Incredible three sided square cut chimney one pitch off the ground with exciting moves negotiating the roof exit. Climb Hang Onto Me to new DBB on side of large block. Clip into anchor and either climb the juggy overhung lip on the right or stem straight up the steep corner to establish in the base of chimney. Best to bring belay to here. Climb the three sided chimney on incredible friction rock with great gear up right side crack to exit left via friction stemming and microcam protection. Easily to top DBB. Incredibly unique climbing on immaculate rock. Stays in the shade till lunch.
Classic hard crack and face climbing. Starts midway between Gizmo and Mustang Wanted. Up the steep line to a bolt. Desperate cranking takes you to a good ledge. Up the nice groove to finish at the tree.
Starts 15m left of Secrets Found. Boulder up the thin crack then follow the crack and face above to a rest below an overhanging hand crack. Up this using the strength of ten men and one puny man. Then finish easily to the mid-way ledge. Rap from the tree.
FA:Joe Lynch, Tony Barten, Min Sheppard & Jesse Shanagin, 10 Jun 2014
Start at the prominent orange streak bordered by two thin cracks about 60 metres right of Personality-Free Zone. Climb desperately up the steep thin hands crack until it ends at an overlap at 10 metres. Move left and crank steeply up the thin corner until the angle eases. Finish easily to ledge and belay at tree.
FA:Joe Lynch, Tony Barten, Min Sheppard & Jesse Shanagin, 9 Jun 2014
