Ascents in Mt Ninderry

New rig. One section I can't do, even off the rope. Yay!

Learned a bit more on the crux. I don't think you're going to be able to avoid pulling like a demon. It's gunna be haaaard!

End of day. Skin gone by this stage. No hope.

Waterfall when we arrived. Sacrificed a block of chalk and JJ's facecloth trying to dry it. Luckily the wind picked up.

Finally figured out what to do on the crux. It's not very straightforward.

Really cool low dyno (unless you're Long-arms Schimke), then a baffling upper crux which I solved with some knee-trickery. Hard to grade as the sequence is short, but hard/bizarre. It goes without saying the chalked holds way out right on Harvey Wallbanger are not in. [6]

Did not work out the crux, and would take a few more shots to gain the power to get through it. Awesome moves on solid rock, good project for the future.

Worked out crux. YAH

Back on it. Figured out crux using a completely different sequence than last time. Kneescum above your head sort of move. It got too hot for a second shot.

First shot in a while! Not sure what to make of this shot. I can do up to the crux no problem at all (24 to here??) and can do the crux, but not every time. I tried the crux about 10 times and only did the moves about 4 of those times. It is very tempting to move right a move onto the jugs on HW, but it is a cool sequence of bouldering doing it direct and great training so I should stick at it!

Put the draws on and had two good shots. Highpoint is getting to the crux and putting in knee scum and going for the first of the 3 move crux. Getting stronger at pulling the crux, and can do it most times I try it now. One of those routes that could take another 2 shots, or 20, just depends if that bloody knee scum keeps still and doesn't always pop!

Woohoo! Hardest route outside of Coolum. I got some beta to try different kneepads, so did just that and it made all the difference for that shitty knee scum at the crux. Climbed the route direct as Lee did, and glad I did. Just like a lot of the harder routes at Ninderry, they can be a bit contrived so no classic from me. Probably low end 29, but how would I know considering its my first 29 face climb? (9)

I thought I'd try something really hard. I never stuck the dyno down low, but I did throw to the right height, so it feels feasible. The real problem is the crux. Very bouldery, never really made any progess on it.

Hard as heck, would need a lot of work to get this one.

Awesome! Cool techie sequence moving left with long moves. I didn't clip the carrot. I moved left at the top, rather than using the matchbox hold - felt like 29 this way. 2nd go. Thanks for the suggestions, development and beta Cal!

Started up this thinking it was nitro having not tried these climbs before, made it through the first three bolts no worries but figured after the dyno that it was not the right climb so bailed off the fourth bolt.

Pretty wild move. Didn’t stick it, but I think I know what I need to do.

Two shots, came off the crux near the top which wasnt bad. Good shot really. I love this climb, little pearler.

3 more goes. High point was sticking the top undercling and getting my feet up, but my core just failed.

Two shots, in the blazing sun.

Two shots after a LONG break from it. Not so bad, but definately need to get my fingers back into crimp mode again!

Put the draws on, and then had a good shot. Equal highpoint. Grabbed undercling, and missed bringing my right foot up and fell. Pulled back on and through to the top.

Same stuff, different day... Put draws on and had one RP shot. Highpoint, with quite literally missing the last hold of the crux (foot skated off or something). It'll go.

Two RP burns today. Set in Stone was filming so had to give it a good go! Both shots equal highpoint, but a small mistake made me come off. This route is great power endurance training.

Really nice bouldery route with 2 cruxy sections. 9 shots

3 goes last weekend, 3 goes this weekend. Highpoint snatching the LH undercling up top, punt then to top clean. Good route. Zaps you quick!

Fail day. bad conditions both weather and body. 2 shots. Duncan has broken RH sidepull above the glued ice cube pinch. its smaller but still works. need to be more accurate now.

Good today, new beta for the top which is more foot moves but more controlled. Feeling good about this climb! It's great

4 shots, second go I thought I was doing it. Felt awesome. so awesome I undercooked the move to the undercling and missed it. 3rd go my index missed the boat on the matchbox, 4th go I melted off the first boulder.

highpoint.. got the L undercling, sucked L foot up and as I stood up it zinged off the hold. doh

same highpoint, tried to lift foot really slow but no good. somewhere in between will be the money. after that, skipped the first boulder, and went from the slopey jug rail to the anchor clean. getting there.

3 goes, 3 same highpoint.. realised im not trusting the glass footer and its messing up my jam. this route is a bastard. i like it

Almost. though it feels like almost could be forever.

A couple of weeks off, great conditions and a camera in my face and it's done. First shot managed the 'stand up' crux, and fell going to RH side pull. Made my brain happy to get past the barrier. Next shot hung on for dear life to the end! Beer time.

What a line! Did all the moves on both dogs. Cool strong moves on small holds all the way to the anchors!

Refinements.

I can do all the moves now. Long way from sending but happy with the progress. The moves are cool! 3 shots today.

Made it through to the matchbox and was throwing for the undercling when I came off.

Made it through the low crux but was really spent. It's a tiring route.