Routes in Bouddi National Park

A mixed route that starts as for Feast For Fingers, moving up to the horizontal break at 7mts and traversing R across the wall into the cave. Mixed gear and a couple of rings

starts in the overhanging crack about 10mts L of FiP. Often wet at the base. Up the crack and onto the R wall/slab. Brackets required

The rounded arete on the R end of the Wall. Get here by walking about 300m down the track to Maitland Bay, then wandering about 50m R through the bush.

2m L of The Arete. Small slopers on the ironstone seam.

3m L of B. A devious problem.

Finger crack

The blunt arete/wall 1 metre right of cave entrance. Wires and small cams.

The obvious crack dividing the first two short walls of Wards Hill. There is a cave in behind the crack. Good beginners line

Start as for Burranburran and head in concave curve up through flake towards pointed boulder

A rather contrived little number on natural gear. Climb the wall 1.5 metres left of cave climb, avoiding the urge to step right

Hand crack straight to the point

Skitter up crack and around bulge. Hand to fist size

2 metres left of Feels Fine behind a big angophora. Climb the vertical weakness for 5 metres to belay ledge on right hand side of cave. Up the juggy roof and into the short crack above

Up super thin face past 2 rusty hex bolts.

Thin crack up the short wall.

The first crack you come to.

20m R of 15+. Short corner on R side of pedestal then short tricky face crack.

Stack your fist and hand and stick your stinger in the crack. Stay off left hand slab and ledge (too easy). Protect with large cams

Use all your feet to slither up the slab

Watch where you put your feet. Slab practice - holds optional

The western face of the outcrop known as Dog Face, at the top of the hill above Wagstaffe General Store.

FFTRA Will Monks, Peter Monks, Dec 96.

FFTRA Will Monks Dec 96

FFTRA Peter Monks, Will Monks Dec 96. The crack starting out the roof at the L end of the orange wall 200m above the southern end of Lobster Beach.

At the R end of the slabs above the beach known as Little Lobster, 150m N of Lobster Beach. Was a little slick on the FFTRA! Approx 30-50m N of the more recently established Lobster Cave routes.

Stretch your wings and stick those delicate feet

Bouldery start up to the labial feature,then straight up to the same anchors as BP

As you come down to the main wall there is a cave with 3 short routes up a pocketed overhanging wall that converge on the one anchor. Ginger is the right route of the 3.

The line up the middle of the cave. the shortest route in the cave.

Tough line finishing on the lip of the first cave. Up past 3 bolts then move out left and then straight out roof.

The left hand route up the corner of the cave moving R as you get higher and finishing at the anchors in the middle of the roof. There is a much harder variant if you elect not to use the rail at the top. Just pockets

A delightful stroll up the centre of the wall 3 metres left of the cave climb. High first bolt appears high but is easier then it looks. Fun climb. This route shares a double ring bolt lower off with George's Daughter.

Short, powerful, technical! Bust through the crux of calamari then head left on bad holds. Wrestle the bulge and traverse to finish at the anchors of Spider Pig. Bonus points if you find the bat-hang rest.

Start up Omega Free and traverse through Ados route and fishermans basket to anchors of Tartar.

The line of clean rock directly below the DRB, 1.5m L of Centrepiece and 1m R of the crappy 23. Clean rock and good moves including multiple underclings.

The far L climb on the first cliff. L of Georges daughter. Ring bolted.

Hex bolts to lower off outside cave.

A direct start to Omega Free with a hard compression boulder and a blank spot..

Up the nice orange/red rock moving leftward at the 3rd bolt. Then cast off left from good block to slopey crimpers and reachy moves, to get across to 4th bolt. Trend up and left to get stood up via little footers. Great technical climbing, that is well protected.

The first line on the R side of this wall. Hard move to start if doing direct and up past RB to first (bolt reinforced) flakey plate then move R to 2nd (bolt reinforced) flakey plate and up to anchors

First line of bolts inside the cave. Climb to the ledge then lean back to the small roof and follow right to anchors. Alt start also known as Spider Pig

This line runs up the centre of the wall starting 1mt L of "Plate of the Day". Up to bolt reinforced flake. and easy ground up to anchors

Follows the seam near the start of the cave on slopey goodness to ledge then traverse roof to Lofty's (spider pig's) anchors.

Starts 4mts L of Blubber Fish. The ramp trending L then up past two artificial holds (bolted and glued). Move R again up to L facing corner then to anchors

Hard moves to horizontal fissure, bolt up into cave rim and short wall with bolt above

Up slopes to undercling, then hard move to gain upper section of cave. Move left on slopey ledge to exciting sitting finish.Starts just after the first pinch gap on the low bolt. Back jump to clean.

Start as for Nauti Buoy up to the artificial holds then straight up to anchors

Climb the first four bolts on fishermans basket through short roof then right to anchors.

Starts 3mts L of Nauti Bouy in the alcove. Bridge your way up R passing two RB's in the roof to join Sin Bad. Finish as for SB anchors

Starts directly below left end of cave 3. Up past a chipped undercling and a few more chipped holds to slopey mantle into cave. Straight up rim of cave and hard move past bolt to finish.

Starts in the alcove but climbs the overhang opposite the start of WNKoF. Use same first 2 RB's as for WNKoF then hard moves up past the holds on the L side of the wall. Finish at the anchors

Up the first 2 bolts of Calamari to big break, then left along break to finish up Beautiful Box.

As for Will o'the Wasp , at 4 metres move right to double bolt belay in back of cave. Crux climb the overhang and short hard wall above

Start ontop of block at right end of cave, out past 4 bolts the hard move out right over lip to lower off at top.

Easily up wall to tough move below roof.

Next route 2mts L of Ramora (opposite wall to WNKoF). Start at the base of the obvious flake. Past first 2 RB's then R (crux) to gain the same upper section of Ramora.

Sustained classic 2 metres left of Will o'the Wasp is a thin seam running up to a little roof at 6 metres. Hard moves over the roof then the thin crack above to finish on the right end of the overhanging block. The start is affected by random seepage, making the second clip a bit desperate sometimes.

Start on "Omega Free" but go straight up after 3rd bolt to lower off "Fishermans Basket"

This climb starts and finishes beneath the left end of the overhanging block. Climb the vague bulge (bolt) onto a sloping ledge and a balancy clip. Continue diagonally right and up past crux, then back left below the block to anchors. One of the best on the coast. Paul riviere

Start 2m right of Omega free, straight up to Fisherman Basket anchours.

Follow (6) carrots through slopey goodness

Starts off block beneath a flake 2 metres left of Flash Me. Straight up past flake and a balancy undercling move out left a bit. Then tending right and finishing left of overhanging block at the same anchors as Flash Me. Sustained classic Paul riviere

Start on the face left of the block. Out roof then traverse left to anchors on Roast Lobster.

Slopey underclinging. Same start as 'Lobster' for the first 2 bolts then trend left onto 3 bolts to finish at 'Second Cave Carrots' anchors.

Clip the first bolt for LA but keep left and follow the line of bolts trending L and then straight up. Techo

Out roast lobster roof then continue to top out!

Original line bolted ground up, easier line moving slightly right to lower off under roof.

Start at crab stick then move right at 2nd bolt and finish at fishermans basket anchors.

Up 'Lobster', Diagonally right then through roof flake to lower off.

Traverse the entire wall at roof level right to left starting next to block at right end of cave.

An epic line that follows The Red into Roast Lobster Mornay all the way to the top of the cave.

Start at fishermans basket up to roof then traverse under roof left to right. One of the easier routes of the cliff.

First climb outside of the cave on the right side. Long way to the first bolt, probably best to stick-clip

The line moving slightly right with big move to bird poo slopey ledge.

Second climb out from the cave on the right side. 3 bolts to double rings at the top

Tough arete. Undercut start, past 2 rings to some amazingly formed pockets, up arete to lower off on slopey top.

Straight up wall and through roof on knob hold, then out right to finish on single ring.

Start as you would for 'Pinchy the Lobster' first 3 bolts then head right on the last 2 carrots of 'Second Cave Carrots'

recently 2014. crux may be hard than 25 but I was stronger back then. The undercut arete. start as for Malabar and move L.

the often wet overhanging arete that starts just before the big overhand. Look for the cairn to stand on. Chipped. Rebolted 2014

The orange overhanging open book corner to the L of the wet cave. The hardest part is keeping your feet dry on the bottom of the route.

The first line at the extreme R end of the crag. The short arete - a hard start, then easy past another bolt to a single ring lower off.

The wall/slab L of Orangtang. Rebolted 2014

The second most R route on the crag.Hard, thin moves up the face left of the arete. Single ring bolt belay. Can use an extender as well as a draw on Areptile's single ring bolt for additional protection.

The black streak 2 metres left of arete. Straight up for 2 or 3 bolts then diagonally left to double ring bolt anchor. Sustained and good fun

Sit start Left hand on T-shaped crack, right hand in undercling. Move up and left.

Start as top shelf and climb into broken boy soldier

Start as for "The Best Man" but instead head out right and top out. The arete is out.

Link Mad Max into Lethal Weapon. (Main jug rail is out as per Lethal Weapon)

Start as per TB and CM, but traverse further left again before heading up. Harder top out 1m left of CM.

From left hole and the chickenhead under the mini overhang, move straight up to crimp rail (partially broken) and top out via jugs. Went at about V6 until the crimper partially broke.

Traverse the back wall as for 'Universal solider' but instead of taking the hard exit up and around the head wall continue out below the lip to do the easier finish of one of the V4's. Super Pumper

Start: As for Top shelf

Start matched on crimpy edge on right side of boulder. Make your way across the face and then around the corner to topout/finish.