Routes in Alice Springs

Chimney Boulder problem

Starts and follows the weakness 3m left of Gardeners. Vear slightly right, vear slightly left, continue up through the roof into the corner and up.

Boulder Problem

Heading up the short wall right of Mixed Emotions this is a steep climb that doesn't give you much rest, while there is good gear, finding and placing it will seep your strength away. Start up the right tending crack in the middle of the wall, after the crack continue up the blocky section to finish at the right hand end of the top of the wall. A harder direct finish awaits through the middle of the wall, which was simply too hard for this old fella on the day.

Look for the most prominent corner, just east of this is an easy looking chimney and corner that is climbed.

The prominent crack to the right of Window Wall that initially trends left and then straightens up. A sustained route discovered at the end of a chilly morning's climbing that is well worth an ascent. If leading, trend to R crack at 2/3 high for more solid holds and gear.

The as yet unclimbed direct finish to TFTBF. As for that route until the crack trends right near the top. Instead climb the much harder direct line straight to the top

Fiddly gear at 2/3 height, but great climbing if you don't pump out protecting it. Start immediately left of the small pine. Climb up to, and follow L trending crack. When the crack seems to run out, tricky moves up and L gain a 2nd, slightly steeper crack. Exit R at the top to avoid loose blocks.

This and the next two climbs are located on a small buttress 15m right of the main cliff. Access to DBB (carrots about 5m back from the edge) is via the right hand end of the cliff. This climb is the crack on the left edge of the face. Slopey holds, tough for the grade and sparse on gear

Another classic line that looks dubious, but provides excellent moves and positions, with safe protection. Start as for OWTD, but traverse L below the roof and up L facing corner with increasing difficulty, until forced to make an exposed step R onto the black slab.

Improbable looking line for the grade. Start 4m L of the obvious corner (TU). Climb up to and surmount the roof and continue to ledge, where the climbing eases a little.

For those who want to wuss out of the crux on "*1/4 On-Sight 29?" stay left up the crack.

The pumpy crack on the right end of the face, with a small arete just to its right.

Starts below a scoop just right of flake block, thin moves.Up to and through the scoop, exiting left.

Direct start to MG (meets MG after the traverse under the roof).

Follows large W facing corner in the middle of the crag. A sustained and interesting climb with good rock. At Guano streaked ledge, traverse up and L onto slab to belay at a good horizontal crack.

Fingery start up the right trending flake with adequate feet to the first ledge, then straight up with more fun up a crack with large triangular flake on the right. Continue until out. Plenty of good spots for placing gear and a good boulder above if you'd prefer to top rope.

2nd Pitch to TU, and exit pitch for the other routes that finish here. Climb the thought provoking V-Notch, trending R to finish.

Early crux will have you leaning back. Protect it well as it looks easier than it actually is. Fine once you've got the sequence worked out but until then can make you feel like a moron. Much easier and enjoyable climbing once beyond the crux.

A supurb line with some intimidating moves. Take plenty of small cams. Follows the main cracks 6m L of the corner (TGC). Towards the top trend left to the base of the orange corner. Have a rest and make exposed moves to pull through this. Belay immediately above at fixed slings.

More of a short Boulder Problem

Climb up the bulge between IM and Dreamtime towards and then following the thin crack. Keep moving through the early crux and enjoy a warm down after this as you continue up much easier rock. A bold lead due to sparse/non-existent protection early.

Outstanding climbing, technically sustained, with holds and gear appearing when you need them. Follow the thin crack 2m L of the corner (TGC) until it runs out below the headwall. Traverse R a few metres and continue up crack system that breaks through headwall. Exit L to belay ledge and fixed slings.

Steep, sustained and tough for the grade. The rising rightward line at the far left end of the cliff. Fingery moves to start before gaining first FH, trend rightward to second FH, then straight up

Direct finish to GN. Instead of traversing R, continue direct (placing gear in the corner/crack) before making an airy step onto the headwall and climbing this direct.

Wild line on natural pro, taking the mot prominent crack line immediately left of OFTG. Hard, technical start to gain crack at 4m

Perfect protection and solid rock. Takes the main corner / recess. From the top of the cracks, wander up a further 8m, finishing at ghost gum (or continue up corner above for a further 15m).

The first climb on the L end of the main cliff. Climb prominent crack on the L side of the small arete. Tend R from small ledge halfway up. BB.

L facing crack and cnr in the middle of the crag. Good beginners lead with heaps of pro. 18m

Start 2m R of corner. Climbs central crack leading direct to ghost gum at 20m (or continue up corner another 7m to slings).

Excellent naturally protected route up the steep wall between OFTG and SBM. The route was originally intended to be bolted the week before the first natural ascent - hence the name! Start 2m right of OFTG, bold moves up the lower wall lead to ledge and gear, then follow the ragged crack until it trends right to the finish

L trending crack 1m R of TOMP (just R of arete) to small ledge. Step R, and up to belay as for TOMP

A couple of metres right of TV and very worthwhile with a thoughtful start to gain the first ledge. Pick your line over the small roof and continue for an enjoyable sustained climb.

The Vertical crack 4m R of corner, although a bit loose to start. Finish L to Ghost gum, or it is possible to continue up steeping crack for another 7m to higher ledge.

Another excellent, sustained mixed route taking a direct line up the highest section of the cliff. Start 3m right of TFTBF below a small dish. Balance up and clip FH, before ticky moves lead to good holds up high. Continue past second FH, finishing up a small vertical crack

As for SBM to just below the second FH, then step right and follow the ragged, rightward trending crack

Large scoop 2m R of AC to block, up to high BR, then straight up on delicate crimps (don’t give into temptation and step left into jugs) past another BR to DBB.Now equipped (as of April 2021) with FH 2m off the ground to protect the start

A great face climb perfect for the grade. Starting a few metres left of Butterfly Lost, climb towards the small dish with slight overhang and then continue up the rib through another slight overhang (somewhat of a second crux) and just keep on going through easier climbing above. Protection thin with ground falls possible if falling from the top of the second overhang.

Start at the left hand arete just right of The Mr T Variant. Climb up and right into the crack and on to the top.

Fun climbing with just enough protection. Start 1m right of guano streak below twin caves at the right end of the cliff. Up committing face (small wires can be found) to ledge and cave. Ignore the ancient carrot and continue up and right, around the arete and up slab, passing another carrot to SBB

Look for the 'V' formation. Head towards it and then keep going more or less directly up.

Start just right of Borrowed Time, crossing that route and climbing the left arete.

A Brilliant mix of technical and strenuous climbing. As for SOB to the cave, then straight up the sustained crack system above (beware potential loose rock)

Weakness 1m R of FV. Straight up ramp above to BB

Face 1.5m L of useless white FH, past BR, then up to BR on SM. Step R up steep bulge to DBB

A thinner but nicer climb. As for SM, but take line straight up from useless white FH. To get the extra points, don't stray off the line!

A great trad route for beginners with plenty of options for placing gear and good rests between nicely exposed moves.

Ryan Gaskon Open Project. Terribly thin line snuck between the classics. Start on horizontal break, clip bolt then boulder through tiny crimps and sidepulls, then dyno right to gain ledge. Continue easily up thin diagonal seam past 2nd break to top

Originally protected by 4 ugly D-Shackles; now chopped, the line can be easily protected. Start 5m right of SM on the steep straight crack behind a tree. Up 2m to a ledge then up steeply past technical jamming, unexpected holds can be found when the going gets really tough. Yes it really is a 21 and no more clues than that. SSB, back it up! (Edit July 2014: No SBB, trad anchor or topout.)

R side of main cliff face. Climb starts 1m R of unused white FH. Climb face on the R of 2 FH, clipping them on the way. At chossy finger ledge head L and up past FH, and over bulge to top. DBB

As named, a delightful ending to LWC by taking a few steps left once on the final ledge of LWC and then up through the rightward trending scoop

Start as for CSC but keep following the flake until it straightens out

Start up the L curving sickle flake 3m left of WTFIA Direct. Boulder through nervy crux pockets with average gear and bad feet to gain easier ground, finish as for WTFIA

Can be top roped from DBB. Left trending crack, layback to the awkward mantle onto the ledge, then continue on easier ground to a second left trending crack.

Naturally protected. Up steep gully on far LHS and through overhanging headwall into corner.

Variant start (13) avoid corner, and ascends ramp to the R, to join the line.

Fairly worthless edition, first climbed onsight and ropeless as a warm up. Start 2 metres left of Unsuspecting below a faint, blank looking scoop. Up through intermittent crimps to easier ground just past half height. Trad anchor possible for top roping or bring crash pads as there’s no gear in the climb itself.

Ends at FHB. Good crack climbing. Ramp 5m R of WFA to L leading diagonal crack (next crack R of WFA).

Start just right of D and traverse R into line. Very strenuous boulder problem down low leads into easier climbing to finish at D chains. Four bolts with #1 cam at bush.

Two bolts and some natural protection. Climb on slopers into the pumpy corner, step right and up easily.

Lovely right leaning double diagonal cracks on the L side of the terrace.

Sustained climbing with a powerful crux. Five bolts with some small cams between the 1st and 2nd.