Routes in Australian Capital Territory for selected grade

Sit start.

Matti Puckridge

Powerful start, then technical on slopers, easy finish.

Around the side of the boulder from Bow You Bastards, start on good holds (past the gaston) and up.

Sit start. FA done in, you guessed it, socks.

Excellent sustained climbing on a slightly overhanging face. A bit soft for the grade and good for doing training laps.

Standing start to Spruce Moose - slap up the boulder. Burly. CMCC

Sit start on rail, up through crimps. Apparently a hold has broken in the middle making this harder. Potentially V7 now?

Sit start matched on low rail.

Start as for The Warm Up, head onto the high flake and finish up via crimps as per Bogan (the independent finish between The Warm Up and Power Up finishes).

Sit start.

Stand start from arete in corner then climb up and top out (block on right is out).

Sit start, and top out on the right.

DYNO - Sit start on crimps and dyno to jug on the arete, then top out. Most of the challenge is in missing the pads on the swing.

Sit start on jugs on left side of boulder. Lowball, bunched start traversing right under tree. Continue traversing right and finish up TC at the far right of the boulder. Pumpy.

Mantle problem. Crimps and up, fairly standard.

Low sit start with left hand undercling and right hand crimp.

Low sit start at the base of the flake. Left along the flake, then up via the scoop and arete.

Stand start with left hand on the sidepull rail on the left of the arrete and right on the better right dish on the right side of the arrete. Head up the arrete to top out.

Sit start at the arete. Up to side pull on the arete, then move left onto the slab and straight up.

Sit start (as for #15) and up, finishing via a good rail high on the left. Excellent gymnastic moves on decent holds down low to a technical finish.

Start as for Snake-in-the-Grass. Straight up the wall. Optional cam in break (#0.4-0.5 BD). Lower down Red Belly.

Stand start. Up crimps and vert features.

Originally 23 but now 25 with the loss of a flake.

Sustained moves up the corner.

Dyno up and left. Bigger dyno project up and right.

Sit start then sloppy slaps up left then mantel.

Sit start at jugs at the lowest, most left point of the face - traverse right to join Boldrewood Arete and finish up that.

Climb Jugalicious, continue around corner and finish matched on a large edge in the middle of the wall.

A vicious sit-start problem using the crimp hold at about head height when sitting (which just fits a few fingers of each hand), then executing a large dynamic move to reach the ledge above. Your fingers may not survive; you have been warned.

100 metres north-west (slightly downhill and right, facing the valley) from 'Mushroom Rock' is an isolated boulder about 20 metres high. On the valley side of this is a thin crack:

One of the hardest cracks in the ACT. It overhangs by two metres in fifteen and has three hand jams, the rest being layaways and thin fingerlocks. Accepts gear from green alien to #2 camalot and a couple of wires. Extra #1 and #2 camalots for the belay, and take a 5m bit of rope or cordalette to hang a loweroff over the lip for dogging. Get down at the end by tying the rope to a tree and rapping off the back.

Sit start.

Traverse the whole boulder (spraypainted boulder, home to The Dish and #s 14-18). Strenuous crimping/balance section, easy to fall off.

Sit start.

Sit start with the good flake, on the face left of She's a Rainbow. Up and slightly left into the face and scoop.

Traverse, go up the ridge past #14.

Fun and interesting, Start matching the low rail on the left and work your way up on crimps.

WorldPeace

A hold broke off near the start (10th May 2020), but a new hold has now magically appeared.

Excellent moves up the arête! You get a no hands rest in the middle and then hit the crux and a big move above the break. Good for training laps.

Traverse left from a sit start and finish up a bit left of where Stretch Hang finishes.

Sit start from left side pull, climb into corner and top out.

Sit start beneath crack/corner then climb up and top out.

Very low sit start followed by steep climbing on plenty of sidepulls. Straight up the right part of the overhanging rock and trend left for the topout.

Sit start as for She's a Rainbow, then move left to join the Street Fighting flake and continue left to finish up that problem.

Sit start to the far right and pull around the corner. Finish with lower traverse/slopes to jug. Desperate.

Sit start on the good underclings on the right side of the block, climb straight up.

Start to the right of the largest white patch on the wall. Up face and arete, then through hard moves to lower-off.

Sit start left side arete then climb up and top out.

Sit start low on undercling/sidepull and directly up arete

A steep, direct and well protected wall. More technical and sustained than 'Snickers'. Start as for Boy's Brigade but go (mostly) straight up. Lunge up to and past the first bolt to the second. Gain a big hold out right, then back into the line. Continue up the wall past four more bolts. An awkward move brings the seventh bolt to hand, then up onto the slab. Rap as for GGO. Loss of holds in the 2020 fires has made the climbing sequence different than the original route, and probably increased the grade from its original 25.

Sit start.

Start as for Shlop, traverse right and finish as for Fishery

Climb the rightward leaning diagonal line of holds with four bolts. Pull round onto the arete and up easily to a bolt belay.

Great line up the centre of the overhung face. Start low avoiding the loose block and head straight up the a shared topout with Skippy.

Sit start as for Fender Bender, finish as for Carmel Cream.

aka The Riddle. Long standing highball project has finally seen a rope-less accent. Stand start at the sidecling jugs for Jugalicious then through some insecure scoops.

Chris Beers

Stand start with two good crimps and poor feet. Dyno to top then mantle.

Sit start and grunt your way up along the arete and using a few oppositional holds.

Stand start between Siglo and Coronas, then straight up on thin crimps and slopers in the high scoop.

Sit Start matched on juggy side pull. Move right following the thin crack. Reach out to the overhung arete and top out at the end of the boulder.

Detached block by the ground is out.

The off-width come squeeze chimney 5m left of NFC. Sit start from back of cave.

https://youtu.be/3k_6BLflhho

Sit start.

Thin crimps up the highest line at the Tumblers.

Stand start, and up slightly left.

Sit start from incut edge and undercling at base of rounded bulge. Climb straight up and top out.

Up the slab, on excellent compact rock. Thin step up to start, then good edges to the top.

A fine addition between No Beans and Roy's Crack. Sustained desperation. Bring your best rubber and lots of draws. There is an anchor station at the top. Double ropes are required for rap.

Sit start. The hardest V3 in the entire world?

Sit start below Secretos on the big shield block. Use tiny crimp and trickery to traverse left and top as for Siglo

Sit start beneath prow with lefthand on arete then climb up topping out via in-cut jug. Lefthand block is out.

Bevan Ashby

Start marked. A hard move to start, a fun traverse out right then up the corner to the chains.

Sitstart the middle of face on jug. Straight up and mantle into groove.

Easy up through the blocky section to a ledge then technical climbing on the vertical face.

Straight up the most overhung part of the boulder, with no real footing to get you started. Hugely shouldery, height dependent as well but essentially a fairly short problem (shorter people can probably add 1-2 grades and will probably need to toe-hook the other side of the boulder just to get started on very poor slopers).

Sit start as for Monkfish Jr. Up, then over the overhanging block. Some sharp and flaky rock in places.

Sit start on low jug with right heel hook. Go up to the decent rail with both hands and bust for the gaston. Go left to the slopey holds and look for crimps and top out.

Sit start with slopers/crystals for left hand and a decent side pull for the right, then up to grab the good side pull higher on the right. Basically one hard move to start, then more easily up.

Sit start right side of the arete, climb straight up and top out.

A positive ape factor is a definite advantage on this spectacular climb! Start at the obvious orange flake in the middle of 'Cave Wall'. Climb up easily to the first bolt then traverse left to the second. From here a massive one armed dyno to a bucket leads to runners (3.5/4 Friends) and a small ledge. Move right along the lip of the roof then up to another ledge. Continue past a third bolt to the top.

Sit start as for 'Escape room' but traverse all the way right then up into shared topout.

Highball pillar in the cave, vert to slab, can be rehearsed on tr using trad gear to rig a line

Chris

Mantel the vague scoop right next to the 'Bow You Bastards' (and many variants) boulder.

Sit start round to the right. Follow the good layback flake up and left round the tock, and top out straight up once at the 'ledge'. Downclimb over the back.

Up SA arete to 2/3 height. Traverse left then up sidepulls to lower-off.

Sit start as per Hake, matched on the good handhold in the middle of the wall. Right to the arete, then straight up to good crimps on and over the lip to top out.

Stand start then climb up slab gaining flake and top out.

Left of Taking Care of Business. Start with Two Crimps. Theres a mini foot ledge with a small tree stump on the left of it.

Stand start matched on rounded hold at end of horizontal block. Traverse rightwards finishing as for route 7.

Double toe hook start with hands in low jug. Then up arete.

Sit start undercut arete, climb arete and top out.

Originally a stick and RP aid problem up the left leaning crack which joins 'Easy Wind'. It is now free with the aid of a chipped foothold, but the bouldery start is still protected in the same manner.

Traverse slopers from a sit start to finish at the mantle for 'Mini Mantle'.

A fairly odd problem. Nothing for feet - and don't use the rest boulder right behind it! Very burly. A heel hook may help you. From a sit. Go around or straight over.

A highball, very height dependent. Sit start. Sink a jam (if you can) up high and use a small notch for your left hand to campus up and get your feet set. That's the hard move, the rest is grade 14. For shorties, it's going to be more difficult but there's a reasonable number of holds. You can get off the back of the boulder, if you're careful. Obviously, don't use the tree... (it actually is quite tempting when you're trying to get the side-smear!)

An excellent climb on a spectacular wall. Start at the right hand side of the ledge. Climb past three bolts to a horizontal break, move right and up to another bolt. Follow the thin crack (crux) through the overlap, then go for the top.

Up the crack with a nastyish landing below onto a small boulder if you've not eaten your wheaties. Thins out as it ascends and becomes quite technical until you reach the rail for 'Public Enemy'. Harder/changed since the Canberra fires.

Sit start - as for Jugalicious but straight up and finish on the face. Drop off.

Stand start on slopers. Mantle on prayers

Desperate. Has only been climbed twice. Need to be tall, or wicked strong.

The right side of the arete. Start as for Matrix. Climb up the flake, left along the break to the arete, then up the wall past four bolts. Move left to the "Dreamweaver jug" at the last bolt, and up the arete to DBB.

Stand start up brown trousers, up a few moves then pull left onto the face and up on thin crimps.

Sit start then into underclings.

Sit start. Up on entirely manufactured holds.

Strenuous and technical climbing thats harder than it looks.

Sit start right hand incut crimp, climb up and top out.