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Route in Lemmings Wall

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Grade Route Gear style Popularity
18 Desert Raven

Despite point perps affinity with exposure, this surely has to rank among the most wild. A rap in climb out a-fair that is every bit terrifying as it is genuinely great climbing, good gear and holds appearing from thin air. Rap down 15m off the most overhung point you can find (a couple long cracks in the #1-0.5 range provide anchors, think dropping a rock that will hit nothing for the point), to a nice ledge (get some swing going to land on it) with a series of chossy vertical cracks leading skyward (these are actually waiting for an FA but this is not what Desert Raven climbs)... Oh no, head up a couple meters before traversing hard left over space on the overhung and pocketed wall that doesn't seem to have any holds or gear up high. Save a crucial #3 for the last pocket and mantle up onto the slab moves at the very top of the arette to a small ledge where you can sling an amazing thread. Step a hard right and finish up the last 3m of splitter fist jams directly above your belayer, topping out next to your rap line. A single rack of cams from 0.3-#4 and a 120cm sling for the thread is all thats required.

FA: Chris Wallace, Brendon Plaza & nathaniel glavurdic

Trad 20m

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