Routes in Maggie's Farm for selected grade

At the top of the gully: A little wall with a good fist corner in the middle.

1. 20m Up blocks for 20m to ledge & belay.

2. 20m Up steep RH crack from the ledge.

Can be done in one pitch.

First 20m or pitch; as for Minute Man, then the second half up the perfect fist crack corner to top.

A three star route!

Start: At the flakes 6-8m R of Magician behind small tree.

1. Grovel up the flaring vegetated off-width (nasty start), and into chimney, then more grovelling up this. Step back L into the crack proper and follow to small niche above. Climb thru this & follow steep cracks to below loose flakes, up these & belay on loose pillar.

2. Climb corner & down L to TB and rap.

"To the left of Tough Mamma is Dragon Woman 20, by Kevin Pearl & Fred From, which goes through a small roof." (Thrutch mag #72 Sept/Oct 1977)

The thin crack immediately Left of Little Queen. Up this, through the small rooflet.

To avoid the tough direct start, take the overhanging flake/crack & step R into chimney and grovel up this.

Rest as per Enduro.

Start: On the pillar below Wounded Bird, split by a hand crack.

Take the Left crack of the hand cracks. A hard start leads to a scrubby top-out.

Initialed: "V"

Up the Left facing corner. Hard technical laybacking.

History: first spotted & named by Ted Cais in '72.