Routes with min 2 stars in Peak Charles

The sensuous sinuous short crackline right of One Crowded Hour.

Jam crack 2m right of Thin Blue Line.

The corner 3m right of Psycho Surrender. Start up this, move left at the overhang, surmount this and move right to finish.

Technical corner continuing to the right from Terminal Psychosis.

Past Gold Top to the right, around the corner on the hanging face is Peyote. Start up gully system in corner and step onto face using pockets. Move onto face protected by a cam in first pocket. Head up face past one bolt to finish.

Pull right out of niche, climb straight up face.

From the base of the ramp, climb straight up the face.

Climb right trending ramp-like crack to small book end and up the face.

Climb thin crack first from arete. Traverse horizontal break and progress up arete to finish on left face.

From the second pitch of Rapid Fire start from the ledge and pull left out of Rapid Fire and layback and jam the exotic finger flake crack.

1. (12) Climb broken crack to ledge and traverse right to base of curving groove.

2. (21) Climb groove.

Groove/crack round the corner from Rapid Fire.

Where the original finishes right, move left and climb the thin diagonal line in the leaning headwall.

Layback flake at right hand end of crag.

Straight up crackline through slight overhang.

From right of The Wheelchair Access past nose, follow crack and right onto arete and then onto top.

At the far end of Cripple Slab is the obvious crack seen from the tourist track (invisible from below).

Face, overlap and slab left of New Cleary Action.

Right of Yes, We Haffner Bananas. Start in the middle of smooth slabby face, into cave and exiting through highest point of roof.

Climb 3 metres up vertical crack to the left hand side end of the roof. Traverse under the roof and exit at right hand end.

Follow pocks up and left past bolt then straight up on good holds. Take the finger crack through the small roof above.

Route up inside of boulders.

Diagonal crack 10 metres north of tourist ridge to summit. Climb diagonal crack and then finish up left cleft.

Overhanging flake just right of Controlled Burning

50 metres down slope from Controlled Burning is a small wall and on the left side of the arete is a cairn. From it clip the bolt, then proceed up face and right into corner.

Jam through the roof and pull into tenuous groove.

Gain base of crack (crux). Up ledges and slightly right up natural line to top.

2 metres right of Voluptuous. Up big pockets and then slabby face.

Seam in the concave wall behind Beers, Steers and Queers and Trident. Start from the ledge.

Start as for Trident, traverse 3 metres left and then up headwall. 3 bolts, RP5 and 1.5 friend.

3 metres left of Meltdown. 3 bolts and friend 1 and 1.5 in break.

Sports route 30 metres right of Voluptuous.

On the lower level of the summit there are two obvious chimneys. The right one is Summit Lust, the left one of unknown name.

Follow the left edge of the wall immediately right of Ravishing. Up past 2 fixed hangers and several SLCD placements.

Line between Ryobi One Kanobi and Waves and Caves. 1 bolt and natural pro at break. Runout start. Redpoint using draw on first bolt for safety and easy reach.

Begin up crack as for Summit Lust. Break left onto wall. 1 bolt protects crux through roof.

The obvious chimney right of Waves and Caves and situated at the right hand end of the central face.

Start at left edge of lowest point of access to cave. Climb corner and onto shelf.

Start to the right of Garp.

1. 35m (13) Traverse right to alcove right of Garp to gain good hold and first pro (CD) then across to bottom of crack from which direct start can be plotted.

2. 40m (12) Climb out of belay on face to join right facing corner and up to belay on top of large hanging slab.

3. 20m (6) Short scramble to finish in bushes near descent track.

The open corner 15 metres right of Girls Can’t Spit.

1. 40m (14) Small crack below and right of small cave, exit from top crack (crux) up face to left of small gully, belay at top of gully.

2. 40m. Up easy wall, large groove to right.

3. 20m (6) Short scramble to finish in bushes near descent track.

The long onion shaped chimney at the back of Onion Gully.

1. 14m (18) From belay at top of grassy gully, climb chimney (crux). Protection in parallel crack to right. Belay on small ledge.

2. 24m (14) Ascend chimney. Protection in back (large gear). Belay on small ledge in crack (awkward).

3. 24m (13) Chimney upwards to belay under overhang.

4. 25m (11) Climb sloping crack in slabs to finish near tourist track.

1. 14m (18) - same as the first pitch of Onion - From belay at top of grassy gully, climb chimney (crux). Protection in parallel crack to right. Belay on small ledge.

2. 43m (18) Bridge start and step right. Follow left diagonal flared crack and water marks to waterfall. Continue 13 metres up gully and belay on small ledge.

3. 5m (15) Ascend left to ledge below obvious 5m vertical crack.

4. 32m (16) Climb crack, walk to right hand end of large block and climb 3m crack. Walk to centre of huge block 5 metres high, climb and belay on top.

Starts to the left of the prominent pockets on the north side of Onion Gully leading to finger sized crack in slab 10 metres up the gully from Left Edge.

1. 15m (19) Crux. Traverse right across vertical seams to black streak to belay ledge next to large bush.

2. 45m (14) Climb finger sized crack to where flake forms brief corner.

3. 45m. Continue up flake, through bulge, and on to top.

Starts up the left side of Spartacus Flake.

1. Up the crack for a full pitch.

2. A scramble to finish or rappel off (double ropes).

Belay (DBB) from top of flake.

Chimney 10m right of Spartacus Flake, follow crack above.

Start 10 metres right of Left Edge at the Spartacus Flake, from the left side of the gully/chimney. Up the short chimney, then exit into crack above (crux) to reach easier ground. Directly up to finish at the same belay as Left Edge and Spartacus. Mid size cams come in handy at crux.

Belay (DBB) from top of flake.

The very obvious right-facing test piece corner on the right side of Spartacus Flake. A classic climb. It loses stars and you lose bits of flesh if you attempt to offwidth the top rather than climb the face.

1. 35m (19R) The climb heads up the corner and moves onto face to avoid the off-width crack. The face climbing is a bit run out and exciting. Back into corner and to vegetated ledge and trad belay. The retrofitted double rings are misplaced (too close to sharp edge) and unusable if you value your rope.

2. 10m (17) An unpleasant thrutch through vegetation and up another manky corner to the top of flake and loweroffs: choose between the old slings and more badly placed (high drag) retro ring bolts. Good grief.

A lonely but brilliant pitch. Start 3m right of Spartacus. Follow the diagonal crack line. Where this peters out move slightly left and up for 5m, then back right and make for the left hand end of the crack system.

Very bold climb 6 metres right of Love Comes In Hot Spurts by a prominent black streak.

1. 45m Small SLCD in right side then run out to seam. Belay at obvious ledge.

2. 25m Right 5m, then up to ledge.

3. 45m Up trending right.

4. 45m Trend right to belay on terrace beneath headwall. Exit easily off left.

Further up the ridge and above the Spartacus corner on a prominent orange overhanging wall.

The leftward leaning crack in the wall.

Lovely face climbing just left of The Antechinus. Start up the first two bolts of The Antechinus then make a glamorous traverse left on ideal jugs. Grab the quoll by the tail and make a final step up and left with finesse. Cruise up the upper face on crimps, incut flakes and foot jugs. Trends right after the last bolt and shares the lower off on The Antechinus.

A fine route. Enjoyable and memorable face climbing on "gold class" rock. 3 pitches.

1. 30m (19), 10 bolts. Starts approx 15m right of Spartacus (10m past LCIHS) at the prominent orange streak which is clearly visible from camp. Boulder passed the first bolt and immerse yourself in a glorious maze of yellow slopers and crimps. Emerge onto the black wall above and enjoy the romp to the belay on incut jugs and pockets. A splendid pitch of rock climbing. Has rings at 30m so you can lower/rap making for an outstanding 1-pitch route. Watch you rope length on the way down.

2. 30m (12) Trad, finger sized wires and cams. From the belay gain the thin crack and climb up past a ledge to another easy crack. Up this and run it out as the angle eases to the base of a large flake, slightly right. Trad belay at base of flake.

3. 30m, (10) Trad to DBB. Can be linked with P2. Up the wall left of the shallow gulley and huge flake. Continue up on slabs using bomber, but spaced wires and finger sized cams. DBB up high on the "prow" of the slab.

30 metres right of Spartacus.

Not much protection but plenty of loose holds, otherwise pleasant face climbing. The climb is at the right end of the wall right of Love Comes in Hot Spurts just before the Stand Up and Die embayment. It heads up past the short thin crack to loose holds leading to horizontal break, traverse right, up to short crack and face above onto ledge. Rappel off from right end of ledge.

The soaring diagonal crack and corner 6m left of the prominent chimney (Route X). Somewhat awkward at the crux but a challenging line.

Unclear of first ascentionist. The obvious prominent chimney with a scramble to finish.

Follow the bolts up the northern face of the large orange block.

The climb is located on the left corner of the Central Gully behind the Block and follows the gently sloping corner to emerge on the wall above to the right. The wall provides the crux.

The climb goes through the lower gully cliff and continues up the upper cliffs.

1. Climb the crack between the orange and white wall and into the gully proper

2. Climb the slim groove in the right wall of the gully and up to the steep orange buttress.

3. Hard moves onto the nose of buttress and head for very steep thin crack at left end of orange buttress.

Fierce steep finger crack 20 metres left of Mogadon.

Prominent short corner 10 metres right of Talisman.

The obvious chimney 50 metres to the left of Central Gully. There is a prominent roof just to the left of this chimney.

1. 45m Up the obvious crack then up chimney.

2. 45m Mainly slabs to finish.

1. Start up Mogadon for a few metres then diagonally to blocks on ledge. Straight up flake and pull through small roof (crux). Belay on ledge approximately 8 metres above roof.

2. Follow continuation of crack in buttress till angle eases.

15 metres to the right of Mogadon.

1. 40m Up crack to belay in small cave.

2. 35m Then into groove and up and out left onto slab/rib, up then back into crack, then to belay ledge where crack finishes.

3. 18m Move right, then diagonally up and right, then left until angle eases.

Starts on right wall of central gully 15 metres up from rappel station (gain access from Summit Terraces or gully below). Take med.-large cams and wires.

1. 22m (crux) Desperate start on smooth slab, then up face (crux). 4 fixed hangers to belay on ledge on large broken blocks.

2. 50m Step right from belay then up left to fixed hanger, then left past two fixed hangers through right end of gash to easier ground. Belay where buttress is narrowest (you meet Juluka).

3. 35m Wander up slab.

When seen from the south side the North Wall of Central Gully is split horizontally by a large snaking crack system (almost an overlap). This system starts level with Guano Roof and rises to the Summit Terraces. An obvious and in some places exposed rising traverse. Start 2 metres left of Bull Frog Alley, scramble up short wall and into gully proper at base of obvious groove/chimney.

1. 30m (12) Up groove/chimney for approximately 35 metres then exit left to belay on a big ledge with a free standing rock for company.

2. 35m (16) Move left and traverse along crack system(crux) to belay in alcove around corner. Stay low and beware of loose rock.

3. 40m (15) Continue following crack system at base of overlap to belay at base of finishing gully. Scramble up 35 metres to finish.

A few metres left of Juluka the Central Gully narrows and is blocked by a short wall (2nd abseil pitch of Central Gully Abseil route). Bullfrog Alley takes the thin crack up the arete immediately above this.

1. 30m (15) Straight up thin crack, belay as for first pitch of Juluka.

2. 35m (14) Move left and climb groove/chimney a few metres before the groove ends. Move right and climb the steep blank wall on good holds but poor protection. Gain large left trending crack system and follow this to belay on large vegetated ledge.

3. 50m (15) Traverse right along obvious crack line and ramp. Lonely moves take you around the arete to join final pitch of Juluka. Straight up crack and slabs to belay. 40 metre scramble to finish.

Situated just to the right of the cave-like gully that separates the Central Gully from the Northern Buttress. There are some huge overlaps and cracks here, but unfortunately the overall angle is very low. This climb takes the left hand overlap where the rock is steepest. Start in the gully immediately below the waterfall (2nd abseil pitch for rappel descent route).

1. 30m (15) Climb the diagonal crack and slabs to belay on a small ledge beside and left of the huge overhang.

2. 30m (18) Move up and traverse towards the right under the next overhang in a superb position. Move around corner to gain crack and slabs which leads to a belay ledge beneath a shallow corner.

3. 50m (15) Climb the corner and slabs which eventually leads to the summit terraces.

Start 10 m R of Guano. Up slabs and walls to obvious short corner. Up this to belay level with Guano Roof.

1. Climb Constipation Corner.

2. Steep crack at right hand end of leaning orange headwall.

Belay at the base of the Constipation Corner crack (not at the base of the mossy slab below).

1. 50m (16) Climb Constipation Corner for 15m. Where the crack finishes, move R over slab, R of large bush. Trend R up slab to gain L facing corner. Up wall L of this, then L across blank face to belay at cave.

2. 20m (17) Directly up through overlap, then up R groove. Belay 3m below next large roof.

3. 50m (15) Turn roof on L, then climb wall L of the crack above for 10m. After the crack finishes, climb 35m of slab, trending R all the way. Belay at small vertical crack. Scramble off.

Same climb as as The Missing Link but in pitch 2 take the L groove.

Start in the gully right of Juluka below Guano Roof.

1. 42m Up to belay at base of guano-covered corner below Guano Roof.

2. 35m Descend slightly and traverse right to arete. Climb up to right to belay in large cave.

3. 40m Traverse right under overhang and follow corner to gully. Move right to arete and up belay flake on right.

4. 40m Up a slab to top.

Climb starts from the sloping edge above and to the left of the start of Badile.

1. 50m Traverse right for a couple of moves onto the buttress. Climb straight up to the ledge.

2. 40m (14 - crux). Climb face right of corner to meet at its top. Traverse left along horizontal break until it is easy to move up to the right leaning overlap. Up this to belay after 15m.

3. 35m (13) Up the overlap for 5 metres and then step left to the wall. Climb up to thin vegetated crack that widens and is followed to blocks. A nice pitch.

4. 25m Continue up crack.

5. Easy climbing right of Last Tango in Widgiemooltha.

The longest climb in WA, it crosses the face R of Central Gully starting at Raindance and finishing above Karakoram Gully below the summit. There is a continuous line of weakness which is followed the whole way.

1. 50m Use the usual crossing into Central Gully and traverse R along the bushy ledge for 50m.

2. 35m Up to the R hand end of cave, taking the central ramp.

3. 20m Exit cave and climb up to the vegetation at 10m and then out R to find double bolt bracket belay in the middle of the slab face.

4. 40m R across slab, then rising R through weakness and then R to stance on platform. Across gully see a grey buttress.

5. 50m Follow onto grey buttress on skyline to easy going.

6. 30m Walk on to deep gully and descend 2m to belay opposite the breakout on the other side.

7. 30m Cross steep gully (crux) and up wall, to continue R to the next edge of a large gully.

8. 40m Climb the gangway upwards for a few metres and then descend somewhat and take a rising traverse to the red water-worn slab. There are 2 thin dykes across it a third of its height from the top. Belay at dyke at edge of slab.

9. 35m Cross slab via the dykes to R end of cave.

10. 45m Exit cave R and ascend diagonally towards crest. Poor belay.

11. 50m Continue R, crossing the exit from Skyliner. Ahead is Karakoram Gully.

12. 50m At the first gully, climb it, breakout R and head across face for white rock gangway and belay. 13 40m Continue rising traverse above Karakoram Gully and finish up wall on L and return R to stop and belay 50m below summit cave. From here no rope is needed.

A favourite classic. At the foot of the face is a distinct long overlap across a black slab (Beckoning Horizon), start to the left.

1. 40m The layback crack leads to a platform and wall. Up wall two metres to wide ramp to right. From ramp, move onto crack leading to centre of face. At top of crack put in protection and traverse right across face to platform and belay.

2. 30m Above belay, up crack to small roof. Follow crack to thread belay and platform.

3. 35m Follow large flakes till they run out and traverse left around corner into long open corner. Up to platform scoops, poor belay.

4. 20m Walk right along easy line of weakness to large gangway across face, belay at left end (peg).

5. 35m Move left and take wall direct to corner of great overhang and belay at top of rock pile.

6. 40m Climb wall a metre or two from the corner until under the headwall.

7. 30m Up crack, not chimney, above belay to easy ground. Straight up left to belay at foot of water crack.

8. 40m Straight up water cracks.

9. 15m Up steep ramp through headwall onto summit ridge.

Starts at the left-hand end of the overlap that forms the roof to the right of Badile.

1. 15m Gain the overlap and traverse right on underclings and jams, hanging stance at base of corner

2. 20m Climb corner system to belay

3. 50m Climb diagonally right following flake then climb straight up and over small overlap to small ledge

4. 50m Traverse 5 m right and climb steep black slabs to the huge scimitar shaped fissure and climb this to its right hand end

5. 50m Climb the right hand of the two corner systems and finish over the overhang.

6. Scramble to top. Can finish as Badile up unprotected ramp to summit ridge.

1. 20m (23) Climb wall (bolt) and slab between Beckoning Horizon and Trout Dentures.

2. 45m (14) Slabs to belay below a short corner.

3. 50m (16) Slabs to belay beneath imposing orange headwall.

4. 15m (20) Blast up the middle of the orange headwall.

Traverses across the main slab to give access to the upper pitches of Californication. Starts 5 metres left of Homeward Bound at base of cracks, below a large block.

1. 30m (15) Take the crack system to the large block that forms the first belay of Homeward Bound.

2. 45m (14) Climb slab, trending to the right to a large boulder on a ledge at about 35 metres. Traverse right to belay at left end of large vegetated ledge.

3. 25m Walk right along vegetated ledge to end of vegetation.

4. 30m (17) Move right and climb steep slabs to the large overlap system using a bolt runner from Californication.

5. 35m (16) Undercling the overlaps to the final corner and traverse left to belay at end of overlaps.

6. 60m (9) Up corner and slabs to small ampitheatre.

At the lowest point of the cliffs 20 metres right of Trout Dentures there is a large block 20 metres up.

1. 36m (Crux) Straight up the black slab above ledge then rising traverse left to belay on top of block. Note the melted tape from the 1991 fire.

2. Walk left to belay stance where rout joins Trout Dentures.

3. 36m Up slab on left then back right to good nut belay in scoop.

4. 36m Traverse back left until below corner. Up this for 2 metres then rising traverse left to belay in scoop with corner on right.

5. 38m Rising traverse past ledge with small tree(?) at 30m to belay on ledge.

6. 44m Walk right along ledge into pockmarked scoop. Climb out on its left and climb straight up to belay on two horizontal flakes.

7. 42m Straight up to finish.

A good direct and sustained route. Starting as for Homeward Bound, but climb straight up the ‘black face’. Medium to small gear, include extra micro friends and slings. This trad route was sadly retro-bolted in early 2000s with fixed abseil anchors (rings) at the ends of its pitches 1-4, which changes the pitch descriptions somewhat as well. Do not attempt to climb to the 5th bolted belay: there is no gear in between 4th and 5th belays and this is not where the original climb goes anyway.

1. 30m (15) Up face to vegetated ledge 7m up. Past fixed hanger half way up to belay 4m above overlap.

2. 25m (15) Rising traverse 3m R from belay to big cam placement in horizontal crack. Directly through two orange overlaps to belay. 10m R of this pitch are two bolts on an unknown route.

3. 25m (16) Directly up face past nose feature (crux).

4. 30m (14) Up past two fixed hangers to belay at the second grassy ledge.

5. 40m (13) Up past lone grey block, 5m above is crack for nuts. Trend left to sitting trad belay on top of huge block. Ignore the ring bolts 6m R of line.

6. 45m (15R) Up past bush to L and trend L to gain R facing corner/crack. Big #3 camelot. Follow this to large ledge.

7. 55m (8) Up R from ledge and easily as far as rope will allow. Belay, then scramble to top.

Start at the base of Californication / Infinite Pursuit gully.

1. 15m (23) Climb steep black slab on left (bolt) to belay at diagonal break.

2. 40m (18) Straight up slab to belay beneath left hand end of overlap.

3. 10m (21) Climb overlap and thin seam to belay on top of big Californication flake.

4. 50m (18) From left hand end of ledge climb slabs to finish.

Also (18R) variation by avoiding pitch III. Quality all the way. Start 15 metres up the gully.

1. 15m (18) Branch out left to follow the arching line and then launch through to the big ledge.

2. 25m (18) Climb up and diagonally left past a detached flake and climb the headwall (peg runner). Traverse right to the base of the flake crack or straight up to the ledge thus avoiding pitch 3.

3. 25m (20) Steep ground to gain the underside of the flake. Traverse right on jams and then glory laybacking to the stance (or climb thin crack in face of the flake).

4. 30m (17R) Steep slab climbing to the giant overlap system which is followed to a hanging belay at the top of the last corner.

5. 10m (19) Thug through the roof crack and jugs to gain slabs and the big ledge system, or (16) traverse left around end of overhangs for an easier finish.

Start by climbing the right trending diagonal crack system just right of some white streaky rock to the right of Californication.

1. 30m (17) Climb the gully to a big ledge beneath the diagonal roof.

2. 30m (19) Climb the slab and bulge just right of the crack.

3. 40m (15) Directly up slabs to a big ledge.

4. 40m (17) Climb the crack system that splits the slabby buttress.

Follows obvious cracks at back of gully. Allows access to all sorts of interesting things.

The first shallow corner 30 metres right of Endless Quest. Up this corner and step left and then the wall above. From the top of the climb escape off to the right.

A powerful expedition and no doubt one of the best trad routes at the grade in WA. The large north facing overlap system which can be clearly seen from the rock pools above the Old Campsite Crag.

1. 25m (23) Gains the diagonal corner crack (more like a giant overlap) and climb it until it gets very flared. Tension down to rare footholds. Regain the crack which gives easier climbing to the belay. Impressive looking and a grade 23 version of Beckoning Horizons !!

2. 45m (16) Climb the corner.

3. 45m (15) Climb up to the large busy ledge system via the corner/gully or better by the slabs on the left.

4. 40m (17) Towards the left hand edge of the large ledge is a corner crack. This is easy to spot. Climb the corner stepping left with exposed moves (crux) past the little roof. Run it out on secure slab climbing to belay in the ledge/alcove above.

5. 40m (21) A very elegant pitch. Go left on the ledge to below the line and climb the diagonal overlap (crack) which starts at the left hand end of the ledge. After 20 metres enter the hanging corner by a hard move and climb this and the wall above.

6. Easy slabs to summit.

Crack and wall on left side of Arc of Iris. Start on platform and climb left trending crack to base of wall. From here straight up to belay.

The central apex of the Arc of Iris. Start as for others and climb blankish wall to shelf below overhang, then crank over lip.

The arch-like roof about 70 metres right of Endless Quest. Start on the platform to the left. Climb to base of the overhang up slab. Reach over lip for holds on upper face. Belay in front of tiny cave.

Approximately 100 metres right of Endless Quest is a large black slab. At the extreme right of this are two gullies approximately 10 metres apart. Up the middle of the arete which separates these gullies is a curving scimitar shaped crack line. Start at the base of this.

1. 50m (15) Up crack till it curves right, then straight up through short head wall to belay ledge.

2. 40m (6) Scramble then walk up gully to belay blocks where gully starts to narrow.

3. 20m (9) Up gully to belay on small vegetated ledge below steep wall.

4. 50m. (15) Up gully to just below overhung water runnel (crux). Move right through easy ground up and then left to regain gully system. Steeply up this to belay on large terrace.

5. 100 metre scramble to summit.

A fine outing up fairly steep rock.

1. 50m (15) Start as for C.O.T.U. First pitch as for Conquistadors of the Useless Pitch I.

2. 42m (13) Move right from belay to gain obvious gully/grove. Straight up groove passing large precarious blocks. Belay below overlap directly above blocks.

3. 24m (15) Left under overlap (rising traverse), move round corner, then straight up short wall to belay ledge directly below right trending gully.

4. 30m (14) Straight up from belay for approximately 2.5m (gully on your right) then diagonally right for approximately 5m to gain short crack and welcome protection. From here move diagonally left a few metres, then straight up aiming for large crack system above. Belay at base of crack.

5. 50m (15) Straight up crack, exit left, then continue on until angle eases and a belay can be established.

6. 50m Scramble towards the summit.

7. 50m Scramble up to the summit cairn.

Starts from the beginning of the fourth pitch of Conquistadors of the Useless.

1. 50m (14) Climb out of the gully diagonally up and right into the bottom of the corner which is followed to a good belay.

2. 30m (13) Continue on the same line crossing the 5th pitch of Conquistador to scramble to the top.

”Big wall” fun. Start 25 metres right of Riders On the Storm. Scramble 5m up to gain a small ledge that is 3 metres below a large block forming a left-rising overlap.

1. 50m (14) Up past left edge of block, up crack with bush (bypass bush to right), then directly up crack above. Scramble between two large bushes and up deep gully behind them. Belay at the base of twin cracks (1 metre apart) at the end of gully, just right of large guano streaks.

2. 50m (16) Up twin cracks for 8m. When the left crack ends traverse right onto detached flake and up it. Directly up black slab just right of prominent gully/corner, aiming for the cave/roof above. Belay left of it.

3. 40m (17) Just left of cave is a shallow corner split by a 5 metre finger crack. Some strenuous moves lead up this (crux), then slightly right and directly up until wide terrace.

Descend as per Riders On the Storm.

Start 5m R of the Neanderthal chimney and 20m downhill of a boulder with a cave at the base of the cliff. Follow the right leaning fault/crack to belay in the short corner where crack meets right hand roofs. A few hollow holds and exciting at the grade.

The first pitch initially follows User Frenzy, the climb then shares much ground with Skyliner.

1. 45m (16) Follow the right leaning crack, there is some hollow and loose rock. As the climb gets steep, move first rightwards away from the crack, the leftwards across thin holds to belay at a small overlap 3m left of bushy gully, near scoops in the face.

2. 40m (13) Straight up and slightly leftwards along face, protecting at the blocks. Belay 15m below bushy ledge.

3. 30m (6) Scramble up to left side of bushy ledge and climb to below base of 7m headwall.

4. 45m (15) Climb the headwall using blocky ramp and marginal protection on left side of thick flake. Continue up dimpled face above to large scoop belay. 5. Scramble 100m to summit cairn.