Routes in Hunter Valley for selected grade

chipped pockets to bolts, up arete then finger crack

From hanging belay step left onto other wall then up arete past 2 bolts ang small cams/wires

Boulder the wall to a bolt and mantle then continue via a second bolt and thin crack.

Striking finger crack which thins then disappears at 3/4 of the way up. Carrot then lower-offs. Exciting climbing!

Pitch 1: right trending diagonal to belay on sloping ledge 12m. Pitch 2 up to roof and diagonally left up crack 12m. Pitch 3: up overhanging corner right (crux) topull onto lichenous slab and meander up this for another 20 metres.

Ramp / slab to thin wall and a dubious brass ringbolt

Short wall stepping right to a hard flake. Run-out, still with the original carrot bolts.

Climb the thin crack above Lacolite Onion.

One of the best trad lines there is.

Climb the orange wall just left of the large cave past 3 carrot bolts to a #1 friend break below the roof. A steep reach past a final bolt leads to a large ledge. DBB now on ledge

Climb the right side of the first arete on the south side of the ridge to the large break. A hard move on the left of the arete, moving back right passing 3 bolts leads to the top

Start 1m R of Bones. Up crack #3.5 cam, yellow TCU, yellow link cam, small wires, to pink horn. Take a breath and do crux. Then more TCUs, RPs in micro seam and #1 cam, finger size cam then anchors.FInishes as for SS

Almost a sports route, rebolted on RBs. Right of Easy Meat arete. Up thin face, original headed left at second last bolt, now finishing direct past extra bolt then #4 cam to DBB. This climb stays damp for at least 24 hours after rain. Please stay off if it has rained within 24 hours to preserve the climb, and be delicate with the flake.

Up the initial flake on gear, then 3 fixed hangers to chain in small gully.

Climb the sickle crack and wall to finish.

Named because "the higher your bracket, the more you're taxed". No brackets required now after the re-bolt with rings. Sustained climbing starts at 'From Here to Eternity' then traverses right at half height then up on thin edges to very balancy crux, up to chains.

Up wall to gain first bolt, then tough moves the get past the 2nd.

Seam/ finger crack that bisects the wall.

called Save our sphincters

Climb the wall right of 'So' past 2 bolts to a long reach over a roof. Shared lower off with 'So'.

A hard variant. From the first bolt on Colour Card (clipping the second is advisable), step right the lurch up the thin wall directly (slopes and underclings)

Thin seam and arête at left end of wall. Finish up and right

The very thin wall past 2 bolts 4m right of Happy Heart Attack.

Climb the right arete of the ampitheatre past 3 ring bolts and #4 Camalot to a bolt belay at 15m. Shares final moves and anchors with Clickbait. Originally continued up easy ground, but better to lower off at anchor.

Splitter crack with a small roof down low then a sustained offwidth. Was 23M1, best done with 3 #6, 3 # 5, a .75 for a horizontal, # 4 and a # 9 and big bro for the top.

Climbs the wall right of Trash past 4 bolts with a thread runner in cave. The crux is passing the first 2 bolts on knobbly rock, though the remaining wall is sustained

Easy blocks to base of hanging chimney. Hard moves to get into groove, then up to HWL.

hand crack to offwidth

Up corner to roof then step right and continue up crack to top out. Bolts on block above. Often wet under roof.

This route has 2 pitches. P1 Climb easy ground carefully up block with minimal gear. On ledge their is a good wire placement, use a 600mm sling for drag. Up and left is good pocket for small cam/s, but route heads straight up on good edges, veering slightly right to foot ledge. Mantle onto ledge where good placements can be found. Thin seem on the slabbish wall heads straight up with small features, but there are plenty of placements. Interesting move off foot ledge to get half way up the seam, small feet and a few tricky moves to gain small pocket up and right. A slopey ramp guards the exit.

P2 Open book corner with some great movements following corner. Good gear, but balancy pressing/stemming moves to get to the fixed hanger 3/4 up the wall. Lean out left where two good pockets can be found and a 1 Camelot placement. Keep on left wall to get to big break and a 3 Camelot placement. Step onto big block to finish next to Squinting Albino Pasty Cook.

Pitch 1 is the better pitch.

Same start as for Dopey Mick but go straight up through overlaps to roof and then on to top. Good wire in shallow crack just over roof protects crux. Stay to the right of Dopey Mick up the blunt arete with good pods for gear. Can belay off DBB to left.

From start, climb up to gain feature with a right hand layaway to get first pieces in. Nice footwork gains block up and left and more small but good gear. Balance up to get a good stance. Reach up to get flare and a cam, then tricky moves guard little rooflet. Final moves up groove to get to ledge, up and right to find double U bolt belay/loweroff. Excellent climbing on small gear, recommended

Up blunt arête 2 m right of Chin up passing 2 ring bolts and a horizontal break ( #3 and #4 cam) going left past hanging tree ( not necessary to hang on to) and left to arête to finish as for chin up

The arête R of animals route. Up past good #2 cam and several essential RPs to first hex bolt. Up to second bolt then turn roof to the right. Up to anchor RBs.

Bridge the classic corner left of sharks fin. Up past 3 bolts then swing right to sharks fin belay.

The thin friable wall 3m right of arete past 2 bolts and a letterbox type hole.

Climb Guardian Angel for about 5m and traverse left before reaching the first bolt via 2 slots to a very small triangular ledge, then up arete and crack.

Old description: "Climb Gardian Angel for about 6m to a rusty piton. The traverse out left to the arete...past a small slot. Climb the sensational crack system and arete to top."

Climb 'A Void' to the roof, clip the third bolt over the roof, then climb the wall left of the bolt to belay as for Joe’s Climb.

Bold direct finish to the Avenger. Climb the final slab directly, past a single bolt.

Joe’s Climb is followed to the roof, from where a short traverse right brings the lip of the roof and a bolt to hand. Lunge through the roof via a flake to finish at the tree belay of Joe’s Climb or continue directly up the wall above passing a bolt.

Clip Dynamo's bolt then lunge the roof from the right hand side.

Thin diagonal crack on wall with sapling at half height. Dirty, but possible to top rope now from anchors of CC. Takes thin gear

Start 20m right of "The Big Swing". Climb crack to the top of a large block, then tackle the great looking overhanging hand crack.

A low level traverse across the left wall of Stopper leads past the arete to horizontal breaks, from here, the wall above is climbed direct past 2 bolts to an exit crack and bolt belay

The offwidth corner to the right of F sharp, and at the left of the Shuffler wall. Gear from #4 to #6 (#5s the most useful). Up to ledge then up the wide corner crack

1m right of cave, passing 3 RBs to crack at left of roof. Cams to #1.

Climb the orange wall past a bolt left of the left arete of Stopper, to join The Future's So Bright.

Start as for Fin crack but head right through overlaps. At second overlap head straight up past carrot. Needs anchor.

The buldging wall and seam right of Stopper, past 2 FHs to DRB. Small nuts and RPs and cams. A true test piece of trad climing which defied strong lead attempts for 4 years until it went free. Originally had only 1 BR until repeated falls onto a #2 nut destroyed the placement

4 bolts in about 17m. Small cam will go between 2nd and 3rd bolt . Start 2m left of crack that bisects wall.

Arete past 3 carrot bolts

Lay-away the arête past 2 carrot bolts

The left most route closest to the ocean starting under a triangular roof Hard moves under and over the roof then more easily to the top

The arête right of PP and face holds to the right of arête.

Top rope- straight up thin seam and crack to anchors. Dirty.

The right arête of main wall

Starts 2m left of PP. Up through thinness to mono, then right to good rail and finish as for BS. Leaving as a top rope due to the flaky nature of the holds.

Start as for crack but go straight up overhung pocketed wall

Into alcove just right of nose. Up over nose onto slab, easier if tall

1m right of nose up and left on diagonal line

Right side of sinuous rib of rock in centre of the wall. Left of scar-like feature to pocket and straight up past the horizontal break. Top section is likely much harder if not tall.

Overhung arete, a bit contrived but fun

Right of blunt arete up thin seam, starting at two knobs

Commence at base of slab. Straight up the blunt arete split by a thin crack with increasing difficulty.

The corner crack and stemming

South side Triple Hex Belay. Opposite Eastern-most bolt, FACE only, to right of mini arete feature.

From Toprope belay as for STEM, follow the series of flakes (security not guaranteed!). FACE ONLY. Starts from the basalt on the floor where it peaks.

The scoop between Electric Turkey and Hang In There Baby. Bridging makes the route grade 17, the grade comes from it being a face climb. SS glue in Bolts ( brackets needed) and Stainless steel chain and shackle anchor date from 2004

Up past thin crack to ledge then diagonally right through overlap

The arete right of Covid Crack

The right hand route on terrace, adjacent to large flake. Stay on line of ringbolts and dont stray over right to easier ground for full value. Has ring bolts above on ledge, requiring abseiling to clean, due to poor rock quality.

Up open corner past hard moves at 4th bolt. Ignore anchors to left, step right and continue up the finish of Dans face climb

Start up billy woods then follow the line of bolts out left.

From near lowest part of pinnacle amble up diagonal the reach left and onto wall. Pumpy moves past 2 bolts then up, moving slightly right into corner then slab and anchors to left

The line of bolts just left of five fingers

Up the orange coloured rock to stance under steep wall, move up and out right to finish as for Decaf

Long and pumpy. Consistent climbing up the left end of wall.

Bouldery start and into flake

Reachy through roof to good edges. Best to use double ropes to avoid groundfall. 2RB

The arete right of Avalanche, steep start.

Starting on the smooth white rock 2m right of billy. Straight up the vague crack and pump it out to top.

Overhung start at crack to ledge then step left and up through bulges to top out. Anchor is 2 bolts over edge. Need bolt brackets and slings. Easy to clean walking out.

To right of Cocky Monkey. Follow carrots up hand crack and over roof to last RB on CM and up to anchors. PFH 45 degree plates dont fit.. Refrigerator size block has come off to the right of the bolts in mid 2015. Likely to have more loose blocks.

The ironstone sheeted wall right of Orangutang is climbed past a bolt (crux) to a break, finishing via a second bolt near the arete. Start either from the crack on the right (21) or a hard pull on the arete (23).