Routes in South Coast for selected grade

Start as TTL. Crank through roof and up slopes to pocket. A jugular popping mantle leads to a good rest. Run it out to top.

Start as for MND. Head straight up from lumpy jug to hidden heuco. Move up and right along thin break then up small pockets to slopey mantle top out. Serious.

Start as for Salty The Seal but go straight up to steepness (UB). Swing left and up to big undercling heuco and upwards. Big scoops and bizarre crux. Sustained. Bring some small/ medium cams and some slings for the threads above the last bolt. 4 u-bolts.

Conditions were less than ideal on the first ascent. Starts 2m right of RS. Up delicate face to under left side of big roof, monkey out this on jugs then tough lip pull to mantle onto ledge. Stem up open corner to juggy conclusion. 4 u-bolts + medium trad.

Sustained pod crack climbing with a bit of choss to finish. Starts 2m right of LASTE. Bouldery start to get to first UB. 3 u-bolts. Bring a standard rack to supplement bolts.

Around the back of the Guns, Germs and Steel block is a recessed bay with a very thin corner crack at the back left. Interesting technical moves past 3 badly rusted FHs, then easily up to rusty anchor brackets.

Set an anchor 10m right of the fixed abseil point. Rap in to a small ledge just above the water. Two 0.5 cams at waist height will prevent a swim.

Unbeknownst to most people, God had a seaside holiday before heading off to create Mt Arapiles. This climb is a testament to his creative abilities. The gem of Bittangabee, steep, strenuous, and sensational. 1m R of P3. Up right-leaning diagonal, straight up to finish on splitter crack on capstones.

Starting as for Zymurgy, climb the direct thinner line via slots and crimps to the right of the previous line and staying right of the prominent pale disc. Finish by topping out the boulder problem off the shelf and directly above.

Short, sharp, bouldery arête on the Guns, Germs and Steel block at the mouth of the dark chasm. Has two bolts and a single bolt lower-off that looks a little rusty as of 2021...

Original description: Around left from Bindun in a small dark chasm.

A proper DWS line over nice, deep water.

Start lying down and pull onto jugs. Up to lip. Traverse left along lip to arete, flop your body around the arete. Easy mantle. Can also mantle the lip at the start for an easier boulder, but the secrets of the twig will remain unknown.

Start at the white splattered rock a few metres right of '6 beers before midnight' and traverse left for about 17m. Follow the lowest dyke for the first half, under-cling through the small overlap on the corner (crux), and stay on low holds well below the dyke for the second section, finishing at the incut corner.

Crimps to shallow scoop at 3/4 height and then to rail at top to finish

Start in little overhung cave closest to the water and pull up from sit start on pinches and throw to rail above.

Up the south face of the Candlestick

Start on the nice jug about halfway on the left side of the cave. Traverse left on some crimps to the big sandy sloper. Finish on a pretty good crimp outside the cave.

Deep jug at halfway has broken off. Adds a grade or two.

Start down low with hands on the sloper and move across the crimps to a pretty powerful move to the most obvious jug (careful if you don't get it right it bites!). climb finishes on edge top right.

Traverse along a section of rock next to the cave. There are some fun heel hooks and toe jams to complete the climb.

Sit start on the big pockets, move into the pinch on the right side and up to the edge.

Sit Start on the undercling, Pull up into the crimp and follow the fisure

Sit start, move into the flake, manage the dino

Fairly high! See the two pockets up high in the vague corner? Climb to the top via these. Start on obvious low jugs.

Sit start below the end of White Whale, climb up.

Sit start on the jug under the roof. Traverse onto the slab and climb up.

Sit start with big hold. Move up and around the bulge to glory.

Right of Boys light up. Start down low left hand on left side of sloper with flat top, right hand slightly around the corner on worse sloper. Move out left and up to side pull rail, match, move left to good crimp and finish up on flat top jug. There was chalk on the holds before I got there so sorry if it was already sent.

Sit start with feet under the roof/on the back wall of the little cave. Mantle onto the slab above the cave and top out on the slab. Watch out for sharp rock in some of the holds.

Sit start with hands on either side of the deep undercling just to the left of Octopussy. Move right out wide to the finger pocket then straight up using side pulls on both sides to the top.

Variously described as "Adam's one" Jump or reach up to shallow pocket. Make your way up to the top from there. Traverse left or solo to the top of the cliff once on the ledge.

Jump to start on the slicey juggy ledge about two thirds of the way along the cave lip(the lower, meaner of the two jugs). Move up then left along the crack, finishing matched in the slippery yellow section of the crack where it intersects with the vertical crack. Jump to start can be tricky depending on sand height, start further along right side cave if necessary.

Start by establishing with both hands on slopey rail jug. Note that you must establish before climbing, if you use your momentum from pulling on to do the move, then you didn’t do the boulder.