Ascents in Middle gorge by Brendan Heywood

Oh man, too too much of a good thing. I was getting spent 10 or 15 problems ago and was just like a kid at the show. I had one attempt at this and was just so keen to put it together but I finally shut down. Possibly the most sends in a day ever! So much froth, and we didn't even get to the crack cave or to a bunch of stuff at slippery rocks that we scouted in the morning. Always gotta leave something for next time

I love it when people joke about a SDS and then it comes actually appears from nowhere

I think ties with Caudal fin direct as best problem of the day

smooth but feature rock, just perfect

Messed up the start but got it second go. Very marginal friction and kinda trying to pry open the welded seam to get anything out of it

Just great

Took 2 goes to get this, lots of slapping and core

Wasn't sure I would get this, the hold just hasn't feeling great and I was barely slapping it. Stacking a second pad was counter productive as they just sagged more when you pounce, and I was getting worse. Then James stuck the hold but then got tangled in the mantle, so it was unlocked. After that it was a send train

The only one I didn't onsight and I was on a mission so didn't get back to it. So good to just get into flow and grind through so many problems in quick succession without any rests, was pretty smashed after

Wrestled this a few times but couldn't pull on, using a very marginal left hump

Gave this one attempt, thought if I could get my right foot on the chip I might be able to make some progress but it gets exponentially harder

Tried this quite a lot gradually chipping away at it, starting left on the really low crimp for balance. But turned out matching and just a big dyno sorted it much quicker

Such a beautiful unique line! Delicate and thuggish at the same time

Harder and probably even better. I think had a false start and got is second try

More sloper goodness

Thought this might yield two different lines but was spicy enough as is. I think there will be a harder link up to the right. I think second go

At first sight though this would be more of a puzzle but was surprisingly easy, the rock is really interesting fracture pattern like shattered honey comb