Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Boulder | |||||
V1 | Asshole in the Middle of your Back
Up the right corner, with fun bridging off a finger sized crack. Deadpoint the jug and top out toward the left. Start: While facing 'Bunny Nuggets', turn around and walk into the gully to the left. The right most corner before the short slab. FA: Dan Roe, 2008 | Boonoo Boonoo Falls | |||
V1 | Bunny Nuggets
Sit start at the base of obvious crack. FA: Dan Roe?, 2008 | Boonoo Boonoo Falls | |||
V1 | ★ Slabs on toast
Balancie.. moving right wards up the face FA: Krishna | 3m | Lighthouse beach | ||
V1 | ★ Direct left
Avoiding the cracks on both side and moving straight up from the jug into the thin side pull and to the horizontal break at the top of the wall. Fun FA: Krishna | 3m | Lighthouse beach | ||
V0 | ★ Left traverse
Using all the good holds and traverse left at the horizontal break FA: Gopal Thorburn | 3m | Lighthouse beach | ||
V0 | ★ Direct right
Move rightwards and up around the blunt arrest | 3m | Lighthouse beach | ||
V4 | ★★ Nose
Sit start on broken jug, up holds on arete. Bad rock for feet, walking up slightly right side until standing on broken jug. Then straight up arete. | 3m | Lighthouse beach | ||
V1 | Egg nostril
On the left face FA: Gopal Thorburn | 3m | Lighthouse beach | ||
V2 | ★ A1
start seated on block | Lighthouse beach | |||
V5 | ★ A2
Tricky arete with bad feet, grade changes depending on sand level. | Lighthouse beach | |||
V2 | ★ A3
Up left hand layback crack, around following crack to join A2. | Lighthouse beach | |||
V1 | ★★ A4
From shield follow twin hourglass cracks to large rails in centre of steep face, up to find pockets ontop. | Lighthouse beach | |||
V0 | ★ A5
Layaway right crack to jug and hand jam. | Lighthouse beach | |||
V1 | ★ A6
Thrutchy wide corner crack. | Lighthouse beach | |||
V4 | ★★ A7
Layaway dirty crack to ferny break, out to slopers on rail arete, then side pull mantel. | Lighthouse beach | |||
V0 | A8
Juggy slab with wide pinch. | Lighthouse beach | |||
VB | A9
Up cracks. | Lighthouse beach | |||
V2 | ★ A10
Traverse along break. | Lighthouse beach | |||
V1 | ★★ A12.
| Lighthouse beach | |||
V1 | ★ A13.
Standing start, smear and slap. | Lighthouse beach | |||
V3 | ★ A15
Can only be done when sand level is super low. | Lighthouse beach | |||
V3 | ★ B1
Right hand side pull to left hand pinch on small sharp arete, stay on arete to top. | Lighthouse beach | |||
V1 | B2
Middle of face | Lighthouse beach | |||
V1 | B3
Blunt arete. | Lighthouse beach | |||
V3 | ★ B4
Eliminate thin side pull, dyno from jug to break. | Lighthouse beach | |||
VB+ | ★ B5
Straight up jugs to mantel. | Lighthouse beach | |||
V1 | B6
Avoid small block on right at feet, bad landing. | Lighthouse beach | |||
V2 | ★★ A11.
| Lighthouse beach | |||
V3 | A14
| Lighthouse beach | |||
V0 | C1
| Lighthouse beach | |||
V1 | ★★ C2
Will need a good spot! | Lighthouse beach | |||
V1 | ★★ C3
Highball. Layaway large suspect looking hanging block to jugs and a reach to top, then victory pocket. | Lighthouse beach | |||
V3 | ★★ C4
Gaston up middle of face to jugs. | Lighthouse beach | |||
V1 | ★ C5
Start on sharp block in corner, up left face with some bridging for feet. | Lighthouse beach | |||
V1 | ★ C6
Small arete, some loose rock in corner at top. | Lighthouse beach | |||
V0 | ★ C7
Up juggy arete avoiding both left and right blocks. High and narrow landing. | Lighthouse beach | |||
V3 | C8
Awkward start on jugs on right side, thin to pocket in middle of block at top. | Lighthouse beach | |||
V4 | ★★ D1
Nice steep little arete. | Lighthouse beach | |||
V5/6 | ★ D2
FA: Sascha Paul, 2019 | Lighthouse beach | |||
V0 | ★ D3
In corner, up past fin. | Lighthouse beach | |||
V2 | D4
Thin dirty face. | Lighthouse beach | |||
V0 | D5
Juggy arete | Lighthouse beach | |||
VB | D6
Dirty corner crack with chock stone. | Lighthouse beach | |||
V0 | D7
Cracks up face | Lighthouse beach | |||
V0 | ★ D8
Jugs up arete. | Lighthouse beach | |||
VB- | ★★ D9
Layaway to jugs and easy top out. | Lighthouse beach | |||
V2 | ★ D10
Hug and crimp to mantel. | Lighthouse beach | |||
V4 | ★ D11
Off width, start on jug on right block, up left block with some bridging and foot jamming to top out on left block. | Lighthouse beach | |||
V4 | ★★ D12
Hug up block to pocket and tricky mantel on top, avoid blocks either side! | Lighthouse beach | |||
V2 | E1
Dirty, Avoid blocks either side. Loose at top on right side, stay in middle or left at top! | Lighthouse beach | |||
V2 | ★ E2
Nice. Up face to pocket. | Lighthouse beach | |||
V3 | ★★ E3
Good arete with a reach. | Lighthouse beach | |||
VB- | ★★ E4
| Lighthouse beach | |||
V3 | ★ E5
Contrived low start, avoid leaning block with toe hook. | Lighthouse beach | |||
V3 | ★ F1
Start sitting over hole, don't fall down it! | Lighthouse beach | |||
V5 | ★ F2
Start sitting on block, up slapping right arete and thin holds on face to finish up large pocket on left side of face. | Lighthouse beach | |||
V2 | F3
Weird and scary! | Lighthouse beach | |||
V1 | F4
| Lighthouse beach | |||
V2 | F5
Slab | Lighthouse beach | |||
V2 | G1
From break to sloper side pull and jugs up arete. | Lighthouse beach | |||
V3 | G2
Follow holds on left side of block using smaller blocks for feet at start. | Lighthouse beach | |||
G3
Project | Lighthouse beach | ||||
V1 | G4
From crack up jugs, straight up. | Lighthouse beach | |||
V3 | G5
From break slap right arete to pockets on face. | Lighthouse beach | |||
V3 | G6
Low jug at back right to jug on lip with feet under roof, mantel. | Lighthouse beach | |||
★ H1
Project | Lighthouse beach | ||||
V4 | H2
Awkward, reachy and bad landing! Up blocky steps on steep face to jugs on lip, then reach of faith to large pocket way back. | Lighthouse beach | |||
H3
Project | Lighthouse beach | ||||
H4
Project | Lighthouse beach | ||||
H5
Project...Small pocket to sloper, more doable than others here. | Lighthouse beach | ||||
V3 | H6
| Lighthouse beach | |||
V1 | Behave you bastards
On same boulder as A15. Squat start on horizontal crack. Toe hook to mantle top out. FA: Jeff G | 2m | Lighthouse beach | ||
V1 | Ya dickhead
Sit start. From crimpy horizontal ledge on overhang to crimpy flake above. Mantle to top out. Adjacent boulder is out. FA: artie G | 2m | Lighthouse beach | ||
V1 | J1
Layaway | Lighthouse beach | |||
V0 | J2
Avoid climbing over ledge on left! | Lighthouse beach | |||
V0 | J3
Jam crack to jugs at top. | Lighthouse beach | |||
V2 | ★ J4
Up cracks from block at feet. To large pocket, was better before rock arrived after storm. | Lighthouse beach | |||
J5 Proj
| Lighthouse beach | ||||
V5 | ★★ J6
Layaway from jam crack to gaston on face, then out left to pocket. | Lighthouse beach | |||
V1 | J7
Jam | Lighthouse beach | |||
V1 | ★ J8
| Lighthouse beach | |||
VB | J9
| Lighthouse beach | |||
V1 | J10
| Lighthouse beach | |||
V3 | ★ J11
Get down low and go. | Lighthouse beach | |||
V5 | ★ J12
Watch your back! From pocket up and over with bad feet. | Lighthouse beach | |||
V4 | ★★ J13
Follow pockets all the way to last pocket around arete then up. Wish it was longer. | Lighthouse beach | |||
V3 | ★ J14
From pockets straight up. | Lighthouse beach | |||
V3 | ★ J15
From pockets up and then join J13. | Lighthouse beach | |||
V2 | ★ J16
| Lighthouse beach | |||
V0 | J17
Often has dirty top out! | Lighthouse beach | |||
V3 | ★ J18
Side pull to pocket and crimps, often dirty at top! | Lighthouse beach | |||
V2 | ★ J19
| Lighthouse beach | |||
V1 | J20
| Lighthouse beach | |||
V0 | J21
| Lighthouse beach | |||
V6 | ★★ Cloudrider
Span start to jug on slabby feet, left rock is out. Ride it baby... FA: Postman, 31 Dec 2020 | 4m | Lighthouse beach | ||
V0 | ★★ Fisherman's cast arête
The boulder is found another 50m on from the last rope climb. Local fisherman's spot. This was the first line climbed here, and the best. Beautiful laybacking with a heel hook up the right arête. The line is from a stand start but a sit start has also been done, maybe at a V1 but adds no value. Finish on the top of the boulder with a nice mantle. FA: Taliesin St. john, 7 Jul 2021 | 4m | Surf Rock | ||
V1 | ★ Fish guts arête
Sit start the left arête of the overhanging boulder. Left hand on corner of the arete and right in a pocket lower down, may need to squat if small. Burly moves for the grade through a series of pockets, crimps staying on the right face using the arête to the top of the boulder. FA: Taliesin St. john, 8 Jul 2021 | 3m | Surf Rock | ||
V4 | ★★ Fisherman's moonboard
Very cool kinda dyno, kinda sideways deadpoint. Start on two rails facing outwards in the middle of the boulder. Find a key foot and swing out to the left and up to a pocket. I could catch this out stretch but any smaller wingspan may need to properly dyno. From the pocket climb to the top and top out the boulder. Sit start may also be possible at a higher grade. Also may be possible statically. FA: Taliesin St. john, 8 Jul 2021 | 3m | Surf Rock | ||
V0 | ★ Cold Feet
| Joggly point cave | |||
V1 | ★ Wet Blanket
| Joggly point cave |