Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Trad | |||||
27 | ★★★ Citizen Arcane
Obvious leaning crack line. One of the best traditional routes around. Take cams up to #3 C4. FFA: Chris Glastonbury, 2012 | 24m | Frederick Peak | ||
28 | ★★ Portrait Direct
The thin suspect crack 1m left of Gone in Sixty Seconds straight up to join into the crux of Portrait. Take up to size 1 Camalot and 7 draws. Have a solid belayer you trust from crack to first bolt is commiting. FA: Andrew Doubleday, 1998 FFA: Glen Hayford, 28 May 2021 | 20m, 7 | Mt Stuart | ||
27 | ★★ Lost Hanger
Start on small extruding block passed when climbing DBMP. Up jugs passing wires to large horn and a FH. Out past 2nd FH then over lip to final bolt (use 80cm sling). Up slab to summit. Do not place gear on slab and do not second this climb due to knife blade edge on lip. FFA: Steve Ioannou, 2008 | 20m, 3 | Frederick Peak | ||
27 | ★★★ Kiteline
DBB. FFA: Christopher Glastonbury & Ashlee Hendy, 30 Jun 2018 | 13m | Frederick Peak | ||
27 | ★★★ Brudl
Brudlly good. On the RHS of the block. Starts up the lowest finger crack, up to the horizontal, a move R and up the off finger crack. Finish L into the corner. FA: Doug Hockly, 1999 | 9m | Magnetic Island | ||
Sport | |||||
27 | ★★★ White Gold
Gobsmackingly good climbing that links an impressive line up a subtle arête, roof and overhung headwall. Very pumpy. Don't fall off on the last move! FA: Neil Monteith, 2012 | 32m, 14 | Frederick Peak | ||
28 | ★★ Specialized
Break right from the 3rd bolt of MS to gain the corner. Funky crux through the roof to the engaging 3D groove above. FFA: Steven Ioannou, 21 Jul 2023 | 25m | Castle Hill | ||
27 | ★★★ Hyperbole
As for Townsvillians, but go straight up, then punch R with mind blowing scoops to a rest below roof. Breach the roof, and desperately undercling your way right to anchor. Overhangs 10m. 13 bolts. FFA: Lee Cujes, 2009 | 25m, 13 | Frederick Peak | ||
28 | ★★★ Supernova
An upper pitch route. Starts at MN's first belay. Up R past four bolts, then a traverse out R onto super exposed overhanging wall. Devious bouldery crux then pumpy jugging up right to top out the wall. FFA: Steve Ioannou, 2012 | 25m, 13 | Frederick Peak | ||
27 | Firefly
FFA: Steven Ioannou, 8 Apr 2017 | 20m, 12 | Frederick Peak | ||
28 | Meiosis
| 30m | Frederick Peak | ||
27 | ★★★ Synaesthesia
Starting from the anchors of Cognition, move up L out to the striking arête and straight up the exposed arête to a rest. Edge your way up to a layback, then veer sightly R towards the welcome ledge. FFA: Chris Glastonbury, 2012 | 35m, 16 | Frederick Peak | ||
28 | ★★ Short Kraken
The shorter version of The Kraken. | 14m, 7 | Frederick Peak | ||
27 | ★★★ Hammerhart
Stickclip first bolt below undercling flake, up this with tricky feet. Crimp through bulge to rest, then balance out right over to jugs, bail here (Hammerhalf 26) or continue up the quality face. FFA: 28 Aug 2020 | 22m, 12 | Castle Hill | ||
27 | ★ The Llewellinator
Direct extension to Clear and Copious, straight up from anchors Set: Gareth Llewellin, 2012 FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 19 Jun 2018 | 25m | Frederick Peak | ||
28 | ★★★ Trench Foot
Extension to Kneebar Nexus. Battle onward through final core intensive section. Break out onto steep juggy terrain some 50m off the deck. Power through top roof on superb holds to triumph atop Supernova Wall. Redirect through Kneebar Nexus anchor to avoid being trapped dangling out in space. FFA: Chris Beric/Chris Glastonbury/Steve Ioannou, 2013 | 30m, 10 | Frederick Peak | ||
28 | ★★★ Hypernova
The "Supernova" extension! After the crux, step L and keep on pumping which makes it longer and more full-on. Brutal! FA: Steve Ioannou, 2012 | 37m, 20 | Frederick Peak | ||
28 | ★★★ Hardcore Parkour
8m right of Cognition. Up to ledge, then follow pillar to the unrelenting rail. No forgiveness for the unrepentant. FFA: Chris Glastonbury, 2013 | 24m, 13 | Frederick Peak | ||
28 | ★★ Spitfire Direct
Straight up the white streak FFA: Steven Ioannou, 2 Oct 2020 | 17m | Castle Hill | ||
27 | Medieval Mystique
First 3 bolts of OOAL then traverse L on roof lip. Power up heinous crimps to glory jugs above. FFA: Chris Beric, 2013 | 15m, 9 | Frederick Peak | ||
27 | Social Distancing
Start 2m right of "Gone in 60 Seconds" on 3 ring bolts then followed by 5 plates. This had to get completed eventually. Set: Douglas Hockley FFA: Glen Hayford, 12 Apr 2020 | 8 | Mt Stuart | ||
28 | ★★ Gatekeeper
Branch L off Spookeye p1. Find the key to the stopper start and be rewarded with brilliant pockets. FFA: Steven Ioannou, 5 Jul 2020 | 30m | Castle Hill | ||
27 | ★★★ Kneebar Nexus
King line up crazy steep wall and brilliant jugs. Up scoop to jug pillar, then R and straight up featured fringe of looming RH Trench. Remember your kneebar pads! FFA: Chris Beric/Steve Ioannou, 2012 | 23m, 14 | Frederick Peak | ||
27 | ★ Mr Crumble
Start 4m R of HANDIOTNZ at the closed seam. Good holds lead up the face to a hard move at the overlap. Over this and steeply up the face above to the rings. Set: Matt Brooks, Mar 2018 FA: Steven Ioannou & Chris Beric, 15 May 2020 | 10m, 7 | Castle Hill | ||
28 | ★★ Portrait
Start as "Gone in 60 Seconds" then trend left at the FH half way up. FFA: Glen Hayford, 24 Jun 2018 | 27m, 10 | Mt Stuart | ||
27 | ★★ Sound Awake
1
23
22m
2
23
15m
3
20
25m
4
27
12m
5
19
30m
A gloriously varied and fully bolted multipitch passing the iconic 'Saint' high above Alias Wall. Outstanding climbing on the fourth and fifth pitches. Take 16 quickdraws.
Scramble up to tourist lookout (watch for broken glass) or abseil back down with a 60m rope. | 100m, 5 | Castle Hill | ||
27 | ★★ Burnt Ice
Start as for WG but head straight up and onto the slab. Climb through the unrelenting steepness on pinches and jugs to join the last bolt of AD. FFA: Steve Ioannou, 2013 | 16m, 11 | Frederick Peak | ||
27 | ★ Hillbilly Heroin
Start 20m down and R of BJ below the insanely steep prow. A few moves up the face then boulder R out onto the prow. Follow this before breaking the lip to the anchors. Back jump to clean. Set: Matt Brooks, 5 Jun 2018 FA: Matt Brooks, 12 Jun 2018 | 15m, 9 | Frederick Peak | ||
27 | ★★ Hacked!
Start as for Sliced for the first three bolts. Stem start, then pucker up and step over to arete sharing anchors with Chopped. FFA: Jack Heenan, 9 Sep 2021 | 14m, 8 | The Kitchen | ||
27 | Bucket Jukebox Extension
Berics Project. Links "Bucket Jukebox" into "The Appropriate Opiate". | 30m | Frederick Peak | ||
28 | ★★ Perspectives
Straight up after the 2 bolts to get on the starting ledge of Rampage. FFA: Steven Ioannou | Frederick Peak | |||
27 | ★★★ The Appropriate Opiate
As for Skyfall the R and dynamically hurl through the steepness with a tricky finish. FFA: Chris Glastonbury, 2013 | 30m, 16 | Frederick Peak | ||
28 | ★★ Diminishing Returns
The bolts just to the L of Vice Grip. FFA: Steven Ioannou, 17 Jun 2018 | 18m | Frederick Peak | ||
27 | ★ Activated Nut
Set: Steve Ioannou, 2013 FFA: Steve Ioannou, 2014 | 28m, 14 | Frederick Peak | ||
28 | Vice Grip
Starting a few metres right of Neurofriend. FFA: Steven Ioannou, 2018 | 18m | Frederick Peak | ||
27 | ★★★ Stark Raven
Set: Steve Ioannou, 2013 FFA: Steve Ioannou, Chris Beric & Chris Glastonbury, 2013 | 20m, 11 | Frederick Peak | ||
27 | ★★★ Mad Hatter
Set: Chris Glastonbury, 2013 FFA: Chris Glastonbury, 22 Aug 2014 | 25m, 15 | Frederick Peak | ||
27 | ★★★ Calamity Clam
The oblivious steep rib in the middle of the cave. Set: Graham Page & Chris Glastonbury FFA: Chris Glastonbury & Steve Ioannou, 1 Aug 2014 | 20m, 10 | Frederick Peak | ||
27 | ★★★ Beast From The Deep
The crag classic, stick with the mank start as the rock gets vastly better by the third bolt. Great endurance climbing with a powerful finish. Set: Chris Glastonbury FFA: Chris Glastonbury, 26 Aug 2014 | 17m, 12 | Frederick Peak | ||
27 | ★★★ The 27 Club
Starting left of "The 28 Club" and starting with nice boulderish moves followed by a pockety/juggy traverse that leads into a fun crux with decent holds. Holds may be wet and slimy after heavy rain. Set: Chris Glastonbury, 2012 FFA: Chris Glastonbury & Steve Ioannou, 17 Aug 2014 | 20m, 12 | Frederick Peak | ||
28 | ★★ Clementine
Set: Chris Glastonbury, 2012 FFA: Christopher Glastonbury & Steven Ioannou, 12 Nov 2016 | 15m, 9 | Frederick Peak | ||
28 | Happyland
FFA: Kat Damjanovic, 26 Jul 2018 | 25m | Frederick Peak | ||
27 | ★★ On Another Planet
The photogenic orange arete with two boulders separated by classic technical moves. FFA: Steven Ioannou & Kat Damjanovic, 24 Jul 2022 | 26m | Mt Stuart | ||
28 | ★★★ Escape Plan
FFA: Steve Ioannou, 14 Sep 2014 | 25m, 16 | Frederick Peak | ||
28 | The 28 Club
Set: Steven Ioannou, 2014 FFA: Steven Ioannou, 7 Mar 2015 | 20m, 14 | Frederick Peak | ||
28 | ★★ Caught Red Handed
Access via 35m rap from bolts above Lionsgate. Exceptionally steep and pumpy by Stuart standards. FFA: Steven Ioannou & Kat Damjanovic, 9 Oct 2022 | 28m | Mt Stuart | ||
27 | ★★ Calamity Clam VF
FFA: Steven Ioannou & Chris Beric, 11 Jul 2015 | 22m, 11 | Frederick Peak | ||
28 | ★★★ Decrepit Dinosaur
DS to OMF flowing through a variety of interesting sequences. FFA: Steven Ioannou & Kat Damjanovic, 25 Aug 2022 | 25m | Frederick Peak | ||
28 | ★★★ Highly Illogical
FFA: Steven Ioannou & Kat Damjanovic, 4 Jun 2023 | 28m | Mt Stuart | ||
27 | ★★★ Through The Never
FFA: Chris Beric & Steve Ioannou, 28 Aug 2015 | 17m, 12 | Frederick Peak | ||
28 | Beast Within
FFA: Steven Ioannou, 28 Aug 2015 | 21m, 14 | Frederick Peak | ||
27 | ★ Logistical Nightmare
3m R of CRH. Tough boulder though the initial steepness then continuous climbing up the flakey wall. FFA: Kat Damjanovic & Steven Ioannou, 26 May 2023 | 25m | Mt Stuart | ||
28 | ★★ Sharktooth
Set: Chris Beric, Aug 2015 FFA: Steven Ioannou, 14 Aug 2015 | 18m, 11 | Frederick Peak | ||
27 | ★★ 10,000 Noobs
Break left 10m up Spitfire through a tricky bulge and featured face above. FFA: Steven Ioannou & Kat Damjanovic, 31 Oct 2020 | 25m | Castle Hill | ||
28 | ★★ Raise The Kraken
FFA: Chris Beric & Steven Ioannou, 29 Jun 2016 | 19m, 12 | Frederick Peak | ||
Boulder | |||||
V7 | The Campground Project
Tiny arete from a sit. FA: MS | Harvey’s Marbles | |||
V7 | ★★ Ripped Nips
Sit start on pair of jugs at base of arete. Obvious block is OUT. Move up arete using RH sloper rail and LH sidepulls, big move to good edge to top out. FA: Glen Hayford, 29 Jul 2017 | 3m | Sunny Bay | ||
V7 | ★★ Selfish Contemplation
Up the middle of the face, short and hard. Previously known as the mono project that Live Lundemo came very close to. FA: Glen Hayford, 5 Apr 2022 | 4m | Harvey’s Marbles | ||
V7 | ★★ Too Many Slopers SS
Sit-start going left to join the start of “Too Many Slopers”. Now contrived and superseded by Alister's beta “Too Many Slopers Direct” but cool enough to include here. FA: Steve Baskerville | Harvey’s Marbles | |||
V7 | ★★★ Belly of the Beast
Sit start (may need to stack a pad) under clean overhung face, compressing on wide pair of small edges. Move up compression moves to good blocky feature and finish as for Carcharodon. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 22 Jun 2017 | 4m | Sunny Bay | ||
V7 | The Testicle Mantle Low Start
The low start to The Testicle Mantle. Done with RH on edge and low LH pinch. FA: SB | Harvey’s Marbles | |||
V7 | Jehoshaphat
Right-hand side of wall. Up, with a terrible undercling and a small mono to start. FA: Spenser Tang-Smith | Harvey’s Marbles | |||
V7 | ★★★ Epitome of a Man
FA: Spencer Tang Smith | 5m | Harvey’s Marbles | ||
V7 | ★★ The Dark Side of The Moon
Sit start under overhang with good left pinch and high right edge. Hard move to slot, then gain unique features on slab and topout into fern opening. FA: Callum Mather Set: Jared Tyerman | 4m | Barron Gorge | ||
V7 | ★★★ Any Way But Steve's Way
Start in middle of face with low edges, moving up and left to a tough finish. Face was uncovered after a large fire destroyed a tree in front of the face. FA: Dan Radford | Harvey’s Marbles | |||
V7 | $10.80 Worth Of Tape
That is how much it cost Dan Radford to do the second ascent. Up from edges to slopes and mantle. FA: Madoc Sheehan | Harvey’s Marbles | |||
V7 | Pulled Muscle Tendon
Start as for “Monster of Rock”, only takes the low traverse option after the first few moves. Big sideways move off the huge flake to small edges, then to jug. From jug continue as for “Monster of Rock”. FA: Madoc Sheehan, 2002 | Harvey’s Marbles | |||
V7 | ★★ The Roadview Classic
| 3m | Harvey’s Marbles | ||
V7 | Stone Moves
FFA: Mike Maddox | Magnetic Island | |||
V7 | ★ Subtle Manipulation
The high slab on the opposite side of “Fall From Grace”. Work through the low scoop and then up onto a balancy top. | Harvey’s Marbles | |||
V7 | Pinch and a Punch
Hard right most line of holds. Use none of the holds from LS except the 2 sit start holds and topout jug. All sharp edges (and one ultra micro). Jared Tyerman (Attempts & beta) FA: Callum Mather Set: Jared Tyerman | 3m | Trinity Beach | ||
V6/7 | ★ Destruction of Property
FA: Glen Hayford, 2018 | 3m | Castle Hill | ||
V7 | Little Lefties
A reference to the holds rather than a swipe at any particular political preference! Sit-start off the block (or crouched start) into above problem. Starts with low right-hand sidepull. Technical and crimpy. FA: Steve Baskerville, 2004 | Harvey’s Marbles | |||
V7 | Gladiator
Start low on crimp right of the arete and wobbly crimp just left of arete. Traverse left on small edges before mantling and finishing up the slab. FA: Callum Mather Set: Jared Tyerman | 6m | Trinity Beach | ||
V7 | ★★★ Hard wood | 3m | Barron Gorge | ||
V7 | B
Technical | Harvey’s Marbles | |||
V7 | Rail Supercomplete
FA: Steve Baskerville | Harvey’s Marbles | |||
V7 | Star Power
L of “Curved Arête” SS off edge on low boulder. | Harvey’s Marbles | |||
V7 | ★★★ Tiny Dancer
Start low on right undercling and small left crimp. Move up to the sloper and finish as for Rocket Man. FA: Callum Mather, 12 Nov 2020 | North Wangetti | |||
V7 | Deforestation
FA: Tully Rohrer | Harvey’s Marbles | |||
V7 | ★★★ Walk The Phat Line
The low start of Walk The Line adds about 4 tough moves. Starting holds - RH crimp, low LH undercling. FA: Nick Larsen | Harvey’s Marbles | |||
V7 | ★★ Turkish Delight
Start straddling the tree and follow the thin, overhanging flake left to a slopey finish. Watch the block that makes the landing awkward. FA: Nick Larsen | Harvey’s Marbles | |||
V7 | ★★★ Whale Tale
Stand start on double gastons, move through the black and gold streak on small crimps. Gain the arete and finish as for Tall Tales. FA: Callum Mather | 8m | Fitzroy Island | ||
V7 | Sidewinder
Just R of “Best in Show” Start off bad RH sidepull and high LH edge. Up to obvious cluster of small edges then move L and up. FA: Madoc Sheehan, 2002 | Harvey’s Marbles | |||
V7 | ★★★ Doomsday
Stand start matched on jug, follow line of holds up and out of the hole via big committing move. Rock behind is very dabbable, controlling the swing is a great lesson in core movement. Landing needs rebuilding after floods. FA: Callum Mather | 4m | Barron Gorge | ||
V7 | Sly Fly
Sit-start to “Sly Boy”. May be a crouched start if you can't reach the holds from the ground. Starts off the small edge and slopey sidepull located together. Up to bad holds and up slab. FA: Steve Baskerville, 2002 | Harvey’s Marbles | |||
V7 | ★★ Bleeding edge
From the jugs, throw big to the tiny slanting crimps. Crank and commit to the easier slab finish. FA: John Newby, 2015 | Magnetic Island | |||
V7 | ★★ Stitch 'n Bitch
Start on the little cairn to reach the seam and up. FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 2013 | 3m | Harvey’s Marbles | ||
V7 | Comfortably Numb
Sit-start on obvious holds. Straight up to a tough finish. FA: Madoc Sheehan | Harvey’s Marbles | |||
V7 | Escape
Start as for "Bum Crack Sit Start", only go up and across diagonally left to finish up as for "Harry Houdini's Hand Holds", via a tough and thin traverse. FA: Steve Baskerville, 2003 | Harvey’s Marbles | |||
V7 | ★★★ Pie Face
The gently bulging face on the Middle Brother, the shortest of the three boulders. A highball on perfect granite. It starts with steep and powerful moves off a chunky, in-cut flake, followed by a series of vertical cranks on small but positive edges, which guard the crux mantle onto a slopey narrow rail at two-thirds height. Blankness and weirdness above the rail gets you to a thin seam just below the more amenable top-out. It's one of Harvey's aesthetic highball jewels. FFA: Andy Lampard, 2016 | 7m | Harvey’s Marbles | ||
V7 | ★★★ The Five Year Cigar
Very tall, proud arête and a magnum opus. Sometimes there are some wasps on the right face, so be careful. FFA: Rob Saunders, 2004 | Harvey’s Marbles | |||
V7 | ★★ Magic Mirror
Start wide with RH on the start hold of Reflections and LH on a small scoopy crimp. Contort your way into and finish as for Reflections. FA: Callum Mather | 3m | Barron Gorge | ||
V6/7 | Doctor's Orders
Overhung wall 5 metres to the left of “Porcelain”. | Harvey’s Marbles | |||
V6/7 | Lovely Legs Low
Low crouched start off RH sidepull and little LH sloper. Up and across into Lovely Legs. FA: SB | Harvey’s Marbles | |||
V7 | ★ Civil Unrest
Start matched on the low rail, straight up through board style goodness. FA: Callum Mather | 3m | Barron Gorge | ||
V7 | Eric The Viking
| Harvey’s Marbles | |||
V7 | Extend The Grain
Start a little further left on the little crimps and link into Against The Grain. Soft. FA: SB | Harvey’s Marbles | |||
V7 | ★★★ Dark Crystal
Walk up the water falls from the bridge. At the 3rd rock pool is an overhanging shaded block. The central line is it. Set: Ben Eichler & Bredon Abernathy, 2007 | Paluma & Hidden Valley | |||
V7 | ★★ Balisong
Sit start with good edge and small side pull. Up the arete on crimps, with crux revolving around the sharp edge on the face. Access via minor clearing at big loose rock sign near very first carpark. FA: Callum Mather | 4m | Barron Gorge |