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Routes as trad in Bayside Lower East

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Showing all 5 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
15 The Comeback Trail
Trad 50m
20 Greenpeace
Trad 50m
18 Return of the Whale
Trad 50m
16 Hooray and Up She Rises
Trad 80m
18 She Sells Sea Shells

A fun multipitch up excellent orange marbled rock. The easiest sport route on the lower cliffs, and conveniently right below the left end of Windjammer Wall. As with any route on the lower cliffs, good conditions are key to enjoyment. Keep an eye out for a breezy, low humidity day and the rock will be glorious. In other conditions it can be damp and slippery! As of June 2013 the final pitch has been partially de-bolted, so you will need to use trad gear on this pitch or finish up one of the plethora of classics on Windjammer Wall. First, get to the base of Windjammer Wall anyway you can (rapping down Man Overboard is probably the best). Walk to the far left end of the crag to where the vegetated ledge ends and a very narrow rock ledge begins (5m left of the base of the route Midnight Lightning and below the route Beside the Seaside). Edge cautiously along ledge for a few metres to find double rap rings below the route Beside the Seaside (p.66 in Climb Point Perp print guide). Rap 45m from these bolts to medium sized rock ledge about 10m above the ocean. There is a single RB to belay from. You will need two 50m ropes. You CANNOT use the anchors at the end of pitch 1 as a midway rap point as they are too diagonal and overhung to reach. The start of this route is actually shared with the start of the 2nd pitch of the old climb Hooray and Up She Rises (p.128 of the Climb Point Perp print guide.)

  1. 20m (18) From the single RB belay follow the bolts up and slightly right through a couple of bulges and lots of slopers to small ledge. Double RB belay.

  2. 25m (17) Left trending RBs to 'slot' and small bush. Climb past this annoying impasse anyway you can, then left and up to ledge left of Midnight Lightning and double RB belay.

  3. 30m (15) Finish up 'Beside the Seaside'. You will need some trad. From above the anchors climb tricky fused corner for a few metres then romp up a series of grey walls and ledges past 2 rings to top of cliff. This was/is a partial retrobolt of Beside the Seaside. Alternatively walk along the Windjammer Wall ledge and exit via Man Overboard or Grey Mist.

FFA: Rick Phillips, 2013

Mixed trad 75m, 3, 10

Showing all 5 routes.

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