Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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17 |
★★ Guided Missile (Guided Missile P1)
1
17
30m
| 30m | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Sat 24th Apr 2021 | ||||
First pitch only. Pretty good, rock quality was OK. Found the belay ledge very uncomfortable.
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12 | ★★ Bojangles - with Anja | 110m | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Sat 4th Aug 2018 | ||||
12 | ★★ Bojangles - with Dave | 100m | Kaputar | ★★★ Classic | Fri 23rd Oct 2020 | ||||
Excellent climb with plenty of good pro and mega jugs. The first pitch is the money, but the whole thing is fantastic. Careful of rope drag on the first pitch, take plenty of long extenders.
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12 | ★★ Bojangles - with Graham Dowden, Terry Neill | 95m | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Sun 25th Apr 2021 | ||||
22 |
FA
★ Quirkiness
1
19
45m
2
22
| 45m, 18 | Kaputar | Average | Thu 5th Apr 2018 | ||||
FFA. First pitch was quite dreadful due to rock quality. Second pitch had much better rock and a goey move
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24 | ★ Everlasting Stars | 33m, 15 | Kaputar | ★ Good | Mon 11th Dec 2017 | ||||
I hated the start rock quality but the route grew on me, with good technical moves and increasing pump, spent about 15 minutes climbing up and down at 4 th bolt before committing and then somehow held on with lovely slab moves at end. Probably third ascent, so no chalk, and quite dirty and 4 crumbling holds I somehow stayed on
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23 23 R | ★★ Edge Effects | 40m, 5 | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Sat 29th Sep 2007 | ||||
23 | ★★ You'll be right Mate | 30m | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Sun 24th Apr 2016 | ||||
Would be classic if it wasn't Kaputar rock. Great varied climbing
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23 | ★★ Antipodean Tippler | 30m | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Sun 20th Aug 2017 | ||||
Stick clip as the first two bolts are surrounded by choss.
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23 | ★★ Peeving Parrot | 28m | Waa Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Fri 24th Aug 2018 | ||||
23 | ★★ Peeving Parrot | 28m | Waa Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Wed 31st Jul 2019 | ||||
23 | ★★ Mungindi Glove - with Krysten, Ben | 25m, 1 | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Sun 11th Apr 2021 | ||||
Highest onsight yew
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22 | ★★ Slip, Slop, Slap | 20m, 4 | Kaputar | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
22 | ★★ Slip, Slop, Slap | 20m, 4 | Kaputar | ★★★ Classic | Mon 1st Oct 2007 | ||||
22 | ★★ Slip, Slop, Slap | 20m, 4 | Kaputar | 2001 | |||||
22 | ★★ Slip, Slop, Slap | 20m, 4 | Kaputar | Thu 14th Apr 2016 | |||||
22 | ★ Immaculate temptress | 20m | Kaputar | ★ Good | Sun 24th Apr 2016 | ||||
Again a bit dirty, but really nice climbing
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22 | ★★ Dreams of Solitude | 30m | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Sun 24th Apr 2016 | ||||
Great moves
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22 | ★★ Slip, Slop, Slap - with Gee Buck, Geoff Tosio | 20m, 4 | Kaputar | ★★★ Classic | Sun 2nd Oct 2016 | ||||
Fantastic climbing with just the right number of FHs.
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V3 | ★★ Sli Fi - with Deon Heemskerk, Isaac Searant | 5m | Moonbi slabs | ★★ Very Good | Mon 19th Dec 2016 | ||||
Slabby highball with the promise of being cheese grated. Good crimps and crystal pinches if you can find them and a final mantle move.
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22 | ★★ Sheer Tenacity (Fantini arete) | 20m, 11 | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Fri 30th Mar 2018 | ||||
Nice technical arête.
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22 | ★ Tyrannosaurus flex | Waa Gorge | Sun 9th Sep 2018 | ||||||
fantastic moves
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22 | ★★ Twenty step derailler | 40m, 20 | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Fri 7th Dec 2018 | ||||
Good rock for this part of the wall, and a strong line. Best to avoid the semi hanging belay and do it as a long pitch
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22 | ★★ Sheer Tenacity - with Grace Mackie | 20m, 11 | Kaputar | Wed 26th Aug 2020 | |||||
ended up finding this one pretty strenuous heading up the arete. got some serious left arm pump. cool moves through the middle section.
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22 | ★★ Sheer Tenacity - with Stephen Varney | 20m, 11 | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Mon 11th Jan 2021 | ||||
An EOD lap. Though rather dirty and untrafficked, there is some great gnarly (and somewhat desperate) arete climbing on this. I had to try quite hard for the onsight.
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22 | ★★ Snuggles and the Dragon - with Ben Hope, Kyle, Clive | 30m, 5 | Kaputar | ★★★ Classic | Sat 13th Jan 2024 | ||||
Actually super fun after the not great rock quality in the first 2 meters
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22 | ★ No trachyte for old men - with Ben Hope, Kyle, Clive | 30m | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Sat 13th Jan 2024 | ||||
again, very good after the initial low band of meh quality rock
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21 | ★★ The Hippy Hippy Shake | 18m, 4 | Kaputar | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
21 21 R | ★★ Pork Orgy | 15m, 1 | Kaputar | Average | Sat 25th Feb 2006 | ||||
still a death route
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21 | ★★★ New Romantic | 60m | Moonbi slabs | ★★★ Mega Classic | 1984 | ||||
Fanstastic slab climbing
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21 21 R | ★★ Pork Orgy | 15m, 1 | Kaputar | ★★★ Classic | Thu 7th Oct 2004 | ||||
Classic slab!! quite run out near top.
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21 | ★★ Rigor Mortis | 35m | Kaputar | 2001 | |||||
21 | ★ Deaf Frights | 35m, 3 | Kaputar | ★ Good | Sat 29th Sep 2007 | ||||
21 | ★★ The Hippy Hippy Shake | 18m, 4 | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Sat 25th Feb 2006 | ||||
nice shiny bolts and only a bit run out...
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21 | ★★ The Hippy Hippy Shake | 18m, 4 | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Sat 1st Apr 2006 | ||||
21 | ★★ The Hippy Hippy Shake | 18m, 4 | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Sat 25th Feb 2006 | ||||
Kinda easy for the grade, but great moves and sparse bolting, if you make it to the top you don't need the wires.
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21 | ★★ Bolted route to right | 15m | Kaputar | Average | Tue 23rd Oct 2012 | ||||
Not bad, but scary rock low down. A cam below 2nd bolt useful.
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21 21 R | ★★ Pork Orgy | 15m, 1 | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Sun 14th Apr 2013 | ||||
Hmmm, quite a few new bolts on this now. Still great technical climbing through some weird bulges and up a slab, but the notorious danger aspect of this climb is now gone. Reasonably sustained.
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21 | ★★ Bolted route to right - with Ili | 15m | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Sat 15th Jun 2013 | ||||
21 | ★★★ Micawber - with Richard Curtis | 77m | Kaputar | ★★★ Classic | Sun 7th Jun 2015 | ||||
A very inspiring climb. This route has it all, and yes, pro just when you need it. The first pitch is sustained and absolutely golden. The second pitch is enjoyable climbing and allows you a bit of recovery from the first. Richard just cruised up the bloody route a silly amount of years after he did the first ascent.
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21 21 R | ★★ Pork Orgy | 15m, 1 | Kaputar | ★★★ Classic | Thu 14th Apr 2016 | ||||
21 | ★★ Rigor Mortis | 35m | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Mon 25th Apr 2016 | ||||
Despite the name, it's not very stiff for the grade.
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21 | ★★ Adventures in Drongoland (Barley 3) | 30m | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Mon 25th Apr 2016 | ||||
Did this with a trail rope and double trad rack. Was trying to get into primal scream, but didn't quite work.
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21 21 R | ★★ Pork Orgy - with Alan Ezzy, Amy O'Toole, Iliane Beuke, Richard Curtis, carol lee, Brendan Heywood | 15m, 1 | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Sat 11th Jun 2016 | ||||
A solid warm-up, sparse up top but its all there.
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21 | ★★ The Hippy Hippy Shake - with Max | 18m, 4 | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Mon 26th Sep 2016 | ||||
21 21 R | ★★ Pork Orgy - with Adrian Kladnig | 15m, 1 | Kaputar | ★★★ Classic | Mon 26th Sep 2016 | ||||
21 | ★★★ Blood on the Moon - with carol lee | 75m | Kaputar | ★★★ Classic | Mon 22nd May 2017 | ||||
Was a little intimidated about getting on this one but so stoked that we did. P1 - lead (clean). Best pitch I've done at Kaputar to date. Nice sporty slab to warm into the route, pro gets a little spaced above. The upper section and traverse are committing, exposed, gripping and memorable! Some damp holds at the end of the T added some extra spice. Added a cordelette to what looks like a historical collection at the first anchor. P2 and P3 - second (clean). A little bit of an anticlimax after P1. Nice lead by Caz up crack and straight through obvious goey line in buldge (which was also wet). With 60m twins Caz decided to link the last two P’s, finishing up an interesting techy little slab split by a finger crack.
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21 | Ernest efforts | 20m | Kaputar | ★ Good | Thu 1st Jun 2017 | ||||
A pleasant surprise. Good moves, a bit grotty down low.
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21 | Leaning off the edge | 20m, 12 | Kaputar | Don't Bother | Sun 8th Apr 2018 | ||||
Maybe I am just tired, but this line seems confused about its intent and doesn't climb well.
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21 | ★★ Caressing the Diamond Bird | 25m, 8 | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Thu 7th Jun 2018 | ||||
The crack in the middle is very nice. The start is a retro bolt of BGUTI, the finishing arête is tricky with no wear or chalk for clues
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21 |
★★★ Micawber
- with
Grace Mackie
| 77m | Kaputar | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 27th Aug 2020 | ||||
Absolutely mega first pitch! Felt a lot harder than some other 21's that I've done recently 😆 Onsighted both pitches on lead.
P1- fairly straightforward climbing to start with until you hit the stemming corner. Managed to find a hands-free rest partway through which helped manage the calf-pump. Found it pretty tricky getting myself out of the corner to reach out to the hand-crack. Much more strenuous crack moving than I have done in a while but got much nicer the higher I went. I think my brain was tired after this pitch because I rigged one of my least comfortable bays ever... P2- pretty shitty pitch but required to top out, and pretty sure I was in the correct corner system. Quite vegetated and lots of friable rock. Breaking off 4 footholds in the first 5-10m certainly did not inspire much confidence. |
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21 | ★★ The Hippy Hippy Shake - with Clive | 18m, 4 | Kaputar | Mon 26th Apr 2021 | |||||
21 | ★★ The Hippy Hippy Shake - with big crew | 18m, 4 | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Sat 23rd Apr 2022 | ||||
Could do with some lower offs
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21 | ★★ The Hippy Hippy Shake | 18m, 4 | Kaputar | Fri 28th Apr 2023 | |||||
Beautiful balancy climbing up the arete in the setting sunshine. Didn't really have to pull on anything. Failed to carry up the trad rack so cleaned using the Slip, Slop, Slap anchors, which made for quite a bit of effort.
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21 | ★★★ Micawber - with Luke Hef | 77m | Kaputar | ★★★ Classic | Sat 2nd Sep 2023 | ||||
Led this in one pitch, really fun stemming most of the way, a small section swimming of amazing hand jams.
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21 | ★★★ Blood on the Moon - with Luke Hef | 75m | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Sun 3rd Sep 2023 | ||||
Wow... talk about a heady climb, this one will keep your resume honest on the onsight!
Absolutely stella climbing 👌... will have to come back for the full tick as we found lower off slings at the top of the first pitch, decided to taste test other things.
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20 | ★ Katzenjammer Kraks | 60m | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Wed 25th Sep 2002 | ||||
20 | ★★ Clamp-down | 30m | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Sat 29th Sep 2007 | ||||
20 | ★★ Comic Crack | 42m | Kaputar | 2001 | |||||
20 | ★★★ Beat on the Brat | 25m | Kaputar | 2001 | |||||
20 | ★★ Clamp-down | 30m | Kaputar | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
20 | ★★★ Iconoclast | 80m | Kaputar | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
20 | ★★ Sky Pilot | 75m | Kaputar | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
20 | ★★★ Iconoclast | 80m | Kaputar | ★★★ Classic | Wed 25th Sep 2002 | ||||
20 | ★★ Tigger (is Unbounced) | 93m | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Thu 1st Sep 2005 | ||||
20 | ★★ Sky Pilot | 75m | Kaputar | 2001 | |||||
20 | ★ The Texas Chain-saw Massacre | 50m | Kaputar | ★ Good | Wed 25th Sep 2002 | ||||
20 | ★★★ Iconoclast | 80m | Kaputar | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 30th Sep 2007 | ||||
Every pitch is good to the climax on the last
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20 | ★★ Wasted Years | 36m | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Wed 25th Sep 2002 | ||||
20 | ★★ Comic Crack | 42m | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Wed 25th Sep 2002 | ||||
20 | ★ Mondo Cane | 28m | Kaputar | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
20 | ★★★ Iconoclast | 80m | Kaputar | ★★★ Classic | Sat 17th Apr 2010 | ||||
the second pitch is stellar
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20 | ★★ Cunning Stunts | 25m | Kaputar | ★ Good | Sun 2nd Oct 2011 | ||||
3 bolt start good, then gear fiddly, nice moves.
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20 | ★★ Revisited | 30m, 5 | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Thu 10th May 2012 | ||||
The bolts are nice, finished on BOTW anchors with a #3 cam and 0.75 cam for traverse
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20 | ★★ Clamp-down | 30m | Kaputar | ★ Good | Mon 10th May 2010 | ||||
Scared most of the way.
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20 | ★★ Comic Crack | 42m | Kaputar | Average | Fri 4th May 2012 | ||||
Pitch one only, to get into Steel Dance. Crappy rock low and dicey pro.
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20 | ★★ Borrowed Time | 90m | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Tue 23rd Oct 2012 | ||||
Led P1 and P3. Dave P2. First pitch really good. Others OK, worth doing for sure.
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20 | ★★ Tigger (is Unbounced) - with Richard | 93m | Kaputar | ★★★ Classic | Wed 4th Dec 2013 | ||||
A fantastic route with solid jams where you need them. The roof on the 1st pitch requires a tricky/committing mantle but a couple of cams below is good for morale. There's a runner fixed to a shrub at the first belay and some good pro to back it up. Three quarters up the 2nd is a chossy corner but you can navigate this without too much trouble. Top of the 3rd you can break left or follow the interesting obvious line which ends abruptly in an undercling, offering one last challenge to the climb
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20 | ★★ Malice Through the Looking Glass | 30m | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Fri 18th Apr 2014 | ||||
Stellar technical stemming on the bottom half with thin, spaced and tricky to place gear (but not quite bad enough to be properly dangerous). Goes easier than it looks, and the hardest moves are on reasonable gear. Would be a borderline classic if you rap off at the top of the pillar (using The Orgasmotron 's anchors) rather than doing the loose off-width top half. If doing the top, bring BIG cams... I didn't, and it was a scary 12m runout.
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20 | ★★ Malice Through the Looking Glass | 30m | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Sat 21st Apr 2012 | ||||
All these ticks from 2012 seem to have not been logged
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20 | ★ The Fifteen Per Cent Direct Start | 10m | Kaputar | ★ Good | Sat 21st Apr 2012 | ||||
Ok for offwidth
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20 | ★ Bonzerland | 25m | Kaputar | ★ Good | Mon 13th Jun 2016 | ||||
Stout warm up. Take small cams. Good direct start to primal scream
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20 | ★★ Lunge not | 25m, 5 | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Sun 16th Apr 2017 | ||||
Another great not over bolted Barley classic. Gear to #3. Hard start.
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20 | Black Antics | 25m | Kaputar | Average | Thu 1st Jun 2017 | ||||
Pretty dull.
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20 |
★★ Borrowed Time
- with
Taib
1
lead by
Taib
2
lead by
Taib
3
lead by
Adrian
| 90m | Kaputar | ★★★ Classic | Fri 1st Sep 2017 | ||||
The stemming on the first pitch was just awesome. All round brilliant climbing.
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20 | ★★★ Beat on the Brat | 25m | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Fri 8th Dec 2017 | ||||
A classic corner splitter from tips to offwidth
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20 | ★ Wondrous Beauty | 33m, 5 | Kaputar | ★ Good | Sun 1st Apr 2018 | ||||
Pretty nice climbing up finger crack into dihedral. Someone had clearly launched up this hoping it was a sports route and bailed at the second bolt
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20 | ★★ The Blundstone Arete | 25m | Kaputar | ★ Good | Sun 15th Jul 2018 | ||||
Do yourself and belayer a favour and aid the choss at the start to enjoy this route as the climbing is good above. Quite spicy bolting, interesting fin feature
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20 | ★★ Revisited - with Ben Hanley | 30m, 5 | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Wed 19th Aug 2020 | ||||
Pick of the day for me, can't go past a good arete! Lovely moves on good edges
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20 | ★★★ Beat on the Brat - with Grace Mackie | 25m | Kaputar | ★★★ Classic | Wed 26th Aug 2020 | ||||
fun route up the obvious corner crack. thrutched my way up the bottom laybacking and smearing my feet on the dirty right wall. became much nicer once i could fit my hands into the crack at about half height. from there lots of face holds became available at it was fairly straight forward to the top.
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20 | ★★ Telapia | 10m, 3 | Kaputar | Sun 6th Dec 2020 | |||||
20 | ★★ Revisited - with Stephen Varney | 30m, 5 | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Wed 13th Jan 2021 | ||||
Alzheimer's Onsight! I had no idea I'd ever been on this route before (seconding Neil years ago).
Pleasant low-angle arete-climbing with spaced bolts, and no pronounced crux. The lack of an anchor to get back down (or even easily rap off) is annoying. |
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20 | ★★ Telapia - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 10m, 3 | Kaputar | ★ Good | Fri 15th Jan 2021 | ||||
There's quite a lot in this little climb. the lower part is trickier than it looks.
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20 | ★★ Tigger (is Unbounced) - with Stephen Varney | 93m | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Sat 16th Jan 2021 | ||||
Lead both pitches. Some great moves (especially through the roof on P1, and the crack system immediately above) but just has so much crap rock on it that it's hard to just enjoy the climb. The start of P1 necessitates some caution.
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20 | ★★★ Beat on the Brat - with Clive, Krysten | 25m | Kaputar | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 5th Apr 2021 | ||||
Such a mega route, absolutely frothed it
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20 | ★ The Idle Rich - with Krysten, Ben | 25m, 4 | Kaputar | Average | Sun 11th Apr 2021 | ||||
Climbing is alright, however the gear down low is sparse and the bolting is weird to say the least haha
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20 | ★★ Telapia - with Tayla Haynes, Krysten | 10m, 3 | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Sat 29th May 2021 | ||||
Settin up tha top ropes
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20 | ★★ Telapia | 10m, 3 | Kaputar | Thu 8th Jul 2021 | |||||
Should’ve stick clipped the first bolt. Found it pretty hard
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20 | ★★★ Beat on the Brat | 25m | Kaputar | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 8th Jul 2021 | ||||
Awesome line. My crack climbing skills have a lot of room for improvement. Keen for more
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20 | ★ The Idle Rich - with Keyser | 25m, 4 | Kaputar | Fri 28th Apr 2023 | |||||
Worthy of a star for the intense sequence up high. The carrot sticks out about an inch... Placed two bomber medium nuts from the jug to protect the last section. Barely made it!
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