Routes in Middle Sector

Left of “All Gas, No Brakes”. Stand start with your choice of crimps and get schwifty.

Stand start the blunt arete right of Clever Creatures. Rh high mono sloper, Lh on small highcrimp. Could possible start lower on bad compression holds. Up the blankness to mantle.

Half cleaned.

Oliver Rickford

Right side of pink bits slab, staying off arete. Nice moves.

Stand start Lh small pizza crimp, Rh on slopey arete crimp.

The high slab on the boulder directly facing All or Nothing. Start up vertical seam then up and left to a high topout. One of the best problems anywhere.

Sit start this unique looking problem, unlocking a way upwards.

Kieran Pates

Overhanging Bulge provides a good mantling challenge. Found facing away from the access road on the backside of “Bitter” bloc.

1. Start to the left under the bulge standing on rock.

2. Use left side and under the bulge.

3. Ledge on top of bulge.

4. Mantle to win.

5. Top out is easy from there.

Descent: Exit to your right hand side, downclimb steps/ledges.

Video: https://www.instagram.com/p/Btpuq1ABt6o/

Climb the perfect finger crack using locks and lie back technique. Located uphill of boulder #19 as listed in the Peter Crane topo.

Stand start the LH sharp arete. Big move to a good hold and straight up to a positive finish

Stand start on juggy flake on the left side of the dish, straight up.

First route done at Passchendaele.

To the left of Pink Bits. Stand start with LH fang and RH sidepull. A very long move up and leftwards! Very reach dependant. * Has not been repeated since two large flakes have been removed*

Front face of BOTB

Up the easy slab.

Up the obvious crack.

Start on good holds. Traverse right along the lip then mantle the ledge and climb to the top of the boulder.

Stand start the vertical runnel feature, moving right after the crack (with potential fist jams). *You may need a ladder to get down and be cool

Sit start the left side of the brown vertical face, on side pull and gaston. Technical climbing, to an airy mantle. Take care using the tree to get down.

Stand start down the gully with crimps in the horizontal flake feature. Traverse left joining into “Capital of Cool”.

Get technical and some wind up there, on the predominant Arete. Cleaned and scrubbed on one of the windiest days. Start on the left side of the arete with the big sidepull feature and move across right to the arete and up.

Stand start with choice of thin crimps. An array of holds and engaging moves, define this technical face.

In the words of the genre-bending Canadian indie rock band Arcade Fire, ‘wake up.’ Stand start as for “Pucker up”. After the vertical crack, gaining the jug half way- move straight up to thin edges (instead of going left) - topping out directly upwards.

Stand start on good crimps on right side of boulder, traverse diagonally left and retreat down via adjacent boulder.

Stand start the arete with high RH in large pocket and LH face height on arete pinch. The large flake footer is out

Sit start the right arete with a high LH side pull and low undercling. Straight up!

A delicate yet strong, slab test piece at the grade. Stand start matched on the crimp rail. When in doubt, use your feet.

Crouch start on lowest good crimps terrible feet. Work to top rail and begin traverse around bulge to the slab face using asthetic diagonal crimp rails continue around to the far left to decent ledge for top out.

Squat start with sandy good holds on the mound, straight up to a long move. Ascend the ramp, up and over the next bloc above.

Right of 'Match Fit' - start on generous undercling, throw for good holds and continue up.

In the “alley” directly behind “Burn Out” Boulder. Stand start at the start of the crack, and up and over the bulge.

Stand start next to the small boulder with crimps. Traverse right across good holds to finish up “6 Dogs” arete.

Jump start to the high crimp. campus your way up to the pocket and from there get your feet back on and top out. Short and powerful! Crazy idea by Zach Tesiram which worked nicely

Ascend the obvious open book corner and crack. Careful with the fern growing out of the crack up high

Mantle into the scoop and make your way up and over the left side of the boulder.

Tap into your inner zen on this beautiful slab, fondling the small nipple-like features on your way through to an exciting topout!

Peter Crane's boulder that starts at the jug for "Ride the Saddle, Extended" but goes to the right, along the seam.

Same start as Martial Arts, mantle into the scoop and wrestle the horizontal crack around the boulder.

On the smallest boulder of the three making the 'cave', make your way up the left side avoiding touching the giant boulder to the left.

Stand start with obvious side pull, compressing the arete. When the blankness hits, think “light” thoughts.

Stand start the rippled face with slopey edges. Straight up finished as “KPK”

Left of TSN

Opposite “Edges of Mercy” on the pink Boulder. Stand start with the high juggy rail, straight up and out to Freedom.

Sit start left of D.A with crimps and a right heel on. Traverse left along the low ball arete until you reach the juggy rail on the peak and mantle out.

Slow down, chill out and pump the brakes. Stand start with crimps and move up to an engaging mantle.

Unlock the puzzling sequence rising up through the center of the pyramid. Keep your game face on for the top out and pray your spotters don't run for cover!

Avoids the hard start of “Slab Life Project”- by starting on the right leaning feature - climbing the arete. Once the arete finishes moves left and finish straight up.

Needs a re-grade as most of the problem is on the ground now- if there is even a problem here anymore

To NE of Hidden In Plain View, between slopey rocks and face with cracks. Up obvious crack and up lodged, juggy rock slices.

The starting rail doesn’t exist anymore as of 2023.

Backside of Pink Bits Boulder. Stand start with high right foot and holds, moving right up up the low angle slab.

Cheeky little one-move wonder. Start on the two nice crimps to the right of Twas once the way down and zahoot your way up to the slopey ledge above. Cruisy top out for your efforts.

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CyN8MfuLR7q/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Stand start left side pull right two pad sloper to crimpy jug then slab to glory. FFA Issy Jukes.

Stand-start this ‘must do’ semi-high ball, with small holds and crystals for feet in the centre on the rippled, mossy slab facing the road, close to Blue Moon.

Stand start with horizontal crack and improbable feet. A very reachy move straight up

Stand start on Arete left of Clever creatures.

Stand start with use of the detached rock, with high crimps and figure out the puzzle up the cool cracked, bulgy face to a committing, intense mantle. Thoughtful stacking of pads are needed for the tilted landing.

Stand start either left hand side pull and right hand crimp or left hand crimp and right hand mono on terrible feet.

The obvious crack

In the cave, right side of the slab. Just right of 'Overlord'.

Start as for 'Hellbows' but head up with some sneaky beta and then left across some chossy crimps before getting reach solid rock again. Easy top out from there.

A contrived mega dyno for those who want an extra challenge, For this one it’s the same as The Warped Wall but this time considerably harder as the side pull is out for the start. Go straight to the jug.

Feel free to use the sloper to top out once you’ve sent the epic first move. Once again top out if you want. Adds nothing but is really really satisfying

Up obvious crack to R of the convenient bail-tree into engaging climbing with good hands and fists. Good intro to jamming.