Routes as trad in Australia

Wide chimney with large chockstone between the two upstream pillars

Head left up the blocks as for Inky and Sally, then step left at the ledge. Funky rightwards diagonal traverse boulder problem, finishing straight over the top of the block. Repeat 100 times and head to Bungonia Gorge.

Flake taking gear to same bolts as MYM

Take the blocky line 4m right of the Naughty Corner to a ledge on the arete. Up the thin crack to the top of the block.

The short corner at the left end of the outcrop has an unexpectedly tricky finish.

Rappel from anchor located at the base of dreams of Broken Glass (down and right of lady midnight). Rappel to hanging belay. Climb out the shallow corner finger crack. Best done at low tide.

A good route to try if Ingvar's variant is out of reach.

Step off the boulder about 8m up the hill from 'Yesterday', traverse left 3m to a seam. Up via two ringbolts to join 'Yesterday'.

... of depravity. A spelunking expedition through the bowels of the cliff. Climb into the chimney past the beginning of Open Road and A Bridge Too Far and just keep on going. Easy chimney climbing with a dodgy flake system for gear leads to a good belay above massive chockstones. Some of the poorest rock you'll find at the Mount, not a classic. Turns out to be a variant start to Hunting For Swedish Fish (in Cheops Buttress area).

King line left above the pond. Blank face with stonking crack up the middle. Start on the ledge directly beneath (requires spicy scramble), unprotectable start but juggy (overhung) once onto first ledge let the crack climbing begin. 10m of the best crack climbing in the NW. From fingers to layback to paddle hands through to mantle then continue over choss onto top out ledge. Rapped off of sketchy tree. Perhaps look for better Decent.

A proud line in a super exposed spot with picturesque views. A mega adventure on excellent rock well wroth the hour and a half walk in.

P1) 18m still needs to be freed over hanging 4-6 crack take minimum of three to four number 4 two number 5 and one number 6 beware of knife cutting crack edges, one FH at top leads to semi hanging DBB. will go between 20-25 ranges. (open project)

P2) 25m 23 The money pitch a slightly over hanging pitch following 10 FH to a semi hanging DBB. Mega!

P3) 17m 22 traverse right and low for 3 FH (hard to reach third clip unless you clip from hidden jug on the arete) to reach the areate up areate and slab to a comfortable belay hole and DBB.

P4) 20m 17 follow the 10 FH up slab to DBB.

P5)20m 4 bridges the gap and scramble to the top to a DBB.

Walk off.

Left leaning water seam. Shallow flared seam past 3 bolts, becomes deep enough for gear about 1/2 way taking a mix of sizes.

Hand/Fist crack, takes #3's and #4's

Short hand crack. Perfect for beginners learning to jam/place gear.

Starts at the back of the shallow cave on shoddy rock to the right of Pandemic Panic then traverse right out across the roof crack, feet on vertical sand, then straight up the pocketed blunt arête to finish.

Start up right side of flake system. Jug city until funky mantle to DBB. Size 2-4 cams.

100m north of the main buttress is a #3 and #4 size flake crack with an incut start. Tree and gear belay

The freestanding pillar on the northern end of the cliff line. Start in the chimney on the left of the front face to gain a slab. Slab right to a steep crack and pull through this to again gain a slab. Trend left along a break to an arete and summit the pillar

Up Shadows and Light to its second bolt. Step right to the pointy jug, then straight up (dyno) into Elongate.

Interesting boulder start into a crack and then over too quickly

Start 2m R of M.H.P. below a "diving board' at head height which in turn is below a shallow scoop. Clip the first hanger and then pull humourously onto the diving board. Clip the second hanger and pull up into the scoop. From here straight up past good small wires and micro cams. A third hanger protects the top.

The best climb on this little cliff. Start 3.3m R of U.G. below 2 horizontal cracks that are just above head height. Pull up through these past a good medium cam and clip the first hanger. Straight up the wall past another hanger with micro's and wires found along the way. NB: Grade is dependent on your height. If you are taller than 5'7" subtract a grade or 2.

Another nice climb. 1.3m R of I.M below the undercut ledge. Place some good micro's above the mantle before doing it. Straight up over the mantle passing good wires, more micro's and a fixed hanger.

A nice climb. Start 1m R of H.A.V. From the highest point of the flake pull onto the wall and up veering slightly R past a fixed hanger. Finish up the headwall r of HAV's finish. Good micro's and wires.

2.7m R of O.T.N. Straight up the line past 2 fixed hangers with micro cams along the way. Finish R of the large boulder.

The northern most line. A bouldery start up past a fixed hanger. Micro cams and 2 more fixed hangers.

Hands and fists into offwidth.

Up crack, abundant face holds and ledges

The buttress up the gully right of Black Fingernail. Climb the left arete to a narrow ledge above the second FH. Traverse right 2m and finish up the short flake to lower offs.

The corner just right of Melon Peel

The thin crack up the steep wall just left of the first pitch of The Scarlet Pumpernickel finishing up that climb.

What is life if not a gamble?

As for Tjuringa, move left at the first break. Straight up the streak until level with the Tjuringa flake. Left again into the final few metres of Bad Cheques.

"How DOOM hold heat then preach non-violence? Shhh, he about to start the speech, c'mon, silence..."

A unique first pitch with gymnastic steep climbing up a strange, incipient crack feature, on radical rock. One of the best at the grade!

Starts atop a rock pedestal approximately 50m left of the base of the descent slot. Bring a double rack #0.2 to #1 cams, with singles of #2, #3 and #4, and triples of #0.5, as well as a rack of small-medium wires. There are lots of options to pre-place gear to tame the runouts, but most of it is near-impossible to place on lead, so the actual FFA used significantly less gear than the above.

1. 20m (25) Up incipient crack with wild, gymnastic moves, and a fair bit of committment. Save a #0.75 for the upper crux (placed left of the big flake), and a #0.5 for a key slot immediately after it. Belay from fixed wire, #0.2 and #0.3 cams at ledge. Do not place gear behind the detached flake out right (lest you rip it off and kill yourself + your belayer).

2. 35m (21) Continue up the weakness, with surprisingly technical and committing moves. Save a #3 for right near the very top. Belay from trees back from the edge.

Courtesy note: Repeat ascensionists should bring a spirit of their choice to top up the emergency supply of liquid courage located at the base of the route.

Open book corner, left of hot lead. Adventurous.

Inside the boulder starting behind Toby's Corner. Cave and chimney all the way up and pop out the top. No gear needed.

10m right of Mother's Day is a short left facing corner crack. Jam corner to big ledge. Move right a few metres. Pull up the blank slab into the corner (a hard move for short people). Follow the corner system up right to a good ledge with lower offs.

60m R of Expired Macropod is a steep offwidth. 15m R again is a R-leaning thin crack with a bulge at 6m. Follow this to an easy scramble off.

Crack/groove 3m L of Green Dream. At the ledge, step R then up the open black corner.

Up Color Scheme to the pin, then move right to the rail. Straight up to join Goodbye.

Climb up to the base of the steep orange corner via the slab (be wary of the suspect flakes) and gully to the right. Some nice moves up to the roof let then a grovel leftward to finish up CC. RP's useful.

Recommended crack beauty when in the area. Start in the groove as for TTAH. Take the left trending crack that gets harder and smaller with every move. Finish with hard moves up the finger crack to reach the ledge on top. Carefully scramble down the gully on the left

Up the offwidth. Take a #4 and #5

Open Project for the bold and reckless. Needs further inspection of the flake whether it will stay in place. Start with the finger crack below the roof, reach to the hold on the edge of the roof, Continue up the groove and layback the big flake to the ledge. Continue up the finger crack on the face above

If the LOTF is too scary for you this is your alternative to get to the top. Watch out for the loose flakes half way up

The slab above Morning Sun, past a #4 cam, single bolt and RPs and micro-cams in the fused seam. DBB lower-off. A good introductory route to RP and micro-cam placements before tackling the more challenging routes here in this style.

The slab above Morning Sun, past a #4 cam, single bolt and RPs and micro-cams in the fused seam. DBB lower-off. A good introductory route to RP and micro-cam placements before tackling the more challenging routes here in this style.

The short hand crack 2 m right of The Contortionist to DBB lower-off. Worth doing if you're already here.

The short, thin finger-crack in a groove. Very weird, very cool moves. Step right to DBB lower-off.

On the upper tier, downstream of the old car stuck up in the cliff. Rap in from DBB above, using the line as a belay anchor.

A long abandoned Danny Ng project - recently revived after a scrub, and the addition of a couple of extra bolts and an anchor (located at the beginning of the blankness)…PS there’s no glory jug!!

Climb the detached pillar (stick clip recommended), and onto the face via x2 U’s and x2 carrots. DBB. The originally conceived finish can still be attempted (take a blue walnut, or a .4 camalot) to the SOTT anchor, and is an open project. Go for your life…

Offwidth crack

Inspiring project up the trad crack and upper arete. May need a bolt on the top section.

Start in back of cave, up to roof and follow wide crack to turn lip and up groove to tree belay. A couple of #6 and a #5 handy,v. small gear needed near top

The trench left of FF, at roof traverse right to anchors on FF

Lovely #3/4 crack to DBB. Can be topped out for extra cool points

Obvious large offwidth. Starts #3/4, up over rooflet into #5/6's, continue to DBB

the obvious offwidth right of OPAN. Bring big gear (#5 and #6) or run it out in the upper part

the face on the right of Mr Queasy. Mantle onto the ledge then follow the easy crack until a wedged block. continue up the fingercrack (crux) to horizontal band and up the bulge to the top

Sharing a few sections of climbing with The Venom, this line launches up the steeper, blanker faces, while remaining stylistically similar to its elder sibling.

Bring a double rack #0.3 to #3, a single #0.2 and #4, and an extra #0.3. Bring 2 x 60m ropes if rapping off from the top.

This route seeps heavily after rain, and will remain wet even when the rest of the gorge is bone dry.

Start (as for The Venom) at prominent thin crack at right side of black wall, approximately 8m above the Gorge floor (can be accessed by an easy stemming corner).

1. 15m 15 - Up black seam as for The Venom for 5m to major ledge system. Rising traverse left until directly below major orange flake, then onwards and upwards to bolt belay. Bring the full rack for this pitch.

2. 25m 21 - Up thin flake (#0.3 on left) and up prow past bolt to thin rail where you'll find a crucial #0.3/#0.4 placement in a slot out left. Fingery traverse right, and up to sloper and bolt. Continue up vague corner system to steep finger crack (2 x #0.3). Up this to bolt, then turn roof on edges (slightly right of bolt) and up face (unprotected) to bolt belay (shared with the end of The Venom P1).

3. 20m 17 - Shared with The Venom P2. Straight up nose above belay (#4, #0.4, #0.3) to bolt. Traverse straight left past another bolt, then up onto ledge system. Rising traverse left past #0.4 and #0.75 to bolt belay.

4. 30m 22 - Up seam past #0.4, #0.5 and #0.75 to bolt and rooflet. Gain the ledge, ignore carrots heading out left, and instead head right to bolt. Step out over the void, then crux moves straight up face to gain break (#0.3, #0.2), then upwards to gain ledge (#0.3, #0.4). Traverse right to bolt belay.

5. 15m 20 - Tricky moves (and gear - sneaky #0.4 slot out left) above the belay to gain stance under the roof. Blast out the roof crack slightly right of the belay via #2 and #3, and up crack (#0.5) to top out. Belay off #2 and #1 cams.

To escape, find the bolts above The Venom (up and right from where this route tops out -on the other side of the waterfall) and abseil 50m to the belay at the end of P2, and another 50m to the starting ledge.

Short, steep crack up buttress 5m R of Rameses, with tricky exit. Note: A Rap Anchor exists at the top of this route.

Heady wall climbing, but good rock and interesting moves. Joins into the last 10m of Steep Dreams. Start as for P2 of Rameses - on top of small buttress (best approached by climbing Bintanath). 1) 25m 20. Head up and diagonally L for a few metres, then up juggy ironstone line. At a blank section, move R (L is also possible), and up to optional belay in Pod. 2). 25m 20. Up into the line, which is followed to join the final 10m of Steep Dreams. Could be done in one long pitch.

The gaping offwidth/ chimney just left of Tongerlongeter day. Big gear is helpful but not necessary

Up the flat smooth corner just before the arete. No touching the big ledges on the left. Top out over the face to your right, between the vegetation.

Scramble the big ledge staircase, top out through obvious corner.

Best to abseil in to large sloping ledge just downstream of large fig. Starts off ledge through small fig at base of v groove with hand crack at back. Continues as finger crack.

Face climb facing downstream, R of Shapeshifter, faded tag on first bolt.

Start up Shapeshifter and take the thin left-leaning crack to finish

Left of the HR start is a thin seam to 2/3 height then 3 FHs to the DBB over ETL. Lots of RPs and microcams

The inset corner inside the deep trench half way along Rockpool. A canyoning experience. Abseil down trench to water level and climb out with horizontal chimney moves to finish. Tree belay.

After the first carrot on GD continue up the arete on FHs and a finger and hand sized cam. Tree belay

Middle of face left of ETL, through roof to narrow finger crack. Join Gunboat Arete at its last bolt to top out. Finger sized gear and a #1 cam.

Reportedly one of the best one pitch routes in New England at the time. Right of the obvious low dihedral, 20m R of HTS. Start on the R side of the arete, moving up and left into the prominent finger and hand crack system, leading to an exciting finish. The two carrot bolts were added after the first ascent. Tree belay.

The corner right of Gunboat Arete. Possible to step right onto ledge and DBB, 3m below the top.

Arete 1m left of Just around the corner follow seam and arete to slab above to DBB

Right-hand end of wall is an easy corner, Left facing crack/corner to upper low angled slab and DBB.

Right leaning crack at far end of wall, crack with gear pass a high BR to DBB

Wendy asked for a first ascent. Citizens must abide. A fantastic outing toping out the Happy Fun Time wall with great gear, nice climbing and some amazing belay positions.

1. (14) 15m Start 3m right of Warmup Crack at obvious lichen crack. Move over loose block (beware) to pull over lip onto slab with hand crack. Belay from corner at rear wall with multiple options to set gear anchor.

2. (15) 15m Climb triple crack that is much easier than it looks scooting up body chimney on left with gear on right. Aim for large tree above on right slinging it to continue through solid blocks to belay from double limbed tree tree on incredible flat cave ledge!

3. (17) 18m Swing left from belay over bulge with pockets and crack in small cave heading for out of sight headwall. (When moving through small cave please avoid altering the will of the free spirited block!). Quest up cracked headwall through pinched body chimneys aiming for large belay tree. Interesting solution to move through last body chimney off of slopers(crux).

4. (15) 18m Ledgy climbing diagonally left of belay to corner crack leading to top of cliff. This pitch gets its grade from last move (well protected) to pull over top of corner to top out cliff. Belay from trees and cracks.

Back up boulder rappel back to pitch 2 tree anchor. Consider watching the sunset hitting the Castle in the distance from cave ledge before rapping to ground. Mostly in the shade.

Extending Q up the natural line to top out the cliff via a spectacular traverse pitch.

1. (21) 30m Climb Q until overhanging chimney. Instead of bailing right, continue up chimney to awkward move establishing in short finger crack (crux). Continue through to belay from crack in back wall. Extending belay to top of finger crack helpful.

2. (18) 15m Climb up corner crack and body chimney above belay pulling onto slab with hand crack and continuing to belay from corner crack at rear wall.

3. (17) 15m Look right from belay in awe at incredible horizontal crack travelling towards dam. Plug in some gear and swing towards distant footer before embarking on a memorable journey with perfect jamBs and crimps all the while finding your feet. Belay from blocks at end of traverse on ledge.

Scramble up from ledge to large boulder at top of crack above 3rd pitch belay. Bring 7m of cord to back up boulder rappel down to pitch one belay anchor. 2 absails to reach ground.

Descend to the lowest point on the south side but only if the sea state makes it safe to do so. Locate the single FH 10m above the sea. Swing up and 2m L and climb the corner/crack above the R‐facing corner, using Camalots to #4. When this ends tackle the awesome grey face above, past 7 FHs. Trad belay on large nuts and medium cams. Ross Weiter, Peter Thomas, Apr 2014.

Take the same start as BIB and traverse left under the roof. continue delicately up (crux) to gain good jams. Either follow to the top or wander with nice exposed moves to the left to sling the big block or gain the DBB of Chook Fever

climb the arête left of ANZAC day (crux and bold) to reach a crucial 0.5 (purple BD) cam at 5m height. keep your fear controlled until you reach the ledge to step right into the dihedral below the roof as for AD. Continue left after this, pull very lightly on the loose block to not threaten people below and continue on the arête until reaching the DBB of AD. Pre-placing the purple cam when abseiling reduces the risk tremendously.

Push the Bush (14) 23m D. Shaw, S. McKie 4/94 The right trending crack immediately right of Two Moves. Gain the overlap from the right at the base and climb overlap on right using crack. Cross right and then left to gain holds on the wall, then belay on ledge with small trees.

Up short slab to BR below flake, strenuous moves past the 2nd BR gain the bulge and 3rd BR. Up over this to horizontal crack that takes small cams and medium nuts. Up and L from there to exit. FA: Ross Weiter, Jon Gregg, Apr 02

The R trending line offers good technical climbing on edges and huge crystals. 4 bolts and small/medium cams for the top cracks. FA: Ross Weiter, Jon Gregg, Apr 02

This wall is not quite as blank as it looks. Strenuous and insecure moves gain the 2nd BR, then pull over the bulge on good holds and reach R to clip 3rd BR. Traverse R to twin black streaks (skid marks) and then up past two more BRs. Small/medium cams for the top, same finish as for Crystallography. FA: Jon Gregg, Ross Weiter, Apr 02

Up past 1st BR, then directly up face above 2nd BR (not up gully to right). Large nut plus medium to large cams for gear and belay. Descend down mossy gully on the far side of the summit. FA: Jon Gregg, Ross Weiter, Dec 00

Very funky and unusual. 5m right of C&C is a wide chimney. Walk up this - the crux is exiting it at the top, via a delightful bridging move to L. There is good gear at the crux – small to medium cams and medium nuts. FA: Ross Weiter, Jon Gregg, Dec 00

Up crack, then L at overlap for 2m (crux), then up face L of offwidth. FA: Ross Weiter, Danilo Zonta, Richard Wainwright, Dec 01

Up, then take the R squeeze chimney option. Not as bad as it looks from a distance as there are face holds. FA: Ross Weiter, Danilo Zonta, Richard Wainwright, Dec 01

A good warm-up climb - the slabby start is followed by a pleasant crack with large incut holds. Scramble to the top of a boulder 15m right of Ten Gallon Buckets and 6m above ground, belay here. Trend to a stance just left of the bulge, clip hard to see BR to the right, then right over a slabby bulge and slab with 2nd BR to the base of the crack. Up crack on medium to large cams and nuts. Belay at double bolt belay 8m up water runnel, up on its right side. Descend as per Ten Gallon Buckets.

The wide crack halfway up the east side of the main crag. Start up the front of the 4m high triangular rock, then up the awkward wide section above to gain the squeeze chimney left of the rooflet. Get in a couple of good cams here and start squeezing! Keep going past 2 BRs. Gear: 2 BRs, medium cams and nuts. Double bolt belay 10m up the slope and right of the crack. FA: Ross Weiter, Danilo Zonta, Dec 01