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Rawnsley Bluff
Rawnsley Bluff is a cliff that forms part of Wilpena Pound in Flinders Ranges National Park. |
Moonlight Buttress
Located in Flinders Ranges National Park. |
Moonlight Buttress |
11
★ Sweet Surrender
2m L of AFBPS. Corner, chimney, wiggle around the roof. Nice. |
15
★ Another Fat Bush Pig Scenario
Climb the wall 2m L of Tas. Penetrate a weakness at the overhang to finish in a thin crack. |
12
★ Tas
The shallow corner and crack 3m L of Moonlet to a bushy ledge at 12m. Finish up the L face. |
7
★ Moonlet
Up the vague crackline 2m L of SOL, passing just L of the roof at 4m, to a triangular summit block |
19
Satellite of Love
Up the broken crackline 1m L of the chimney, passing R of a V-shaped roof, to finish on the face just R of the arête. Use the block on the R for a cam placement only, or ignore it completely and place an RP a little higher (Michael Hartman and Colin Reece may have climbed a route near here in 1997). |
11
Poor Pluto
Face between arete L of TRDNEIAL and the chimney. |
16
This Route Does Not Exist in Any Language
10m L of KTBATHWD. Climb through the roof, place a cam, move up, place another, then layback up and L to the arête. Grab a jug and run it out to to the top. |
13
★ Kill the Body and the Head will Die
9m L of Re- entry. The arête between the black chimney and the weathered scoop, tending R at the top. |
2
Re-entry
Easy access route. Scramble the joint crack come chimney. There is a bushy ledge 5m below the top. |
17
Inner Space
L of LTUAE. Fun with fists. Take two or three #4 cams. If not, two 10cm tubes and some RPs. |
20
Life, the Universe and Everything
7m L of OB, around the arête. Sensational climbing. Diagonal crack and flake to a ledge then the thin crack. |
12
★ Ozone Baby
The corner. |
24
★★ Armstrong
A mixture of mandatory jamming and face climbing on lovely red rock. Takes the obvious right-leaning crackline behind the tree stump, near the left-hand end of Red Dwarf wall. Climb the crack, then climb straight to the gaps between the blocks at the top. Same finish as Echo Base. |
25
★★ Echo Base
Starts directly in front of the big block at the base of the wall, 2m R of Armstrong's obvious crackline. Follow the left leaning line, finishing out through the slot at the top. |
22
★★★ Bad Moon Rising
Direct line 2m L of Red Dwarf, just R of center of red wall. Finish L of block. |
23
★★ Red Dwarf
Direct line on red wall 3m L of EOTH. Finish to the L of the summit block. |
14
★ Eclipse of the Heart
The fourth, wider crack. |
15
★★ Atlas
The third crack, straight and clean. |
15
★★ This Route Cannot Be Uttered by the Human Mouth
The second crack. Steep for 5m then easier. |
14
★ Moonstone
The corner 4m L of GS, then around the roof formed by the 'magic' perched block. Continue up the crack. |
18
★★ Cometary Debris
Begin as for GS, but continue through the overhang. Step L around a suspicious boulder and finish up the crack. |
22
★ Getting Sirius
Up the crack L of the arête for 3m, then around the arête and climb the face near the thin crack. Hard to place wires and cams. Double ropes. |
19
★ Moonquake
The arête with one brief detour onto the R face. Two small loose blocks at half height. |
19
Space Disaster
Takes the superb wall L of BM. Place nuts as side runners at 5m. Begin in a niche at ground level and head straight up to the crux. Finish in the crack. |
12
★ Blue Moon
The big corner. |
14
★★ What Are Friends For?
Straight up the clean finger crack 2m R of the big corner. |
19
Keep Ya Hands High Son
Located in Flinders Ranges National Park. |
13
★ This Route Cannot Be Pronounced
A plumb line incorporating the corner of ANAT. |
12
Apocalypse Now and Then
Begin 3m L of WDB. Ledge, corner, ledge, jamb crack. |
14
★ What Drop Bear?
Up the small corner 1m L of LM, then through a small overhang to an easy angled crack. |
20
Lunar Module
Start 2m L of SO. R onto wall, then attack the overhang at the convenient crack. Saunter on. |
18
Square Orbit
Begin 3m L of the arête. Up for 3m, then R to a desperate weakness leading to a ledge. Wander over the back and climb a relatively easy corner. |
6
Jovial
The L crack on the scrappy wall L of the debris. |
19
★★ Methane Rain
The wall 2m L of Jupiter to a ledge at 4m. Ignore the (surprisingly tricky) steps on the L and continue up the crack. Small wires and cams. |
19
★ Jupiter
An offwidth struggle 3m L of Artemis. Big cams, tubes to 15cm. |
18
Artemis
Fist crack and wider 4m L of Kanyaka. Big hexes, #4 cams, tubes to 15cm. |
13
Kanyaka
The chimney crack with brief difficulties 5m L of DIS. Tubes / big hexes, cams. |
17
Damons in Space
The clean corner crack 2m L of FL. |
16
Flying Lessons
The hand crack 7m L of the shattered flake. Through the bulge and on. |
11
★★ Starry Night
The corner/chimney, the R wall of which is the 10m-high shattered flake. Finish straight up. |
16
Over the Moon
The chimney 15m L of MS. Tubes protect the first 12m. Some loose rock. |
9
Moonlight Sonata
The chimney 2m L of GCTMT. |
18
Ground Control to Major Tom
The finger crack L of LT. Through a bulge then on to easier ground past a bush. |
19
Lunar Tick
Begin 8m L of LO and 4m R of GCTMT. A bulgy start leads to a short R facing corner and a rest on a ledge. |
21
★★★ Lift Off
At R end of crag. Up to roof at 5m, move L with difficulty, weave up interesting wall. |
13
Crack In The Portal
The boulder 15m R of the R end of Moonlight Buttress. |
The Dark Side
The Dark Side faces south-east, so is great for a hot summer's day, but can get very cold in winter. There is a variety of single-pitch climbing on reasonably compact orange quartzite. |
The Dark Side |
South East Upper Tier
There are no known access issues, but the area is relatively untouched, so treat it with respect. Try and avoid damaging vegetation, and set up an abseil after the first climb, to avoid trampling vegetation on top of the cliff. |
The Dark Side South East Upper Tier |
Giant's Foot Buttress
This is the first buttress you reach when you go around the corner from Moonlight Buttress. |
The Dark Side South East Upper Tier Giant's Foot Buttress |
18
★★ The Cascades of Guinness
Climbs the crack in the middle of the wall. Up the blocky cracks to a ledge at 5m. Launch up the thin crack and left to a large ledge at 15m. Traverse right along the ledge for 2m to the continuation of the crack, and onto a large ledge below a large overhanging jammed block. Straight up over the block to glory. Good pro. There is an alternative route from the second ledge - left, and up a corner. This is easier, but less direct, and doesn't affect the route grade. |
18
Saw
Mount the easy bulge then climb the first face using horizontals and triangular pockets to gain a ledge. Climb the second face and then a third face passing through the middle of the two dominant triangular projections. |
19
★★ Fallen Sentinel
Follow the obvious line 2/3 the way up before moving left around a mostly blank face before heading back right to the crack with the boulder in the top. (Conquering the face has the potential to be a great project!) |
13
Thrash Compactor
Pikers variant of Wind From Above. Follow the corner to the squeezy cave at the top and climb out before you are compacted or eaten by the dianoga. |
16
★ Wind From Above
Scrappy climbing leads to engaging jamming sequence. Finish at the final tunnel. |
The Dark Side South East Upper Tier |
Millenium Buttress
This is the next buttress along from Giant's Foot. |
The Dark Side South East Upper Tier Millenium Buttress |
17
Millenium Pigeon
Follow the discontinuous crack in the middle of the face to the top. |
The Dark Side South East Upper Tier |
Stomtrooper Sector
The series of gullies, faces and walls after Millenium Buttress |
The Dark Side South East Upper Tier Stomtrooper Sector |
21
★★ Calmer Suture
You need a settled approach to stitch this up. Being good in bed may help. Take the obvious crack line to a hole, then branch right up the face over the small overlap, up the shallow corner and straight over the overhang at the top. Continue to the top of the buttress. |
13
Nerfherder
Climb the large corner to the right of 'Calmer Suture' all the way to the top. |
22
★★ Cold War Arms Race
Follows the obvious left trending crack on the face 10m right of Calmer Suture. Rise up and assume a difficult stance. Once gained, turn hard left and persist despite increasing difficulty. When you’re as left as possible, drive head-on into the inevitable struggle. Enjoy a period of relative calm before the final difficulty creates some internal battles. |
15
Short For A Stormtrooper
Head up the easy corner and steer up the left edge of the top bulge for a slightly harder finish. Short but sweet. |
The Dark Side South East Upper Tier |
Jabba Sector
There are no known access issues, but the area is relatively untouched, so treat it with respect. Try and avoid damaging vegetation, and set up an abseil after the first climb, to avoid trampling vegetation on top of the cliff. |
The Dark Side South East Upper Tier Jabba Sector |
15
★ Te Deum
Not TeDiuM, actually quite nice. Climb the blocks to the hand crack, then climb the crack to the top. |
19
★★ Garth Vader
There is still good in him yet. Start in the obvious corner as per Learning to Fly, break left at the roof and traverse under the lovely jambs. Pull on to the wall above and savour the glorious face climbing with fantastic gear. |
25
★★ Learning to Fly
Start in the obvious corner below the stepped roof, break right and launch through the stepped rooves on the right with long moves up to the ‘morgue’, harder moves lead to easier ground and the final thin corner. |
20
★★ Do Or Do Not, There Is No Try
There are no known access issues, but the area is relatively untouched, so treat it with respect. Try and avoid damaging vegetation, and set up an abseil after the first climb, to avoid trampling vegetation on top of the cliff. |
12
Boga
Corner climbing. Right of do or do not. |
20
★★ Got Any Blacker
Obvious line through the middle of the wall R of Boga. Wider jambing initially leads to lovely hands, arrange your gear before the crack peters out below the sloping narrow ledge, slight traverse left then up the glorious finger crack. |
23
★★ Jabba
Start at Jabba’s feet and ooze through the rolls, reach out to the white fingers on the right of the roof then follow the arête and cracks above. |
22
★★★ The Sith
If you do one route here make it this one! Immortal. Through the middle of the overhanging face with a bit of everything. Sting in the tail at the final seam. |
18
★★ Return of the Jedi
Start as for the Sith. At half height resist the temptation of the dark side (the direct finish), use the force to gain the right trending crack. |
20
Monkey Face
Start at the lowest point just right of the pine against the face. The rounded arete transitions to acute and then to obtuse. Stay off the faces. |
16
Dark Ambition
You had to be quick to get the first ascent on the dark side. Start at the obvious crack below the large block on a ledge, over and around this through the crack above. A fillip awaits where you least expect it. |
The Dark Side South East Upper Tier |
PatO Sector
This area is characterised by a Heart-shaped block at 3/4 height, which marks the route "PatO your heart" |
The Dark Side South East Upper Tier PatO Sector |
21
★ Midnight Buffet
Corner around arete and into corner above, variation up corner with frightening looking detached plates and no useful gear. |
22
★★★ Exploding Galaxies
Stellar climbing with an audacious move up the arete to the hanging corner above. Start as per Talon in the chimney then break left to the obvious white jug. Place your gear then head out to the arete. Hidden key placement left of the arete (#3 stopper) in small crack. Immortal. |
21
★★ Talon
Fused crack and R facing shallow corner through blocks and large flake above, start up chimney in corner then step left into line. |
15
Bowling Alley
Obvious chimney with chock stones. The first is a cracker! |
17
★★★ PatO, your heart
Obvious crack with Y at top, step into R fork then back left through breaks to top. |
10
★ Solo And The Wookie
Blocky corner with twin parallel cracks and ledge at half way, finger crack above (soloed and then it got hairy) |
The Dark Side South East Upper Tier |
The Corners
This sector looks a bit looser than those either side, but is still quite good. |
The Dark Side South East Upper Tier The Corners |
14
★★ Scrubs Up Well
Up bulging hand crack with plentiful gear. The crack line L of Heart of Stone. |
23
★★ Heart of Stone
Up the hand crack, over the heart shaped block, take a breath on the ledge, then launch up the thin seam to the top. |
20
★★ That's no Moon
Left around the corner from 'Hyperdrive'. Take the crack just left of the roof to the second horizontal above the roof, then traverse 4m right over the roof to a metre before the arete. Launch straight up the face following the line of weakness, to the top. |
18
★★ Hyperdrive
Start as per Dos Cabras Negras for 4m then traverse left towards arete with a series of cracks left of the red section. Follow your nose gloriously to the top. |
17
★★ Dos Cabras Negras
Named after the audience at the top. Follow the lovely consistent line on the left of the face. |
17
The Biggest Loser
The crack 2m right of DCN |
16
★★ The Sound of One Cheek Clapping
Left arete of grey slab with gear in the left wall where it is run out. Through the obvious hand crack in the middle of the slab above. |
19
★★★ Stars In My Eyes
Right hand arete. Arrange 000 and 0.2 cams in slot on left and micro offset wires in horizontal on right arete, equalising both. spectacular and intricate moves to negotiate bulge them finish as per the sound on one cheek clapping. |
17
Tribunal
Start on the ledge, and head up the main zig-zagy crack to the left of Blood Moon. |
19
Blood Moon
Climb the corner and pass the fist block to gain the short second corner. Pass the roof on the right to gain the ledge and then climb the face on your left through the wide scoop. |
18
★ Judge me by my size, do you?
Climb the shallow poorly protected corner to a small roof, go left around the roof and continue up the groove to a large ledge. Climb the middle of the 4m face straight ahead. |
16
★ Interdictor
The climb follows a corner for a few metres. then branches out right onto the face and up a couple of discontinuous cracks. The climb starts just to the right of an obvious, square jutting block at half-height. |
19
★★ Sword of Damocles
Bouldering start to distinct corner with a loose-looking rock spike. Traverse up and left onto ledge with large block. Climb corner behind on wonderful holds to roof, traverse right onto ledge and up. |
The Dark Side South East Upper Tier |
Star Destroyer Buttress
This is the large buttress with the massive roof on climber's right. |
The Dark Side South East Upper Tier Star Destroyer Buttress |
16
★★ The Timocene
The obvious corner and chimney that converges with Convergent Evolution. Delightful climbing. |
19
★★ Convergent Evolution2
Up left trending cracks into corner at 6m with a spicy step across then corner/chimney and cracks in right face to top. |
24
★★ The Precambrian Shuffle
Start below the left hand side of Star Destroyer Buttress roof, climb up and traverse right over the roof, then up following the right hand line of holds, that lead to a shallow scoop and onto the arete. Finish as for 'Tensions on the Korean Peninsular'. |