Routes in Port Stephens

Commence at base of slab. Straight up the blunt arete split by a thin crack with increasing difficulty.

Start as for 1a but at about half height traverse right and then up easier line

Up left of the basalt seam on the orange rock. Do not climb the basalt as it will crumble and kill your belayer.

The dangerous basalt chimney. Not recommended.

Start as for The Dead Albatross to first bolt, then left to stay left side of arete . Continue up past two little triangular rooflettes. No basalt or bridging to be left. Set up as toprope for now - use fixed hangers backed up with trad, or bolt plates at top of Bicycle Graveyard, or both.

The blunt arete on bolts to the right of the basalt seam. Undercut start. Need nonPFH bolt plates and 2 cams for anchor + 1 FH

The crack with the undercut start. Boulder in from right. Rock a little friable in crack, and tends to seep. Straight up crack, veering left and then back at top. Can be led on bolts from 'Petes route' which heads right, and cams at top, but has DBB straight above for easy Top rope.

Start as for bicycle graveyard - up crack- but head right at the top following bolts

Up corner to roof. From roof head out left on U bolts to shared anchor with Pete's route, may need some small cams after the roof to avoid a bad fall.

Up corner to roof then step right and continue up crack to top out. Bolts on block above. Often wet under roof.

Essentially the easier mix-tape variant of Cracked It and Cocky Monkey. Start left up the corner to stepped arete left of CM, continuing up the corner crack once past the roof. Good as a toprope off the hex bolt anchor.

Follow U bolts just to right of trad climb up slightly overhung wall. Bolts spaced so be careful off ledge.

To right of Cocky Monkey. Follow carrots up hand crack and over roof to last RB on CM and up to anchors. PFH 45 degree plates dont fit.. Refrigerator size block has come off to the right of the bolts in mid 2015. Likely to have more loose blocks.

Up narrow corner to letterbox hold in small roof. Cams help supplement the lower two bolts. Step around roof onto face and into finger crack, then thin past bolts. Traverse a short distance right to DBB (as for next two routes) a large refrigerator size block has come off to the left of this route in mid 2015.

Up to ledge then up face - many variants, difficulty increases away from corner

Up to ledge and into corner/flake. Take care with flake, these features have a habit of breaking of without warning

Up to ledge head straight up on layaway to pockets and then crimps and long moves to top

Up to ledge traverse right 1.5m and then up on good holds to undercling and top

Start: As for 6a

Up wide chimney near tide line, on often wet holds, taking care of block near top

Arete on the southern ocean side of the inlet.

Traverse from arete along diagonal break.

Traverse 20m along lower wall then up through bulge.

Back southern side or inlet.

S3. This is a serious undertaking. This is a no fall climb due to a submerged boulder right in the landing zone. Start from the ledge to the right, starting on the arete, trend up and left to head up the middle of the face.

The arete on its right side.

The awesome hand sized crack between the main land and the island. A little sharp.

No so easy when wet!

Start from the chimney ledge. Nice easy hugging up the pillar.

Easy down climb or exit to/from the island.

Off the small ledge.

Moving right off the ledge.

Boulder problem off on the island up the middle of the face. No water landing!!

The right arete, nice committing moves.

Up the narrow face right off the ledge. Grade includes the traverse in from the right chimney.

The fun arete with the pockets above the steep section.

Up the crack or the slab.

Head left off the Emergency Exit ledge and up the centre of the face. Holds abound.

The corner to gain the top of the island.

Left most climb in the shorter wall section. Starting on centre pocket and following the large crack up to the left. Beware the cactus.

Starting as for CW, following the crack up to the right instead.

1m right of TBWL, follow the vertical crack up.

1m right of CU in the corner. Starting on diagonal crack, no using the obvious ledge for feet, fun moves in corner to top.

The face to the right of Diaganelly. Start near the corner and move up to the right, beware of flaky holds around the first move, all holds okay to the top after that.

The arété to the right of DFO. Tricky start to some thin pinches and side pulls to fight your way up to the comfortable edge.

The flat face around to the right of NN. PROJECT: no route completed yet, please feel free to climb and message with details and assigned grade if you are FA here.

Thin sharp crimps and pinches with small toe holds with some mono pockets.

The corner to the right of SS. Nice start setup for hands and feet. Pocket/edge on the right and compress with left, bring right foot up and go for the top.

No using comfortable edge to the right.

1m right of MB. Using same pocket as for MB but to the right of it. Up to the comfortable ledges, moving right to top out. A little exposure near the top for those starting out due to fall zone.

Tricky setup, water pools around base so your feet will end up in it if you slip and don't want your mats sitting in the water.

Muscly climb up and over short arété

The face around to the right from FS. Great beginner crack climb.

The deep corner chimney to the right of SCA. Fun, easy wedge moves to shimmy your way up and out.

The arété to the right of HHH. Tricky for the feet to start on tiny impressions, wide pinch the arete with your left hand, right hand on small ledge, commit up to sloper with your right, bear down to bump left hand up and work your way over the top.

PROJECT WALL: first wall that you come to when you walk in. Feel free to send your topo/grade info through.

Small, sharp pinches/crimps with some equally sharp mono pockets on a vertical face.

Up thin seam starting off ledge above water line, 2m left of hand crack arete. 2 ring bolts are on the platform above and serve as anchors for routes in this area.

Crack just right of arete starting off ledge

Chrissy corner 1 m right of arete. Not recommended.

A series of stepped inset ledges. Step left to belay of a second set of bolts

Shallow crack at Right hand end of wall.

The corner on the left of the wall, up flakes to top

Straight up face right of prominent flake

Start as for liger but follow diagonal line to the right

The blunt arete 3 m right of The flake

Right of blunt arete up thin seam, starting at two knobs

Seam/ finger crack that bisects the wall.

The reddish crack left of the right arete

The corner just left of downclimb ramp

Easier way to top on jugs

Easier access left hand end of wall up squeeze chimney

Crack 1 m Right of access chimney. Drilled bolt holes in this. It does not need bolts.

Up the left side of sinuous rib of rock in centre of wall

Right side of sinuous rib of rock in centre of the wall. Left of scar-like feature to pocket and straight up past the horizontal break. Top section is likely much harder if not tall.

Into alcove just right of nose. Up over nose onto slab, easier if tall

1m right of nose up and left on diagonal line

Overhung arete, a bit contrived but fun

Left facing corner with vegetation. Overhung start just left of rooflet at half height. Good stemming

Start where platform drops a metre heading left and up flake

Straight up line just left of open book corner

Finger crack just right of open book corner

The arete to mantle. Finish straight up of head up ramp to right

Overhanging corner at right end of wall just left of down climb

Left end of easy wall, often has water below.

Crack in the middle of left wall

Starting at the small ledge, up the easy cracks to top out.

Traverse the left wall

Step off the ledge then straight up left of the prominent crack.

The best line here. The main hand/finger crack on the back left corner.

The corner chimney