Routes as trad in Central Gully

The climb is located on the left corner of the Central Gully behind the Block and follows the gently sloping corner to emerge on the wall above to the right. The wall provides the crux.

The climb goes through the lower gully cliff and continues up the upper cliffs.

1. Climb the crack between the orange and white wall and into the gully proper

2. Climb the slim groove in the right wall of the gully and up to the steep orange buttress.

3. Hard moves onto the nose of buttress and head for very steep thin crack at left end of orange buttress.

Fierce steep finger crack 20 metres left of Mogadon.

Prominent short corner 10 metres right of Talisman.

Prominent gully 10 metres left of Mogadon. Climb 10 metres then take the right arching groove line.

The obvious chimney 50 metres to the left of Central Gully. There is a prominent roof just to the left of this chimney.

1. 45m Up the obvious crack then up chimney.

2. 45m Mainly slabs to finish.

From "The Guide" 2nd Ed (1995): "This may in fact be another variation on Mogadon. If not, it may still be undergraded. Start at the high point of vegetation at the base of the centre walls. Right of and below nose to the left of the central gully. (i) 35m. Comfortable jamming, bridging and chimneying to top of protruding block. (ii) 45m. Continue up Crack and over blocks onto slab."

1. Start up Mogadon for a few metres then diagonally to blocks on ledge. Straight up flake and pull through small roof (crux). Belay on ledge approximately 8 metres above roof.

2. Follow continuation of crack in buttress till angle eases.

15 metres to the right of Mogadon.

1. 40m Up crack to belay in small cave.

2. 35m Then into groove and up and out left onto slab/rib, up then back into crack, then to belay ledge where crack finishes.

3. 18m Move right, then diagonally up and right, then left until angle eases.

1. 40m Same first pitch as Wodewick - Up crack to belay in small cave.

2. 50m (10) Rightwards to the end of the sickle crack and into small corner formed by blocks.

3. 15m (14) Up corner, past blocks over the small overhang to belay on ledge.

Starts on right wall of central gully 15 metres up from rappel station (gain access from Summit Terraces or gully below). Take med.-large cams and wires.

1. 22m (crux) Desperate start on smooth slab, then up face (crux). 4 fixed hangers to belay on ledge on large broken blocks.

2. 50m Step right from belay then up left to fixed hanger, then left past two fixed hangers through right end of gash to easier ground. Belay where buttress is narrowest (you meet Juluka).

3. 35m Wander up slab.

When seen from the south side the North Wall of Central Gully is split horizontally by a large snaking crack system (almost an overlap). This system starts level with Guano Roof and rises to the Summit Terraces. An obvious and in some places exposed rising traverse. Start 2 metres left of Bull Frog Alley, scramble up short wall and into gully proper at base of obvious groove/chimney.

1. 30m (12) Up groove/chimney for approximately 35 metres then exit left to belay on a big ledge with a free standing rock for company.

2. 35m (16) Move left and traverse along crack system(crux) to belay in alcove around corner. Stay low and beware of loose rock.

3. 40m (15) Continue following crack system at base of overlap to belay at base of finishing gully. Scramble up 35 metres to finish.

A few metres left of Juluka the Central Gully narrows and is blocked by a short wall (2nd abseil pitch of Central Gully Abseil route). Bullfrog Alley takes the thin crack up the arete immediately above this.

1. 30m (15) Straight up thin crack, belay as for first pitch of Juluka.

2. 35m (14) Move left and climb groove/chimney a few metres before the groove ends. Move right and climb the steep blank wall on good holds but poor protection. Gain large left trending crack system and follow this to belay on large vegetated ledge.

3. 50m (15) Traverse right along obvious crack line and ramp. Lonely moves take you around the arete to join final pitch of Juluka. Straight up crack and slabs to belay. 40 metre scramble to finish.

Situated just to the right of the cave-like gully that separates the Central Gully from the Northern Buttress. There are some huge overlaps and cracks here, but unfortunately the overall angle is very low. This climb takes the left hand overlap where the rock is steepest. Start in the gully immediately below the waterfall (2nd abseil pitch for rappel descent route).

1. 30m (15) Climb the diagonal crack and slabs to belay on a small ledge beside and left of the huge overhang.

2. 30m (18) Move up and traverse towards the right under the next overhang in a superb position. Move around corner to gain crack and slabs which leads to a belay ledge beneath a shallow corner.

3. 50m (15) Climb the corner and slabs which eventually leads to the summit terraces.

First pitch is the same as Juluka then heads out through crack system in largest roof (Guano Roof). Aid moves through roof that may eventually go free at grade 24/25. Route then joins third pitch of Mediterranean Cruise.

1. Same as first pitch for Juluka

2. Traverse out on thin pro to reach roof. Good pro in roof crack. Climb out using crack and jugs. Aid moves on good cams to reach roof lip. Pull through on good holds to reach belay stance above roof.

3. Traverse right on slabs to join Mediterranean Cruise at start of third pitch.

Start 10 m R of Guano. Up slabs and walls to obvious short corner. Up this to belay level with Guano Roof.

1. Climb Constipation Corner.

2. Steep crack at right hand end of leaning orange headwall.

Belay at the base of the Constipation Corner crack (not at the base of the mossy slab below).

1. 50m (16) Climb Constipation Corner for 15m. Where the crack finishes, move R over slab, R of large bush. Trend R up slab to gain L facing corner. Up wall L of this, then L across blank face to belay at cave.

2. 20m (17) Directly up through overlap, then up R groove. Belay 3m below next large roof.

3. 50m (15) Turn roof on L, then climb wall L of the crack above for 10m. After the crack finishes, climb 35m of slab, trending R all the way. Belay at small vertical crack. Scramble off.

Same climb as as The Missing Link but in pitch 2 take the L groove.

1. From the bottom of the gully proper, go diagonally right to a large block, step around the corner and ascend the broken groove into a vegetated gully.

2. Climb cracks and thin face to blocks at base of third pitch of Mediterranean Cruise.

Start in the gully right of Juluka below Guano Roof.

1. 42m Up to belay at base of guano-covered corner below Guano Roof.

2. 35m Descend slightly and traverse right to arete. Climb up to right to belay in large cave.

3. 40m Traverse right under overhang and follow corner to gully. Move right to arete and up belay flake on right.

4. 40m Up a slab to top.

1. Shares first pitch with Last Tango in Widgiemooltha.

2. 20m. Traverse across right wall of corner to left trending crack on wall. Up this to belay above roof (crux).

3. 40m. Traverse left and ascend second crack, about fist width. Continue over two overhangs, then trend right to belay.

4. Scramble to finish.

1. As for Last Tango in Widgiemooltha

2. As for Mediterranean Cruise.

3. 40m Straight up the offwidth chimney crack above and then continue up the right crack system.

4. 45m Straight up slab.

5. Scramble to finish.