Routes in Below the Waterfall

A brilliant technical and treacherous one move wonder with blind grabs, long reaches, smeary feet and barndoor consequences. Incredibly rewarding.

A traversing line between the Bowel and the crack. Start at the gaston, and make your way using the face holds and tiny feet over to a good compression, and finish up the crack. The tree that marked the start of this route has since fallen.

Start with left hand on the big sloper and move up to the crack to the left before topping out.

Follow the textbook hand crack (if only it was 10 times longer...)

Or cheat and face climb it to avoid the crack.

Crouch layback start off the down turned ledge, bump left to the sidepulls and step across. Reach up to the juggy ledge, mantle and you're done! The jugs and crimps to the right of the sidepull and mantle ledge are out. Please preserve as much of the moss and lichen as possible.

A few metres R of the SpaK boulder. The wide crack. You know what to do.

A balancy squat start with a right hand round the corner, follow the line up the face to the pad deep vertical ridge to then top out in the middle of the boulder. Fun balancy climbing.

Sit start at the bottom RHS of the boulder, no extra little rocks for feet! Squeeze up the right side with easier ground gained at the leftward moving topout.

Fun little compression climb up the front of the lone standing pillar like boulder on the right.

A modern classic. Stand start matched on the big incut side pull, move across to the large ledge, mantle and gain arete, then stretch up and top out at the highest point.

Start 1m rightish of mantle into the cosmos' start holds with hands on crimps. Make your way to the lip and mantle out. Can be done several ways all about the same grade. Big flake on mantle into the cosmos is out.

Stand start from the good crimper right of the large sidepull, crank and make big move out right to the slopey rail to a dirty mantle

Clean line up an extremely featured and slightly overhanging wall with characteristic movement and a great finish. Stand start compressing the left hand incut sidepull-crimp and the higher right hand sloping edge. FAist welcome to rename and document their ascent/s.

A really classic line that only improves on the stand version with a few additional moves. Starts with left hand on the left side pull of the fridge feature, and right hand on the low crimp. Originally sent 6+ years ago and was renamed after being cleaned mid 2020. FAist welcome to come forward rename and document their ascent/s.

Project starting on the broken jug just right of Cosmic Dancefloor above the no fall zone. Looks classic and subtle, but sketchy.

Start matched on good hold and half campus up and mantle.

Start on the good left hold and traverse right and then up.

Stand start, move right on blocky slopy holds

Start on the slopers then move left and up and traverse to arete and up

Sit start on sloper, throw to right pinch, delicate foot then hump to lip.

Sit start and up very thin crimps on near vertical wall

Regrade proj due to holds exploding.

Up arete

Left up the diagonal blunt rail

Like a castle hill problem. Subtle holds, lots of tension.

Right next to the 'Tiny Little mantle' with the 'Obsidian' to your back is this awkward problem.

Sit start with Ok hands but then an ugly move into the slab.

Sit start on slopers with good feet in the wrong place.

Same start as Fire Up. From the ledge traverse left past a sloper and sidepull to join and finish up the arete.

Sit start on small undercling. Can be done using the numerous small holds or with larger dynamic moves, either option is about as hard. Mantle over the top.

Right hand on good undercling, side pull to left then throw left to good edge, match throw again and mantle.

Rob’s problem. R-hand on small undercling. L-hand over lip on bad sloper. Throw R-hand to big edge. Match. Throw R-hand out R to hold over lip. Mantle.

Start on the right side pull, reach left, then traverse left and top out.

Start on the right side pull, then slap and move straight up.

Start matched on the good right hold, then link up left across the whole face.

Start of right face edge, then traverse left and up.

Sit start under roof then slap and up. Many many ways to do it.

Sit start with left hand on sidepull and right hand on rail 1 mtr to the right of small roof. Use jugs to go straight up the groove.

Sit start with both hands on rail to the right of the arete. Use jugs to go up.

Boulder sitting over the water opposite of Chunky Boulder. Start on lowest ledge, jug out to the right, left hand crimp throw, high left foot, then ladder and top out.

Tenuous layback

Crimps and slab up face

Much more juggy than you'd think.

Start right under roof on opposed awesome jugs with a good right heel, then slap and jug up. Can be a bit awkward to avoid the rock on the right.

Fall into water

Start on the lower rail and then bust up.

Start as for graffiti arete. Bust left and mantle the face. Stay away from the arete's holds.