Routes in Granite Belt for selected grade

Four metres right of Alex In Wonderland head up to a bolt via a hollow sounding flake and then on to a small ledge on the right. Left and up past two more bolts. SLCD belay. Rap as for Alex In Wonderland.

Right of 'Match Fit' - start on generous undercling, throw for good holds and continue up.

Start just left of Ma Ling Ling, move left up the seam and follow it to the top left of the boulder.

Reach/jump to nice ledge then up.

Stand start just right of tree with low LH and RH in runnel. Punchy, reachy and classic.

The beautiful pocketed bulge. Squat start same as “Liminal” on the ideal rail and move up to pockets. Chill mantle out.

Jsbc Oliver Rickford

Originally a sit start problem on a low undercut(V4) (believed to have been ripped off sometime in late 2019/early 2020). This route is still a well worth doing stand start. Hands wide to start for a compression move to gain the bulge and up. Now more like V2/3. Careful of your right arm on the initial moves a fall back and right past the tree would be bad for you!

Right and left hand crimp feet on and jump to left sloping rail.

Climb the sharp arete with tricky mantle and awkward footholds.

Sit start on rail and mantle out. Don't use the 'Egg' boulder behind you.

Stand stand in little chasm with opposite side pulls at face height. Move straight up well-featured wall on crimps, heading towards the vertical runnel.

In old guides this problem was a V6. With a medium sized section of rock removed near the beginning, the problem has changed. Start as for The Seamstress and at roughly 2/5th's height move right across the face for the rail at the top.

Follow up the arete to the right of Dexterity. strong start into a fingery balancy top section.

Stand start with the lowest positive holds and very high foot. Grit your teeth at the sharpness and straight up.

The high slab on the boulder directly facing All or Nothing. Start up vertical seam then up and left to a high topout. One of the best problems anywhere.

The Boulder behind “Kamikazi”. Up thin and solid slab face.

An intricate slab problem starting on a good left foot, finger pad mono for the left and a slap with some dimples in it for you right. Delicate moves right and then ascend trending left to stay on the face as long as you can. Bailing early is tempting but detracts from the length of slab available to you!

Sit start with high Lh on knobby crimp and low face level Rh on offset crimp- and work upwards on progressively better holds.

Near the edge of the slab (two metres right of Summerbreeze) pull onto the wall just left of the shallow groove to a jug/plate. Sling this and up to a bolt. Left and up to step back right at the top of the groove to a second bolt. A reachy move right leads to a jug and sling. Back left and up to tree belay (well back).

Dick Henderson and Scott Camps April 1986

Overhanging Bulge provides a good mantling challenge. Found facing away from the access road on the backside of “Bitter” bloc.

1. Start to the left under the bulge standing on rock.

2. Use left side and under the bulge.

3. Ledge on top of bulge.

4. Mantle to win.

5. Top out is easy from there.

Descent: Exit to your right hand side, downclimb steps/ledges.

Video: https://www.instagram.com/p/Btpuq1ABt6o/

Stand start in the scoop left around from Holiday In . RH on jug around the right of arete, and LH on obvious crimp in horizontal rail. Figure out a way to escape the scoop, to a easy mantle out.

Fantastic clean overhanging splitter crack found down gully from Space and Energy block. Hands to offwidth. Toprope, trad lead or boulder problem, it's up to you.

Start on high crimps and mantle out. Mind the fall zone above the sharp rock

The rippled face- up and left on the same Boulder as Cyn’s Project.

Stand start with high RH crimp and LH on lower good sidepull-crimp with average feet. To be fair, it’s easier to dyno to the lip! The left side of the arete is most certainly out (choss).

Left of “Spiral of Silence”. Stand start matched on sloper jug. Figure out a way to power straight up.

Crouch start on lowest good crimps terrible feet. Work to top rail and begin traverse around bulge to the slab face using asthetic diagonal crimp rails continue around to the far left to decent ledge for top out.

Stand start in the middle of the slab and dance upwards a mono cruxs awaits you.

Mantle problem left of Awkward Silence. Pull up on decent holds, high step and rock your way up to glory. Take care traversing off the top.

Jump start to gain good RH sidepull and decent LH crimp, then bust a big move up the arete

Tim Nicholson

Go left and up from the belay to traverse four metres left along small foot ledges to a short flake. Up, moving slightly right to a bolt. Push it out diagonally left to a second bolt and then up and left again to a third bolt. Steeply through the bulge to finish. Scott Camps and John Pearson April 1986

7a in guide

1b in guide

Stand start on crimps, an easier version of Fisty Cuffs At Dusk, but with high step mantle crux. Avoiding the holds of 3 For 6.

S arete of Pudding rock

Stand start. Hands start on crimpy rail. Pull up to crack of Poofteenth of a Smilly Whisker where it heads up to top up. Follow this line to the top.

On boulder 40 of the Peter Crane and Pinnacle Sports guides

On the right wall of the corridor 3m left of First Crack. Hardish start then great climbing up the series of long sidepulls

Up blunt arete slab. When the blankness hits/ use your feet!

Stand start Lh small pizza crimp, Rh on slopey arete crimp.

Start on left hand slopey jug, right hand in the seam. Move right and up through the middle section through sharp slopey goodness.

For connoisseurs of the esoteric. On the right end of Owl's In The Moss boulder when facing it from the road. Low sit/lying start with feet on the base of the arete, and both hands pinching the arete. Thrutch your way up the underside to 'mantle' at the highpoint, using the pocket on your way. You know you want to...

Left from the belay and up to a bolt at 15 metres. Thin past this then up to a second bolt. Up with another move left at the bulge to a third bolt then up to finish. Scott Camps and Stuart Camps Jan 1986

FFA Issy Jukes.

Sit start. Punch up from a good little right hand flake and a poor left hand sidepull. Hit some outrageously coarse slopers on the lip, and mantle out.

Stand start in the middle of the face with edges and delicately balance your way up on the scrotum-face gaining a delicious finishing hold

Stand start with LH “fang” and RH obvious juggy crimp and low rails for feet. Get your squeeze on!

6i in guide

Up the obvious crack.

Stand start up the arête.

If only it went for 500m’s of finger jams like the stand start of this problem. Move left following the crack with limited feet- moving up into the corner and ascending high. Be aware of the small fridge sized flake out left that’s loose

Stand start down the gully with crimps in the horizontal flake feature. Traverse left joining into “Capital of Cool”.

Sit start on jug and follow natural line to the right to reach juggy pocket and easy top out.

Use the flake at the bottom to start. Follow the crack to the top

Sit start with the two underclings. Up to flake then a long move to the lip

Stand start with hight RH sidepull and LH high slope. Up and atom. Named after the rare gecko found in the big undercling on the low start. Be careful of him

Round the right hand end of the big main boulders. Up the cool golf ball textured wall. Campus start quickly leads to improving holds and an engaging finish. There's a hard sit/low start waiting for someone strong. V9-ish?

Tim Nicholson

4f in guide

Really aesthetic line up the leaning arete, slightly marred by some less than perfect rock. Sit start, tic tac up arete and mantle direct over the nose.

Easiest access to this side of the sector is by walking a bit further up Barracks Road til it bends left and you see boulders on your left in the trees. Full Frontal is 50m in, walking directly away from the road.

Stand start. Right foot on low wobbly flake. Left hand reaches high. Head up and right on tiny holds for top. Beware falling at the top and shaving your back down the boulder to the right (home to Michael the Magician). Beware, there is no easy way off this boulder. Prepare to either downclimb or jump.

Boulder is located just to the left (when facing Magic Mike) of boulder 5 in the Peter Crane and Pinnacle Sports Guides.

First problem at the new area to kick things off. Stand start with thin crimps and a high right heel, and traverse the picturesque arete left. https://youtu.be/Gl83mI69nX4?si=4AJq6vzJI6QkLSQZ

1j in guide

Stand start with high side pull and RH on dimple arete. Dynamic climbing to a “harder then it seems” mantle out.

Quality. Sit start to Northern Pass and the logical full version. Layback the right side of the curving arete, top out via good jug on face

5f in guide

2b in guide. Slab, better than it looks, start off the block out R then up the face

To the right of “Chilli Omlette”. Stand start with LH on sidepull sloper in the cheesy, water runnel, RH on non-existent “diced bacon” ripple, utilising the obvious “saucy” ledge for feet. Break a slice off, moving up and over the bulge to a gourmet top.

Located just right of Repose crack route. Jump start to LH sloper RH crimp, right heel hook to left gaston in runnel, match hands, LH to good crimp rail. top out far left. Arete is out

Sit start on arete with feet on big foot ledge. Sequency climbing up curving lip that wants to spit you off

Stand start matched hands on good edge, power up through crimps on the Arete staying on the right side of the Arete to easy top out.

4a in guide. Walk past the stunning overhanging arête. Stand on the rubble to the right of it, grab the good hold, the hollow sounding hold then up and mantle, don’t grab the tree

7c in guide. Sit start on the slightly steep diagonal rail, up through delicate top out

9b in guide. Stand start in open corner, go to slopers on lip, then into the crack and straight up to finish. Sit start is mentioned in the original topo, but looks significantly harder than V3

Climb to high BR then straight up with increasing difficulty past another 2 BRs to a bolted belay. Tricky slab climbing separated by rests in the scoops.

Diagonal line on top of the hill