Routes as trad in New South Wales and ACT

The next offwidth corner right of "The Wide Open Lobe" with an offwidth crux at mid height and a sting in the tail near the top (#5 and #6 size)

The very wide offwidth, 20m right of "Go Figure". Originally led with #9 and #12 Valley Giant cams and a #4 Big Bro (long continuous corner crack wider than a #6)

Thin crack on far left end of wall, just around the corner from the bolted routes.
 Hard and committing off the ground. Jug left of crack and moving into crack. Up on mixed quality rock.
 Mostly finger tip and hand sized cams all the way to the top. One large cam useful but not necessary.

Initially led ground up, without pre-inspection. Start at the scoops about 10m right of Acoustic Corner at a small pile of discarded holds - don't be put off by these. Surprisingly well protected using natural placements throughout, take 2 sets of wires and a double rack of small to medium cams. Originally led in 4 pitches, though the below might be a better method.

1. Delicately through face moves past bolt to sling arch. From here the rock quality is very good. Follow the plumb line through shockingly good gear to 2BB on the ledge at 35m.

2. Continue on the plumb line through adequate (though fiddlier) gear to belay at small bulge just below the 1/2 way ledge.

3. Easily up to 1/2 way ledge to belay from large gum.

Descent: walk left to 2 RBB rap station, 32m rap to next station, then 35m to ground at the bottom of Road to Hell.

Start at the seam right of Accoustic Corner. Up this for 2m then right onto face following bolts and gear to gain amazing tapered splitter crack. Up this to 2BB. Rap to ground (better option) or continue up Acoustic Corner.

Outstanding climbing, probably one of the "Must Do's" at the crag, despite it's shorter length.

Stemming corner problem with small gear down low. 2 sets of nuts are worth considering, as is a #4 for up high. Follow the thin crack until it widens to off width, then look for gear and holds on the face. 2BB at the top of this pitch. A rope stretching 30m abseil to the deck.

An attempt was made on the corner above, but abandoned after 15m due to loose rock, reduced rock quality, and the proximity of more desirable climbing.

Starts up the V chimney 3m right of VC. After 5m, step left to follow a thin crack around a nose, then back right to follow a hand crack to top. Tree belay.

Offwidth left of VC, trending left to tree to belay. Cams or tubes to BD #5 essential though it will take larger gear.

The buttress just left off Strugglers Lament. A pleasant jug haul, choosing your own adventure! FA was done solo: recommend to bring gear, slings over horns, medium cams & wires. 2 pitches

Nice initial wall.

Start: Marked SCE

1. Up slightly left to gain the main wall then straight up it past 3 BR’s to bushy ledge below sloping bulge. Piton (in place) used to pull over bulge to another in situ peg runner. Up wall above to convenient ledge or tree. - K. Bell

2m right of Sunspot at dead tree. Long ironstone encrusted face on mix of bashin carrots and FHs. Looks good.

Good looking crack followed by a chimney. ("Thin crack right of A" in previous guide)

Start: At crack through a red wall marked by a chipped square.

1. (15m) Climb crack to good ledge and belay at base of corner/chimney.

2. (35m) Climb strenuous overhanging crack into chimney then up chimney behind to the top. - K. Bell

FA unknown but climbed by Keith Bell and Greg Mortimer in 1972.

Glue in carrots and FHs up the lower section of the arete of High Riser. Traverses in from the right to start. At least five bolts visible from the ground. May be entirely independent of High Riser?

Two glue in BRs on arete 5m left of Hi Tension. Not sure if it has an indepedant finish? Details unknown.

At least five BRs up the grey slab and arete left of corner up high. FA unknown

Easy lower crack, then straight up the fine steep corner crack to trad belay.

Sick of sandy slabs and ringbolts? Be a trad lad and try the finger crack between Yoda and Queen or Country. Jam through the bulge to join the arete, finishing as for Yoda at DBB.

8m left of Self isolation. A short scramble up to a 6m crack. Crack is well protected. The rock surrounding the crack is quite weak and will crumble. Climb with caution and jam as much as you can. Caution: Top has been cleared of loose rocks but there is still some weak rock on top that might dislodge. Top out to the left of the crack.

Named after my first climbing partner and friend Justin, who took his own life in 2018. Hopefully a good reminder to check in on those we care about.

A nice corner crack, the crux is pulling on. Great for top roping.

A hard roof crack start then vertical crack to ledge with two carabiners as anchor and rap off

Difficult moves to get started before easier terrain. Gear from silver to red cams with a few bigger pieces for the belay.

One of the more varied bits of climbing around. Start up "beat up and thrown out" then follow the steel out right, pumpy and powerful to the top

bring one plate for the glue in carrot or improvise

No Time for Dreaming pitch 4 variation. From belay ledge, climb right following bolts through under cling, up onto slab, into finger crack (small cams), then continue up slab to anchors as for NTFD. Can stay wet when the rest of the route is dry.

Walk up ridge from behind old toilets towards Naman. When you hit rock go right 50 m to meet talus. Follow the boulders upwards to enter a steep watercourse with good bedrock to the summit plateau. Dry spells only.

The chimney with the crack up the left wall just right of French Connection - FA was done solo

Mantel above the first bolt then up the crack to lower offs.

A mostly trad route up a series of corners (some cracked, some fused). Bring your A Grade stemming ability for the crux pitch. Rack - wires, singles of #0.3-0.5 camalots & doubles of #0.75-#4. Rock quality on this route is big grain and sometimes dirty - take care. All belays are bolted. Approach - rap anchors are located halfway along the crawl section with the fixed rope. Either fix a 70m rope, and rap down to top of pitch 1 and then double rope 30m to ground - or fix a 100m rap line. The route starts left (looking out) of where the rap ropes touches down.

1. 30m (19) Short handcrack to grasstree, then step left into fused corner (bolt). Up corner (fiddly gear) to ledge. Finish up spooky but spectacular layback crack to novelty belay on "boot flake" ledge.

2. 25m (23 to 25) Left off ledge (medium cams in breaks) to bolted face & techy fused corner. Save a #1 & 2 Camalot for the top. Full hanging belay on bolts. Leave the rest of the rack for the second to lug up. The grade of the crux on this pitch is proving quite divisive (hence the route name).

3. 25m (21) 3 bolts up face to the right of corner (bird poo marks the way!) then swing right into blind trad protected corner that leads to tiny ledge belay.

4. 30m (21) Stem up a few moves to cam break - then traverse right onto orange face and up to small roof crack. Over this (burly!) then up long dirty wide crack to top. Don't place all your big gear down low - you will want it high up!

Some masochist should climb this 'quite nice' looking off-width crack.

Up the wide crack, then right around small roof to ledge. Trad anchor then scramble off the top or walk carefully left to Lichen/Mossy Climb anchors. The middle is a bit runout without big cams (5+). If you do have big cams you could also try taking the crack through the roof, looks fun.

The widening crack.

Have a rope tied to a tree to abseil off.

From the our terminal world belay climb diagonally up and right for 3m then straight up following the gear and features. It is expected that this has been climbed previously but it's not in the guide nor was it on the crag..

The wide crack just right of battle cruiser. A #5 or #6 wouldn't be missed for the top half

Can be accessed by abseil from the top of the wall. Belay on 2 rings. Vertical wall with amazingly solid small hold and lots of big holds. Straight up wall, fixed hangers plus horizontal break at 3/4 height for bomber 0.75 and 1 cam. Walk up loose slope 10m to 2 rings for belay.

1. 15m (17) up the face of the texas flake, place a red cam in perfect slot over to the far left then down climb the back side of the texas flake to start of the second pitch

2. 20m (19) up offwidth corner and amazing 3D climbing

3. 20m (23) the golden pitch, near perfect corner crack system, has everything from fingers to fists, steepness, sustained, pumper. will keep you being humble

1. 15m (10) scramble up top texas flake

2. either link up as one mege pitch keeping rope drag in mind through the roof, or climb up crack from the top of texas flake till roof crack then traverse right to belay (18)

3. 15m (23) it doesn't get more appealing as equally terrifying! set your gear and then start grovelling your way up through the roof until finally the crux!

get the crew to have the cameras on standby, this one gets the sunset picture awards

this line is the one to give you the experience far beyond your expectations, it packs way more than it gives away which makes it so f&#%ing fun.

1. 20m (22) start off from small finger crack up for 6m then start working your way into the corner as the opening gettings bigger to the top you just chimney your way to the roof. miinmal gear once half way up, but safe grounds once established in the chimney.

2. fists to offwidth roofcrack.... 15m (22) gear in order on this pitch is BD #4, #3 from the belay and then 2 BD #5's for along the roof. breath taking pitch, kodak moments from the belay ledge for the seconder for sure.

this line is the one to give you the experience far beyond your expectations, it packs way more than it gives away which makes it so f&#%ing fun.

1. 20m (22) start off from small finger crack up for 6m then start working your way into the corner as the opening gettings bigger to the top you just chimney your way to the roof. miinmal gear once half way up, but safe grounds once established in the chimney.

2. fists to offwidth roofcrack.... 15m (22) gear in order on this pitch is BD #4, #3 from the belay and then 2 BD #5's for along the roof. breath taking pitch, kodak moments from the belay ledge for the seconder for sure.

1. 30m (17) mind blowing corner offwidth crack, you can get in it, you can climb outside of it, just dont knock off the loose boulders up top!

2. 15m (17) facing out to the valley from belay ledge veer off to the left fist size crack up to the very top

gear is good with a standard double rack upto BD #5

1. 15m (17) follow the weakness up the face of the texas flake, body belay from the other side of the flake.

2. 15m (24) standing tall off the texas flake place fiddly gear then charge off into sustained fingers and technical climbing up the orange wall next to camp.

3. 8m roped up scramble to next obvious belay at final pitch of golden ratio

4. 20m (23) up the last pitch of golden ratio

worthy single pitch crack in its self, possible to bail off the belay ledge all naturally with detached block from the main cliff. will link up to probably something really hard all the way up but potentially will need a bolt.

yes this is the stellar crack running up the face of the north west grey wall looking from camp!!!! would be a 3 star if the start wasnt so god dam spicy! 'R" rated for first three bits of gear which would almost result in a ground fall anyway.

after the nandos spice you make access into a beautiful finger and hand crack with moves that really make you question the grade.. or are you actually just rock climbing??? pitch 2 is just a 5m climb upto next belay ledge. pitch 3 stepping out from the belay ledge you instantly gain 50m of direct exposure, absolute gem, enjoy the swim to the very top... p.s dont forget to stop and look around and see were you are!!!

first pitch is rather a adventurous outing, follow obvious weakness upto ledge then veer off left to make access up high then step back right into overhanging crack, follow up the hands layback till just before the next ledge at hanging belay. pitch two is more orgasms, up classy finger diagonal crack, this one will be sure to keep your swear jar full of dollars and honest till the very last move. will be more desirable once some love goes into the upper cracks, hint hint

East side of the boulder, weathered features to horizontal crack. Gear belay in crack at the top. Down climb off the back or rap using climbing partner on the ground as an anchor.

Short diagonal leading to a vertical crack. A good highball problem for those who want the added excitement. A direct start into the vertical crack awaits a first ascent.

Up LH ramp or take direct start. Pass rock hollow and up to chicken head. Mantel platform above. Take a few slings and get creative. DUB Lower off.

Up face below rooflet. Follow crack around and up. Tree belay. Cruxy.

From the fire trail junction below matricide, proceed south around the right hand corner for around 100m to where you see a closed fire trail. Walk up this for 40m then 10m to your left is the back of the thin ‘n’ crispy boulder. Great wires and cams, with cams for the belay and a careful scramble off the back.

Up near the waterfall proper. Climb the boulder on climber's left of the stream, crash through trees, then up the little headwall to top out right on the main rock platform.

Start at ground level in the crack to the right of bulgy slab. Crank through the roof on solid jugs and then the chossy chimney to the top. There are carrots on top ~3m to the left. Big cams advised.

Would like to add a bolt near the top left of crack and anchors on top.

The good-quality orange face and verdant corner above the pre-traverse belay of Big Fat Fin Slappers. Requires camalots from #0.3 to 1, (double #0.75 is helpful) and a couple of medium nuts.

Scramble up to the base of the large crack feature in the corner. Starts to the left, opens wide and heads directly up to a more blank section towards the top of the climb. Lower offs on the right.

Inset crack just right of arete.

Start as for Ceiling Your Fate though go right at the roof and through the anchor of Orca. All trad, avoid the temptation to clip bolts of Orca. In the roof theres a block with jugs on top, i chose to avoid this because of unknown rock quality, climbing the seam below this. Make your own assessment

The slab and minor offwidth crack at top.

The offwidth in the atrium area

1. 20m (16)up the nice lichen filled crack passing some shrubs that are not big enough to trust and just get in the way to the obvious large tree for a hanging belay.

2. 35m (16) up then traverse left on horizontal crack then some balancy moves trending right upto a muddy cave for belay

3. 5m (10) grab those burnt trees and mantel

1. (1) get your selfie sticks ready for this iconic summit. clamber up the easy gully's and mantle the large chockstones behind it.

2. (10) up easy slab to good gear in break,traverse delicately right with gear at feet, hugging the tip. insert some small cams in the pocket, playing around abit to get them in there. mount the final big block and belay by wraping the girth. simul rap off before your bum gets too sore from sitting on the hard rock for too long

1. 18m (24) the money pitch, right leaning varied size crack, over funky bulges with no good rest on arapiles like rock.

2. 25m (21) continue up and right on stellar crack system. balancy start on bomber gear leads to expose,vertical and interesting climbing all the way to the anchor. big cave with ample gear.

3. 12m (21) punchy and bouldery climbing out of the cave then some final tricky moves guard the top. belay from huge egg shaped boulders

In the atrium behind the main climbs. Consider pre-placing your first piece of pro.

P1 20 m 23 As for Aslan pitch 1, belay on ledge. P2 25 m 24. Start Aslan pitch 2 but exit stemming box on left and take crack to left of Aslan corner.

Start up Chimney to ledge, then up beautiful corner crack to roof and traverse right under roof to anchors.

Climb Chimney as for Rat attack then traverse right on underclings to gain crack and flake. Up past a couple of bolts to anchors on the right of the tree.

Climb Rat Attack and step left under roof

Mixed route of zigzagging cracks with anchors

Harder, scarier and simply much better than "Two Boys One Skyhook". Enjoy challenging moves, good gear, fearful exposure and glorious ocean views on this excellent route. This was the original vision for this wall first conceived back in 2016. Back then it seemed too hard, but with time all things are possible.

Recommended rack (in addition to anchor, belay and rescue gear): ten quickdraws, five bolt hangers and a set of camalots/friends from 0.3 to 4, with doubles of 0.5, 1 and 2. No nuts needed.

1. 20m (18) As for "Two Boys One Skyhook" but continue past the belay to another pair of rings on the orange face above and to the right.

2. 20m (21) Clip the carrot and then execute a tricky move (crux) to get up onto the face. Do your second a favour and put in a cam (and leave it in) so they don't have to do the crux without swing-prevention protection. Clip a carrot and step delicately left, then climb upwards (the #4 is useful here). Mantle into the choss break then step left, clip a carrot, then, from the arete, reach up and clip another. Step right onto the orange face again and then continue up to the small belay ledge via a tricky hand traverse.

3. 15m (19) Head upwards through some greenery and into the corner crack. Go up the crack and step right at the top to follow the crack around the edge of the "Sword of Damocles" block, and, with great relief, gain the double bolt belay.

4. 10m (17) Step left, then climb up some suspect rock onto a ledge under an overhang. Don't belay from the first set of double rings, but instead step left a few metres to belay at another set of double rings.

5. 15m (17) A tricky move to leave the belay ledge, then clip a ring bolt and climb up to the crack. Put a last piece in nice and high, then pull yourself over the edge then scramble to the top. Belay off carrots.

This line goes all free (no fixed rope shenanigans) and might be the best one on the wall. It is a good alternative finish to Storms at Sea if you find you've bitten off more than you can chew.

Recommended rack (in addition to anchor, belay and rescue gear): ten quickdraws, five bolt hangers and a set of camalots/friends from 0.5 to 4, with doubles of 1 and 2. No nuts needed unless you forget to bring hangers.

1. 25m (18) As for Storms at Sea and Two Boys One Skyhook

2. 25m (21) As for Storms at Sea

3. 15m (18) Head upwards into the corner as for Storms at Sea, but about half way up the crack, step left to reach a carrot. Continue up and left, clip another carrot and then reach a double carrot belay

4. 20m (16) A tricky move to leave the belay, then continue left into the choss cave. The carrot before you step past the green bush into the cave is the last piece of protection, so don't slip or fall after that. Walk carefully to the other end of the cave to reach a double ring bolt belay.

5. 15m (20) As for the last pitch of "Two Boys One Skyhook"

"It's such a cool line, but if you can see it, it's too wide." Mikl. A three pitch trad route up a major corner feature. Bring a rack with plenty of wide gear (doubles of Camalots from #0.3 to #5) plus single set of wires, a couple of micro cams and lots of long runners. Like everything around here the route is accessed by rapping in. Follow narrow sketchy ledge around from top of Lulu for 50m to slot (bolt & fixed rope) - crawl along this for 10m then pop out onto larger ledge with tree and double FHs. Walk 5m further along to double RBs. Rap 35m to small ledge and 2nd set of RBs. Rap 50m to ground (swing across to touch down below the start of the route).

1. 15m (16) Grey loose corner 5m left of the base of the major orange corner. Belay on small ledge using loop of rope over large detached pillar (it's bomber).

2. 45m (18) The mega line! Problem is you have to grovel with fear up the first few metres of alarming choss. Belay at bolts on small ledge on left (the halfway rap anchors). This pitch eats large cams and requires copious long runners. Don't skimp.

3. 35m (19) Back into the jaws of death for several metres then traverse left to continuation of line punching through the steepness above. Be alert but not alarmed past the big chockstone (it wouldn't budge when we tried to manhandle it). Finish with airy thin crack (save the small cams).

Predominantly bolted route (no brackets required) but long pitches require a bit of gear too. Rap from big gumtree growing 15 meters before the dead casuarina on main ledge (Purkinje Arette belay). Rap directly down slope 15m to top anchor. Then 2 35 mtr rappels (f.a used 80mtr rope, unsure if 70 makes it). Of course you can walk to base via either of the established rap points at either end of crag, but this works well.

Gear 12 short draws, four alpine draws. Single rack up to #4, no wires, no micros. Double cams in #1, #2, #3

1. 35mtr 18 Up crack (f.a had gloves), past home made hanger/dynabolt and continue up corner, veering right when appropriate.

2. 35mtr 20 Pull on first bolt if you like (f.a didnt but much nicer!) then up. A single rack will suffice though maybe 2x #2 would be good.

Exit via u bolt on right toward casuarina so your not pulling rope up slope above. Not the worst route. A little wolganesque adventure.

As good as they get on the escapement, layback & jam your way up the obvious corner crack, lower off on the anchors of "Ration The Passion" or continue up. bring doubles in medium cams if you really wanna lace her up.

Only just qualifies as a route, or a very sketchy boulder. Up the nice jam crack

Traversing line starting off the ledge. Can lower of TTOTUA Anchors

Nice fun climbing up to the cone then an thin crux on small gear! Trad Belay

The Obvious Arete seen from the lookout. A single rack should be fine. Be cautious of loose rock.

Off-width 150m NE of summit boulder

Starts in the overhang with several rising cracks on the left. A bouldery move to gain the main face, then easier ground but spaced protection to the top.

The offwidth crack

The flake crack in the eastern gully below bakers dozen

As per 'The Crucifixion' for three pitches, then taking similarly sustained and engaging line of features between Lieben and Crucifixion past distinguishable 'gully cum chimney' in centre of West face onward to left most large orange cave and chimney. Bring double rack including rps and micro cams up to cam #3 and also a #4 cam useful. 60m double ropes essential with good rope management.

1. As for The Crucifixion

2. As for The Crucifixion

3. As for The Crucifixion

4. 24m. From hanging belay, clip manky BR then continue up on good dark rock and poor pro for 8m until climbing leads left, then head across left airily to comfortable base of 'gully cum chimney'. Crucifixions smaller belay ledge is visible above and right from here. Opt for larger (#1 and #3 cam) belay on left side of ledge as leader might want all the small gear for next 50m pitch.

5. 50m. Take rising line on left until gingerly surmounting highest feature onto vertical face. Good climbing leads to selection of very small gear then onward to small orange pod. Place and extend crucial #3 cam then out left a few meters through pleasant overhang onto lichenous solid features (this is the highest rightmost tip of the green rock patches to the right and above big grassy ledge of Lieben), then another 20m bridging straight up through grey crack/gully (very useful #4 cam) to belay directly under large overhanging orange cavern. RP very high on left and very good gear in brown rock on right. Chordelette useful unless you have double 70m ropes. Despite spacious area, gear dictates a semi hanging belay.

6. 40m. Up on poor rock with average pro left of cave. Some solid gear eventually in difficult to see vertical crack at approximately 10m on left (small tuft of grass), then up as you wish to jug on left of steepness. Hard move above gear surmounting bulge(crux?)on excellent rock. Continue all the way up to the higher of two very spacious ledges at 40m. The upper face and right trending corner of Lieben is now visible on your left.

7. 40-50m. Ever so slightly down and left around bulge then up joining final ramble of Lieben, Leavin, Leider on right side of obvious vegetated large gully.

Straight up the orange and black striped wall right of A. Avoid bridging into that route for full value. Plug hand sized cams into the diagonal then up overhung wall As for Plagiarism variant To finish at DBB

Escape for Lee's Road (better than prussiking, maybe). Starts 50 m climbers-right of the rap in. Thorough bushbash to approach. Corner crack, most of the loose stuff has been removed. Might need a brush. Standard rack. Belay at the obvious tree; best to rope up for the walk off/second pitch.

1m right of cave, passing 3 RBs to crack at left of roof. Cams to #1.

Direct route following blunt arete in the middle of wall through roof direct to shared DBB as for Taipan/ Easy Meat. . #1 and #0.4 cams between 3rd and 4th bolt and a 0.75 in pocket after last bolt. Belay just down from terrace, #3 for belayer protection.

Listed in Harry Luxford's guide as P? FA please rename and claim.

Start: Marked P, 0.5m right of Hi Tension.

Short corner followed by longer corner.

Crack line splitting the centre of this overhung orange wall. Probably the only line that can go on this wall starting from the ground. Rack - doubles of cams from tips finger size (sub 0.3) to #2 Camalot and single cams of 3, 4 and vital #5. A single set of wires and several long trad runners are also useful. Lastly a narrow bit of untied cord for an important thread near top of pitch 3. Best to bring two ropes - one 60m to fix from tree at top for easy descent - and one rope to lead on. All belays are bolted and on comfy ledges. Leave the #5 Cam on the bolt belay at end of pitch 2 unless you like weight training.

1. 18m (21) Striking left facing finger crack corner. Easier than it looks unless you have jumbo sized fingers. Finish through very steep hanging prow to big ledge (double bolt belay)

2. 13m (20) Undercut major flake feature. Fill the base with big cams and venture upwards! Double bolt belay on small ledge.

3. 25m (22) Traverse right from belay (bolt) for a couple of metres, up, then back left to 2nd bolt. Monkey through steepness above on giant holds (bolt) then vital #0.4 cam in small slot and right to short flake with air to spare. One more bolt, then lob the giant cam in horizontal before traversing left into slabby corner finish. Keep an eye out for thread behind small rock pillar when you can't find any gear and get scared. Bolt right at top to protect icky topout to tree belay.

Quality sustained climbing at the grade. A good mix of adventure and fun sport climbing. Would be 3 stars if the first pitch was a little less sandy, the second, however, is one to remember! Take a single rack of cams (#0.5 - #3 BD. A #4 is nice but not necessary), roughly 12 draws and a couple slings for the belays (the bolts are a little small).

Pitch 1 - 20m - 21 (Fully bolted): Start off the small boulder up sandy wall and over small rootlet, 15m more leads to a belay in sandy cave (belay bolts on the outside face).

Pitch 2 - 30m - 21 (Mixed Trad): Step right from the belay, traversing the sandy underclings for 4m to the base of excellent hand crack. Blast up this picking up the bolts again once it widens beyond a #4 size and continuing up the continually good climbing all the way to the top.

The jam crack can be easily aided. Overall this route is very well protected. Rap back down to the ground to climb out something else at penthouse (Old Man of Oi is recommended for the full adventure experience)

Want to look like Ray in that iconic shot? Or Warwick on "Wokker's Roof", which if you look across the valley you can probably see? Or Doug on Fight Cub, just 7 grades easier and 50m from your car? Look no further than up, and back. Then get every 4 and 5 cam you own or can borrow, tie in, and take the trip of a lifetime across 20 plus feet of the finest horizontal offwidth sandstone roof crack you can imagine. (FFA-BD# 4.5 , 5, 5, 5, 5, 4 untie and walk off) second ascent one less #5.

Reality is separate, dreams are real. FFA E. Wells, J. Szeleky 2021.

4 rusty carrots up the wall left of War Crimes. First bolt is very high and the top looks dirty. This route was not recorded in previous print guidebooks but looks like its from the 80s.

One of the most popular climbs on the cliff, it has already had at least four repeats. Pretty easy for its grade but remember that it was graded for technical difficulty which means you have to think about the moves before you do them so falling off automatically lowers the grade to around 19. So stoogehead, if you didn't flash it then you haven't climbed a 22 but only a pissfart 19.

(1) The crack in the alcove with the words 'A CLASSIC BY CHUNDER', written on it. Climb the crack in the wall (easy) then traverse right under the roof and up the thin crack to the ledge. Climb up the big flake on your right and step left into the clean looking groove with the tree in it.

Not a bad little 1 1/4" chimney, a very hard to jam size that required an extensive tape job on the arse to protect iti from abrasion. This crack is made for 1 1/2" friends and is a bad fit for twos so gather up as many as you can and suck on it.

(1) The well defined crack to the right of AS. The chossy stuff at the top is avoided by easy climbing in the left groove.

'You who electric spew that's the colour of my room.' - David Blowy. One of the easier climbs in the quarry but this has its disadvantages in that it's probably the worst looking climb as it doesn't follow any striking lines as do all the others. the rock is generally sound after Don the Cockroach ripped off two mega sized blocks on the second ascent, as well as nearly splitting himself on a sharp flake lower down on the climb; sucked in Don.

(1) The wall and the odd looking cracks to the right of ST. Up the initial easy rock to the top of the flake, then climb the crack to the ledge and then the next crack to the next ledge (crux), hence up the easier stuff to the top.

Diagonal crack to top. A couple of face moves to avoid shrubbery.

Open-book corner 2m right of Workmates with flake and single FH near the top. Rap from bolt anchors on ledge equal to end of Workmates pitch 1.

The name aptly describes the style of climbing at the quarry. Whilst cleaning this route Ferret was heard to mutter 'I don't like frigging climbs, I just do it out of habit.' This baby rears it's ugly bum with the major problem of not having any footholds where it counts, i.e. on the rock. Apart from that little drawback it's quite a good climb up a very thin finger crack, creeps with fat digits: better pound them down with a hammer or blow them off with explosives if they want to get up this unit.

(1) The next crack in the wall to the right of SS.