climb, we did it in 9 pitches with a 60m rope.
Happy to say I only took 1 rest on the rope seconding the 1st 22 pitch (pitch 13), and oh boy what a spicy pitch it is!! A couple pitches feel a bit shorter then what is suggested but the rest seem to be on the money in that regard. This adventure was as difficult as I thought it would be with regards to logistics, timing, mental commitment and shear physical effort. But bloody hell it is well worth it all when you hit those top chains |
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22 |
★★ The Governor
- with
Nick Gresham
1
19
25m
2
20
25m
3
20
20m
4
16
25m
5
18
15m
6
21
20m
7
21
20m
8
18
20m
9
14
25m
10
17
15m
11
21
20m
12
20
20m
13
22
20m
14
22
20m
15
14
30m
| 320m | Mt Barney | Mon 31st Jul 2023 | |||||
More french than free! I blame the bag. Honestly the climbing was not as hard as the walk down. My legs are shaking even thinking about it.
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22 | ★★ The Governor - with Tom Cramer | 320m | Mt Barney | ★★ Very Good | Sat 4th Jul 2015 | ||||
A good day out. Definitely get your adventure climbing head on for this one. Climbed with Tom Cramer. Mostly clean except for the Gr 22 pitches - felt hard at the end of the day - a couple of rests here and there. Wasn't as chossy as many trip reports would have had us believe. Left the Yellowpinch car park at 6am - climbing by 9am. 6.5 hours climbing.
Leads: P1 - Jayd. P2 - Tom. P3&4 link - Jayd. P5 - Tom. P6&7 link - Tom. P8&9&10 mega link - Jayd. P11&12 link - Jayd. P13&14&15 link - Tom. |
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22 | ★★ The Governor - with Daygin Prescott | 320m | Mt Barney | Don't Bother | Wed 16th Aug 2023 | ||||
Bigwall style.
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22 |
★★ The Governor
1
19
25m
2
20
25m
3
20
20m
4
16
25m
5
18
15m
6
21
20m
7
21
20m
8
18
20m
9
14
25m
10
17
15m
11
21
20m
12
20
20m
13
22
20m
14
22
20m
15
14
30m
| 320m | Mt Barney | Fri 7th Jul 2023 | |||||
found the two crux pitches hard and terrifying, seductive problem solving tho
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22 | ★★ The Governor | 320m | Mt Barney | ★★ Very Good | May 2010 | ||||
22 | ★★ The Governor - with Trent Williams, David Biggs, Andrew Grosser | 320m | Mt Barney | ★★ Very Good | Wed 8th Jul 2009 | ||||
23 |
★★ The Governor
- with
Yim
1
19
25
lead by
Yim
2
20
25
lead by
Yim
Tough bulge moves
5
18
15
lead by
Yim
7
21
20
lead by
Hyahno Moser
Loved this pitch, such crazy moves in such an amazing location. Couldn't believe my body doing these moves. Awesome
8
18
20
lead by
Yim
9
14
25
lead by
Yim
10
17
15
lead by
Yim
13
23
20
lead by
Yim
Really ramped up the intensity here. I fell off the traverse, landed 3m below the roof 280m up. Wooohooo
14
22
20
lead by
Yim
Lovely holds awkward moves, cool position | 320m | Mt Barney | ★★ Very Good | Sun 8th Oct 2023 | ||||
22 |
★★ The Governor
- with
Matthew Robbins
| 320m | Mt Barney | ★★ Very Good | Sat 6th Jun 2020 | ||||
It was great to get this done after two false-starts due to unexpected weather conditions. This time the planets aligned and conditions were as good as they could be.
We opted for a later start and a more relaxed morning, and rapped in at 7:45 and set off climbing at 8:30. Thanks to all the beta on here, we had no trouble finding the first bolt. We savoured the moment and took our time on the climb and topped out just under 8 hours later. One hang on the rope on pitch 6, and a spot of french-free style to speed up pitch 13 . Big props to Matthew Robbins for leading the crux pitch 14. Most pitch lengths are over estimated or correct, we didn't feel any pitches were longer than described. |
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22 | ★★ The Governor | 320m | Mt Barney | Tue 4th Oct 2022 | |||||
Good climbing. Got charged by a pair of possums screaming war cries on the way down, pretty hilarious experience.
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22 |
★★ The Governor
- with
Tim Janetzki, Samuel Gough
1
19
25
2
20
25
3
20
20
4
16
25
5
18
15
6
21
20
7
21
20
8
18
20
9
14
25
10
17
15
11
21
20
12
20
20
13
22
20
14
22
20
15
14
30
| 320m | Mt Barney | ★★ Very Good | Mon 1st May 2023 | ||||
First multi-pitch and what an introduction! Huge thanks to Sam and Tim for taking me up this beautiful mountain! Just a fantastic experience! Even while seconding the whole route while in well over my head. There is definitely some choss to be found but overall a great time.
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22 | ★★ The Governor | 320m | Mt Barney | Don't Bother | Tue 25th Aug 2009 | ||||
22 |
★★ The Governor (The Governor Linkup 2+3)
- with
Sean Peters
1
lead by
Sean
2
linkup 2+3
, lead by
Elias
3
lead by
Elias
4
lead by
Sean
5
linkup 5+6
, lead by
Elias
6
lead by
Elias
7
linkup 7+8
, lead by
Elias
8
lead by
Elias
9
lead by
Sean
10
linkup 10+11
, lead by
Elias
11
lead by
Elias
12
linkup 12+13
, lead by
Elias
13
lead by
Elias
14
lead by
Elias
15
lead by
Sean
| 320m | Mt Barney | Tue 12th Sep 2017 | |||||
Sean basically has already said all in his comment. I'm glad we've done it, but I'd surely not do it again. If you're seeking a long, adventurous day with some alpine characteristics, go for it.
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22 |
★★ The Governor
- with
Lee Prescott
1
19
25m
2
20
25m
3
20
20m
4
16
25m
5
18
15m
6
21
20m
7
21
20m
8
18
20m
9
14
25m
10
17
15m
11
21
20m
12
20
20m
13
22
20m
14
22
20m
15
14
30m
| 320m | Mt Barney | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 12th Sep 2022 | ||||
WOOOOOOOOO! Fucking mega classic what an adventure. Rocked up back in Brissie and the day after straight into a solid white rock session. Sent hard, mega pub feed after then did out shopping.
Rocked up at yellow pinch carpark around 10/11pm and had a somewhat decent sleep on boulder mats under a full moon. The hype was real and it was intensifying. 5am wakeup, 6 hours sleep, being sore from the day before, a strong cup of prison blend, half a sub and racking our gear later we started walking around 620ish. Lee's first time up Barney so was tricked by every false peak, as we walked up we awed at the possible first ascents along the boulders on our way up, good times. The hype was real once reaching the drop off point, we ended up reaching the base of the climb at 10am. The "wooos!" were loud and we were stoked we had an amphitheater to cheer us right back on. Straight into it with the 19, we learnt early that seconding with the bag SUCKS! Super good climbing from the get go, loved every pitch and to be honest the rock quality was not all that bad, too be fair it has been trafficked long before our ascent, still had to trundle one last death block around pitch 7. We linked pitches 2-3, 4-5, 8-9, 10-11, 12-13 & 14-15. The pitches individually are really short and most of them can be linked easily. Standouts were the exposed boulder problem, the general exposure on the above belay, the solid crimpy climbing (all of it) and the gr 22 pitches. I had to fight for that first 22, had to do a big slap to the slopey shit over the lip and fully commit & even then it's not over! Seconding the second 22 was fucked, due to my error, coming around that first corner you need to reach up into a slot, I missed that slot and hit a razor sharp sloper, bearable but not for long... I go with my other hand for the slot, miss again and hit more razor sharp sloper, I kept slipping and slipping but no fucking chance I was letting go this far in!! Through persistence and psattt I finally got the slot while almost peeling off into the exposure below me, I trusted a slopey footer and pushed up to stand on a rest halfway into the pitch. More technical climbing ahead! Topping out (near 5pm) was super satisfying, our success echoed through the couloir, Lee's firs time topping barney was via the east face, so sick. Sweet, now the walk back down, took for ever! Bit of ticker needed to get us back down that hill jeesus! We talked about how much food we were gonna eat and how fucking rewarding it would be. We hit the cars pull out the boulder mats, sit down, smash a 1/4 of a sub and some tofu scramble and just, be. 111/10 what a time with a good mate. Will be back on this face in the future. Stoked! Very visionary to bolt this line on such a daunting face, good effort and much appreciated. |
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22 |
★★ The Governor
- with
Dimo
| 320m | Mt Barney | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 28th May 2020 | ||||
This route took me 3 attempts to find the frist bolt. In the process I almost lost a mate and managed to return some of Steve Turners gear to his family. It has been a journey and I've seen that this mountain is forever changing! The crux of this climb is the logistics of the approach and desent. One slip due to fatigue or haste in the wrong place could spell disaster. Huge respect for the route setters, what an undertaking!
The climb is well bolted and easy to follow except for the crux of pitch 14 which has a hidden bolt above the overhang to the left. Additional Approach Beta: After ascending the S.E Ridge boulder problem, turn right at the obvious camp site. Follow the face down and rapell 35m approx. Once on the scree slope, head left and along the bottom of the face for 50m to the obvious end. Head out left over the boulder and up onto the vegetated ledge where the bolt is 10m along and 3m up. |
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22 |
★★ The Governor
- with
Ryan Siacci
| 320m | Mt Barney | ★★ Very Good | Sat 3rd Oct 2020 | ||||
We approached The Governor with few expectations, other than anticipating a long day and perhaps some hard climbing near the top. I'm well chuffed with the outcome, with both of us onsighting every pitch and topping out after just 5.5 hours of climbing. We didn't really try to move fast or cut any corners, but nevertheless everything went super smoothly. All told, we needed 12 hours to get up and down, leaving Barney Lodge at 3am and arriving back at 3pm, all while taking a comfy break for lunch on the summit and two breaks to brew coffee.
This was a special experience in so many ways, particularly because Ryan and I assumed that it wouldn't happen this season after I busted my ankle in late July. Fortunately, recovery has been effective, and the ankle felt stable all day. Overall, a great experience with a great friend - thanks Ryan for an amazing day out (and for gifting me the crux pitches while carrying the pack)! |
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22 |
★★ The Governor
- with
Angie
| 320m | Mt Barney | ★★ Very Good | Sun 11th Oct 2020 | ||||
Wild day out with my awesome friend Angie!
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22 |
★★ The Governor
- with
jaime toro
5
18
15m
6
21
20m
lead by
jaime toro
7
21
20m
lead by
jaime toro
10
17
15m
lead by
jaime toro
11
21
20m
lead by
jaime toro
12
20
20m
lead by
jaime toro
13
22
20m
lead by
Daniel Razzino
Tough one to onsight dropped it right at the last mantle the very technical The roof part below was choss bricks
14
22
20m
lead by
jaime toro
15
14
30m
lead by
jaime toro
| 320m | Mt Barney | Sun 20th Aug 2023 | |||||
We linked pitches 1-2 3-4 6-7 8-9 10-11 12-13 14-15
The mantel on pitch 13 is very technical Was abit hot today foot were on fire by the top Good day out was 13 hours car to car and we wastes about 2 hours looking for rap and start of the route |
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22 |
★★ The Governor
- with
Josiah Hess, me, dani hess
3
20
20m
4
16
25m
7
21
20m
8
18
20m
11
21
20m
12
20
20m
| 320m | Mt Barney | ★★ Very Good | Sat 29th Jul 2023 | ||||
22 |
★★ The Governor
- with
Brosnan Degenaar
| 320m | Mt Barney | ★★★ Classic | Sat 15th Oct 2022 | ||||
Far out, what a massive day out!
It took a total of 16 hours from car to car. We started hiking at 5am and got to the rappel station at about 7:15. Chilled out, had some food and went down to the base for an 8:30 start. We expected to top out by about 4pm but life had other plans and we ended up topping out at 5:45. Seeing the sunset from the top of Mount Barney was so beautiful but hiking back down in the dark was not ideal. We got back to the car at 9:15 after about 3 hours of hiking (and getting lost a couple of times). We were exhausted and sore but filled to the brim with stoke. Simply amazing. The climbing: The crux pitch was definitely the walk-in. Hiking up with 10kg of gear and water each was a struggle. We linked pitches 2-3, 4-5, 8-9, 10-11, 12-13, and 14-15. We only had trouble linking 2-3 because I ran out of draws just 2 bolts below the anchor. 16 draws just wasn't quite enough. Linking pitches 10-11 was necessary due to one of the quicklinks at the top of pitch 10 having a hole rusted through it. There was no way I'd set up a belay on that. The rock was ok for the most part, but some bad rock caused me to have a mad whipper while seconding on pitch 7. I called for some slack and climbed up into the overhang. I was sorting out my feet to get a sick drop knee and reach over the lip to get ready to mantle. All of a sudden, the hold keeping me into the wall exploded and I launched off, with all the slack leaving me hanging upside down with my head in a bush. Luckily I wasn't injured and I was able to make the mantle without that hold. I was a bit shaken and let Bros lead the next couple of pitches while I settled down. That was the most excitement I've ever had on a top rope, that's for sure! Other than that, there was some beautiful climbing to be done all throughout. Lots of slab, lots of sharp crimps, plenty of exposure and some amazing boulder moves mixed in. The standouts for me were the pitch 5 traverse with its great views and exposure, and pitch 11 with its super cool traversing moves over the void. I think pitch 14 would have been spectacular climbing, except the entire corner leading up to the third bolt was soaking wet. It took a tough bit of French aiding to get past that but then it was a sprint to the top on the last pitch. I reached the anchor and immediately felt such relief that we'd actually done it! The stoke is unmatched but the pain will keep me away, at least for a little while. |
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22 | ★★ The Governor | 320m | Mt Barney | ★★ Very Good | Sat 25th Jul 2020 | ||||
22 | ★★ The Governor - with Lachlan | 320m | Mt Barney | ★★ Very Good | Sun 20th Nov 2016 | ||||
Every inch of my body hurts today, but damn it was worth it. Psych couldn't have been higher as I clipped the chains after climbing the final pitch of 22 onsight. Thought the corner at the start of p12 was especially fun. The crux is not the climbing itself put pulling those moves with raw fingers and screaming toes at the end of such a long day. Pulled on some draws when seconding cause I'm a lazy bastard.
Swung leads with Lachie. He took odds I took evens. Severely botched the approach. Took us 5 hours! Managed to do the climb in just under 7hrs. Car to car in 15.5 hours. 2 shattered men. |