Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Wolgan Valley Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||
14 | The Sting (Cave Corner)
| 86m | |||
17 | Sapper Sling
| 80m | |||
18 | Nuclear Vagrant
| 51m | |||
24 | Vacant Possession
| 40m | |||
14 | ★ Boulder Climb
| 81m | |||
22 | ★★ Flashbacks
Starts at the carrot-bolt belay at the end of P1 (22) of Flashpoint. Up sandy/loose corner as for Flashpoint P2 to carrot bolt out right. Traverse directly across carrot bolt to seam crack, and up left-leaning seam-crack for 30m via 4 more carrots and lots of fiddly gear. Be careful of loose blocks. 2 x carrot anchor on small ledge below topout, with in-situ improvised rap-point (as of 2018). 50m rap to ground. | 40m, 5 | |||
22 | ★ Flashpoint
An historic classic. Hot Henry Barber climbed this and The Weirding Wall in a day to produce the first two 22's in The Wolgan (and arguably NSW).
| 80m, 3 | |||
31 | ★★★ Microcosm
Another great line envisioned by Giles Bradbury who first climbed it at 28M1. It has seen very few (2?!) free ascents. FA: Giles Bradubury FFA: Mark Baker, 1996 | 50m | |||
16 | Back Off
| 43m | |||
26 | ★ Anzac Day
The face between the arete of Our Way, and the corner of Back Off (perpendicular to Microcosm). Straight up the face, avoiding the corner/crack and the arete. Thin, balancy, technical moves of boldly spaced bolts. Finish up the arete on the right side of the face (formed when Back Off becomes a chimney). Black/Grey painted carrot bolts. FA: A. Mcclain | 25m, 5 | |||
22 | Our Way
| 25m | |||
20 | ★★★ Ishtar
FA: (20M0) Joe Friend & Dick Hain, 1973 | 50m, 2 | |||
23 | ★★ Le Voleur
| 30m | |||
22 | ★ Slippery Dip
| 40m | |||
21 | Return to Anarchy
| 50m | |||
21 | Streetcar Visions
| 25m | |||
20 | ★★★ Mop Up
| 39m | |||
23 | Kicked and Whipped
| 52m | |||
17 | Shylock
| 50m | |||
17 | ★★ Sap
FA: Keith Royce & Don Klees, 1971 | 55m, 3 | |||
20 | ★★ Idiot Savant
| 34m, 9 | |||
19 | ★★ Geriaction
| 25m | |||
18 | ★★ Decline and Fall
FA: (14M2) Ian Patterson & Warwick Williams, 1970 | 99m, 4 | |||
24 | ★ Ghost Dance
| 20m | |||
16 | Atlantis
| 75m | |||
16 | The Necromancer
| 55m | |||
13 | The Necromancer Variant Start
| 15m | |||
19 | ★★ Black Magic
| 65m | |||
18 | ★★ Planet Waves
| 70m | |||
21 | Eagle Eye
| 60m | |||
21 | Firetail
| 80m | |||
17 | Mazurka
Up short hand crack to ledge, then up sand filled finger crack to diagonal squeeze chimney. Up through to detached pedestal. Pitch 2 belay tree now has sling and locker, it is possible to lower off this to the ground using a single 80m | 95m | |||
19 | ★ Bristling Dogs
| 48m | |||
18 | ★★★ Mirrorman
1
16
25m
2
18
20m
3
17
20m
4
18
25m
One of the classics of the cliff. Varied climbing. Start: At marked 'MM' at large flake crack.
Descent = rap 50 m from slim tree 10 m East (R facing valley; look out for loose rock) to large ledge (top of Sizzler) and rap rings. 40 m rap. FA: Mike Law & Ian Lewis, 1974 | 90m, 4, 4 | |||
18 | Birds of a Feather Direct Finish
| 15m | |||
20 | ★★ Birds of a Feather
| 75m, 5 | |||
22 | Birds of a Feather Direct Start
| 6m | |||
21 | Birds of a Feather Variant Start
| 6m | |||
17 | The Triple Echo
| 84m | |||
21 | Transparent Manipulator
| 95m | |||
21 | ★ Gravity's Angel
| 32m | |||
21 | ★★ Free as a Bird
All the old carrots have now been replaced with rings. This now provides a very convenient awesome single pitch route with rings at the first belay to rap off or continue up the two upper pitches. | 85m, 3, 1 | |||
22 | ★ Gobbling With Rage
| 30m | |||
21 | ★★ Free Fall
FA: Mike law & Nick Taylor, 1975 | 110m, 4 | |||
18 | ★★★ Sizzler
Fantastic hand crack widening to offwidth. Most don't bother with pitches 2 and 3. Start: At the crack 3 m R of Grunter.
FA: Mike Law & Pete Taylor, 1974 | 81m, 3 | |||
16 | Vivowak
| 110m | |||
20 | ★★ Maquillage
| 70m | |||
16 | ★ Grunter Direct Finish
Follow corner crack to abseil sling on tree | 25m | |||
16 | ★ Grunter
| 51m | |||
19 | Gets Better With Traffic
From the chains at the top of “Dan the Bulldog”, mantle the ledge on the right and traverse 5m right, then follow the short finger crack up under rooflet. Over rooflet and stem to the top. Belay off tree 5m from edge. Originally climbed as part of trying to reach the upper coke ovens cliff from the top of the Knuckle. Pro is mildly spaced but there. FA: Nat & Marco de Jongh, 6 Mar 2021 | 25m | |||
17 | ★ Dan the Bulldog
Start below the tree. First pitch (15) is 40m with 7 bolts. Runout to 2 rusty bolts right by each other not far from the tree, and then 5 above the tree. A 2 bolt belay leads into the 2nd 20m pitch (17) with 4 bolts and a 2.5 friend. The bolts are not all easy to spot. Chains and ring on ledge. | 60m, 2, 11 | |||
13 | ★ Sod
Originally led with a 120 foot rope and two pieces of gear - the tree at 10m and a piton bashed in a hole (removed on second). Andrew Penney unknowingly bolted a similar line going straight up, 'Death-bed Confession'. An ascent of Sod in the original style is no longer possible but its description is preserved below. Start 4m left of Grunter at the foot of an easy angled face (Sod Wall).
FA: Keith Royce, David Massam & Les Ormrod, 1969 | 84m, 3 | |||
14 | ★ Death Bed Confessions (Alt)
Straight up wall (8 carrots and a couple of small to medium cams). Stop at chains at 30m and lower back to the deck. FA: Andrew Penny | 30m, 8 | |||
14 | ★ Death-bed Confession
Start marked DC 7m left of Grunter corner. P1 - 40m (14). Straight up wall (8 carrots and a couple of small to medium cams). Veer right at last bolt, clip next bolt then head up to small ledge and 3BB. P2 - 20m (11) Up slab (2BR) and wide crack above then right to good ledge. Multi BB and chains at top of Dan the Bulldog P2. FFA: Andrew Penney & Carl-Jean Jagusch, 1986 | 60m, 2, 10 | |||
14 | ★★ Sod Variant
| 65m | |||
14 | ★ Sod Direct
| 25m | |||
19 | ★★★ The Knuckle
Descent: Abseil 49 metres from the trees. | 52m, 3 | |||
15 | ★ Star Wars
| 18m | |||
19 | Xenie
| 110m | |||
19 | ★★ Prickly Pair
| 95m | |||
20 | ★★ My Crown of Thorns
| 50m | |||
22 | ★★ Prickles
| 21m | |||
18 | ★★★ Cactus
1
18
21m
2
18
15m
3
18
30m
4
16
12m
Stem and crack climb your way to glory. Start: Start 6m R of 'Agent Orange' at initial 'C' in a cave with a fine corner crack leading out of the top.
Descent: Abseil 40m to a small ledge with two ring bolts just left of pitch 2 belay, then abseil 35m to the ground. FA: (13M3): Keith Royce & Paul Edwards, 1971 | 78m, 4 | |||
19 | ★ Agent Orange
Mixed climbing, three carrots and DRBB. Wires on the first flake, committing move to carrot, then easy up funky feature with threads and carrots all the way. Don't need any cams. Does need a bolt to protect the crux at the start. Retro-bolt of an old death route, should have been retro'd properly. | 90m, 3 | |||
23 | ★★ Liquid Reflections
Start 4 right of MD.
3.48m Right and up ramp and corner.
FA: Grant Clark & Ian Hofstetter, 1983 | 94m, 4, 2 | |||
18 | ★★★ Flying a Kite
Mixed route on carrots. Take many bolt plates (11!) plus medium-sized cams. To access climb Harlem, Mother's Drugs or Virgin Flight. | 45m, 11 | |||
16 | Virgin Flight
Start up Virgin on the Ridiculous to a sandy ledge, continue up to a bolt then traverse around the arete past two carrots to belay on Flying a Kite. | 25m, 3 | |||
23 | ★★ Mother's Drugs
Start 6m right of H. Up to bolt then pass another bolt. Right then up to bolt. Trend left to DBB belay off H. FA: Ian Hofstetter & Grant Clark, 1983 | 27m, 3 | |||
22 | ★ Harlem
Start 5m right of VOTR. Past 3 bolts to DBB at break. FA: Ian Hofsetter & Grant Clark, 1983 | 25m, 3 | |||
Subterranean Homesick Blues
Variant start for VOTR. 10m up BO then right to cave. Around to join VOTR. FA: Glenn Tempest & Mike Law, 1976 | 30m | ||||
20 | ★★★ Virgin on the Ridiculous
Start 5m right of BO.
FA: Glenn Tempest & Mike Law, 1976 | 100m, 3 | |||
20 | ★★ Sublime
Beautiful looking orange wall up top. Same start as Barrel Organ. Pitch 1: 35m, Grade AU 18. Take medium cams, wires and bolt plates. Climb 6m to a ledge (good pro). Bouldery move to get on the slabby face (cairn is establish to step on, high left foot). Follow the line of carrot bolts which can be run out, keep your eye out for any placements. Step right for a semi hanging 2BB. Pitch 2: 30m, Grade AU 20 Hug the arete for the first few moves, climb up and don't forget to admire the might chossy crack roof of "Virgin of the Ridiculous". Thin moves to the left lead to some questionable rock which provides ample rest before the real fun begins (crux, fixed hanger). Pretty thin and sustained afterwards (carrot bolts and cams). Descent: Rap 1: 50m from the two carrot bolts at the top, they have permanently established bolt plates and locking carabiners on them. Land on the big ledge next to the huge tree. Rap 2: 10m to the ground. Use the tree as an anchor. FA: Glen Lewin & Wade Stevens, 1999 | 65m, 13 | |||
13 | ★ Barrel Organ
Start 4m right of CF.
FA: Don Kless & Graham Wurth, 1971 | 81m, 4 | |||
16 | Chopper Flake
Start 5m right of WSB. Flake and up to cave. Up arete to join BO. FA: Mike Law, 1976 | 37m | |||
17 | Wall Street Blues
Start 1m right of OGVII. 1.30m Up to ledge. Bolt Anchors.
FA: Ian Hofsetter & Grant Clark, 1983 | 75m, 3 | |||
15 | ★★ Monkey Business
Up and right a bit to a rotten cave. Up left edge of cave to a break below a roof. Move left and swing around roof to a corner. Up to glory FA: Andrew Penney & John Wolgan, 1986 | 30m | |||
15 | ★★ Organ Grinder Variant II
Start 5m right of OG.
FA: Graham Wurth & George Harrison, 1971 | 36m, 2 | |||
14 | ★★ Organ Grinder
The first climb to be put up at the Coke Ovens. Start 12m right of MO at small twin corners.
FA: John Dennis & Dave Massam, 1968 | 60m, 2 | |||
18 | Pantihose
| 25m | |||
14 | Mouth Organ
Start as for OGV.
FA: Russell Tatlor & Charlie Cuthbertson, 1973 | 55m, 4 | |||
9 | Organ Grinder Variant
Start 20m right of CD.
FA: Keith Royce, Brian Luxford & Don Klees, 1969 | 27m, 2 | |||
18 | Where Eagles Dare
| 30m | |||
17 | ★★ The Passionate Pilgrims
| 85m | |||
16 | Canadian's Delight
Start 20m right of WR on ledge.
FA: Murray McPhail & Warwick Williams, 1971 | 74m, 3 | |||
22 | ★ Flame
The arete / slab just right of 'The Wars Of The Roses', ending at the same 1st pitch belay. Hard start, then rapidly eases off. | 22m | |||
17 | The Roses Tension Traverse
Start as for WR.
FA: Mike Law & Glenn Tempest, 1977 | 85m, 4 | |||
16 | ★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1)
Up the beautiful hand crack corner then easily to thread and piton belay. | 22m | |||
20 | ★★★ The Wars of the Roses
Start 15m right of S.
A mammoth line. The first pitch is the quintessential corner crack - with great pro and moves and can be done as a classic pitch in its own right. Pitch 2 has some moments finding way through hanging blocks to nice exposed seats on top of blocks under roof with bomber belay gear a move higher. Pitch 3 is exhilarating and a must do adventure. Pitch 4 starts up a clean corner crack , onto a ledge, pull over the steep bulge and up to a nice belay. Rap beta: Using the tree with slings, from the top a 50m rap to the top of P1. Another 20m rap from there to the ground. FA: Pete Giles, Keith Bell & John Fantini, 1974 FFA: Roland Pauligk & Pete Canning, 1975 | 72m, 4 | |||
18 | ★★ Tension Traverse
| 85m | |||
21 | ★★ Snivels
Start 30m right of IW.
FA: Grant Clark & Ian Hofsetter, 1983 | 89m, 3, 8 | |||
22 | Idiot Wind
Start as for KT.
FA: Ian Hofsetter & Grant Clark, 1983 | 57m, 2, 4 | |||
18 | King Toad
Start 20m right of MA.
FA: Greg Mortimer & Keith Bell, 1974 | 51m, 2 | |||
16 | Mon Ami
Start 25m right of DEC.
FA: Keith Bell & Greg Mortimer, 1974 | 45m, 2 | |||
8 | Don's Easy Climb
Start as for DS. Trend right. FA: Don Klees & Les Ormrod, 1969 | 76m, 4 | |||
19 | ★★ Vision Thing
| 45m | |||
21 | ★ Publish or perish
Blunt arete on mid level cliff above Body Odour. 9 stainless carrots to ubolt lower offs. FA: Ben Maddison, Brad Carmady & Greg Mortimer, 2011 | 30m, 9 | |||
21 | ★ Runnels of love
Face 5m left of Publish or Perish. Bridge off tree then 5 stainless carrots followed by small to medium natural gear in vertical runnels. At small ledge escape left and up to natural belay. Direct finish difficult to protect, so more bolts and possibly lower offs to be added. FA: Ben Maddison, Brad Carmady & Greg Mortimer, 2012 | 40m, 5 | |||
15 | Diamond Snake
Start 35m right of BO.
FA: David Massam & Keith Royce, 1969 | 72m, 3 | |||
8 | Body Odour
Start 35m right of MC. Scramble 10m to belay at corner.
FA: John Croker & Gary Daniels, 1973 | 91m, 3 | |||
13 | Mossy Corner
Start as for EW.
FA: Dave Massam & Keith Royce, 1969 | 48m, 3 |