Routes in Maggie's Farm for selected grade

Start: LH column.

Tricky move to the first FH, then hard moves to the 2nd FH (crux), up past a 3rd FH to a horizontal crack, tricky moves up to a bolt on the LHS of the arête, then cruise up to top and TB 5m behind pillar.

(FHs marked on topo. Horizontal break at 3/4 height is good for medium sized cams.)

A crack somewhere here.

"At Maggie's Farm, McGregor has added Broken Wings 22."

(Thrutch mag #69 Nov/Dec 1976.)

The thin crack just Left of TM. Up this to ledge & TB.

Done by Coral Bowman (US) in 1977, likely the first female ascent at this grade in AU.

"Egg Everett & Rick White did Black Magic Woman 22, Right of Tough Mamma."

(Thrutch mag #72 Sept/Oct 1977.)

(Possibly the thin crack 1m Right of TM?)

Start: On the large flake at the base of the RH column.

Up to a bolt at 3m height, hard climbing past another bolt to a good horizontal crack, up the thin face, passing a FH to the next horizontal crack, then past a bolt to the top and DBB.

(Small to medium sized cams.)

Start: Below yellow corner; straight crack, Left of Asps Only. Intimidating crackline.