Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Bill James Testimonial Gully | |||||
25 | ★★ G6
The left climb on the orange wall. Bouldery and Fun! Set: Jason Lammers, 2011 FA: 15 Aug 2021 | 12m, 5 | |||
20 | ★ G Spot
Funky radness on awesome rock. Set: Jason Lammers & Wade Stewart FA: Jason Lammers, 24 Apr 2018 | 12m | |||
17 | ★ Easy Like Sunday Morning
Climb slab left of History Never Repeats past first bolt, step across to main wall then up. FFA: KM, 27 Sep 2020 FA: Carly McDevitt, 27 Sep 2020 | 18m, 7 | |||
19 | ★ Slab of Death
Up the techo slab just left of JTP FA: Jason Lammers, 2010 | 16m | |||
17 | ★ Just Think Pork
Up then right into vertical crack, clipping 1000's of ring bolts to lower offs at 2/3 height. If your a keen trad dad continue up the easy crack to the top to new carrot and tree anchor. FA: G Hill, 2000 | 16m, 9 | |||
18 | ★ The Duke
The sculpted wall hidden in alcove up left of orange face. FA: Rod Young, 2010 | 18m | |||
17 | ★ Grouple Guy
Climbs the scoops on the left side of the arete then up arete on great rock. All FHs. The first bolt is crazy high and dangerous to reach - stick-clip it from boulder next to it. FA: G Hill, 2000 | 15m | |||
18 | ★ Corner Guy Link-up
Up Cornerstone for 2 bolts then climb around grey pillar and up Grouple Guy to anchors. | 20m | |||
22 | ★★ Cornerstone
The right side of the left arete. A little bit of choss to get started through bulge then really sweet climbing all the way to the top. FA: Rod Young, 2010 | 18m | |||
22 | ★★ Thriller Link-Up
All killer - no filler. Climb first two bolts of Driller, then monkey left across steep pockets to Cornerstone arete. This is a better and slightly harder way of doing Cornerstone. FA: Heath Black, 2009 | 20m, 7 | |||
24 | ★★ Driller
Steep orange face that's dry in any weather, and overhangs about 3m. Steeply through start to big white pocket, then screw your finger into the dubious mono. Come back in two months after finger has healed and pull the move again with success. Finish through roof. Superb rock quality. FA: Heath Black & Jibe Tribout, 2009 | 16m, 6 | |||
21 | ★ Rotterdamerung
Start on right side of raised rock platform. Up crazy scoop on the suss jugs, with the rock getting better as you go. Then battle through the roof and doodle up slab to anchors. FA: Rod Young | 25m | |||
18 | ★ First Blood
A truly tried and tested favorite guaranteed to appease the taste buds. Starts on the far right side of the upper ledge. A little steep on horizontals. FA: C McGavock, 2008 | 30m | |||
18 | ★★ Gilead
An excellent mid week option! Another long euro-enduro adventure at the grade. Most of these climbs are similar, but this is probably the best one. FA: Rod Young | 30m, 10 | |||
17 | ★★ Occasional Dream
A great addition to the market. fully imported. Sweet on sundays after a recovery brunch. The little corner down low. FA: Rod Young, 2008 | 30m, 9 | |||
19 | ★★ Blackout
Does it get any better than that? Recline the chair, sit back and enjoy the contest! FA: Rod Young, 2008 | 30m, 11 | |||
20 | ★★ Wombat Combat Link-Up
Links start of Fricasse Maison into finish of Blackout. Look out as a 60 meter rope won't get you off this baby in one hit you will have to break the descent and rap again on FM anchors which are 23 meters off the ground. FA: G Hill, 2009 | 35m, 10 | |||
21 | ★ Fricasse Maison
A little tricky lower down but you will get used to the potential fall unless you take it. Start: At Wombat Combat under orange wall and three meters left of corner crack Triantithingy. FA: V Hill, 2009 | 23m, 8 | |||
20 | Crispin Licks
Some holds are a little dirty but don't let that put you off. Generally its a pile of rubbish and i can't think of why i wasted seven bolts on it, only to say i liked the name string it would form with the climbs around it which are also rubbish. Start: Left side of orange cave like structure. Two meters right of crack in corner. FA: Hill | 12m, 7 | |||
21 | ★★ Chicken Lips
Sustained little pumper with some choice little perfect pockets. The route goes up the centre of the orangy cave like structure, between two traddy corners. Scramble up loose stuff onto start ledge. FA: Neil Monteith, 2008 | 18m, 7 | |||
19 | ★ Slippin Chicks
All large items have been disposed of any further holds you rip off are your own fault. Start: Ledge just right of chicken lips. FA: G Hill, 2009 | 12m, 6 | |||
15 | ★ Ricky's Wonder
RW and SoL share a start at the fallen boulder 10m left of MT. The shared first bolt is 4-5m up on a pretty friendly scramble. SoL keeps going straight up, RW goes hard diagonal traverse to the left, about 45 degree angle until you get to the top left corner of the whole wall. If you don't have an 80m rope, break it into two:
Final anchors provide a safe top-out option. FA: Rick Phillips, 2015 | 40m, 2 | |||
24 | ★★ Statue of liberty
Very nice two pitch climb a slab grade 12 at the bottom with a stunning 14 metres of grade 24 at the top FA: rick phillips | 30m | |||
18 | ★★ Mustard
Up Ketchup for 3 bolts and then move out left. Easy exposed awesomeness with lots of bolts. Nice rock and positions. Shares the line with Mythical Tomatoes (accidental retrobolting?). You can lower on a 60m rope to the floor with about 5 metres left (if belaying from on the block). FA: Rick Phillips & John Lattanzio, 2015 | 30m, 11 | |||
21 | ★★ Ketchup
A fine slab angle wall. Sustained climbing at about grade 19 from mid way up. Use the crack at the first blank bit or just grit your teeth and climb thru it for a better experience, not much harder this way. Graded only for the sustained nature. A confident leader will find it 19 all the way up. As for Mythical Tomatoes at blocky corner leading to the left side of the ledge at quarter height. Up corner to ledge. Up wall using cracks as necessary to rings at the top. FA: G. Hill, 2010 | 35m, 12 | |||
Huskinson Homo (Ricky) and the (Graeme) Hill Top hoods gully | |||||
17 | ★ Mostly Malbec
First climb u come to as you walk down the access gully. A little thinner and trickier than the other Rogers. FA: Jason Lammers, 7 Oct 2017 | 15m | |||
16 | ★ Roger Bourne Identity
Up the dark crimpy slab. Really awesome !! Best of the 3 routes on the dark slab. FA: Dirty "roger" Dude, 2009 | 16m, 6 | |||
16 | ★ Roger Ramjet
Route right of RBI. FA: Veronique Hill | 18m | |||
16 | ★ Roger the Meerkat
Climb just left of BW FA: Veronique Hill | 18m | |||
13 | ★★ Strike Path
The longest and easiest route on this first wall. A good one to start on. Start as for the first bolt on Bingo Wings however head straight up to slightly steep finishing jugs on the mini arete. FA: Simon Vaughan, 29 May 2022 | 19m | |||
14 | ★ Bingo Wings
Step off block and follow steepening slab. FA: rick phillips | 15m | |||
20 | ★★ Trad Dads Can't Campus
Start on the lower level 3m right of BW. Heave from pocket onto ledge then take the left line of bolts up the steep wall, onto the slab and on to anchors. FA: Rick Phillips, 2000 FA: Rick Phillips, 2009 | 20m, 8 | |||
20 | ★★ Gym Junkies Cant Jam
Same start as Trad Dads Cant Campus, followed with lay back crux to gain the tops and on to easy ground to anchors. FA: Rick Phillips, 2009 | 20m, 10 | |||
23 | ★ Don't Give Up Maman
Start: Just right of GJCJ, then techo traverse right in tiny pebbles to awesome pumpy head wall. Shared last couple of boles and lower off with GJCJ FA: V.Hill, 2009 FA: V. Hill, 2009 | 20m, 9 | |||
24 | ★★ Upchuck
Jug hauling interupted by the burly break move. Start: Between Trad Dads start and 'Dodecahedron' from the boulder. FA: Graeme Hill | 20m | |||
23 | ★★ Flesh Light Fantasy
Up Dodecahedron for 3 bolts, move left around the shield and up the pumpy wall. Set: Jason Lammers FA: Jason Lammers, 6 Sep 2015 | 26m | |||
22 | ★★★ Dodecahedron
The left trending finish to Dave Fern. A real pumper! FA: rick phillips | 20m, 7 | |||
22 | ★★ Dave Fern
A great jug haul. Originally climbed on trad gear and the carrots now full of rings. Start: At the initials DFA. Shares first three bolts with 'Dodecahedron'. FA: Hill | 25m | |||
22 | ★ Diamond Head
A right diagonal used to block those new routers that may sneak another line in. Large jugs are what every guy dreams of and this route has lots. Start: Same Start as Dave Fern FA: Hill | 25m, 10 | |||
26 | Gratefully Dead
Done in the days of the carrot bolt and mixed gear. When you knew how to place a good runner and dyno into a finger lock. Now of course its full of rings, and if you thought the run out was pants wetting then I placed a couple more bolts just for you. Start: Under the obvious overlap to the right of DH. A ground fall from the crux is likely if the draw unclips itself, which has happened on this route. A locking draw in the 3rd bolt reduces this risk. FA: Hill | 25m, 8 | |||
25 | ★ Heat Blast
Originally done on the old bolts alone, with a few rope stretching falls. Rings added later by Hill who dismally failed at trying to repeat the route. Name courtesy of Ben Ten. Start: Under orange wall that leads up into the cave with two rings for lower off. Shares the first 2 bolts with CC, then steps across left to gain pockets and bouldery moves. 5th bolt is tricky to clip with a great move up to cave. FA: S. Bullen | 15m | |||
24 | ★★ Custard Canon
A great climb with the crux down low, that should get more ascents. Start: Right of orange stripe that leads to cave. FA: G Hill, 2003 | 20m | |||
22 | ★★ Snacky Cakes
Start a few meters right of Custard Cannon. Up the black blunt arete and continue up the slab to anchors. FA: G Hill, 2009 | 20m, 10 | |||
17 | ★ God save the Queen
Scramble up the block and belay here. Start on right side of cave and up. FA: Jason Lammers, 6 Jun 2015 Set: Jason Lammers, 6 Jun 2015 | 15m, 5 | |||
19 | ★ Fascist Regime
The right route on the block FA: Jason Lammers, 6 Jun 2015 Set: Jason Lammers, 6 Jun 2015 | 15m, 6 | |||
11 | ★ 33
Start 3m left of Little Miss Sunshine at the RB FA: Simon Vaughan, 28 Dec 2018 | 18m, 6 | |||
11 | ★ Little Miss Sunshine
Start 5m right of the major corner/chimney feature and the obvious black slab. Climb the slab through a couple of overlaps to the anchors. A safe beginners lead. FFA: Graeme Hill & R. Chunder, 1977 FA: Rick Phillips, 2009 | 14m, 8 | |||
11 | ★ White marble ball
Up overlaps past an obvious white embedded marble ball! FA: Simon Vaughan, 29 Nov 2022 FFA: Simon Vaughan, 29 Nov 2022 | 15m, 7 | |||
9 | ★ Alien Head
Start 1 metre left of first bolt and up, nice grey rock up high FA: Hugh Vaughan, 21 Jan 2019 | 10m | |||
17 | ★ Cool Bananas
Start8 mtrs right of HDC, off the big block which you get to from around the back. Hard moves off the ground for the grade, easing off at top. FA: Rick Phillips, 2009 | 14m, 7 | |||
22 | ★ I've Got Wood
The rock in the first 5 meters is so good I had to stick another route up it. More sustained than it looks. Start as for 'Groovy Tuesday' then traverse left to the next line of bolts to anchors. FA: G Hill, 2009 | 15m, 8 | |||
22 | ★★ Groovy Tuesday
Climbed originally on the carrots and trad gear. Now Full of great rings. Start: Orange wall at bulgy cracked overlap. Look for the old carrot bolts.
FA: RIck Phillips & Graeme Hill | 18m, 2 | |||
18 | ★★ Captain Australia and the Lemon Argonauts
Thru the flakes, up nice headwall. Start: Under obvious flakes FA: Jason Lammers, 2009 | 15m | |||
18 | ★★ Mouche Pique
Just inside the slot three metres left of Shut The Gate at the corner. Up through the conglomerate band and the small overhang above it to the slab and the next small overhang Follow the line of bolts up the slab to the lower off. FFA: V.Hill, 2011 FA: V.Hill, 2011 | 20m, 7 | |||
24 | ★★ Rita's Revenge
Great junk of orange rock to start and an easy slab finish. A direct start to Rita. Possibly a little gay at 24 but at least as hard as STG. Start: Two meters right of 'Mouche Pique' at the orange undercut under diagonal thin crack. FA: G Hill, 2011 | 20m, 7 | |||
22 | ★★ Les Vacances De St Rita
Takes advantage of all the orange rock it can. Others would swear at another contrived piece of shit from Hill but who cares. Boulderers do it all the time. Start: Same start as shut the gate. FA: V Hill, 2000 | 22m, 8 | |||
24 | ★ Shut The Gate
Easy lower moves, stop suddenly to a crimpy layback pump fest FA: Rick Phillips, 2009 | 12m, 5 | |||
19 | ★★ The Horse Has Bolted
You can top out from this climb, belay at rap anchor and walk around ledge (with care). Originally a trad gear lead with a start from the right and a grade of 16. Add the bolts and it gets harder? Starts a few meters left of the obvious corner crack, about 20 right of Groovy Tuesday. Climb past the conglomerate band and flake to the corner, surmount this then climb the slab above to the belay/ lower off. FA: Rick Phillips, 2009 | 25m, 8 | |||
18 | ★ The Horse Has Bolted Direct Start
Useless 2 bolt right hand variant start to 'The Horse Has Bolted' FA: Graeme Hill | 25m, 8 | |||
20 | ★★ Je Veux vous Entendre Siffler!
The direct line up the wall then up the leaning corner. Keep going to the rap chains at the very top. Hard crimpy start on the grey wall two meters right of THHB Direct. First few of bolts are shared with 'Whistling For Dinner' FA: V Hill, 2011 | 22m, 8 | |||
21 | Whistling For Dinner
A nice little wall that deserved a taste of steel. The orange rock in the cave is great and the moves up the right side of the arete just fine. Ignore the two bolts on the left side of the arête they're just a waste of stainless. Start: Same two bolt wall start as JVVES to the ledge. FA: G Hill, 2011 | 22m, 9 | |||
23 | ★ Hill Project zz9zpluralzalpha
The pick of the bunch. Goes up the sanest chunk of orange rock, in the most direct manner. Once around the roof the slab is easy. Start: On the easy orange wall two meters right of the other route and just left of the cave. FA: G Hill, 2011 | 21m, 9 | |||
22 | Time For Turnips
A really great way to use the rock as a resource to its best. It shares the same start and the same lower offs but all the rest of the route is completely different enough to want to climb it. Start: Same start as the previous route just left of the cave. FA: G Hill, 2011 | 22m, 9 | |||
Bag-Dad Wall | |||||
18 | ★ Roger the Emu
The 1st climb you come to. Up past bolts to giant U lower off. Tricky start, take care to second bolt. FA: mark woodard, 2003 | 15m | |||
21 | ★★ Storking Pork
The next climb along. A few reachy moves and will test shortish people. Crosses the crack at about 2/3s height and up on jugs to anchors. FA: G Hill, 2003 | 15m | |||
21 | ★★ Kurds in the Whey
A beautiful piece of work inspired by nature and the Indian Stainless Steel plant used to make my bolts raw materials. This sought of climb keeps the wall average grade somewhere around the solid 20. So quit complaining if a few climbs are underdone the ones to the side are probably over done. Start: Shared start with BB, then moves right. FA: G Hill, 2003 | 18m | |||
22 | ★★ Bunker Bolster
Another line of inspiring stainless steel that sets this wall apart from all the others i have grid bolted. Start: Shared start with 'Kurds in the Whey' at the boulder. Straight up - using the left line of bolts. FA: G Hill, 2003 | 18m | |||
21 | ★★ What Weapons
These two routes make up some of the best climbing on this wall. A little bit techo and sometimes fancy. Start: This climb shares the same start as 'The Butchers Brother' 2m left of 'Bunker Bolster' . Up for a couple of bolts then take the right line. FA: G Hill, 2003 | 18m | |||
21 | ★★ The Butchers Brother
Great climbing. Don't whine too much if the odd bit of rock snaps off your probably doing the only ascent for that year, although things seem to have cleaned up. Start: At the initial BB in the middle of the wall. Straight Up. FA: G Hill, 2002 | 18m | |||
20 | ★★ Climb Of Mass Destruction
A great piece of climbing,well I liked it! Start: This is the third route in from the corner. Without the big U bolt lower off. Bouldery start on little black pocket then long black wall. FA: G Hill, 2003 | 18m | |||
21 | ★★ The Butcher of Berkeley
Committing climbing up the wall past little overlaps. There is a loose block at the start. Rad moves !! Start: Just right of corner. FA: Mark woodard, 2003 | 18m | |||
20 | ★★ Roger the Tree
Start 1m right of corner. Turn the roof on its right then climb the left wall to single U anchor. FA: Mark Woodard, 2003 | 20m, 9 | |||
22 | ★ A Saddam Saturday
The next one along. Orange slab, to roof flake. FA: G hill, 2003 | 20m | |||
21 | ★ Slabbing with Saddam
The slab of death, last climb in this sector... FA: G Hill, 2003 | 20m | |||
Free Bird Wall | |||||
15 | ★ Free Bird
Start at small crack towards north (left) end of wall. Up grey streak to double bolt belay. From belay head more steeply to groove and top out to double bolt belay. Can be done in two pitches to make use of the great belay ledge. Possible to rap to ground on a 60m doubled rope but extend the rap anchors so you can pull the rope. FFA: KM & Troy Bartlet, 2 Sep 2018 | 32m, 2, 13 | |||
13 | ★ The Girl who Befriended the Crows
Start at the left end of the wall, 1m left of Free Bird. Easily up slab to ledge then through more vertical terrain. DBB on generous ledge if you want to practice multi-pitch. Double bolt lower offs. FFA: KM, 31 Mar 2019 | 26m, 10 | |||
17 | ★★ Old Man Boo
10m left (north) of the Girl who Befriended the Crows on the next wall. Up silly easy slab to start onto perfect featured rock, negotiate tricky bulges to anchors. FA: 26 Nov 2022 FA: Simon Vaughan, 26 Nov 2022 | 15m | |||
15 | ★ Cross Krabs
In the middle of the chimney walkthrough, 20m left (north) and around the corner from Old Man Boo, 7m right of Prawn Wall. Up the nice grey wall, at a thin crack. Belay from the chimney walk through. Bridge up Eiger Sanction style or go straight up the wall. Slightly finicky start to jugs. FA: Simon Vaughan, 17 Oct 2018 | 15m | |||
15 | Prawn Wall
7m left (north) of Cross Krabs at the left end of the chimney walk through. Hardish start to some reasonable holds. Don't pull on the flake thing with the two white crosses on it near the 4th bolt FA: Simon Vaughan, 19 Oct 2018 | 10m | |||
16 | ★ Seafood Tapas
From Prawn Wall, walk around 30m left (north) under a chock stone in a chimney walkthrough, then a further 5m from where the chimney ends. The base of the climb is at a nice wall just left of a grey streak and 5m right of Bonsai. FA: Rick Phillips, 6 Oct 2018 | 20m | |||
17 | ★ Bonsai
5m left (north) of Seafood Tapas and 10m right of a steep descent gully that joins with Chunder's Glen. Sustained up to and over the bulge then cruise to the top FA: Simon Vaughan, 21 Jan 2019 | 15m | |||
Chunders Glenn - Upper Wall | |||||
15 | ★ Sheep Graziers Alert
Up the juggy wall Start: Just right of big cave. FA: Dave Bateman, 2008 | 10m | |||
23 | ★ Married Mans Clip Up
Up left side of cave. Finger jugs, to jugs, to crimpy headwall. Sustained for 12 metres FA: Simon Vaughan, 2009 | 12m, 6 | |||
25 | ★★ Sausage Machine
Fantastic sustained climbing. Shared start (marked) with PP, up and traverse right and continue up steep wall. FA: S. Bullen | 12m, 8 | |||
24 | ★ Pissing Protein
Shared start with SM. Thin bouldery start then straight up steepening wall trending right near the top. Take optional braket for the carrot. 24 in the guide, which feels about right ! FA: G. Hill | 12m, 8 | |||
19 | ★ Roger the Iguana
Thin start on shallow pockets then easier wall to giant U. Sandbag. Start: 4m left of PP FA: Mark Woodard, 2000 | 12m, 5 | |||
18 | ★ Roger the Woodchuck
Up wall to shared giant U lower off with previous climb. Sandbag. Start: The left most climb on this wall FA: Mark Woodard, 2003 | 12m, 5 | |||
Project - Troy
On the back side of the mossy boulder, looks rad ! | 16m, 6 | ||||
Chunders Glenn - Lower Wall | |||||
17 | ★ Roger the Sea Lion
Arcing line just left of arete to solid looking U bolt. All routes from Fat Mark are graded 16. Start: The first climb on the steeper part of the lower wall FA: Mark Woodard, 2003 | 15m | |||
18 | ★ Roger the Boa Constrictor
Line of bolts that goes up to the same U bolt as the preceeding climb. All Fat marks routes come with the standard grade of 16 so take care until you feel solid on 20 before trying it. Start: Two to three meters left of Roger The Sea Lion. FA: Mark Woodard, 2003 | 15m | |||
19 | ★★ Puit Damour
Start up DDD for a couple of moves, then move right and up to anchor. FA: G Hill, 2009 | 20m | |||
21 | ★ Debbie Duz Dishes
Up wall with some thin(ish) moves Start: Marked FA: G. Hill | 25m | |||
20 | ★★ Pat Pat
very ceuse...for one reason alone.... FA: 2008 | 23m | |||
20 | ★★ Tassi Rabbi
Some cool moves direcly up wall to anchor in cave. The only route that does not goto the top off cliff Start: In middle of wall FA: G. Hill, 2000 | 15m | |||
19 | ★★ Maurice the Fart Freak
Long enjoyable jaunt up a great wall, gets a little bit pumpy towards the end. The mandatory warmup... FA: G. Hill, 2000 | 25m | |||
19 | ★★ Smells like Moist Air
Best rock on the wall, gets better the higher you get. Shares first 2 bolts with 'Roger the Hippo', but when RTH veers left continue straight up. Set: Jason Lammers FA: Jason Lammers, 13 Oct 2018 | 25m | |||
18 | ★★ Roger the Hippo
Tricky start, up nice easy face to beautiful orange rock. FA: Woodard, 2000 | 22m | |||
17 | ★ Roger the Rhino
The left most climb on this wall, finishes on shared lower off with preceding climb FA: Woodard, 2000 | 22m | |||
Freedom Of Choice Boulder | |||||
17 | ★★ Jumping To Conclusions
Left hand end of cliff. Bouldery start and trend left to final overhang FA: Rick Phillips, 13 Oct 2018 | 15m | |||
18 | ★★ Freedom Of Choice
4th climb as you go down the hill Start low on the grey face and grunt through the orange overlaps FA: Rick Phillips, 13 Oct 2018 | 20m |