Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Southern ACT Closed Michelago | |||||
18 | New Leaf
| 10m | |||
22 | ★ Going Fishing
| 20m | |||
22 | ★ Mean Disposition
| 20m | |||
24 | ★ Sidewinder
| 15m | |||
23 | ★ Hollow and Naked
| 15m | |||
21 | ★ Chocolate to the Bone
| 10m | |||
23 | Bebop Bimbo
| 10m | |||
20 | New Addiction
| 10m | |||
28 | ★ (unnamed route)
| 15m | |||
28 | ★★ Sustainiac
| 20m | |||
26 | ★★★ Ragged Glory
| 25m | |||
20 | Creatures from the Back Saloon
| 20m | |||
22 | Check Out Time
| 15m | |||
21 | Get Shorty
| 15m | |||
23 | Coral Cuts
| 12m | |||
25 | ★ Random Hamsters
| 15m | |||
25 | ★ Two for Tufas at Two
| 20m | |||
23 | ★ Lucky Strikes
| 20m | |||
20 | ★ Master Charge
| 25m | |||
18 | Pat's Route
| 25m | |||
16 | La Dalle Salle
| 20m | |||
20 | ★ Dry Spell
| 15m | |||
20 | Fattening Frogs Snakes
| 10m | |||
21 | ★ King Biscuit Time
| 10m | |||
Southern ACT Mount Scabby | |||||
16 | In Absentia
The only route on 'Hardman's Wall'. Start near the right side of the wall at a corner below a bush. climb up the corner, then left and up to a narrow ledge. Move leftwards along this ledge, then up where it steepens to some cracks. Easily leftwards to the top. FA: Richard Howes, Ed Garnett & Greg Pritchard, 1981 | 25m | |||
12 | Thunderthighs
Starts at a niche in the slab and wall at the base of 'Blackhand Gully', 50 metres left of 'Watermelon in Easter Hay'.
FA: Adrian Wing, Paul Daniel & Roe Fisk, 1980 | 70m | |||
18 | After the Rain
Takes the overlaps at the left end of the cliff. Start 10 metres left of 'Tor' at a little bushy ledge. Steep climbing slightly right to a bolt then follow good holds trending left, exiting delicately up the slab. Take some small wires. FA: Adam Blizzard & Robyn Cleland, 1986 | 35m, 1 | |||
19 | Tor
Start 15 metres left of 'Watermelon in Easter Hay', left of a large flake.
FA: Peter Hopkins & Robyn Cleland, 1986 | 85m | |||
23 | ★ Aquila
Wall climbing up the prominent and steep water streak five metres left of 'Watermelon in Easter Hay'. Up past two bolts and numerous wire placements, trending slightly left after the second bolt. Belay as for 'Tor'. FA: Adam Blizzard & Neil Montgomery, 1989 | 40m, 2 | |||
18 | Watermelon in Easter Hay Variant
Instead of moving left into the corner, go straight up the waterstreak. A poor bolt was used on the first ascent, but was removed afterwards! FA: Andrew Montgomery & Neil Montgomery, 1983 | 45m | |||
19 | ★ Watermelon in Easter Hay
Takes the overlap high on the wall. Start 10 metres left of 'Misogyny'.
FA: Roark Muhlen, George Catchpoole & John Hartley, 1980 | 65m | |||
17 | ★ Flashback
Start five metres left of 'Misogyny'. Up past two little flakes to a ledge. Climb the steep slab above, onto easy ground. danger The crux is unprotected. FA: Neil Montgomery & Adam Blizzard, 1988 | 40m | |||
13 | Misogyny Direct Finish
From the first belay, continue left from the steep, leftwars slanting crack on the second pitch, and up the wall past an overhang to a ledge. Up the wall behind the ledge. FA: Paul Daniel, Pat Meaney, Tim Chapman & Ron Levy, 1981 | 45m | |||
14 | Misogyny
Quite good, reminiscent of 'Counterbalance'. Start beneath a steep slab 20 metres left of 'Pasqua', about five metres left of a dark water-mark.
FA: Adrian Wing, Paul Daniel (var.) & Roe Fisk, 1980 | 90m | |||
12 | Sally
Nice climbing on good pockets on an otherwise smooth slab. Takes a direct line up the prominent dark water streak midway between 'Pasqua' and 'Misogyny'. Walk off left from the belay. FA: Neil Montgomery, Adam Blizzard & Richard Mintern, 1989 | 40m | |||
11 | Belaying Eagles
A pleasant alternative to the upper pitches of 'Pasqua'. Start from the second belay on 'Pasqua'.
FA: Bill Schuller & Janet Morley, 1980 | 70m | |||
12 | ★★ Pasqua
Pleasant. Start just left of a wide, dirty corner some 50 metres up and left from 'Pamella'.
FA: Paul Daniel & Catherine McCammon, 1979 | 110m | |||
12 | ★ Interface
Ascends the steep, broken area of rock in the middle of the cliff. Start 10 metres left and up from the first belay on 'Pamella'.
FA: Paul Daniel, Bill Schuller & Henk Van Wezel, 1980 | 60m | |||
17 | Pamella Direct Start
The obvious direct start through the bulge. FA: Unknown, 1987 | 25m | |||
10 | Pamella
The start, 10 metres left of 'Antiquity', is marked.
FA: Paul Daniel & Peter Stafford, 1979 | 110m | |||
15 | Silk Road
Fine climbing up the white slab bisecting the second pitches of 'Pamella' and 'Antiquity'. Straight up keeping left of the white groove on 'Antiquity'. FA: Paul Daniel & Adam Blizzard (both solo), 1991 | 45m | |||
15 | Antiquity Variant
Start five metres left of the original first pitch. Climb up to a flake, then straight up the steep slab past a good pocket. FA: Neil Montgomery & Andrew Montgomery, 1983 | 30m | |||
17 | ★ Antiquity
A classic route up the left side of the main slab. Start at the V-shaped cleft 10 metres left of 'Crying Rain'.
FA: Paul Daniel & John Lamb, 1979 | 110m | |||
19 | ★ Crying Rain
The first ascent was done in the rain. Start 40 metres left of 'Harlequin's Carnival' at a thin crack in the slab which blanks out after 20 metres.
FA: Roark Muhlen & Paul Daniel, 1980 | 120m | |||
19 | ★★★ lf Only...
Yet another superb, direct line. About 15 metres right of 'Crying Rain' is a short, smooth slab bordered on its left by a thin, square cut corner. Start at the slab five metres right.
FA: Paul Daniel, Tim Chapman (alt.), Stephen Chey & Mark Colyvan, 1983 | 120m, 1 | |||
21 | ★★ Aspiring to the Giggle Block and the Moon
An excellent climb which scared the first ascensionists silly. Start five metres right of 'lf Only...'.
FA: Richard Watts & Bob Killip, 1984 | 100m, 1 | |||
18 | ★ Force of Habit
Another typically fine slab climb. Start about 20 metres left of 'Harlequin's Carnival', a few metres left of a short steep corner marking the end of the udnercut section of the slabs. Double ropes useful.
FA: Mark Colyvan & Stephen Chey, 1983 | 90m, 1 | |||
16 | ★★ Harlequin's Carnival
An impressive line bisecting the main slab; it is well protected and not too difficult. Start 60 metres left of 'Grease is the Word' on a short overhanging orange wall with large flakes.
FA: Richard Howes & Ed Garnett, 1981 | 100m | |||
20 | Escape from the Slimes
A directissima that wasn't to be. Start seven metres right of 'Harlequin's Carnival' at a short pinnacle.
FA: Richard Watts & Bob Killip, 1984 | 110m | |||
20 | Sun and Flies
A memorable experience. Clamber 10 metres up the ramp at the righthand end of the big overlap (left of 'Bumblies Picnic'). Belay on the ledge at the top.
FA: Neil Montgomery & Adam Blizzard (alt.), 1991 | 50m, 1 | |||
23 M0 | Bumblies Picnic
Start 15 metres left of 'Grease is the Word', just left of the bottom wall.
FA: Richard Watts, Paul Daniel & Robyn Cleland, 1984 | 60m, 1 | |||
22 | ★★ Invisible Connections
Good slab climbing up the white streak with two bolts just left of 'Grease is the Word'. Crux moves past the second bolt. FA: Adam Blizzard & Philip Binning, 1987 | 45m, 2 | |||
14 | ★★ Grease is the Word
The obvious corner at the right-hand end of the slabs. The first pitch required extensive landscaping.
FA: John Stone & Paul Daniel (alt.), 1980 | 90m | |||
Southern ACT Mount Gudgenby The Western Slabs | |||||
20 | ★ White Line
FA: Adam Blizzard, Andy Pinkas & Colin Hayhoe, 1990 | 60m | |||
14 | Hard Times
Start off a bushy ledge 15 metres right of Spiral and 10 metres up the large gully (best approached from the top of the gully). Climb the perfectly straight crackline. FA: Adam Blizzard, Julie Styles & Colin Hayhoe, 1990 | 30m | |||
17 | ★★ Spiral
Brilliant. Starts at the layback crack at the centre of this cliff, 30 metres right of Gorillas. Follow the line of weakness with a gentle, exposed slab to finish. FA: Adam Blizzard & Andy Pinkas, 1990 | 50m | |||
17 | Gorillas in the Mist
Start as for Two Solitudes, traverse to the far right end of the ramp and up the obvious line. FA: Adam Blizzard & Neil Montgomery, 1991 | 50m | |||
18 | ★ Two Solitudes
The prominent thin dyke 20 metres left of Spiral. Start underneath the dyke below the ramp. Excellent climbing up a fine line with good protection at intervals. FA: Neil Montgomery & Adam Blizzard, 1991 | 50m | |||
20 | ★ Swirl How
Superb positive climbing but poorly protected and very scary. Climb the water runnel fifteen metres right of Keep Moving, with a bolt halfway up. FA: Adam Blizzard & Neil Montgomery, 1991 | 45m, 1 | |||
16 | ★ Keep Movin'
Start five metres right of Apples and Blackberries at the snow gum on a ledge in the descent gully. Climb up to the large white flake, delicately up this and the smooth slab above. FA: Neil Montgomery & Adam Blizzard, 1991 | 30m | |||
18 | ★ Apples and Blackberries
The line with a bulge halfway up, starting at the Fruit of the Loom ramp. FA: Adam Blizzard, 1992 | 25m | |||
17 | Fruit of the Loom
Follows the leftward leaning ramp. At the end of the ramp traverse left for three metres then up the runout slab. (Grade 19 variant - straight up from the end of the ramp) FA: Adam Blizzard, Tallis Didcott & Chris Holly, 1992 | 30m | |||
Southern ACT Mount Gudgenby | |||||
20 | Blade Runner Blues
On the steep slab about 300 metres northwest of the trig station (i.e. across to the farthest boulders and down the hillside a little). At the righthand end of the slab, head up the wall, then slab to join up with the prominent flake. Strenuously up this then easily to the top. FA: Adam Blizzard & Andy Pinkas, 1990 | 45m | |||
16 | ★ Cyclops
About 100 metres north of the trig is a prominent tor. Walk towards another obvious outcrop about 100 metres north of this again - as you approach, a large leaning boulder stands out on the left. On the north side of this boulder is a beautiful face featuring a big pocket. Climb the face to a unique bollard belay. FA: Neil Montgomery & Adam Blizzard, 1992 | 15m | |||
18 | Apricot Yoni
Start 10 metres north of the trig station. Climb the short, obvious handcrack with a small roof. the first recorded climb on the gudge. FA: Paul Daniel, Craig Kentwell & Tim Chapman, 1984 | 12m | |||
Southern ACT Gudgenby Valley Yankee Hat Trail | |||||
V0 | Knobarete
FA: 2017 | 2m | |||
V0 | Yelephant Front
FA: 2017 | 2m | |||
V0 | Knobby
Grab the Knob FA: 2017 | 2m | |||
Southern ACT Gudgenby Valley The Trollshaws Hilltop | |||||
V0 | Scrael
Up the middle face | 2m | |||
VB | Beneath the Ledge
Underneath the Thorondor Ledge | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Gwaihir
FA: 2017 | 5m | |||
V2 | ★★ Thorondor
Juggy and possibly soft, but be careful of the fall potential. If you miss the starting ledge it could be a 7m drop into the hole. Great view, walk off the back. FA: 2017 | 5m | |||
V0 | Glass Chimney
To the left of the Creole boulder, chimney up through the middle of the next two blocks. FA: 2017 | 3m | |||
VB | ★★ Creole Right
Up the small ledges on the right side of the face FA: 2017 | 5m | |||
VB | ★★ Creole Left
Up the small ledges on the left side of the face FA: 2017 | 5m | |||
Southern ACT Gudgenby Valley The Trollshaws Rodent Rock area | |||||
V6 | ★ Arreto
Sit start around the arret to the right of stiletto | ||||
V4 | Stiletto
Stand start with crimp and low right. Head up through big flake. Started with the high heel | ||||
V3 | ★ Falsetto
Sit start the left side of boulder with right edge and low flake. Mantle then find your way up. FA: Amy McNeilage, 2022 | ||||
V7 | ★★ Common Rat
Sit start on large edge and work your way up and left to the mantle. FA: Pete, Jan 2022 | 3m | |||
V5 | Wristy Queen
Sit start on big rails and up though a tricky mantle FA: Stephen, Dec 2022 | ||||
V2 | Chinchilla
Sit start on rock with hands at the far right of break. Taking the path of least resistance; traverse left and topout as for '5cm mouse' FA: Pete, Jan 2022 | 4m | |||
V1 | ★★ Dwarf Hamster
Sit start on big jug. Deadpoint to top. FA: Pete, Jan 2022 | 2m | |||
V1 | 5cm Mouse
Sit start on flat ledge. To slot crimp and up. FA: Hannah Pringle, Jan 2022 | 2m | |||
V2 | Chilean Degu
Sit start with arms high on crimps. To slopers then top. FA: Pete, Jan 2022 | 2m | |||
Southern ACT Gudgenby Valley The Trollshaws Empanada Area | |||||
V1 | ★ Spicy Chile
Follow up the map of Chile then to the right FA: Gabi Quezada, 18 Jun 2022 | 2m | |||
Southern ACT Gudgenby Valley The Trollshaws Shady Rock | |||||
V1 | Rear Mantle
Stand start on good edges and small feet. FA: Pete, Feb 2022 | 1m | |||
V6 | ★★ Sly Cooper
Sit start by the big flake. FA: Pete, Feb 2022 | 3m | |||
V5 | Shady Arete Sit
Sit start the arete. FA: Pete, Feb 2022 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★★★ Shady Arete
Stand start the arete. FA: Pete, Feb 2022 | 2m | |||
shady project
maybe v9ish | |||||
Southern ACT Gudgenby Valley The Trollshaws Hillside Recluse | |||||
V2 | ★ Spot Check Right
Start 1m right of Spot Check on sidepulls. FA: Pete, 2022 | 2m | |||
V4 | ★★ Spot Check
Stand start on two edges. Move right then up via tiny footers. FA: Pete, 2022 | 2m | |||
Acclivity Activities Run-Up
Variant to Acclivity Activities. Get a run up and smear your way up the boulder without using hands. FA: Pete, 2022 | 2m | ||||
V1 | Acclivity Activites
Stand start and up the slabby section in the centre of the face. FA: Pete, 2022 | 2m | |||
V1 | Spider Hole
Stand start left end of the flake. Move right with small feet and topout over the groove. FA: Pete, 2022 | 2m | |||
V0 | Chunky Brulee
Stand start then mantle on the back left of the boulder. FA: Pete, 2022 | 1m | |||
Southern ACT Gudgenby Valley The Trollshaws Main Area | |||||
V4 | ★ Woolly Jumper
Stand start matched on high crimp. Low feet then jump to sloper, traverse right to topout. FA: Pete, 27 Aug 2022 | 1m | |||
V4 | ★★ Pinky Porridge
Sit start with left hand finger lock and right had very low in the crack. Painful on the left hand pinky finger hence the name, bring lots of tape. FA: Stephen, 11 Dec 2022 | 2m | |||
V1 | ★★★ The Great Boboyan Traverse
Sit start and mantle flat platform underneath huge boulder. Crawl to the jugs and traverse left until the ledge to mantle again. FA: Pete, 2022 | 10m | |||
V5 | ★ Bicep Shark
Sit start matched in a flat undercling on the far left. Follow a some crimps left around the buldge to mantle. Scramble to the top. FA: Stephen, 2022 | 4m |