Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Blue Mountains Lithgow Valley School Farm Goggins Boulder | |||||
V1 | ★★★ Sit Goggins Sit
Sit start. Left hand on obvious edge, right hand in good pocket. Up to gaston then big move up and right. Excellent technical climb. FA: Evan Hudson, 16 Aug 2023 | ||||
V1 | Going Goggins
Sit start on obvious ledge. Up to terrible sloped hold. Match and mantle. FA: Evan Hudson, 16 Aug 2023 | ||||
V5 | ★★★ Cliff Goggins
start on jug edges. Move up to obvious jug. Big move up to rounded top out. Friction required. FA: Cliff Hopkins | 4m | |||
V1 | ★★ Backside Goggins
Located on the tall side of the uphill boulder. Start on left under cling and slopy right. Move straight up on gradually worsening holds until a puckering top out. FA: Jacob Silinis | ||||
V2 | Jacob Goggins
Start on obvious jug. Big move up to rounded hold then out right to jug. Finish straight up. FA: Joshua Van Praag, 9 Aug 2023 | ||||
V4 | ★ Crossing Goggins
Start match on obvious jug. Cross into left crimp then match. Head left and finish up Goggins Hips. FA: Evan Hudson, 9 Aug 2023 | ||||
V2 | Amuerta Traverse
Start on Gogglieater and traverse in CG, up to triangle match. Traverse across on rail into finish of Jacobs Project | ||||
V2/3 | Getting Ahead of Yourself
Same start as GH. Cross to knob then move out right to good edge. Up to obvious jug then long move to left side pull to top out same as AT. Nice climbing. FA: Evan Hudson, 16 Aug 2023 | ||||
V2 | Googins Hips
Start in obvious hole on good holds just left of CG. Up to good left hand and small right. Big move to slopey rail and then up. FA: M Houzafi, 9 Aug 2023 | 3m | |||
V1 | ★★ Boat Carrier
Start on obvious ledge on arete. Up into triangle match and then difficult move to slopey top out. FA: Jacob Silinis | 3m | |||
V0 | ★★★ Goggleater Mantle
Start from sit start, hands on big ledge, and mantle onto ledge on left side. FA: Joshua Van Praag, 21 Jun 2023 | 3m | |||
V0 | ★★★ Warm Up Slab
Easy slab on left side of uphill boulder. FA: Jacob Silinis | 4m | |||
Blue Mountains Lithgow Valley Bracey's Lookout Footless Boulder | |||||
V5 | ★★ Skuxx and Skats
Start on skuxx life moving left on the rail to the 2 pockets and from there abig move to Red fa topout. FA: Krishna, 20 Oct 2023 | 3m | |||
V5 | ★ Skuxx Life
Sit start then straight up. Right hand side of face. FA: Michael Cassidy, 10 Oct 2023 | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ The Carlo Traversey
Sit Start on left start holds and move right and finish up Skuxx Life. FA: Michael Cassidy, 10 Oct 2023 | 4m | |||
V4 | ★ Red FA
Sit start then straight up from good holds FA: nathaniel glavurdic, 10 Oct 2023 | 3m | |||
Blue Mountains Lithgow Valley Bracey's Lookout Craack Boulder | |||||
V5 | ★★ Train line
Really cool moves using pinches and some compression. Sit start from left undercling and right low pinch. Follow the obvious 2 rails up the prow to topout. Make sure you have lots of skin FA: Krishna | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★ Crack train
Sit start using the right side of the crack and the scoops and left rail of train line. Move up making big spans with tricky feet. FA: Krishna, 8 Nov 2023 | 3m | |||
You're on Crack
Obvious crack. Open project. If you like cracks it's all yours! | 3m | ||||
V2 | ★★ Your on crack left
Move up the left side of the crack feature. FA: Krishna, 21 Sep 2023 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ Dealing Discretely
Sit start on good right hand sloper with a mono pocket, left hand on side pull. Use obvious low ledge for left foot. Up to small side pull then big move right and up. FA: Krishna, 20 Sep 2023 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Uppers
Start on lowest holds available. Left side pull and right crimp. Bad feet requires body tension and technique. Straight up using gastons and side pulls to awkward mantle. FA: Evan Hudson, 20 Sep 2023 | 3m | |||
Blue Mountains Lithgow Valley Bracey's Lookout Stairs Left | |||||
V3 | ★★★ Michael's Route
Start on wall right of Lean To. Cannot use left wall at all. Start on left bulge and right crimp. Up to small edge and pocket on left arete. Up through mono and edge to obvious jug. Now mantle. Best climb here. FA: Michael Cassidy, 9 Sep 2023 | 4m | |||
V1 | Lean To
20m past the Equation. A boulder leaning on the other. Start on furthest left jug. Big move up to big hole. Cross then up to flat ledge. Escape out left. FA: Evan Hudson, 9 Sep 2023 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ The Equation
Start on gravel rail on left side of cave. Move left and up through jug and under cling. Use crimps to reach jug rail then big move to good side pull. Finish on obvious rail. Move carefully right to get back to the ground. FA: Evan Hudson, 9 Sep 2023 | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★★ Lackadaisical Splitter
Sit start. Hands in crack. Feet MUST be on left side of crack to start for full grade. Don't use massive obvious square block. Cool moves to easy top out. FA: Evan Hudson, 2 Sep 2023 | 3m | |||
V1 | Silver Linings
Sit start on edges right of small cave. Big move up to ironstone rail. Out left to good hold then up on surprisingly great jugs. FA: Evan Hudson, 2 Sep 2023 | 5m | |||
V2 | ★★ The Maw
Sit Start on obvious big open jug. Up to slopey hole then up right. Finish up and left on manky ledge. Exit carefully off left or down climb. FA: Evan Hudson, 2 Sep 2023 | ||||
V2 | ★ Pants on Fire
Left side of arete 1m left of MM. Start on jug rail. Up to pocket and small edge. Big moves through jugs. Stay left of arete at all times. DO NOT touch death block at start. Even with your feet. FA: Evan Hudson, 9 Sep 2023 | 5m | |||
V1 | ★ Mantle Madness
Stand start left of GK. Right hand under cling and left side pull. Up through obvious mantle. Scarier than it is hard. Add a grade if you do the sit start. FA: Evan Hudson, 2 Sep 2023 | 5m | |||
V1 | ★ The Gate Keeper
Up right side of obvious slab. Sit start and up to right to good edge. Couple of thin moves to good holds. High. FA: Evan Hudson, 2 Sep 2023 | ||||
Blue Mountains Black Site Crags Red Site | |||||
25 | ★★ The Worm That Doth Corrupt
1
25
30m
2
21
25m
3
25
25m
4
16
20m
Closed Project An eclectic collection of four pitches, all with mixed climbing up the left hand side of this impressive cliff. Bring a single set of nuts, a single set of cams from BD #0.1 to #4 and 14+ draws and extenders.
FA: Luke Yerbury & David Barrie, 17 Jun 2023 | 100m, 4 | |||
Blue Mountains Black Site Crags Adventure Park Ecstasy | |||||
24/25 | ★★★ On a String and a Prayer
A magnificent flake feature straight up the guts of the wall. Each pitch has merit - but the real wonder is in pitches 3 and 4 (which can be linked if your 2nd is up for it). Named after a scary worn Grigri rope cutting drama during first ascent attempts. Check your gear! Gear required: Route is entirely bolted and does not require bolt plates. 16 draws should keep you out of trouble (most pitches are 8 to 12 bolts). Three of the belays are hanging - so take your comfy harness and consider a couple of long slings to manage the rope on belay. Descent: Where you rap down will depend on how much you want to suss the route out in advance, have an escape jugging rope in bad weather and desire to leave cache of food/water/shoes. The cleanest simplest and boldest rap is tying 130m of rope together and rapping down After Life. This mean you have to carry everything up the route and must be able to obligatory climb around grade 22 above bolts. If you rap down the route itself the rope rarely gets in the way of the climbing itself (it's an overhung wall and the route traverses around a fair bit). If you have limited ropes then a fixed 50m rope from the top anchors will get you to belay anchors at top of pitch 4. From there you can rap and pull ropes down using 50m double ropes or a single 80m to the ground (in two raps).
| 140m, 7 | |||
24 | ★★★ After Life
Heavenly three star face climbing with a one star deduction for the exit shenanigans. This route requires rapping down an overhung wall - don't under estimate this. Practice at home not on this route and have the right gear! Gear: 140m of rap rope (possible to use 100m and then thread the lead rope for last rap), lead rope, 20 long draws, rope protector. No slings required. Descent: Fix rap rope to two hard to spot ringbolts on slab at top of wall (they are narrow and camo painted). Walk down slope for 10m then rap over edge (place rope protector here). Once over edge rap down dirt slope for 10m then down wall next to small cave. Continue down past cave and into steeper ground. Kick a bit to reach double bolts at top of pitch 3 (about 35m down from cliff top). Short fix on these bolts and continue rapping down - its about 80m to the ground from this belay (using a dynamic rope with stretch).
| 150m, 6 | |||
25 | ★★★ Halo
Line on right side of wall. First pitch remains a closed project (stay off) - the pitches above are free to play on.
| 130m | |||
Blue Mountains Black Site Crags Adventure Park | |||||
22 | ★ Dividing Line
| 14m | |||
20 | ★ Oompa Loompas
| 13m | |||
23 | ★★★ Sick Slick Slab
| 18m | |||
26/27 | ★★★ No Country for Old Men
| 32m | |||
Project - Closed
| 36m | ||||
26 | ★★★ Curfew
| 35m | |||
24 | ★★ Lazy Boy
| 35m | |||
24 | ★★★ Vigilante
| 35m | |||
24 | ★★ Muscle Memory
| 36m | |||
25 | ★★ No End in Sight
| 35m | |||
23 | ★★★ Echo Chamber
| 35m | |||
22 | ★★ Clock Rocking
| 37m | |||
23 | ★ Flake Alternative
| 32m | |||
22 | ★★ Tanglefoot Arete
| 35m | |||
Blue Mountains Black Site Crags The Platform | |||||
22 | ★★ What Lurks Inside
Best warm-up here with an easy start that gets increasing pumpier up top. Starts up on the high ledge on the right side of crag. Rope up & climb sandy corner start of Ejector Seat to access this ledge and optional double bolt belay. Scramble up onto block then mantle into scoop to start. Best way to clean route is to get someone to 2nd it and they lower off back to the main platform. FA: The Caped Crusader & davedave, 29 Jul 2022 | 25m, 12 | |||
22 | ★★ Ejector Seat
Sandy corner on right edge of ledge for 4m then straight up steep wall. Lots of jugs. Baffling move at bolt 3. FA: The Caped Crusader & Match, 30 May 2022 | 25m, 11 | |||
24 | ★★ Pothole Causeway
Face 2m left of sandy corner. Intense sharp start, cruisy middle then harder sustained climbing for the last 4 bolts. Overhangs about 4m. FA: The Caped Crusader & Paul Frothy Thomson, 2022 | 25m, 12 | |||
24 | ★★ Hot Hands
Jump for big juggy break, swing left then up crux crimps to small ledge. Continue up featured steep wall. FA: The Caped Crusader & Millie, 6 Jun 2022 | 25m, 11 | |||
Blue Mountains Black Site Crags Black Site | |||||
25 | ★★ Mum's the Word
Short, but packs a punch. The steepest route here! Starts at the cairn. Route is wet in rain. Gnarly start to gain 2nd bolt, then easier beautiful steep finger-jugging to the top. Consider adding to the cairn until you can reach the starting mono. The first ascensionist could only just reach the mono at full stretch on the first ascent. If you pull up the 2nd bolt, its an awesome gr23. | 12m | |||
17 | ★ Belayer Bait
The far left right-facing flake. A great warmup (and excellent belayer bait)! FA: Match | 10m | |||
24 | ★★ Boosted
About 2m right of the far left end of the wall - just right of the short flake project. Short and intense with lots of bolts. Screw gate into the first bolt as an unclipped bolt will be the end of both belayer and climber. FA: The Caped Crusader, 6 Feb 2022 | 13m, 6 | |||
23 | ★★ Whistle Blower
Lovely orange rock from start to finish. Right trending start across line of pockets then up steep wall. Ask Monty about the leaf blower story. FA: The Caped Crusader, 26 Jan 2022 | 15m, 5 | |||
22 | ★★ Hush Hush
Outstanding right facing flake up high guarded by a tough face move to get off the ground. Way steeper and pumpier than you think it will be. FA: The Caped Crusader & Match, 22 Jan 2022 | 15m, 5 | |||
22 | ★ Sneaky Snorkeler
Bouldery start, jug city for a bit then speccy limestone like face climbing up the grey headwall. FA: The Caped Crusader, 6 Feb 2022 | 14m | |||
Luke Closed Project
| 14m, 6 | ||||
22 | ★★ Spook Flake
Pocketed orange wall to steeper ground and flake on right. Take care to avoid touching the humongous flake on the left when lowering off. FA: The Caped Crusader, 19 Feb 2022 | 15m | |||
19 | ★ Gumbo
A good warm up. Up slab to a sandy middle on easy ground than a quick trip up a steep corner on Arapiles style rock. FA: Match, 26 Jan 2022 | 15m | |||
24 | ★★ Needle Shield
Very nice top half up the white shield and orange ripples. Ledgy start just right of Gumbo. FA: The Caped Crusader, 26 Jan 2022 | 15m | |||
23 | ★★ Funky Venga Bus
Jump on the Funky Venga Bus, it won’t disappoint! Apparently It's like that by Run DMC and Jason Nevis sounds like a funky venga bus.... FA: Match & The Cabal, 22 Jan 2022 | 15m | |||
25 | ★★ Secret Squirrel
The first route climbed at this crag! Hard at the grade. Climbs the rust-brown rock left of the white streak (the Cabal). Very sustained, pumpy and technical, with a brutal sting in the tail. All thriller, no filler. FA: Paul Frothy Thomson & Match, 16 Jan 2022 | 15m, 6 | |||
26 | ★★ The Cabal
Climbs the improbable blank-looking white streak. Very cruxy. Powerful moves to gain the white rock, choose the LEFT line of bolts, and tackle extremely bouldery crux moving left to flake, followed by a technical and committing headwall. Might be significantly easier with a long enough wingspan. FA: Paul Frothy Thomson & Jared Tyerman, 22 Jan 2022 | 15m | |||
27 | ★★ The Syndicate
Start as for The Cabal to the 5th bolt, then punch up and right via pockets to crimp rail traverse. Truck right past one new bolt, then crux to gain left-facing flake-thing, followed by committing climbing to the anchor. Set: Paul Frothy Thomson FA: Claudio Trefny, 2 Jun 2023 | 15m, 6 | |||
25 | ★★ Cloak and Dagger (Linkup)
Links the best features of 3 routes into some of the most sustained climbing at the crag, while avoiding all the gnarly cruxes. Start up The Cabal, continue into the Open Project, and after clipping the last bolt, keep trucking right to gain the last bolt of "Summer of Rain" (long runner) and finish up that. | 18m | |||
23 | ★★ Summer of Rain
Glorious pumping. Starts off right side of small platform about 5m left of approach rope. Stick-clip 2nd bolt. Head slightly right at the 2nd bolt, then up on jugs to join pumpy, water-polished, gnarly finale. Anchors out left. FA: The Caped Crusader, 30 Jan 2022 | 15m | |||
22 | ★ For the Fans and Non Believers
Right trending steep overhanging jug haul to an awesome water washed finish. Starts 2m left of Pablo. FA: Match & Anzhela Malysheva, 28 Oct 2022 | 20m | |||
25 | ★★ The Life of Pablo
Named after the bone spur on the first ascensionist femur that was removed the day after the FA. Start at top of the knotted approach rope on far right end of ledge. Tricky mantle start, traverse right to a pocketed dyno and la rose finish on perfect rock. FA: Match & Greer Knight, 5 Feb 2022 | 20m | |||
27 | ★★★ Covid Conspiracy Capers
"Yes, the 5G I put in your Telstra pit gave you COVID." Unrelenting! Straight up slab left of the belay bolt. Boulder moves to turn the bulge, traverse left, then continue up the steep "slab" on inspiring white and grey rock, with surprisingly dynamic moves. FA: Paul Frothy Thomson & Matt King, 27 Feb 2022 | 20m, 8 | |||
23 | ★★ Deflated/Reinstated
A brilliant long climb, whose first iteration proved dissappointing, but whose reimagining produced a rare technical delicacy. Start as for Locus of Control (or via the much harder Covid Conspiracy Capers) to the ledge, clip long runner out left, then traverse left (crossing Covid Conspiracy Capers) via crux, and continue left until bolts guide you back up the wall. Despite appearances you can clean this route on lower-off ok without rethreading. FA: Paul Frothy Thomson & Match, 2022 | 20m | |||
25 | ★★★ Locus of Control
A zen-like cruise to a Margalef-like finale. There is alot to learn on on this banger. Starts right of the belay bolt. Up "corner" to tricky mantle. Continue up steep slab on beautiful pockets to rest. Meditate, and steel yourself for an intense, sustained, transcendental finish. New ethereal beta from the universe has made this route easier however it doesn't detract from its quality. If you want to earn 26 use the Mono out far left. FA: Match, Paul Frothy Thomson, Luke Hef & davedave, 25 Oct 2022 | 20m | |||
22 | ★★ Chocolate Rocket
Longest route at the crag! An old-school, improbable offering. Seeps after rain. Starts about 8m right of the approach rope - but down on ground level on rocky ramp. Tricky slab, to steep chocolate-coloured headwall on amazing pockets and jugs. FA: The Caped Crusader, 19 Feb 2022 | 26m | |||
18 | ★ Family Circus
Great warm-up and also suitable for top-roping as it's only vertical - unlike everything else at this crag. Far right route up orange streak, with a flake in the middle. Scramble in to belay ledge from the left end. FA: Dad, Mum, Kid & Gran | 15m, 8 | |||
Blue Mountains Cox's River Bouldering Six foot track boulders | |||||
V0 | ★ The scoop
10 metres down from OFC along the path, a boulder with a perfect (mossy) scoop and an easy climb up. FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 30 Oct 2016 | 4m | |||
V3 | ★ One hand crack
Located 30m past OFC, on North side of fthe path just before the wombat hole. 3 hand jams and a sidepull gets you to the top. Walk off. FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 30 Oct 2016 | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ 2
Close to WB, a black slab with some easy routes. FA: 30 Oct 2016 | 4m | |||
V0 | 1
Close to WB, a black slab with some easy routes. | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★★ White block
About 20m up the hill from OFC, mantle the shelf on the left and stand up to follow the slopers on the lip to the right edge and top out. Walk off. FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 30 Oct 2016 | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ One foot crack
This striking boulder is right next to the six foot track, you cant miss it. Climb the crack and walk off the back. FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 30 Oct 2016 | 5m | |||
Blue Mountains Cox's River Bouldering Falling Water | |||||
V2 | ★★★ Stitches
On the overhanging boulder with a flat face, hanging nose and brilliant architecture opposite the MTB. Up heading right to mantle from nose. | ||||
V1 | Stitches extension
Stitches extension starts at adjacent boulder and traverses along the lip into stitches proper | ||||
V0+ | ★★★ Phasing Out
Starting left hand side of MTB and up the arete with a balancy top out | ||||
V0 | ★★ Dude Skewed
Left hand arete of front face | ||||
V1 | ★★★ Game Set Snatch
Middle of the slab and over the top onto the back face. | ||||
V0+ | ★★ Tame the Impaler
Relatively unassuming Monolithic Triangular block (MTB) in the general area known as Kubrik's. Starts on right hand face and turns around onto front face and delicately up the arete and over the top (with a straddle perhaps) onto back low angled face to get off. | ||||
V0 | ★★★ The Keeper
In the amphitheater south of the main wall. In the middle of wall on rhs of the crypt. Line of large holds for feet and smaller layaways. | ||||
V1 | ★★★ Crypt Right Hand
Right hand arete of the crypt. Use whatever you can. | ||||
V1 | electric dihedral
far left hand dihedral - delicately up the dihedral - 3 pads will really help if you fall off the top out. Bad landing potential. Has been climbed all the way to topmost holds but bailed from the mantle till it is properly cleaned. | ||||
★★★ Untitled
layaway's in seam to flat jug and then slab top out. | 4m | ||||
V1 | ★★ Its Gonna Rain
Flakes and smears to mantle top out | 3m | |||
V0 | ★★ Step It
High step right of Reverse It, up to water polished jugs to top out | 3m | |||
V0 | ★★ Reverse It
High step and backwards to polished jugs | 3m | |||
V1 | ★★★ Pointillism
up steep slab - left hand ledge is off. Mid level crux It is maybe possible to escape left if you feel like you are blowing the crux foot moves. Climb with finesse through to the point. | 5m | |||
V0+ | ★ Microtimes
left of Pointilism - a three move wonder - mantle onto polished shelf. | ||||
★ Magnetic Wave
Short and desperate mantle | 3m | ||||
Blue Mountains Cox's River Bouldering Secteur Das Ramklotz | |||||
V4 | Fault Line
| ||||
V1 | ★★ Happy Hacky
|