Nodes in Middle Head

Ideallic location with bullet hard black rock overlooking beautiful sandy white beach.

Idyllic location on bullet hard black rock on the beach with soft sandy landings, potential for futuristic bolted climbs.

Start R on rail move L through crimps, undercling and then back down through block slopers and crack before moving back up to finish on the juggy rail of BU

Sit start and up crimps.

Note - The sand level does move occasionally obscuring the sit start foot holds.

Sit start on two low holds, up to block.

Note - The sand level does move occasionally obscuring the sit start foot holds.

Sit start at two jugs, and straight up crimps into undercling, and mantel over.

Note - The sand level does move occasionally obscuring the sit start foot holds.

Sit start as Left Shrinkage and head left and up mantle directly over.

Note - The sand level does move occasionally obscuring the sit start foot holds.

Warm up problem here.

Up pockets to crimp then to the top. Please don't mantel this problem, to preserve the vegetation above.

Start 1m R of DLAJF. Move up through obvious jugs before pushing out to the final, shallow-dish of a hold

Layback line to a big reach. Jump from top, watch the vegetation. Please don't mantel this problem, to preserve the vegetation above.

Crimpy start finishing off with a large move to a good jug.

Sit start. Up through obvious blocks into small jugs before stepping/mantling R onto large block.

An extension of TCN. From the top of the block stand high and move up through small sharp pockets. Match finish in obvious horizontal break. A rascal of a climb with dizzying heights.....

Up big flakes to large jug. Easy but fun.

Start as for Meat Hook but veer left after the meat hook flake to finish at jug.

Same start as P.P. Low ball, traversing R through features at about 1m height above the sand. Once at the obvious corner traverse R at about 2m above sand. same finish as P.P.

Same corner block match-start as Sandgroper. From here at the caves edge traverse R over sharp, juggy holds of M.H and R.B and through blocky jugs to corner. Continue R along wall to obvious rest halfway through route. Continue R through until Pandanus. Use face holds the whole way (i.e. the top of the wall is out).

Stand start match on the obvious corner block above ledge. Move up through block and into obvious corner crack. Follow to top where it is dissected by a diagonally left sloping seam. Move through obvious pocket/block at the bottom L-hand end of this seam and continue out left to sharp jug. Move up and R to finish in obvious pocket. Scope for extension.

Still a project ...

Starting from the ledge beneath S.G. traverse L and low past the start of S.F. and into an obvious deep crackline. Finishes at constriction.

The broken upper tier wall above and to the right of Lowtai Cave. No sandy landing up here it's all grass and rocks. Relatively good quality sections of rock but there are chossy bits. Mainly high ball climbs

A good beginners route with interesting juggy features up a small slab. A little blocky at top. Easy descent to the R.

Starts 1m R of TC. Up broken corner.

A slab of interesting features. Follow out left before heading up to top out. See P for descent notes.

This route starts at the R-hand end of the upper tier. Access by climbing any of the routes below and carefully traversing L or walking up descent path. Up short broken crack and into large juggy crack (running diagonally L) before exiting up obvious top-out. Note: This short route is very exposed!

The rock walls on the south side of Middle Head.

Start in bottom of crack beneath overhanging block. Follow crack diagonally up and L to get established on arête before committing to an awkward mantle top out.

Start at broken crack lines/blocks L of the arête of NLNC. Move up features and finish through same awkward mantle top out as for NLNC.

The obvious crack line 4m L of NLNC. Follow line up and out.