Routes as trad in Australia

Climbs up the centre of the pillar just to the right of the large cave ending in a spectacular position on top of the pillar with great views to the Dam. To reach belay pull around lip of cave and traverse carefully across mossy wall to belay at base of left leaning corner. Climbs corner direct slinging tree at half height to juggy face above finishing on top of pillar. Downclimb easy face to rap off tree to clean.

Exit the key hole and climb down past rappel station, sticking to easy terrain.

Offwidth 5 meters right of French Crack. Part of the old descent route, usually abseiled but not always.

Not a bad excursion to the top of the Organ Pipes from the Tremulo anchor. Bear in mind that it is little-travelled so treat the rock with respect and be mindful of climbers below. It's not actually the original finish of Tremulo, which continued up the gully above the anchor, but the finish of Humouresque. The climbing can be split in a number of ways, with best ledges at 30m and 40m. Continue up left buttresses from anchors at top of pitch one of Tremulo, passing the MCC gnome high on the buttress. Walk off.

A direct finish on Bad Cheques, once you get to the obvious pocket before going right, head up left boldly via delicate slab moves to the hope of gear, which is marginal if you find it. once you get to the overlap head hard right to the Bad Cheques anchor.

Up the offwidth crack to the summit chockstone.

Up the corner with the thin seam and continue up the crack to the right of the trianglular rooflet. Belay off the chockstone, using the ancient tat if you dare!

An engaging little layback/offwidth crack located behind Adventure, for whos bolts you can belay off. Oh, if only it were twice the size.

Same as for STR, but start in the wider crack/chicken head.

A short climb up the right trending crack on the backside of the right side. Sling the triangle rock at the end of the crack, lean out and summit the nose feature. Belay off the crack a couple meters away from the edge.

Right of Choss Norris. Straight over the graffiti and up to the shrubbery at the top of the face. A surprisingly enjoyable little problem

West side of the creek. above the water fall. The most obvious wall with plenty of slingable blocks at the top for a toprope. Go straight up the middle following the obvious crack.

The far-right corner — if only it was 3x as long!

Deceptively tricky. 1m L of corner. Follow thin crack up until move right onto difficult ramp finish.

Face R of DCL. Tricky, committing start leads to easier climbing to the top. Stepping out right certainly lowers the grade.

Up obvious thin cracks and pockets, 2m R of Zymurgy. Up tricky crack to large pocket and up. Originally graded 15.

Absorbing face climbing on right leaning flakes, 1m R of TSB.

Start 1m R of BTSS at right-leaning flakes. Energetic face climbing up to big ledge. Set a belay and look for whales blowing (also great ledge for a bivvy if you want to stay the night). Pitch 2, straight up big pockets to top. The original belay boulder has been swept away, so belayer may require waders.

Blank looking face just R of JS. Delicate moves to thought provoking finish.

Major crack. Jump puddle to start up crack/ramp, to ledge and then up through easiest route to finish.

Prominent blank arete just R of major crack. (no pro).

Unbeknownst to most people, God had a seaside holiday before heading off to create Mt Arapiles. This climb is a testament to his creative abilities. The gem of Bittangabee, steep, strenuous, and sensational. 1m R of P3. Up right-leaning diagonal, straight up to finish on splitter crack on capstones.

2m R of Orange Ruffy. Up to letterbox slot, then line of least resistance to top, finishing left of major capstone.

Flake at left end. Up steep flake, finishing up slab.

1m R of RM, another Bittangabee delight. Up the jugs.

A few moves of interest just 1m R of AoR. Pulled out the old spoogie boreal aces for this one.

Up arete at start of PC. Fun arete with sensational no hands rest for those with long femurs.

2m L of BN. Straight up past major pocket, finding excellent slots on the way.

Face and using L arete, 1m L of P.

Shallow corner (boulder pictured has since been swept away) 1m L of HH.

2m R of NMB up to L undercling and up.

Delicate start to underclings and up.

1/2 m R of NMB. Boulder start to jugs and finish up left facing scoop to ledge and then up top wall on R. Very little pro.

Little L facing corner in centre of slab. Bouldery start then up delicate corner to thought provoking finish. Shy on pro.

Face 1.5m R of SP. Pumpy face climbing to ledge, continue through double overhangs with a tricky finish.

Up undercut flake corner to ledge then continue to top through two roofs.

1m R of ED. R leaning flakes to trick top out, steeper than it looks.

Main central crack up to pocket and finish.

First climb on Brave New Wall. Flake system at left side of wall. Good value for a short route.

Boulder moves up the steep arete, 2m R of Yosemite Corner.

Face and book corner just R of Yosemite Corner. (RPs Optional).

Flake line just R of YC.

2m R of Sedition. Delicately bridge through thought provoking corner up to steep top wall.

Committed approach, up faint crack then step right and follow weakness.

Absorbing climbing with lovely moves and a surprise finish. Straight up faint crack to ledge.

Climb the prominent crack to the top. Can be turned into an epic if you mix up your left and right.

Start as TRP, immediately step 1m R and delicately slab your way to nirvana, keeping out of the R crack for full value. Shy on pro.

Half metre right of TMW. Tread the path with care, euphoria awaits you at the top.

Let Buddha show you the way to enlightenment. From the face of Buddha, straight up.

First climb on Buddha Wall (small sloping wall fronted by perpetual puddle). Step onto wall at Buddha's face (clay stone pocket, whose features have now washed away). Trend left to top without using the major leftmost flake.

The corner crack finishing straight up. Reach the start by funky traverse in from the right end of puddle. Lose a star if you traverse in from the left.

Classic of the crag. The overhanging nature of this climb will leave a leader digging deep as you go for the top. Start on left and step onto wall over perpetual puddle, traverse right into line and follow face and flakes up to large horizontal. Move R to double threads and blast for the top.

L of WT. Delightful climbing requiring a tad of commitment. Aim for the dinner plate then finish up L facing corner and overlap.

Start at crack line at water's edge, and finish up left facing corner on R.

Face left of major corner LoF.

Has it all, gymnastic start leads to a delicate face capped with an overhanging finish. All in a short action packed 9 m.

Sketchy lead. No protection for 6m. Delicate, balancy, and plays with your head. Requires a good spotter. Finish up through fun overlaps.

Start up wide slot, and continue up crack.

Start up diagonal flake, step right around corner, and up crack. (Variant start for Coffin Slot).

Climb up roof crack with slab on right (crux) pull some steep sporty moves to the left above a nest of RP's then solo up grey headwall to trad anchor. Second pitch traverse bush bash with a fun move at the end. Both pitches need a bolt to make sane. 1 star climbing -1 star for lack of gear.

First crack at left hand end, just right of cavey section. Bouldery start leads to enjoyable climbing.

R of Sunday Outing, up chimney to ledge and follow seam to top.

Last crack before right corner. Bridge corner, pull onto wall, and follow crack to top. A deliciously pumpy excursion.

Climb corner and R face to roof. Plug the roof with cams on R allowing fear and trepidation to mount. Gather your gusto and with an air of expectancy, launch out to huge horizontal and up face to ledge with ever-decreasing jugs and thinning pro. Up to top.

Starts in the middle of the ledge above and right of the start of Innocence.

Juggy slab climbing trending left through 3 hangers, then through horizontal break (#3 or #4), then second break (#1) and finish up the last 4m of Innocence (optional #1).

Prominent overhanging flake feature, with a hard (bolt protected) boulder problem to gain the crack proper, and a bold finish up high.

Access via a short choss corner (2 bolts) and traverse right on a ledge to a single bolt belay below the main line.

Bring a double rack 0.3-4.

Named for both the nearby eyesore, and the god-tier hyperbole of some local crag police.

Monster roof crack, with easier moves than you might think -considering the steepness. A proper goal for any Blueys crack enthusiast.

Start up Big Boyce Blouse for 4 bolts to small stance (possible belay here), then blast upwards on gear through steepening terrain, with moves (and gear) getting more difficult as you go -culminating in a gnarly sequence at the end of the roof. 2 bolt anchor on ledge above crack, with an optional short pitch to top-out if you want.

Recommended gear is variable, as there are lots of options, placing the fiddly gear at the crux is hard, and there's a big difference between "preplaced gear" and "placing gear on lead." What follows is the FFA's gear list:

2 x 0.2; 2 x 0.3; 1 x 0.4, 1 x 0.5; 2 x 0.75; 1 x 1; 1 x 3; selection of small wires. An additional 0.4 is very useful for aiding or climbing on preplaced (but very hard to place on lead).

An adventurous route through unique and interesting terrain. Gets a star for the standout position of the line but loses some for rock quality. Start from the spooky ledge & climb inside the arching crack, the Belly of the Beast.

1. 20m (13) Climb up to the base of a arching crack and chimney up into the cave past a cluster of bail tat. Belay in cave near purple sling.

2. 30m (16) Up wall/crack then keep moving up the ramp along the cave. Carefully up corner crack and belay after topping corner.

3. 30m (15) Climb into next lip, boulder out the right side of the cave onto Tibro juggy slab, proceed up and left to the orange rock cave as for Overexposed.

4. 40m (16) Up corner in cave passing 2 PRs, on ledge continue up and left diagonally following broken crack system. Finish the pitch at the grassy gully. Typical tibro slab trad, small broken microcracks. Deserves an R .

Option to continue up overexposed by going right after the corner in cave on pitch 4. Highly recommended due to the free solo headspace provided by the lack of gear during the fourth pitch

Just like goodbyes, not all that pleasant. Shallow flaring double crack system into a chimney top. FA used a #7 as first piece, a #6 would go one move higher. Tree anchor.

Rap in as per "Everything must Trundle" - Dubbed Chomp my rope the FA pulled a flake off that chomped his rope. To the right of "EMT" when facing out from atop Lyell ledge you will find a nice foot deep ledge at head height, the start of this climb nestled in the shade of a tree. a very interesting technical climbed that had the FA moving left and right across the face going from ledge to ledge. tricky top out, don't pull on anything too hard.

Dangerous route, Rap in off tree to bottom - Standing atop Lyell ledge you find a gnarled tree with a boulder leaning against it. below this is excellent overhung face climbing. To the right of that on the corner of the face is this interesting, scary and ultimately trundled route. A couple more climbs might clean it up. Be very sure about your gear.

The slab route 1.5m left of Yabro(as of the crag), possibly could be Yabro as in the book and the slab marked on the crag could be a different route?

The L arete of Lucky Charm Wall.

Thin seam on left side of the 4th pillar. Unprotected boulder problem to gain the thin crack.

Crack up right hand side of 4th pillar

Easy crack left of SOI

The finger crack right of the arete on the 6th pillar.

The 7th pillar or the furthest right. Up thin crack.

V-groove right of Glory Days

Thin right leaning corner on extreme right of crag facing the descent gully.

Thin Seam up the face of the second pillar with a bolt at 2/3 height.

Short finger crack to a horizontal on the 3rd pillar. Climb this by palming off the offwidth to the right. Then climb the face above using the crack for gear and an occasional layback move

Climbs the offwidth and the big loose block on the right of the thirs pillar and GITMC

2 lines left of the 2nd pitch of MM. Great climbing up thin seam

The line left of MM's 2nd pitch. Begins at an overhang.

The prominent central line of the amphitheatre splitting the face right of MM

On the right wall of the amphitheatre is a widening crack that used to have a she-oak growing in it.

The arete right of MTS. Turns a roof onto steep slab.

The Furthest line left starting on a narrow ledge. The arete right of the top of SOTNC and left ASU. Exposed and technical face and arete climbing

Thin right trending line up orange wall left of a chimney.

Clean sharp crack on right of buttress

The arete left of Caprichos

Finger crack capped by a roof at 4m. After the roof the route is unprotected until the handcrack.

Face on the right end of the cliff with intermittent thin seams. Excelent pro.

50m right of Caprichos Crag. Face with thin seams in the middle, widening to a finger crack.

The face with a roof right of Janos. Takes the very thin left crack through the roof, some long reaches, strenuous and difficult to place pro. Finishes up a lovely crack in an airy position.

The face of the first pillar. Lead on 2 pre-placed pitons

The right crack nearer the arete, Pulls through the roof using a loose looking flake. Use hand crack and intermittent cracks on the arete.

The next decent line right is a corner with a hand crack. From the ledge continue up the wide crack.