Routes in Central Tablelands

Long corner to the main (lookout) butress up overhanging nose on big jugs

Above lower terrace on free standing block - the obvious keyhole facing N

Up obvious corner on lower terrace to belay around chockstone (hex/cam placement + sling).

Climb up through the corner feature and directly up (Using the RH jug near the top isn't as classy).

Climb up AQR to around the first/second bolt before traversing out to the arete, following it to the top.

Up the offwidth crack to the summit chockstone.

Up the corner with the thin seam and continue up the crack to the right of the trianglular rooflet. Belay off the chockstone, using the ancient tat if you dare!

Left side pull start. Up then move left to match hands on one of the jugs on the bulgy outy bit under the branch.

Sit start with matched hands. Top out

Sit Start, good right hand and toe. Avoid the jugs part way up to the right. Top out.

Hard stand start on broken right crimp and left flake. Up progressively thinner holds on face.

Most of the choss has been pulled off, but be careful

Crouch start on right hand ledge of Pineco and do big more right to sharp jug then top

Crouch start on right hand ledge and left hand bowl/sloper/thing. Hard move to small crimp then jump to top

Start 2 m right of Orange Crush, traverse left past a thin reachy move to finish up Thin Times.

Sit start

Sit start Follows thin seam

Start two finger left under cling/side pull, two finger right gaston. Shares one hold (right hand) with Thin Times half way up.

Sit start on left side pull and up small crimps to bigger moves up top

Small holds into under cling, reach back for crimps, mantle up. Climb the easy face to anchors.

Beafy power climb. Sharp.

Big start. Sustained.

• Named in loving memory of Michael Chambers 30/3/1934-13/2/2023

An engaging little layback/offwidth crack located behind Adventure, for whos bolts you can belay off. Oh, if only it were twice the size.

Start right side on boarder of grey and orange rock (Don't start on grey as it's too close to the edge to be safe). Traverse across around head height then up to the left. (Previous finish hold has been ripped off)

Juggy with cool movements. Attentive belayer. 2nd bolt high due to rock quality.

Squeezed in hard climb with hard moves right through (and around the corner). Constant ground fall risk mitigated with bolt placement in good rock. Attentive belayer! Can stick clip anchors to work on top rope first.

Climb the first 4 bolts of Adventure then branch off into a desperate traverse under the overhanging boulder. Proceed to then wrestle your way up between the two boulders to yet another uncomfortable belay

Straight up the middle of the right pinnacle. Pretty tricky crux! Really nice slabby top.

Stay left of lichen filed crack. Follow line of bolts and use the sharp crimps through the crux for a nice tough climb. Shares anchors with Ninja Splits.

TR access with a small scramble from behind the cliff onto the grassy boulder on the right of "Use the Crimps Luke". Will need a stick-clip.

Face 3m right of Central Crack.

TR access with a small scramble from behind the cliff onto the grassy boulder on the right of "Use the Crimps Luke". Will need a stick-clip.

Obvious weakness up the middle of left pinnacle that leads to a bottomless flared offwidth which gets progressively smaller going up. Good trad gear.

Climbs the face and blunt arete straight up the middle of the pinnacle. Thin and sustained.

Slabby face 4m left of Central Crack. Thin and technical, fun climbing. Escape left to arete when the face blanks out.

Same as for STR, but start in the wider crack/chicken head.

A short climb up the right trending crack on the backside of the right side. Sling the triangle rock at the end of the crack, lean out and summit the nose feature. Belay off the crack a couple meters away from the edge.

Sustained climbing at the grade.

(FFA/Onsight)

Low protected crux where you run out of feet.

Hard low crux protected by second bolt. Not over once you get established above it and clip the 3rd.

(Share the love of climbing… 🤎🪨🧗‍♂️)

Line of SS carrot bolts that trends right midway up the cliff. Looks like was originally carrots (glued in threaded bolts with nut) for lower off/walk off. Can just lower of anchors on the next route to the right.

Up prominent rib on left side of cliff. (FFA literally his first ever lead climb)

A set of anchors tucked out of the way to teach cleaning.

TR anchor off tree and natural gear.

Low angle easy slab. 2 FHs anchor

Sit start on left side on obvious flake, traverse left along break and over.

Sit start left hand in obvious pocket straight up and over groove at the top.

Step into under of overlap trending slightly left and over

Up high part of slab past black spot

Straight up left side of short slab

Pull onto shallow pockets get feet up and mantle over.

Step up onto shallow pocket, left foot up and over

Up blunt slabby faint arete right of ramp

Start with a right hand on the crimp just below the lip, and left hand on a side pull down low. Work your way up and mantle onto the slab

https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cf_HCCUJqGD/?igshid=YzAyZWRlMzg=

Rock face towards the road. Right side vague crack. Top out.

Up obvious vertical flake, balance left and over

Start with the obvious right hand, with left hand on a chip under the roof, layback and make you’re way directly up to the blob.

Starting on obvious crimp feature head up the slab

Start: Slabby arete toward the left end. Probably goes up the giant slabby block which is clean and rough in the middleand steeper and lichenous at the top. Start only possible from the lower left as the middle starts with a 3-5m overhang. Probably also soloed, with only a few potential RPs in a seam on the left.

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Start: The middle of 3 cracks side by side on the west side of The Neurone Circuit.

Start: 2m left of Maverick.

Climb up to undercling and surmount this on poor holds to gain a good hold up and right. Straight up to delicate finish.

Good technical face climb.

Start: Left of Spot the Brain Cell on north side of boulder with a tree leaning against its E side.

Straight up wall on good holds past 4 BRs to BB.

Start: 4m right of Maverick.

Fingery & technical up to small ledge, trend right from here past 4BR with FH.

Reverted to lichen.

Start: Right to left curving crack on the east face in the middle boulder of The Neurone Circuit.

Follow crack to top. New BB (1990)

Start: 2m right of Spot the Brain Cell. Take wires! Up to BR, then traverse left almost to arete. Up veering very slightly left. 5BR, 2 of which require wires.

Combines a hard start, nice rest, and one of the most delicate and holdless finishes at Tarana.

Start: North face of large square block with Spot the Brain Cell.

Scramble up ledges to large rock platform to access or abseil in. Start 3m right of the corner. Step off small boulder, up wall past 4BR and the large 'wombat hole' in the rock.

Start: 3m left of Stairway to Heaven.

Go for 2 small finger holds, a smear, a high step, then straight up - no bridging or cheating stones at the start!

Short but pleasant climb.

Start: West inside of Split Cwym Boulder 2m left of arete. Up past BRs.

Start: East side of large rock on which Split Cwym Boulder rests.

Up obvious and rather dusty crack with poor nut pro to finish on platform at base of Split Cwym Boulder.

Start: South end of Split Cwym Boulder.

Chimney as far as you can go, then climb arete of west half of boulder past one gal carrot at 4m.

Reverted to lichen.

Up the obvious slabby arete with no protection. FA Joe Friend (solo)

Start around R from Brain Savage on the south side up the entertaining 3 way chimney in the upper section.

Start: The obvious, dominating line on the west side with a 3m overhang down low. Up the line to slab finish.

An elegant chimney. Good pro. Start on the W side left of 'Brain Savage'. Follow the corner (mostly out of sight)

Start: On the south side. Weave up R, then back over unexpected jugs. Contrived abseil - take care getting off!

Start: On right of SB# ledge.

Desperate overhanging start then up easier slab past 2 rusty carrots.

Belay off immovable blocks 5m back with directional rusty carrot near edge (on left facing out).

Start: In middle of SB# ledge.

Mildly overhung start then up scoopy slab with 3 rusty carrots.

Belay off immovable blocks 5m back with directional rusty carrot near edge (on left facing out).

Start: P1 10m right of S at ground level. P2 from same ledge as SB#2 and SB#3.

1. (15m) Low-angled lichen slab with rusty carrots at 3 and 10m.

2. (7m) Left of SB# ledge. Steeper slab with 2 rusty carrots.

Belay off immovable blocks 5m back with directional rusty carrot near edge (on right facing out).

Start: 1m R of CP, faintly marked with square possibly "S"

1.5m wide chimney with internal chockstones ending in flared overhanging crack.

Start: Marked CP.

Wide flared V chimney-crack with chockstones. Left variant start is angled cheeese-grater offwidth. Huge block belay at top -33.543325, 149.925413.

Start: Up at Right end of short juggy boulder adjacent to the Crown, S of Tanner's Leap

Start: Opposite side of Crown from Tanner's Leap. Hand-traverse break, then pull up to juggy chimney/offwidth.

The original line to the summit.

Start: On the South of Evans Crown. Chimney between the Crown and boulder, step across gap and pull up onto ledge. Crack to summit.

3 FH to break, FH and up to DBB.

Start: 1m right of 'Small Pox Wall'

The middle route of the three on the wall. Up wall past 2 BR to horizontal break (cams), step over overlap and up to BB.

2FH to chain.

Start: At tree 2m left of 'Small Pox Wall'

Start: A few metres right from E. 'Layback' to L-hand roof.

Start: Up the inset corner at the back of the west facing gully 20m right of Lemuria, at the smaller end of the crag.

"Up to obvious big, coloured off width roof right of LGC, then squeeze up chimney."

Are we to believe that Joe Friend lead what looks like an unprotectable 4m horizontal off-width roof crack in 1973, or is there another hidden chimney up there?

Start: 4m right of of DL.

Steep hand crack angle that eases angle and increases width almost to off-width at roof. Tenuous at first then better. Belay here from chain around block, or traverse right into Lemuria's top chimney.

Start: West side of the Crown Buttress.

Right to left diagonal across roof-capped wall. Then traverse.

Start: 6m right of NoR.

1. Arching crack, over bulge at end to ledge and L around bush.

2. From back of ledge, short wall to giant flake crack - up. Belay as for OB. 2 pitches, can be done as 1 long pitch (recommended)

Start: 6m right of OB. Up short slab to crack (cams) and pockets tending left. Slab to belay as for OB.

Start: A few metres right of Optem Bop - interesting crux start followed by easy ramble.

Up past 3 fixed hangers to rap station or to lower-offs at 15m.

Start: 10m right of Celeborn. Middle of face over bulge (undercling hold) by BR, up slab to join NoR. Rap from chains.